Beating the ceiling with your own hands

Options for finishing the ceiling a huge amount, but the most accessible and simple is whitewashing. With a limited budget for repairs, this solution will be the most optimal, and a clean and smooth surface in any case will give the room a neat, well-groomed appearance. In addition, whitewashing the ceiling with your own hands will not take much time and will not require much effort.

Ceiling preparation

whitewash the ceiling of the old coating is impossible: when wet whitewash previous layers will peel off and stick to the brush, making it difficult to process. In addition, the surface will not be perfectly smooth, which is completely undesirable. When cleaning the ceiling, you need to take everything out of the room or cover it with polyethylene, otherwise you'll have to wash everything off lime and plaster.

Step 1. Cleaning the surface

For cleaning, you will need:

• bucket with water;
• sponge;
• metal spatula of medium size;
• clean rags;
• stepladder.

If you clean the dry ceiling, a lot of dust will rise, and the process itself will last for a long time;much faster and more convenient to remove whitewash after moistening. Do not immediately wet the entire area, as the surface dries very quickly, it is better to divide the ceiling into small areas and moisten as you go along.

After wetting the whitewash, it is necessary to wait a few minutes while the layers are soaked with water to the base, then the coating can be easily removed with a spatula. Finally, chalk or lime residues are wiped clean with a damp cloth until there are no traces left.

Step 2. Sealing joints and slots

For further preparation, you will additionally need:

• serpent;
• putty;
• sandpaper;
• primer;
• brush or roller;
• level.

Between the ceiling slabs there are always joints, which gradually diverge from time to time. So that they do not show through on the ceiling, they are expanded, filled with putty mix, and covered with a serpent on top. On top of the serpentines again apply the putty and carefully rub it with a spatula, a flat surface.

While the joints dry up, the ceiling is carefully inspected and eliminated defects. Small cracks just rubbed with mortar, grooves and chipped shpaklyuyut.

Step 3. Removing the spots

Very often on the ceiling appear spots that appear through the finish. It can be difficult to remove them, but it is necessary to do it at the preparation stage, otherwise they will again be visible through the whitewash in a while. Stains from the flow of water are removed with the help of bleach or whiteness: dip a sponge into the liquid and press it against the spot until it brightens. Of course, you need to work in rubber gloves to protect the skin.

To remove stains from rust, copper sulphate is needed. Prepare a saturated solution of bright blue color, well spread the stain, allow it to dry and again repeat everything. If necessary, re-work until the traces are faded. After that, the problem areas are well ground and dried.

Step 4. Aligning

When all noticeable defects are removed, the level is applied to the ceiling surface in different places to determine the height difference. If there are depressed areas, they shpaklyuyut separately, and when the solution dries, putty cover the entire ceiling. Usually, the finishing putty is applied, which is applied in 2 layers 1-2 mm thick.

For work take two spatulas - narrow and wide, when applying hold the spatula at a slight angle to the ceiling. Formed sags or strips are removed after the mixture dries with sandpaper. It is necessary to coat the whole treated area in order to give the surface maximum smoothness. At the end, the ceiling is wiped dry with a dry cloth and ground.

How to whitewash the ceiling

For whitewash, chalk, slaked lime and water-based paint are used. Each option has its own merits, therefore, in order to determine, you need to know about the basic properties of these materials.

Chalk

The chalky solution is easy to apply, has good covering power, almost no odor. Chalk is a very cheap material, and therefore whitewashing will cost a penny. But at the same time the chalk is very dirty, the preparation of the mortar takes time, and the surface can acquire a yellowish tinge. To prevent this, blue ink is added to the solution.

Lime

Lime is characterized by bactericidal properties, well covers fine cracks, holds for a long time, has a low cost. The disadvantages include a sharp unpleasant odor that appears when the solution is diluted and the acidity of the material. To lime it is necessary to glue in gloves, otherwise it will corrode the skin on the hands.

Water-based paint

Water-based paint is the best option. Its cost is higher than that of chalk or lime, but the covering capacity is much greater. It does not smell, it is easy to apply, it is already sold ready for application, the painted surface does not get dirty. There is a washable paint, which is especially suitable for wet rooms.

The process of whitewashing the ceiling

For whitewashing you will need:

• stepladder;
• small brush;
• roller with a length of 20 cm;
• plastic container.

Step 1. Preparation of

To dilute the chalk, water will be required, preferably warm, PVA glue and blue. In water, first glue the glue, and then add small chalk in small portions. The solution is well stirred, smashed all lumps, poured in blue. Again, everything is mixed until uniform.10 square meters will require 3 kg of sifted chalk, 30 g of glue and 20 g of blue.

Lime for this same area of ​​the ceiling will be less: in the water you need to dilute 1.7 kg of lime and add 40 grams of blue. The water is first taken a little, about 5-6 liters, and then gradually added, depending on the required concentration of the solution. If necessary, the paint is also diluted, adding only pure water. If you want to give the ceiling a color shade, you can use special pigments.

Step 2. Applying the first layer

Begin to whitewash in the corner from the window;first brush carefully processed joints of the ceiling and walls, and then roller applied whitewash on the surface itself. Do not strongly immerse the roller in the paint, to avoid splashing and streaks, the layer should be thin and even. Whitening follows parallel movements perpendicular to the direction of light. After finishing the application of the first layer, the surface is left to dry completely.

Step 3. Re-applying whitewashing

ceiling Through the first layer, the base can be inspected, strips from the brush or roller are also clearly visible. Remove these defects will help the second layer of whitewash, which is applied perpendicular to the first. The solution is necessarily mixed, because lime, chalk and paint could settle to the bottom. After that they begin to whiten from the same place as the first time. Movements should be as uniform as possible, sure, and the quality of the whitewash will be high. In order not to leave unpainted areas, the ceiling is visually divided into strips when the composition is applied and 4-5 cm wide overlaps are made at the joints.

After completion of work, it is necessary to exclude drafts and ceiling lighting by sunlight, otherwise the coating may crumble. Also you can not dust in the room until the whitewash dries;All stains from the paint on the floor and walls should be wiped off immediately with a damp cloth, and then sweep only later so that the dust does not settle on the ceiling. If these simple rules are observed, it will not be necessary to finish the trim after 3-4 years.

Video - Ceiling whitewashing