Do-it-yourself wall putty for wallpaper

Despite the wide range of modern finishing materials available, wall decoration with wallpaper does not lose its popularity. But it is absolutely pointless to carry out such a finish on unprepared surfaces, and in order for it to be really high-quality, it is required to carry out obligatory leveling work. Putty do-it-yourself walls under the wallpaper are carried out in approximately the same sequence as for painting. However, much in the works will depend on the initial quality of the surface being tidied up, as well as on what kind of wallpaper her it is planned to decorate. instagram profile viewer

For example, "liquid wallpaper" does not require perfect smoothness of the walls, as their texture successfully hides small flaws. If the wallpaper is thin, then they are the same as paint, will reveal all the dents and protrusions that were on the wall.

This process should not be taken lightly. Curvature of walls or their uneven, rough surface is a common occurrence even in apartments of houses built from concrete panels. And such walls

at least degree I requiret tthorough preparation before painting or wallpapering.

Why it is necessary to putty the walls

Putty intended for formaking not only large, but even microscopic flaws in the surface, since the graininess her the mass is many times less than that of plaster compositions.

This repair and leveling material is able to create a perfectly smooth surface on which there will be much it is easier to glue wallpaper than on a plastered wall, and small flaws.

If the walls in the apartment are sheathed with plasterboard sheets, and their, in turn, it is planned to finish with wallpaper, then putting putty is also extremely necessary, although it would seem that the surface is already quite even. The fact is that if you stick the wallpaper directly onto the drywall, then when you remove it during the subsequent repairs, the finishing material is likely to be removed along with a layer of cardboard, and then the wall will require more serious repairs than conventional puttying.

The whole process of leveling the walls for wallpaper can be divided into two stages:

• Application of a starter putty, which will fill all cavities and microcracks on the wall, as well as even out minor surface irregularities. This layer can be up to 3 ÷ 5 mm thick.
• The second layer is applied with the finishing compound of the putty - this will make the wall perfectly smooth. The thickness of such a layer can be no more than 1.5 ÷ 2 mm.

Tools and materials for work

What is required from the tools

For successful work on leveling the wall, you need to prepare high-quality tools:

• The rule is required for alignment inflicted starting putty with large curvatures of the wall, as in various her areas of the layer of finishing material will be different.
• A mixer attachment will be needed to mix the putty.
• Electric drill, in which chuck is installed nozzle - mixer.
• A set of spatulas of different sizes and shapes. These are straight, even trowels with a width of 50 to 500 mm, and a standard corner trowel for removing external and internal corners.

The working surface of all tools must be perfectly flat and smooth. If even the slightest flaws appear on the spatula blades, they will certainly affect the quality of the surface to be leveled. Spatulas are not such an expensive tool, so they often make sense.sl dlI am responsible for the purchase of new ones.

• Grater— for rubbing and smoothing the wall surface. Grater can be with a replaceable coating - abrasive mesh, sandpaper, genuine leather and tp.
• Building level — to maintain constant control over the verticality of the leveled wall.
• Roller - used mainly for applying a primer, but sometimes, to speed up the work, they can also apply the first layer of putty, which is then smoothed with a spatula.
• Capacities for mixing the solution and for water. The latter will be needed to soak the tools during the work period.
• Medium brush - for applying the primer in areas of the wall that are difficult to reach for the roller.

Necessary materials

List of required materials — quite small, and consists of the following items:

• Two types of putty - starting and finishing.
• Priming compound. To protect the walls from the possible occurrence of microflora colonies, it is recommended to use primers with antiseptic additives.

• When applying putty on a wall covered with plasterboard, you will need a tape made of serpyanka mesh — for reinforcing joints between sheets.
• If the wall has large drops and irregularities, for example, large holes, sinks or chips are found on it, then in this case it will be necessary to prepare a repair compound. It can be a cement-sand mortar or special polymer-based fillers. They will serve for the initial leveling and patching of flaws, and only after such preparation can be applied putty mixture.

Putty compositions

Formulations for putty works are sold in specialized stores in a ready-to-use state or in the form of dry building mixtures, which will require self-preparation.

Ready-made putties are packaged at the factory in plastic buckets. They are extremely user-friendly - they do not need to prepare separate containers and no mixer is required for final preparation. Using them, you can at any timent prInterrupt work by closing the staff bucket cover, and the mixture does not dry out.The mass prepared by yourself must be used completely, otherwise it will harden quickly enough and become unsuitable for application to walls.

Paste putty is made on latex, polymer, oil-adhesive and other basics. With all her The advantages of many are discouraged by the high price, so most craftsmen are accustomed to using dry building mixtures.

Since the material is applied, least, in two layers, you need to purchase a starting and finishing putty. They differ in the granularity of the powder from which the mass is made. The starter putty consists of mixtures of coarser grinding and creates good adhesion for the finishing coat.

The finishing putty is made from fine gypsum powder, and subject to the mixing rules and technology application is able to create an absolutely smooth surface, suitable for both painting and gluing wallpaper.

It should be noted that sometimes universal compounds are used for wall putty, suitable for applying both the starting and finishing layer, that is, such a solution can be applied in several stages.

Characteristics of some popular putty compositions are given in the table:

Indicator name	Standards for brands of putty
Adhesive solution LS 10/90	Leveling mortar	Fine Coat finishing mortar 50/50	Termonite putty	Block putty
LS 35/65	HP 50/50	LS 65/35
Recommended thickness in mm	3÷5	5÷15	5÷15	5÷15	3÷10	2÷10	3÷10
Recommended water consumption, l / 25 kg	3,5÷4	3,5÷4	3,5÷4	3,5÷4	4÷5	5,5÷6	6÷7
Compressive strength, MPa, not less	16	8	4	2	4	6	20
Flexural strength, MPa, not less	2	2	1	1	1	3	3
Adhesion (adhesion) to the base, MPa, not less	0.5	0.4	0.3	0.3	0.3	1	0.5
Average density of the solution kg / m3	1900	1900	1900	1900	1900	1900	1900
pH indicator	12÷13	12÷13	12÷13	12÷13	12÷13	12÷13	12÷13

When choosing and buying a putty, you must definitely pay attention to the instructions and the expiration date - this information is locatedon on packaging. If the guaranteed shelf life of the material has already ended, then this composition should not be taken, since the mortar may not have sufficient adhesion to the wall surface, and the putty will simply from her flake off.

If a dry mixture is purchased, then you need to make sure that it was stored in proper conditions. If the room where the putty was stored has high humidity, clear signs of dampness, then you should not buy this material, since it is unsuitable for use, even with unexpired expiration date.

If both starting and finishing putties are purchased at the same time, it is recommended to choose materials from one manufacturer. Such mixtures are maximally adapted to each other, and during the work they will show good adhesion - no "surprises" can be expected from this side have to.

Preparation of surfaces for putty

Cannot be applied putty mortar on an unprepared wall surface with an old coating, therefore over she needs to work very well.

If wallpaper has been previously pasted on the wall, water-based or oil paint has been applied, or inflicted layer of plaster, these coatings should be removed.

Old coatings are removed in different ways:

• The wallpaper will come off the wall more easily if it is moistened with water several times with a roller until it is completely wet.

• Oil or enamel paint is removed with a hot air gun and a scraper, or grinder from brush attachment.
• The plaster is removed using different tools, depending on her thickness. If a inflicted thin her layer then her, as well as wallpaper, can be soaked and removed with a spatula. The thick layer is removed using a hammer and chisel, or using a perforator with a special chisel attachment.

When the wall is freed from old coatings, irregularities and cracks formed during the operation of the house will certainly be found on it. Revealed surface defects must be repaired, and the protrusions must be knocked down. Crack repair is required because whatinflicted on top of them, the putty will crack when it dries and will exactly repeat the direction of these flaws, which means what the work will be done in vain.

Remont stene is carried out in the following sequence:

• The cracks are widened and deepened with a chisel and hammer. You need to increase the gap as deep as possible in order to fill it with a repair compound, which will become part of the wall and will not allow the flaw to appear through the putty.

• Widened cracks should be well cleaned of dust and crumbled plaster residues. Excellent for this purpose fit small soft brush or damp sponge.

• Then, a crack all over her the depth must be primed several times. It is important that the entire inner surface of the defect is processed with it, and then it is well dried.

• Further, the cut crack or sink is filled with a repair compound with effort. Sometimes a starter putty can also be used for this, and some builders prefer to use a sealant. If a very deep defect has formed during the expansion of the crack, then in some cases it is recommended to first fill it with polyurethane foam.
• After the repair "patches" have dried, bythe surface must be walked graterwith a large abrasive mesh or sandpaper with a large grain. The polyurethane foam is cut in line with the wall surface.
• If the wall is covered with drywall, then all the joints between the sheets are glued with a serpentine mesh, along which they are passed from above with a starting putty. In addition, all the recesses from the hat are filled with it.to torepeat self-tapping screws, otherwise rust yellow-brown spots will appear through the wallpaper.

• After all repair and preparatory materials have completely dried, the entire surface of the walls should be covered with a primer with an antiseptic effect. The primer will increase the adhesion between materials and significantly increase the life of the decorative finish.

The primer is applied with a roller, but it is very important that the corners of the room are treated with it, since it is in these corners that mold spots appear first.

To make it easier to work, the primer is poured into a special plastic bath, into which it is easier to immerse the roller. The roller will allow you to quickly and efficiently prime large areas of walls, but the corners of the room have to work thickly with a brush.

Primer composition, inflicted on the walls, should dry well. If there is a very fast absorbency it into the surface, but it is recommended to carry out a similar treatment two or even three times - each next layer is applied after the previous one has completely dried.

Plastered walls under the wallpaper with your own hands - in stages

Making filler from dry construction mixes

The package with the dry mixture always contains instructions for making the solution, therefore, in order for it to turn out to be of the correct consistency and uniform in composition, you need clearly follow all recommendations. In appearance, the mass should look like a fairly thick sour cream.

The kneading of the putty is as follows:

• In plastic bucket the required amount of water is poured at room temperature.

A 25 kg bag of putty will require about 9 ÷ 10 liters of water, but you should not make a solution from the whole mass at once, especially if a gypsum-based material was chosen, since it hardens quickly enough and you simply do not have time to use all the prepared mixture. A putty is being prepared from ⅓ or ½ of the entire mass of the package, but in this case, you need to work quite quickly. The time of use of the mixed material is also indicated on the packaging.

• Further, a dry mixture is poured into the prepared water in portions and kneaded using a mixer nozzle. It is necessary to achieve an absolutely uniform consistency, with a complete absence of lumps or unbound water. Particular attention is paid to the areas at the junction of the bottom and walls capacities - there "likes" to remain unmixed dry mixture, which can bring a lot of inconvenience already in the process fulfillment putty works.

• It is very important to clean and rinse well after using the first batch of self-mixed solution. capacity and tools before preparing the second portion. Otherwise, the next composition will be filled with small grains already frozen solution, and they will be interfere very much with the work, leaving furrows on the surface to be leveled.

Covering the wall with starter putty

• The starting leveling compound is applied to the prepared wall surface with a wide spatula. Auxiliary for this procedure is a medium-width spatula, which from capacities the putty is taken and applied to the wide one.

• Furtherstarting from corner of the room, with smooth movements, the putty is distributed bywall surface with a thickness of 1.5 ÷ 3 mm. Thickness of 3 mm is permissible in recesses and places that are required withdraw in one plane.

The wide spatula used to apply the mixture to the wall is recommended to be held at an angle of 45 °. This position of the trowel will help to avoid marks from its corners, which are often left on the surface.

• Putty on the wall is applied in stripes overlap, that is, they must overlap each other on a friend on 60 ÷ 80 mm.
• After finishing applying the solution to a certain part of the wall, you need to check the evenness of the rule inflicted layer. This is done as follows: the rule is carried out bycovered putty surface, and it will collect excess mixture, while showing areas that require additional application of the composition.

In addition, many experienced craftsmen to identify the irregularities left work when illuminating a surface with a light bulb or an angled spotlight. The light will help create shadow from the imperfections - they will be easier to spot and fix. Alignment is carried out on stillnot drysurfaces.

• The most difficult areas to level are the corners of the room, so an angled spatula was created to shape them perfectly, making the job much easier.

• When applying a starter layer, it is necessary to strive to ensure that, as far as possibly, flatten the surface. But unfortunately, this is extremely difficult to achieve, and in the first layer minor surface irregularities are allowed, which will be eliminated by the top finishing layer.
• After completing the application of the starting putty and without waiting for the complete her drying, it is necessary to wipe the surface. This processss prmanual grater, and if there is a possibility - electric sander. This tool will help smooth the surface and even remove shallow streaks left by the trowel.

Grouting is carried out in a circular motion counterclockwise, trying not to miss a single section of the surface.

• Ready, worn out the wall needs to be checked with illumination, and if significant depressions of 2 ÷ 3 mm are found, the second layer is usually superimposed on the first layer, also from the starting putty. It should be borne in mind that a re-adjustment layer can be inflicted not on the entire wall, but only on individual her areas with defects found on them.

The second layer is also smoothed out with trowels.

Finishing layer of putty

• If the goal is to bring the surface of the wall to the level of smoothness of the eggshell, which is especially necessary for gluing thin wallpaper, without backlighting from several sources when applying the finishing layer in any way get along. If it is sufficient to limit control with the help of a rule during the starting finish, then the finishing layer requires a more careful approach.

Light sources are installed in different parts of the room, so that their rays intersect on the wall and show all randomly generated errors.

• The solution of the finishing layer is prepared and applied according to the same principle as the starting one. However, its thickness should not be more than one - two millimeters. Therefore, the mixture applied to a wide spatula is gently "stretched" bythe surface of the wall with slight pressure adjusted clear movements from bottom to top, from the corner.
• Unlike the starting one, the finishing putty must be applied in two layers, and the second one can be inflicted only after the first has completely dried.

Each of the finishing layers it must be rubbed, but for smoothing the first one uses fine-grain sandpaper, and for the final one - a suede or leather nozzle.

• The corners of the room are also finished with an angular or even rubber spatula, which will gently smooth out all burrs from the putty and will take awayher surplus.
• After completing the application of the finishing layer, and after trowelling, you need to wait until the surfaces are completely dry, and then cover them one - two layers of primer.

• The decorative finish is done after the primer is completely dry.

Payment the required amount of filler for leveling walls

The amount of putty and primer will directly depend on the area of ​​the walls of the room being tidied up. This takes into account the material from which the walls of the room and their condition are derived, since some surfaces require minimal leveling, while others require multi-layer application solution.

As an example, you can take a room with the following size: room dimensions 5 × 6 mm, ceiling height 2,8 m, one window opening — 2×1,5 m, one door opening 2×1m.

Important condition - walls plastered, and do not need additional alignment. The putty will be carried out under the wallpaper.

• Next, the area of ​​the walls of the room is calculated:

2 × (5 × 2,8 +6 × 2,8) – 2 × 1,5 – 2 × 1 = 56,6 m²

A universal primer will be used to treat the walls, the consumption of which is 0.15 ÷ 0.2 l for 1 m². To act for sure, it's better take in payment the flow rate is higher and then it turns out

56.6 × 0.2 = 11.3 liters.

Do not forget that the primer will be applied twice, so the amount obtained is multiplied by two, that is, it is better to prepare 22.6 liters.

• The amount of starting filler will depend on the thickness of the applied layer. On the packaging, the consumption of a gypsum-based mixture per 1 m² is indicated as a standard with a layer thickness of 1 mm - for example, 0.9 kg. Any thickness can be calculated from here. For example, the assumed layer thickness is 3 mm, then it turns out;

56,6 × 3 × 0,9 = 152,8 Kg

The dry mixture is usually packaged in factory packages of 25 kg, so it will be required to work with a margin 7 bags of putty.

• The finishing putty is applied in a thinner layer, but it is denser, and consumption her slightly higher - 1m² may require 1 kg of mixture with a layer thickness of 1 mm. It is necessary to take into account the fact that her, possibly, have to apply in two layers, so you get the following result

56,6 × 1 × 1 × 2 = 113,2 Kg

i.e 5 bags by 25 kg. This quantity is also conservatively defined.

Calculator for calculation required quantity putties

For simplicity calculation use the offered calculator. It will allow you to calculate the amount of material required to level the walls of the room specified by the user. Payment carried out separately, sequentially, first for the starting, and then for the finishing putty.

Some helpful tips

Summing up the results of the publication, it is necessary to focus on some particularly important nuances of the work:

• The starting putty should have a thickness of no more than 3 ÷ 5 mm (with taking into account both layers), since if the thickness is greater, then the material, when dried, can crack and to begin peel off from the base.
• Subsequent layers of putty are applied only when completely dry before inflicted. Drying time will depend on the thickness. inflicted material and the temperature and humidity in the room.
• In no case should you be in a room with putty install heating devices with walls in order to accelerate the drying of the putty, or, conversely, to arrange drafts. Neither one nor the other is beneficial to the finish. will go. Elevated temperature will lead to cracking of the material, and the draft - to its detachment from the main wall.
• Doing work, you need to constantly keep under control the evenness inflicted layer, checking it by the rule and the building level.

Do not assume that it is very easy to apply putty on walls for painting or wallpaper, and everything is necessary. it will turn out the first time. If there is no experience in this technology of work, then it is recommended to buy a small amount of material and try your hand at a section of the wall that will be hidden from view. If the process will go easy, then you can purchase a putty and take on large-scale work. If the result is not pleasing, then it would be much wiser to entrust the filling of the walls under the wallpaper to professional craftsmen.

And in conclusion - a demonstration of the work of the master for filling the walls under the wallpaper.

Video: master class on filling walls under wallpaper