Building a house with your own hands

The current trend is that many residents of large cities would not mind living closer to nature, in their own home. Demand for suburban areas constantly grows , the construction on them is expanding.

Of course, the easiest way is to hire a team of builders who will take on the main burden. But for the majority of Russians, it is natural to try everything on their own, so many on the acquired plot practice building their own homes.

For the average and northern strip of Russia, the traditional building material has always been a tree, and despite a variety of other possibilities, wooden houses have not lost their popularity. The truth is that the technologies do not stand still in this matter, and instead of the logs of the round timber,houses made of timber.

A house made of timber may very well be built independently, if with all the severity of is to go to the choice of materials for its construction and to thoroughly master the basics of technology of such construction. Well

to start , probably, it is necessary with closer acquaintance with this material, in order to be able to choose it correctly, as this will determine how much future house will be comfortable and how long it will last without repair.

Which timber to choose for construction?

Correctly selected wood - is half the success in building reliable at home. Therefore, it is very important to know in advance what kinds of timber there are, and how they differ among themselves.

In the construction market, there are three main large categories of - - glued , planed and profiled. To determine the choice, you need to get information about each of them.

This table summarizes the comparative characteristics of a wooden beam, planed and glued :

Comparison characteristics of conventional and laminated veneer lumber
Material evaluation criteria	Standard beam	Glued laminated timber
Draft	6-8%	0,4%
Crushing due to uneven moisture evaporation( geometry violation - screw, bend)	Possible	Excluded
Cracks	Width up to 10 mm	Allowed in length, strength not affected
In depths up to 150 mm
Lengths up to 1500 mm
Loss of aesthetic appearance due to fungal manifestations	Possible	Excluded
Wormwood		possible	possible
excluded Surface	No perfectly flat surface, knots or holes are possible, cracks	Smooth surface that does not require additional processing
Temperature fluctuations	Wood deformation	Absence of leashes
Thermal insulating qualities	Requires additional thermal insulation	Complies with requirementsSNiP II-3-79 "Building heat engineering"

Planed beam

Planed timberIt has a square or rectangular cross-section, and it is made from solid logs by of their trimming.

Compared with two other types, the advantage of a planed timber is its affordable price. If you compare the beam with a log or brick, then its installation is much simpler than these materials, it requires less costs, effort and measurements. In addition, the very structure of a planed beam is much lighter in terms of the total weight than that of a brick or glued timber.

However, this type of material has a number of significant flaws, which you must be aware of.

The planed beam is made of wood with natural moisture. With a decrease in humidity, the tree dries, and may have undesirable effects on the :

• . Cracks. - is the most frequent negative event when the wood dries. They increase the thermal conductivity of the walls, so more trouble will bring insulation. In addition, suffers the appearance of the material, that also requires certain measures - leads to the need for additional work and extra costs.

• Deformation of - can also appear after evaporation of moisture from wood. So, you can get a beautiful and smooth material, and after a while it can bend in the most unexpected way.
• Mold, rot and blue - appear when storing the material in unsuitable conditions for wood, for example, in humid, poorly ventilated areas, with bars laid close to each other.

• The - gap is a common drawback of a simple bar, as it is often made with non-observance of the exact dimensions. It is not surprising that when it is laid, crevices form between the beams, and when the wood is dried, they will not become smaller, and on the contrary - will increase. The slots will need to be sealed, and means , needs to wait until the wood at least a little dries, otherwise the work will be done in vain, and its later will have to be repeated again.
• Shrinkage - is also a consequence of the drying of the wood, as the bars are slightly reduced in size. The result can be a drawdown of the entire structure, and the its value will depend on the humidity of the ambient air and the percentage of the initial moisture of the wood.

It should be remembered that when the builds up, will deform the installed window frames and door openings of , both internal and external finish will be damaged.

Therefore, erected from the beam of a log-roofed structure, it is necessary to allow time to stand and adapt in new conditions. Only after this can continue construction work.

The planed beam does not have an ideal shape and surfaces, and when the above defects appear, it significantly loses to other types of this building material. Therefore, it is purchased for construction, usually in the event that the facade will be warmed from above and cleaned with other materials.

Profiled beam

The profiled beam differs from the usual planed by the presence on its working sides of the comb , otherwise referred to as a groove. Acquiring it, you can avoid some of the problems mentioned above, which are characteristic for the planed beam.

Profile shape can be different - this can be comb with numerous teeth, three large or two located at the edges. The last variant nt pr is intended for the laying of a piece of a felt pad in the of the middle .

Which profile to choose - depends on the moisture content of the material. If the is upgraded, it is better to choose a profile to be laid with a heater, since when the cant file, the felt will not allow the gap to be created, and means , the wall will not be blown through .

The small of the comb should match each other exactly when combining two bars.

The beam with this profile must be dry, otherwise the teeth can deform and give unwanted slots through which cold air will enter the house.

Most often the profile beam is made to order, on the basis of the drafted house. The master immediately provides all the parameters of the location of the walls and doors in the wall, and also cuts the "cups" for the angular jointing of the bar. Each of the parts is numbered, so the installation of walls is simple enough.

It should be noted that the profiled beam is usually made of dried logs , having nt strength process not more than 20 ÷ 22%.If this indicator is higher, then the material is considered low-quality.

If a dried profiled bar is purchased, it will not give much shrinkage. But this material, made of solid logs, is not insured against the appearance of cracks, so after the erection and covering of the house, the certain extract is also required to adapt the walls to the external environment.

Glued beams

Glued cantilever - most reliable variation nt for I'm erecting the house. It has excellent performance characteristics, since it has the optimum humidity for construction. All boards, slabs or bars with a small cross-section, of which is made , are carefully prepared and dried before gluing.

Constructed from a glued beam, the frame does not require exposure - it can be finished immediately after construction.

The glued board has practically no drawbacks - it does not crack and does not give shrinkage, and besides that, each lamella before gluing is treated with flame retardants and antiseptics, which is directed to on protection of wood from fire and rotting. The finished house, in principle, does not even need additional external and internal finishing, and it can be carried out only with the owner's appropriate desire.

Glued timber is also often made to order, and each part is assigned its own number, according to which the assembly is made.

What kind of wood for the house is better?

Another one very important question after choosing the type of timber - which wood is better is suitable for building a house? If you rely on "dry figures", you can refer to the table of physical strength characteristics of wood:

Wood type	Average density kg / m³	Strength, MPa
Along the fibers	Cross the fibers
Stretch	Compression	Static. bend	Radial shearing	Static. bending
Pine	500	110	48	85	7.5	86
Spruce	450	120	44	80	6.8	79.5
Fir	370	70	40	70	6.5	68.5
Larch	660	125	62	105	11	111.5
Oak	700	130	58	106	10	107.5
Beech	670	130	56	105	12	108.5
Birch	630	125	55	110	9.2	109
Aspen	480	120	42	78	6.2	78

But perhaps , figures - figures, and it is better will get acquainted with the material closer:

• The oak - has a dense structural structure and a beautiful textured picture of wood, but when it dries, it tends to crack. Therefore, if there is a desire to build a house from oak, then you definitely need to choose glued option.

It should be noted immediately that this wood is one of the most expensive materials, but it is worth it. Houses made from oak timber - is an reliable , a durable and durable structure that will last for a hundred years if properly installed. Due to the density of wood, it practically does not absorb moisture, and with additional processing, the oak bar can be called fully moisture resistant.

• Larch - is one of the most suitable materials for building a house, since it is practically not susceptible to the appearance of fungal foci due to the presence in of its resin of natural antiseptic constituents.

Wood has a high density, which also contributes to fire resistance. The house built of larch, also will serve not one generation of the family.

Larch has a pleasant color and a beautiful texture. She is not afraid of any moisture, therefore from her were built even the supports of bridges across small rivers. In houses built from larch, thanks to the natural antioxidant and phytoncid contained in its wood, creates the health-improving microclimate.

Disadvantage - quality larch timber is of high cost, so if it is not possible to build a house entirely from this material, then a gasket is made between the foundation and the beam of walls.

• Spruce and pine - wood these x x war rocks is the most affordable option for the price and has good characteristics for the construction of the log house.

Pine has a fairly soft structure, so its is easy to process and customize. has pleasant warm shades, and the core, when dried, acquires a reddish-brown color.

There are usually a lot of knots on the trunk of a pine, but they have an oval shape when cutting. Wood is permeated with numerous resin channels, and therefore it almost does not crack, which is very important for keeping the heat in the house.

A log house made of pine wood, practically not gives shrinkage, since the material is less susceptible to deformation.

Spruce bars are not very different from pine according to their physical characteristics, but they have a slightly different color. The wood is lighter, and in the it is not so clearly pronounced texture pattern, as in the pine.

The structure of spruce is more friable, therefore its thermal conductivity is lower than that of pine. But a very large number of knots makes processing difficult, so fir is not that popular.

In houses built from the same x x war rocks, it is easy to breathe, which favorably affects the health of all family members. Correct built buildings made of pine can last a long time. And if you take into account the low cost of the material, then this wood can be called the most popular for building a house.

• Lipa and aspen - the beam from these rocks is the best material for the construction of a log cabin. As for lime - it is quite expensive material, but it is worthy of its price.

The linden has a low thermal conductivity, has a pleasant light color with a pinkish tinge that does not vary from time to time. This wood requires a strong treatment with natural antiseptic compounds, as it is prone to fungus and mold.

Aspen has similar characteristics with lime. There is a its and its advantage - it more tolerably tolerates the effect of humidity both at low and high temperatures.

Both linden and aspen do not crack strongly during drying, but are prone to considerable deformation. Therefore, if it is decided to raise the house frame from them, it is better to take the glued Variant nt br mustache, or very well-dried planed.

Can I save on material?

If the budget, allocated to for building a house, is not too large, and there is no possibility to purchase too expensive material, then you can get out of the situation by purchasing an unprocessed bar, and then prepare it yourself for packing, saving a decent amount. To make everything right, you need to follow all the recommendations:

• The first thing you need to pay attention to with finding the - is for its evenness. Even if at first glance it looks smooth, then it does not always check it in addition. To do this, it is laid on a flat surface, and then turned on each side. If the bar is deformed or bent, it will be immediately visible.
• Next, you need to study the annual rings, which are clearly visible on the front side of the bar. The distance between them should be approximately the same. If they are very different in thickness, then when drying, the beam can be severely deformed.
• Will lead the beam in the event that its layers have different internal stresses. Define this defo kt dr evesin can be by its uneven color on the end and side faces.
• If the with is cut and not dried, but has good quality in color and smoothness, then it can be brought to an optimal state on its own, but this will require certain time.

This block with is placed in stacks at a distance from each other of 15 ÷ 20 mm. Between the rows are laid small bars-lined size 15 × 15 or 20 × 20 mm at a distance from each other of 1000 mm. This laying is necessary to ensure that the entire bar is well ventilated and excess moisture evaporates from it.

In order for to dry the , the ends of the timber are covered with lime, and the stacks are set so that the does not get direct sunlight on the end parts, otherwise the wood can crack.

The drying time will depend on the air humidity and the place where the bar is stacked. It is desirable that this is a platform under a wide canopy. It is not necessary to have such stacks in the lowlands of the territory, near natural or artificial reservoirs of , where the morning mist lasts the longest and the most abundant dew falls out.

You can start construction only after the wood has dried. Determine the availability can be a hygrometer. When it does not exist, they are avoided by improvised methods. For example, on the of the timber beams is carried out with a chemical pencil. If the trace turns blue after a few minutes, wood still is not dry.

Internal drying is verified by tapping with the short block on the beam from the stack - , the deaf sound indicates that the wood is still raw.

After drying, the wood is treated with with fire retardant and antiseptic. Some modern compositions for processing combine both of these properties.

Building a house

If you do not want to bother with calculations , you can order or buy a ready-made set of materials for erecting a house with the attached drawings, taking as reference data only the area of ​​ allocated to for the house site.

If planning is done on its own, then can for an approximate reference point the following table is useful: shows calculation of materials for construction of log walls with a total area of ​​100 m²( excluding window and door openings ):

List of works	Materials	Consumption
Construction of walls from a beam of 100 mm thickness	Bar	10 m³
Boards 25-32 mm	0,11 m³
Pakla	140 kg
Ruberoid	27,7 m²
Felt	7,0 kg
Construction staples	2,7 kg
Resin	21 kg
Antiseptic paste	15,2 kg
Construction of walls from a bar thickness of 150 mm	Bar	15,2 m³
Boards 25-32 mm	0,15 m³
Pakla	211 kg
Ruberoid	27,7 m²
Felt	7,0 kg
Construction clamps	2,7 k
Resin	27 kg
Antiseptic paste	15,2 kg
Construction of walls from a bar with a thickness of 200 mm	Bar	18,1 m³
Boards 25-32 mm	0,18 m³
Paklya	253 kg
Ruberoid	27,7m²
Felt	7,0 kg
Construction staples	3,0 kg
Resin	30 kg
Antiseptic paste	15,2 kg

Staples and studs that will be attached to some elements of the structure must be of non-corrosive metal or trained.

All the work on erecting a house from a bar is fashionably divided into a list of consecutive stages:

• Markup of territory.
• Foundation device.
• Checking the geometry of the base.
• Laying on the foundation of waterproofing material( roofing material).
• Fastening the binding board from the larch or the lower coronet beam( if all walls are erected from this wood).
• Assembling the walls from the beams and fixing their onto the gels.
• After the assembly of all the walls, the floor and ceiling joists are laid.
• Installation of a rough floor and a temporary flooring of boards on beams of an attic floor for convenience and safety of works at height.
• Installation of a rafter system with sliding fastenings of rafter legs.
• Trimming of the truss system.
• Flooring of roofing.
• Binding of boards to the attic floor from the premises.
• Roof and attic floor insulation.
• Warming and flooring of the white floor.
• Installation of partitions and communication.
• Warming and covering of walls from the inside or outside, if necessary and envisaged by the project.
• Flooring of the terrace floor, if it is provided( for it it is better to use the deck board).
• Installation of doors and windows.

In this sequence, we will consider these steps in more detail.

Video: stages of self-construction of a house from timber

Foundation

The foundation is made in in the following order :

• Markup.
• Removal of the fertile layer.
• Digging a trench under a strip foundation or separate pits for a columnar foundation. Under the construction of a house from a bar, due to its sufficient ease , any is suitable.
• Backfilling of waterproofing layer of sand and drainage - from of gravel.
• Installation of formwork and reinforcement grating .
• Pouring in concrete.

If a pile screw foundation is chosen, then it is not for that will have to dig trenches or pits for it - piles are screwed into the places marked for them. This kind of base under the house can be arranged literally in one day, as it does not require an ideal leveling of the site and waiting for the hardening of the concrete solution. Another advantage is the fact that, by twisting the piles, they can be easily placed on one level.

If a strip or column foundation is chosen, it can be made by a shallow , since the construction of the beam is not as massive as a brick or stone wall.

For a detailed description of how fundamentally is constructed nt for at home , you can follow the link to the portal section with the appropriate instructions.

Construction of

• walls Once the concrete of the tape or column foundation is reinforced with , its geometry must be checked. The process is carried out using the flat board and building level. If reveals irregularities, then will have to fix it with concrete solution, since if basis is uneven , the walls will also go on the contrary .
• Whatever the foundation is chosen, after it is ready, a waterproofing material is placed on its surface - a roofing material in two or even three layers.

• Further, on top of the waterproofing the larch board is laid and fixed with the help of pins or anchorages. It will become an additional leveling and waterproofing layer, as well as a strapping band.

• Binding boards must have a thickness of at least 50 mm. At the corners of the foundation they are connected to a half-tree, then through the holes are drilled through holes, into which wooden nagels are hammered. The first part of the with the is installed on the free part of the nagel, left above the strapping board at 80 ÷ 120 mm. To do this, the is measured on the and a through hole of the desired diameter is also drilled.
• If the house is erected from a deciduous timber, the first lower crown immediately falls on the roofing material or on perpendicularly laid bars, with a size of 50 × 50 mm. This gap between the foundation and the wall is provided for the insulation layer.
• If you select a milled beam, which is laid using a heater, then in the middle of each lower, already laid out piece rolled felt.

To prevent felting when laying the upper timber on it, it must be stapled in some places. In the same way, the felt is laid between all the elements of the walls.

• The rows of bars are fastened together most often by the dowel , for which either a hole is drilled for them, or a slotted groove is selected( depending on the shape of the of the dowel ).
• At the corners the beam can be connected in several ways:

- Using the cut in the it "cups".The same connection is also used when walls are joined with partitions, if they are built-in.

cups - Without bar extensions beyond the walls. In this case, the outer corners of the house are straight.

To ensure that cold air does not penetrate through the gaps in the corners of the house, the "spike-groove" joints that are made under the defined by the angle are cut into them and must be exactly the same to each other.

• All window and door openings must be designed and prepared in advance, that is, they are not cut out during the assembly of walls, and in those places where they are provided, smaller cut logs are stacked.
• The walls of a single-storey house should be raised in height by approximately 2.8 ÷ 3, 0 m .

• The next step is laying the roof girders, they can crash into the bars of the walls, and can be fixed to special metal brackets.

• If a two-storey house is being erected, then the walls of the second floor are raised.

Roofing system and roof, attic ceiling

If the house is one-storey, then temporary beams are installed on the installed joists - this is necessary for safe work at height. Further, the can be used to mount the rafter system.

This table gives the information on the dimensions of the rafter legs according to their length:

Length of rafters in mm	Distance between rafters in mm	Section size of rafters mm
Up to 3000	1200	80 × 100
Up to 3000	1800	90 × 100
Up to 4000	1000	80 × 160
Up to 4000	1400	80 × 180
Up to 4000	1800	90 × 180
Up to 5000	1000	80 × 200
Up to 5000	1400	100 × 200

• In order to shrink walls that are inevitable to varying degrees, the wholethe roof system did not go to a skew, fixing the rafter's legs to the Mauerlat( the upper beam withenes) by means of sliding fasteners. These elements will allow the rafter legs to move slightly, the does not violate the in the this design.

• In the upper part of the rafters can be fastened in different ways - this can be a ridge board, or they are fastened together by a metal plate.
• The next step is to install the remaining elements of the - rafter system, such as racks, puffs, "grandma" and others. The need for specific additional elements is determined by the size and complexity of the roof structure.

rafter system

• The installed rafters are filled with crate , which is covered with a vapor barrier on top.
• Next, the ph_ pl enki is mounted the control panel or the plywood - is laid, this will depend on what roofing material is chosen for the roof.
• The next stage is installation of roofing material.

• When the roof is laid and fixed, its should be insulated. Thermal insulation materials( most often for this purpose is selected mineral wool) are laid from the attic side between the rafters. The insulation is closed with the vapor-proof film , it is attached to the rafters using the stepper .

• Next, on the beams of the attic floor, a rough floor of the attic is sewn, which will simultaneously serve as a ceiling for the underlying rooms. It is fixed from the side of rooms, and from the side of the attic, after the flooring of the film , between the beams are laid( or covered) with a heater. The work can be done, and in a different sequence, when the boards are nailed from the side of the attic, and the insulation and ceiling boards or plywood are assembled from the side of the room.

Step-by-step instructions for the arrangement and insulation of various types roofs and attic floor can be found in a special section of our portal.

Installation of wooden floor

Floors in the house must be completed after to lynx is covered with a roof to prevent excess material wetting, if suddenly the rains unexpectedly.

The floor can be arranged according to different schemes, but the most common is the one in which the rough floor is provided.

• The first step on the protruding part of the strip foundation or on the additional beam that connects the columnar foundation, the joists are laid. They can be made of a bar or board, which is installed on the edge. The size of these parts is selected depending on span between the walls. For reference, you can use the following table:

Section of a beam in mm	Span width in mm
3000	3500	4000	4500	5000	5500	6000
Boards	Step of installation of beams from boards or beams on the basement overlap
50 × 160	800	600	450	-	-
-	-
50 × 200	1250	900	700	550	450	-	-
80 × 180	1200	1200	900	700	550	450	-
Barski
140 × 180	-	-	1550	1200	1000	800	700
150 × 200	-	-	-	-	-
-	-	-	-	2000	1700	1400	1100

• The beams can be fastened with metal corners or studs, but the latest must be pre-embeded into the foundation in advance.

• If the walls of the house are installed on a strip foundation, it is recommended to fill the entire area between its walls with fine-grained expanded clay, which will become an additional floor warmer. In addition, rodents do not tolerate it, and means and will not be able to get into it through it. Expanded clay with a thickness of 100 ÷ 150 mm.
• Next, to lay the rough floor, you need to fix the cranial bars on the overlapping beams. They are nailed or bolted from the bottom of each beam.

On cranial brusks and flooring boards are laid. Here you can use the material and not of the highest quality.

• If between the " black " and the "white" floor, claydite will be covered, then it is recommended to make boards from the vapor barrier or pergamina on the boards, and only after that it is possible to cover the heater.

More often between the floor beams lay mineral wool. If this material is chosen, it is better to purchase basalt, as the most environmentally friendly of all its species.

With this possibility, it is preferable to use eco-wool , which is made of cellulose fibers, therefore it is absolutely safe.

Do not put polystyrene foam or materials made on its basis as insulation. Over time, this material begins to evolve into the air non-harmful to humans evaporation.

• On top of any insulation you need to close the with another with one layer of waterproof film , which will not allow penetration into the house of villagers and dust from the insulation and will not drop accidentally spilled water. Film is fixed on the joists with clamps.
• Next, on the beams, rx pl enki , attached ventilating bar, which will allow air to circulate under the board flooring, which will contribute to long-term preservation of the floor.
• After this, you can go to the flooring flooring floor.

The boards are placed not close to the wall, but with an indentation from of about 5 mm - this gap is necessary for to provide ventilation.

The boards are fastened together with the help of "spike-groove" joints, cut out on the side parts of the boards. Nailing them to the beams of the floor is recommended not through the top, but into the groove of the board. This work should be done very carefully, so as not to split part of the floorboard. You can use thin self-tapping screws instead of nails.

• plank floor The final step in the arrangement of the wooden floor is the anchoring to the walls of the skirting boards.

After the construction of the house, the arrangement of the roof and roof, floors and floors, it is necessary to deal with the installation of windows and doors.(after as will pass certain shrinkage of the walls).And the last stage will be the process of warming the walls of ( if it is necessary) and their external facade finish. How to conduct such warming of wooden walls correctly, you can find out from the corresponding article.

So, it is quite possible to build a house from the bar - , especially if there are assistants, even is a bit familiar with the construction art. And in order not to get into a mess with calculations by , the best option would still be to prepare materials for the home in a specialized organization. wizards will perform this task for according to the specified project with professional accuracy, and you can already assemble the design yourself with assistants, saving a considerable amount on this.

And, traditionally, at the end of the article - a video with the advice of professionals.

Video: features of building a house from timber