How to make a partition in the room

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How to make a partition in the room - this issue most often arises from the owners of one-bedroom apartments, or if the owners have very spacious rooms with a large area.

How to make a partition in the room

How to make a partition in a room

It is not difficult to divide a room into zones. The main in this process is to make the correct calculation of .So, for example, in an apartment of a high-rise building it is inadmissible to install, without agreement, the capital partitions from of heavy building material, such as brick, as the interfloor overlappings are designed for certain weight. If the permissible load is exceeded, structural damages may appear in the form of cracks, which is fraught with further destruction. Therefore, if the owner decided to use a material with a significant mass for the partition construction, it is first necessary to obtain a special permit for this, which is based on the calculations of the for each concrete building project.

As for private single-storey houses, there will be no problems, and the partition can be installed from any material. The only thing that needs to be observed is the erection of a correct design, which is similar to the concrete conditions. For example,

if has a wooden floor in the house, then it is unlikely to withstand the brickwork of the separation wall, has installed its surface on the .In this case, will have to work hard and arrange for its own foundation nt in gr unte underground.

Forms dividers

Article Contents

  • 1 Forms dividers
  • 2 partitions Material
    • 2.1 Plasterboard
    • 2.2 Brick
    • 2.3 foam concrete blocks
    • 2.4 Gypsum blocks
    • 2.5 Glass blocks
    • 2.6 Sliding partitions
  • 3 Mounting partitions
    • 3.1 Marking arearooms
    • 3.2 Partition of plasterboard
    • 3.3 Installation of partitions from blocks, slabs or bricks
      • 3.3.1 Video: tipsinstallation of partitions foam blocks
    • 3.4 Mounting walls of glass blocks
    • 3.5 sliding partition septum

called wall dividing the room. They can be of several types:

  • A solid partition completely covering the space of the room and making two rooms from one room. This type is in demand most often, since the gives the the ability to separate a sleeping, nursery or, for example, bathroom.
The continuous partition makes from one room - two

Solid partition makes of one room - two

  • Decorative fixed partition, which only divides the room into two zones, but not creates between them soundproof barrier. This type of interior element is used for separating the hallway from the room, kitchen from the dining room or for maintaining the of a certain style of decoration of the room.
Decorative partition dividing the room into two zones

Decorative partition dividing the room into two zones

  • The mobile partition is a screen that can be moved to any area of ​​the room to separate the of its visually, but the is unable to to make the its sound - and opaque. The screen is most often used to close the dressing area, the beds - from the morning direct sunlight( that is, to create a shadow), and also as a decorative element of the interior.
Partitions-screens can be transferred as needed from place to place

Screen partitions can be moved as needed from place to place

  • Stationary sliding partition, in the form of a glass or wooden door that runs along the rail. If in this version for its manufacturing uses qualitative materials and is correctly made the assembly of the structure, then they are quite capable of even partially soundproofing the fenced area of ​​the room. This type of partition is used for any needs and in various interiors, as it can have a variety of designs.
Quite difficult to manufacture, but very convenient to use sliding partitions

It is quite difficult to make, but very convenient to use sliding partitions

Material of partitioning

Different materials can be used for the construction of a fixed partition, and it is necessary to know about their main characteristics, "pros" and "minuses" in advance.

Table: Comparative characteristics of partitions from various materials

Material Partition thickness in mm Form and size of material in mm Weight of construction, kg / m² Sound insulation index, dB
Ceramic brick 120 mm( half-brick) 120х250х65 267 40-45
Sand-lime brick 120 mm( half-brick) 120х250х65 330 45
Foam concrete blocks 100 200х250х60 74 40
Gypsum boards 100 500хЗ00х100 92 40-45
Plasterboard in one layer on the wooden frame 85 1200 х2500 30-40 35
Plasterboard in one layer on the frame of the metal profile 100 1200 x2500 21,5 40
Glass blocks 100 150 x150 x100 65-75 45
Sliding glass, wood, aluminum Depends on the design Depends on the size of the partition 6-20 Depending on the material

Drywall

Drywall is produced in sheets that are mounted on the frame of a galvanized metal profile when the partitioning device is installed. To create maximum noise insulation, between blocks of plasterboard in the frame, often blocks of one of the heat-insulating materials - , it can be styrofoam or some of the most eco-friendly types of mineral wool.

Extremely popular in our time building material - gypsum board

Extremely popular building material in our time - drywall

Drywall is produced four types, therefore , buying it, the marking and coloring need to pay special attention. For example, if the baffle is to be installed in a room with high humidity, then it is necessary to choose a moisture-resistant material which, , as a rule, has outer coating painted in green color. Other types of material - are less moisture resistant, and they are perfect for living rooms.

  • The positive qualities of this material can be rightly called:

- the ability to create an indoor microclimate, as it "neutralizes" excess moisture, and does not allow the air to dry out;

- such properties as a good sound - and thermal insulation;

- types GKL and GKLO have increased fire resistance, so they can cover the partition, which will be located behind the fireplace or stove;

- relative lightness material allows you to install a partition in the room with any floor and on any floor ;

- gypsum board is easy to process, it can be cut with a construction knife or a hand hacksaw.

  • There are plasterboard and its "minuses":

- usual, non-resistant drywall can not be installed in wet rooms, as it absorbs dampness well and in time can start to break down;

- GCR is prone to spoilage with accented mechanical influences - it easily breaks out from impact or when the falls on the wall of a heavy of furniture;

- sheets of plasterboard are not able to withstand brackets with suspended on them with paintings or shelves. If the object is not too heavy and weighs no more than 10 - 12 kg, then the brackets for it can be screwed in places where metal or wooden racks and crossbeams are installed.

Brick

Partition of this material is usually laid out in polkirpicha on a concrete solution. It is for dividing one room into two or into separate zones using a hollow brick, since it has a lower weight. Like any building material, a brick, when used for a partition, has its pros and cons, and it is especially important to know if the building is made in a multi-storey apartment.

The partition of a brick is not always possible, and to fold it - is not easy enough

Brick partition is not always possible, and to fold it is not easy enough

  • The following qualities can be attributed to its merits:

- a sufficiently high index of the sound of the insulation, which is 42 ÷ 47 decibels, if the wall thickness together with applied on it with plaster on both sides will be on the order of 140 ÷ 145 mm;

- the brick has a high moisture resistance, but in case this material is used to build the partition in rooms with high humidity, for example, in the bathroom, a full-bodied version should be used so that condensation does not accumulate in the cavities;

- the brick wall is durable if it is covered with a protective layer of plaster or other finishing material;

- a brick - excellent fire resistance.

  • The "minuses" of the brick partition can be considered as:

- the large weight of the material, that to the square cut of the clay adki in the half-brick is from 265 to 280 kg;

- the duration of the construction of the wall;

- high enough complexity of a laying and necessity of even the minimum experience of similar work;

- obligatory plastering before decorative finishing.

Foam concrete blocks

Foam concrete blocks are produced by foaming concrete, therefore the material has a porous structure, which directly influences the formation of its performance characteristics. Mason blocks are produced on gypsum glue or on mortar at concrete basis.

Very often for the construction of partitions foam blocks are used

Very often for the construction of partitions foam concrete blocks

  • are used. The "pluses" of foam concrete blocks can be named:

- high noise insulation coefficient, which is 37 ÷ 40 decibel, with standard block thickness of 60 mm, and 44 ÷ 46 decibel for 125 mm;

- porous structure provides good insulation of the room, thanks to the air in the pores. So, the coefficient t t of the conductivity of the foam blocks is only 0,14 Bt / m × ° C;

- quick and easy installation, if you follow certain rules for the implementation of masonry;

- good fire resistance;

  • The shortcomings of the material include:

is a sufficiently large ve with standard block, which is 18 kg, which requires of certain efforts when lifting it to the height;

- low air permeability of the porous structure;

- hygroscopicity of the material.

Gypsum blocks

Gypsum boards as a rule have ridges and grooves, which facilitates their installation. Masonry is carried out on glue, also made on gypsum basis. The plates are produced in two sizes 600 × 500 × 100 and 500 × 3 × 100 × 100 mm, which makes it possible to install the partition 5 to 7 times faster than when laying bricks.

Large groove-groove plaster plates allow to erect a partition very quickly

Large groove-grooved gypsum boards allow to erect a partition very quickly

Advantages of gypsum boards( ASG):

- quick installation;

- PGP bulkhead will weigh 3.5 ÷ 4 times less than a similar one made of bricks;

- incombustibility of the material - full compliance with the requirements but ppm fire safety;

- sound insulation coefficient is 40 ÷ 41 decibels for single laying, and 55 ÷ 60 - for double;

- when applied on top of the finishing material, the slabs are sufficiently water resistant and durable, are not prone to fungal or mold colonies;

- PG P they are easy to saw -, they can easily be punished with fences for wiring or water pipes;

- neat masonry does not even require plastering before applying decorative finishing.

  • The drawbacks of the gypsum board partitions are their following qualities:

- a sufficiently large size makes it difficult for them to to lift the to a height;

- they can not withstand hinged structures weighing 30 kilograms or more, so the brackets should be installed using dowels or anchorages.

Glass blocks

Glass blocks are products most often square, and sometimes rectangular in form of thick glass with a thickness of 6 ÷ 7 mm, having inside a hermetically sealed cavity obtained as a result of joining two half-blocks. Glass blocks - are original double-glazed windows, and just like them, the air inside is conducive to the heat of - and sound insulation.

Very interesting interior solution - a partition of glass blocks

Very interesting interior solution - a partition of glass blocks

Blocks can have a smooth and relief surface, different colors, and also be monophonic or have a decorative pattern.

Glass blocks have different thicknesses, and it is 75 to 100 mm, and the weight of each of them is 2.5 ÷ 4.5 kg.

The standard size of a modern material is 150 × 150 × 100;190 × 190 × 80;240 × 240 × 80 mm.

In addition to standard sizes, corner or triangular blocks are produced for the design of side parts, columns and corners of partitions of different shapes.

  • The glass blocks have the following positive characteristics that are important for a solid partition:

- good heat - and soundproof separated room;

- high fire resistance of the material;

- excellent light transmittance , which is very important if there are no windows in the separated room;

- after installation of glass blocks, the partition does not require additional finishing;

- due to the thickness of the glass and the properly assembled structure, the partition will be enough reliable , it's not for nothing that this material is picked up not only by partitions inside the rooms, but also external, mainly facade walls;

- durability and ease of care - they should be wiped periodically with dust from a damp cloth;

- partitions made of glass blocks can become a real decoration of the interior and make it original;

is a moisture resistant material, so it can be used indoors with any moisture.

  • The lack of glass blocks is obvious - they do not like impact mechanical impact. In addition, it is very difficult to hang anything on such a partition.

Sliding partitions

Sliding partitions are made of a wide variety of materials - This can be aluminum, plastic, wood, laminated chipboard or MDF panel .They can be glazed or be solid, that is, completely made of a particular material. Most often they are not manufactured on their own, as ready-made models can be purchased or ordered at the required sizes in the profile companies that guarantee reliability design and both and a decent appearance.

It is best to purchase a complete set for the installation of a sliding partition

It is best to purchase a ready-made assembly for the installation of the

sliding partition. The sliding partitions differ in their design for rail and suspension.

The first of them go on the rail, as door-coupe, and the second - on installed on the upper part of the structure on the rail.

Перегородка-"гармошка"

Another with one partitioning structure is the so-called "accordion" , which folds, revealing the entire space between the two rooms. When adding such a partition, it turns near one of the walls and almost does not take up space. This kind of well is suitable for apartments with a small area, when there is a need then merge, then divide the two rooms.

  • The "pluses" of sliding partitions include the following:

- the possibility of creating a separate space, for example, for daytime rest or night sleep, and combining two zones for reception of guests;

- the sliding partition is capable of becoming a "highlight" of the interior, if the is correctly selected for its design;

- with acquiring the complete set of the finished partitioning system, it will only be necessary to conduct the of its installation using the attached scheme - instructions .

"Minus" this system can be called insufficient sound insulation of the premises, since the partition is stationary, but is not a capital .And the second - the design mechanism needs periodic prevention - cleaning, lubrication and , .

Installation of partitions

After getting acquainted with what are the materials for the construction of interior partitions, and with the main types of structures, you can go on to consider the technology of their erection. Like any building, the installation of an interior partition begins with the marking.

Layout of the area of ​​the room

Layout of the platform justifiably can be called one of the main stages in the installation of the partition, since the correctness of this operation will depend on the evenness of the wall being built.

It is most convenient to carry out marking with a laser level

The most convenient way to perform marking with laser level

For this process, you can use a special device - laser level, capable of immediately marking exact lines of marking on the floor, ceiling and wall, over which the partition will be built. However, it should be noted that this device is quite expensive, and due to one partition it is hardly advisable to buy it. Therefore, will have dispense with more affordable tools from to map out the baselines needed.

So, the following building accessories are required: roulette, long ruler( for example, aluminum rule), folding meter, square, plumb bob, marking chopped cord( dyed ), marker or color pencil with thick lead.

Having prepared the tools, you can proceed to the markup.

  • The first thing to determine is the area of ​​the zone being separated. To do this, from the corner of the room at the junction of the wall and floor, the desired distance of length or width is measured. The marked point will be a guide for the rest of the lines on the walls, the floor and the ceiling.
  • If the partition is to be installed across the entire width of the room, then on the opposite wall on the its joint with the floor is also marked by the same distance. Next these points will need to be connected, but needs to measure out angles before , because all of them must be straight. This is easy to do by measuring and comparing the diagonals of the resulting rectangle - they should be equal.
  • The next stage of is the connection of points scheduled on opposite sides of the room. To do this, take the painted cord , pull the its between the points and hit the line on the floor.
Chasing the line on the floor

Sealing the line on the floor

  • Next, you define vertical lines on the walls. To do this, it is best to use a plumb line-to map the current at the joint of the ceiling and the wall so that a strictly vertical line coincides with the corresponding point on the floor. In this case, the load should be near the floor surface, but do not touch it. On a vertical stringed , a straight line is defined and marked on the wall with strokes, which can then be rechecked by the building level.
Vertical line marking by plumb line

Drawing a vertical line manually on the plumb line

  • You can connect the points with a line and using a colored cord, just like on the floor. He is held at the top found point, leads to the bottom, then stretches and discourages the line;
Chasing the line on the wall with a fine cord with a plumb line

Chain the line on the wall with a fine cord with a plumb line

  • The next step is to shoot the line on the ceiling. To do this, the colored cord is stretched between opposite points at the joints under the ceiling, and then a line is beaten off on the ceiling surface. Its can also be checked in several places by a plumb line - the weights should be precisely located above the line on the floor.
  • The last thing you need to do is determine the location of the door , it is measured and marked on the marking lines. The floor elements are not mounted on this floor area, and no masonry is made.
  • If blocks or bricks are used for the partition, it is useful to fix a temporary auxiliary bar with a section of 30 × 30 or 30 × 50 mm on one side of the marked line. It will help to bring the ideal wall straight - the blocks will need to be installed close to it. After the wall is ready, the bar is simply removed.

When the markup is completed, you can proceed to erect the partition.

Partition of plasterboard

The partition from gypsum cardboard can have a skeleton from a metal profile or a wooden bar. The cross-section of the beam will depend on the desired thickness of the partition.

Exemplary scheme of the partition from gypsum board on the frame of their galvanized profile

Exemplary scheme of the plasterboard partition on the frame of their galvanized profile

When assembling the frame, the guides are fixed along the marking lines, their vertical and horizontal are constantly monitored with the help of a construction level and a plumb line.

Illustration Brief description of operation
t1 First fix the guide on the ceiling. This is done by the most suitable type of fasteners, depending on the type of ceiling covering - with dowels, butterflies, anchors, etc., in steps of 150-170 mm.
t2 To fit the profile tightly to the surface, it can be glued to a double-sided adhesive tape - sealant.
t3 Next, the lengths of the guides are fixed to the floor. They are also recommended to stick a double-sided adhesive tape with a foam-polyethylene liner.
t4 The next stage, the vertical guides are fixed to the wall, connecting the upper and lower profile with each other. Vertical elements can be attached directly to the wall or to special hangers, which will help to set the profile smoothly if the wall is not flat enough.
t5 Next, is the installation of the doorway. Racks are also made of a metal profile, additionally inserting into its cavity a wooden beam. The profile is inserted and fixed in the lower and upper guide with the help of special screws.
t6 The vertical reinforced profiles defining the width of the door opening are then installed with a transverse profile that will determine its height. The horizontal bar for stiffness is recommended to be attached to the upper guide by one or two pieces of metal profiles.
t7 After that all other vertical elements of the frame are exposed and screwed. They are installed in steps of 600 mm.
t8 If the sheets of the skin material are below the ceiling height, then in the places where they will fit into the inserts, cross sections of the profile are fixed between the vertical racks. To do this, its ends are cut and bent to the sides at a right angle.
t9 The next stage is the plating of one side of the frame with plasterboard. Cloths are densely joined to each other in the middle of vertical racks and screwed with black screws, whose hats are recessed into the skin for 1-2 mm.
t10 After completing the installation of drywall on one side of the frame, a soundproof material is installed between the vertical profiles. It should be tightly located between the vertical racks. After that, the second frame side of the
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA is cladded. Next, a door frame is installed in the partition, which is fixed to the vertical frames of the frame in the aperture left for it. Fixing screws are screwed through the wood of the box into the posts, while their hats must be recessed 1-2 mm.
T12 All the seams of fixed drywall and self-tapping screws must be plastered. To do this, putty on gypsum base is used. The work is done with a spatula.
t13 Before applying the putty, a fiberglass mesh-serpian is glued to the joints of the canvas. It is either sold with already applied glue, or it is recycled into a thin layer of putty putty.
t14 After the putty on the joints has dried, you can proceed to the pre-cleaning, the priming of the partition and put it on both sides completely, creating a perfectly smooth surface for the decorative coating.

In a similar way, with some variations, installation of partitions takes place and using a wooden beam for the frame. The is suitable for technology and for padding with plywood or lining.

Installation of partitions from blocks, slabs or bricks

Partitions made of gypsum boards, foam concrete blocks and bricks are built according to one principle, but for masonry a different solution is used:

- for masonry bricks - masonry a concrete mix made of sand and cement in proportions of 4: 1 or 5: 1;

- gypsum boards require gypsum based adhesive;

- for foam concrete blocks, adhesive and gypsum, and cement base are suitable.

All these building materials are laid on the principle of brickwork, so you can consider one option for erecting a partition, for example, from foam concrete blocks.

Before starting work, it is very important to thoroughly clean the floor surface of the partitions

Illustration Brief description of the operation
2т1 Before laying the first row of blocks, on a clean floor, under the masonry, it is recommended to lay strips of roofing material or a dense polyethylene film. This material is laid along the auxiliary bar attached to the floor.
Next on the roofing material, the wall and the block on both sides, which will be adjacent to the floor and the wall, a previously prepared glue solution is applied.
2t2 Then the first block of the lowest row is stacked. It is verified with the help of a level and pounded with a rubber hammer to the floor and wall.
Thus, the entire first row is masonry taking into account the doorway.
The opening can be aligned immediately, or after finishing the work, align with a grinder or a special saw.
2t3 The first row, since it is a carrier, needs to be fixed to the main wall by means of a suspension, which is used for mounting metal profiles. The suspension is bent at right angles, and then one side of the corner is fixed on the block, and the other on the wall. Fastening can be carried out with the help of dowels or nails, depending on the material of the production of the capital wall.
Similarly, the partition is connected to the wall every two to three rows.
2т4 Next, a layer of masonry mortar is applied to the wall and the packaged block.
It is recommended to distribute it over the surfaces with a notched trowel to create grooves on the surface that will promote better adhesion of the surfaces and will not allow cavities in the seams.
2t5 The second row of the partition starts to spread out from the half of the block, which is put on the solution and pummeled with a rubber mallet, not forgetting to control the flatness in the vertical and horizontal using the level.
2т6 The third row is again started from the solid block and fixed to the glue by the same principle as the first two rows.
Likewise, the masonry is carried to the very top.
Do not adjust the upper row of blocks close to the ceiling - there you can leave a gap of about 30 ÷ 50 mm.
2т7 After the completion of the masonry, the gap between the partition and the ceiling is filled with mounting foam.
Next, the doorway is checked for evenness using a plumb line and a building level. Identify and outline smooth lines, over which spits are made.
2t8 To make the doorway well reinforced, its upper part is reinforced. For this purpose, cuts of about 30-50 mm in width and 120-150 mm in depth are made on the sides of the walls. This process can be carried out with an ordinary hacksaw, and then knock out the sawn parts with a hammer.
2t9 In these gaps two reinforcing bars of the correct size are laid, distributed on the width of the opening and fixed with spacers.
After completion of this process, the partition should be left alone for two to three days, to completely solidify the solution.
Bonding Primer The next step, all the surfaces of the septum should be well primed with a composition of deep penetration( preferably with additional antiseptic properties) and left until completely dry.
2t10 When the plaster is applied to the wall, the gaps in which the reinforcing bars are laid are filled with mortar, after it has solidified, the reinforcement is firmly fixed there.
The plaster is applied to the walls to obtain a uniform surface with a thin layer and is leveled with a spatula, and then rubbed with a special tool - mortar until the maximum possible flatness is achieved.
After the plaster mixture has dried, the surfaces are again ground and smoothed out with the finishing putty mixture.
The first way - using the ready-made mounting kit
Set for masonry glass blocks One of the systems that allows you to raise a partition from glass blocks even to the inexperienced in building a person is BlockLock.
The profiles included in the kit are made of foamed polyvinyl chloride, which is not afraid of frost and summer high temperatures, so they can be used when installing not only interior partitions, but also when laying glass blocks in the outer walls of the house.
3t1 On the clean surface of the floor and walls, along the marked lines on a special glue, such as "Hermetic" or "Moment", the profiles of the required length are fixed. After this, the adhesive should be allowed to dry thoroughly.
The drying period can be obtained by reading the enclosed instructions.
Next, glue is applied to the installed profiles.
3t2 Then on the short profile, which will be installed between two glass blocks, also glue is applied.
3t3 Next, on the glued to the floor and wall profiles, the first glass block is installed, and a short profile, glazed with glue, is mounted on the side.
So the entire first row of the partition is going.
3t4 The next step is the installation of a long profile, which is laid on top of the entire first row, pre-coated with glue.
3t5 After lifting six to seven rows, the construction should be left to dry and secure. This process usually takes about a day.
After this period, the partition rises to the ceiling or to a level as planned.
After that, it must again dry, about 24 hours.
3t6 The final step is to seal all the gaps between the glass blocks of the trowel.
All slits are covered with the material, and the excess is immediately erased from the surface of the glass blocks.
The second method of laying glass blocks - on the construction adhesive
3т7 The laying of glass blocks in this case is carried out on a polymer or sand-cement mortar.
In addition to it, you will need a reinforcing bar, with a diameter of 4 ÷ 6 mm and mounting brackets or linings.
It should also be noted that the partition mounted in this way should not be larger than 15 m ² and longer than 6 m.
If a larger partition wall is necessary, mounted from glass blocks, then it is necessary to strengthen the strapping reinforcement.
3t8 When laying glass blocks on a mortar, it is recommended to limit the strip of masonry with a bar or metal profile.
On the strip, on the floor and wall, a layer of mortar thickness of 5 ÷ 10 mm is applied, then the first glass block is installed on it and is well pressed.
Reinforcement can be installed between each of the row units or every two blocks.
3t9 To ensure that the distance between the blocks is the same, special plastic crossings are installed, somewhat resembling crosses used for laying ceramic tiles.
3t10 After laying the first row, before it is applied to the mortar, it is completely covered with reinforcing wire and, if necessary, metal spacers are installed which will give stability to the upper row and fix the reinforcing wire.
3T11 The solution is then applied, and then the next row is laid.
So work continues until the partition is raised to the desired height.
3t12 After completion of the laying of glass blocks, the seams between them, as well as when laying ceramic tiles, must be sealed.
This process can be carried out using a rubber spatula, grout, or a construction gun and the composition that is produced in sealed tubes.
When closing the seams, the excess composition that has fallen on the surface of the glass blocks should be immediately removed carefully so that no traces remain.
Illustration of Brief description of operation

door box and door are installed in the ready partition. Gaps formed between it and the wall are filled with mounting foam. When it solidifies, the of its is cut off excessively, and the gaps are closed by the platbands.

On the aligned and dried walls of the partition, can be applied with decorative coating, which will help it to fit into the overall interior of each of the two resulting rooms or areas.

How to decorate an erected brick or block partition?

subpage-plasterer Detailed instructions on technology for plastering the walls of and their final alignment using filler are available in the specially dedicated to publications on our portal.

Video: installation tips for partitions from foam blocks

Installation of septum from glass blocks

Partition of glass blocks

Partition from glass blocks

The partition from glass blocks can be various ways.

  • Modern manufacturers produce ready-made systems for the installation of such partitions, which include special profiles and glue, which come complete with glass blocks.
  • Another way to raise this structure is with adhesive mortar, special metal supports and reinforcing wire, which is laid between the blocks.
  • The third way is suitable for for those who do not like to bother with adhesive compounds, because when using its blocks are installed in a special wooden or metal frame and are sealed with rubber gaskets.
The frame method of installing a partition from glass blocks

Frame installation method for partitioning from glass blocks

The most difficult stage of work will be assembling the frame and of a reliable fixing it to the ceiling, floor and wall. After that, it remains only to install the blocks, overlaid them with rubber gaskets and picking up the necessary coloring.

The first two more complex masonry methods should be considered step by step:

Sliding partitions

Sliding partitions can be manufactured independently, and if such a decision is made, it is necessary to remember that you should buy all the elements of the mechanism in the kit. It should include guides, roller mechanisms and stopper , a well thought-out fastening system. The number of parts will depend on the type of construction.

Set for sliding doors or partitions

Kit for sliding doors or partitions

In order for the to make a sliding partition, you will need the material which is purchased after the dimensions have been removed from the of the opening, in the it will be installed .Based on the measurements, the sketch and drawing are executed with all parameters transferred to them.

Sliding partitions are usually made to be light

Sliding partitions usually try to make light

The sliding structure does not have to be of heavy , so for its manufacturers must select enough lightweight material. In addition, you need to have a set of tools that can "refine" the exterior of the partition. But the most important thing, without which it is not enough in such a thin and precise operation of - is the certain experience.

Is there a desire to independently assemble the sliding partition?

1_3 As this construction is much like sliding doors, it only has a larger area, then for detailed instructions on its manufacture, you can refer to article of portal "How to make door-coupe with your own hands" .

The choice of the partition for the room directly depends on the size of the shared room, and from the , which I would like to receive after completion of the work. If there is a need to divide the room completely or into separate zones, it is necessary to take into account all the nuances, such as financial costs, the weight of the future building and the ability to interstage it to withstand, interior decoration, the ability of sound absorption of a material and other criteria. For in for "for" and "against" , you can proceed to the selection and installation of the desired option.

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