If the laying of garden paths is not difficult, then it is necessary to approach the power of the yard more responsibly. The area is large, loads in the form of cars are considerable, and the appearance of the coating should be beautiful and neat. The most reasonable choice in this case is the paving slab. Unlike concrete, the work can be carried out in stages, the tile itself is quite strong and easily repaired if necessary.
Materials and tools
The thickness of the tile can vary from 2 to 6 cm. For a yard that cars can drive, it is worthwhile to stop on a tile 4 cm thick, as a thinner can crack. Tile thickness of 2-3 cm is suitable only for paving sites, which will not have increased loads. Vibrolite tiles are slightly more expensive than stamped, but stronger and more beautiful.
The color, shape and pattern on the tile are selected based on the exterior finish of the house. Gray - the cheapest. Laying their own hands is the easiest tile shaped, more difficult - a small diamond-shaped and rectangular. The required number of tiles is calculated depending on the yard area, the method of counting may differ from different manufacturers.
In addition to the tiles you need:
- sand without clay impurities( 2-3 tons per medium yard),
- cement,
- border for fencing of the site,
- fishing line or strong yarn and pegs for marking,
- grinder with diamond disc for cutting concrete,
- rubberhammer or kiyanka,
- shovel,
- press for compacting soil and sand,
- rule length 150-200 cm,
- tape measure and level,
- trowel or trowel,
- old hard broom or brush,
- protective gloves.
Preparatory stage: marking and ramming of the platform
From the site on which the tiles will be laid, remove the turf and the upper layer of the soil. A layer of sand or small gravel 5-7 cm thick is laid in the formed pit.
Before starting work, it is necessary to determine if the site has a slope, due to which the water will not collect. The best option is a gradient of a few degrees towards the street. If the yard has a slope towards the house, then you have to take care of the drainage.
The lowest point of the platform is taken as the zero mark, and the line to which the plane is inclined is beyond the zero line. At its ends, two pegs are driven in, and a string is stretched between them, which must be strictly horizontal( this is checked by the level).One more thread is attached to one of the already clogged pegs and stretched perpendicular to the first one. The other end is attached to the peg, so that the entire thread has a slope of several degrees to the zero line.
To the third peg again the thread is attached and fixed parallel to the zero line strictly horizontally. The fourth and first pegs are connected to each other, forming a contour of the site, inside which the tiles will be laid. If the site has a form other than a quadrilateral, then it can be visually divided into parts, and construct a contour for each of them.
For the convenience of work, the whole site is divided into strips with a width of 10-20 centimeters already rules. Do this by putting the same distances on threads perpendicular to the zero line and driving pegs. The pegs are connected by a thread, which is located horizontally and on a level with the filaments forming the sides of the rectangle.
After marking on the site, sand is equalized. Shoot where it reaches the thread, and add where it is far away. As a result, between the thread and the surface along the entire length should be a distance of 8-9 cm. The sand is well leveled and primed.
Laying of tiles
Before laying the tiles must be viewed, weed out defective or broken. The yearly tile is laid out in piles around the perimeter of the site, given the color and pattern, so that when stacking, do not walk behind it every time.
Directly before laying, a mixture of sand and cement is prepared in a ratio of 6: 1.Sand is better to take wet. So that it does not dry out, cook for a bit for each strip.
The cement-sand mixture is laid out on the first strip, leveled and well tampered. At the beginning of the strip add more mixtures, rammed with hands and leveled with the rule. Lay the tile, making sure that its sides coincide with the marking threads. Press on it, utaplivaya in the mixture, rattling kiyankoy. Just lay next tiles, and then rows. The distance between the tiles is about 5 mm. In those places where the tiles will experience increased loads - at the curbs, gates, it is worth laying it not on the mixture, but on cement-sand mortar.
The rows of tiles are spread from themselves to advance along already laid. Obstacles in the form of hatches, lids of caissons, pillars cost the whole tiles. All work on fine-tuning and pruning pieces is better done at the end. The tile is cut by a Bulgarian with a diamond disc, and then it breaks off.
The edge of the site on which the tiles were laid, border the border. Under it dig a narrow trench of the appropriate depth, pour a little solution into it and install a curb. Empty places along the border are filled with cut tiles or special "halves" that every manufacturer has.
The finishing touches of
After laying all the tiles and curbs, the seams need to be covered again with a mixture of sand and cement. If there is a possibility, it is necessary to walk along the tile laid with vibropress, this will even more imprint it on the base. The prepared area is watered abundantly with water - it flushes the sand and, penetrating the tile, helps it to tie more firmly with a sand pillow.
