Which tree should I choose to make doors?
For the production of wood suitable for both deciduous and coniferous species, the choice of which is most often determined by the appointment of the door and the financial capabilities of the owner. Oak doors are durable and respectable, the beech has a distinctly pronounced wood texture, the ash doors are elegant and durable.
Of course, such noble varieties of wood are expensive, so they are used more often not for a set of interior doors, but for the entrance, the front door, which will be in everyone's mind. This purpose is promoted also by reliability, unpretentiousness and rich appearance of an oak, a beech and an ash-tree. But for interior variants you can take a tree and simpler.
The most widespread in our country have been coniferous wood species, in particular pine. At a relatively low price coniferous trees have sufficient strength and durability, high resinity is a good protection against fungal diseases and putrefaction. Of coniferous species, wooden doors for country houses and interior spaces are very good.
Wooden doors with own hands - how to make blanks?
On how to make a wooden door, we'll talk below. We will need a hacksaw, a ruler or a meter, a screwdriver and a chisel, a well sharpened knife, as well as a hammer and sandpaper. From the materials we will stock a sheet of fiberboard without chips and scratches, two dried edged boards 25 mm thick and 200 mm wide, self-tapping screws and carpentry glue.
First of all, based on the internal dimensions and type of the door frame, you should set the door leaf dimensions and the fitting clearance, and also determine the lower lumen. From a sheet of fiberboard on the established sizes we cut out two measured cloths, special attention turning on strict observance of direct corners.
From the boards we cut two blanks along the length of the blade and three along its width. The pieces should be sanded with coarse sandpaper. On the prepared flat surface( it can be and the floor covered with newspapers) we put a door leaf a smooth side downwards.
On it we have two long boards along the edges, and on them perpendicular from above, from below and in the middle - three short segments. As a result, you should get a strict rectangle without protruding edges, and the middle cross-bar should be located several centimeters above or below the intended location of the lock and door handle.
With a pencil or marker mark the relative position of the boards, as well as their location on the hardboard, after which the boards can be removed.
How to make the final product according to all the rules?
Perhaps, the most crucial moment in this whole procedure will be the cutting of the blanks to join the boards. Therefore, we choose the most simple method - the method of direct overlap with the depth of a saw cut into half the thickness of the board.
After completing this procedure, the boards stacked in the rectangle and the middle crosspiece must be in the same plane. The work requires attention and will be more reliable if you initially drank a little less depth, and to the necessary condition, you can pick up a knife or a chisel.
The undersides of the two long boards are greased with joinery glue, we also circle and mark the places marked for them on the fiberboard. The boards are laid in place and carefully aligned along the edges of the door leaf. All cuts are covered with a layer of glue and we arrange short boards in their places, after having treated them with the same glue.
Once again we check the accuracy of straight angles and self-tapping screws 25 mm tightly fasten short pieces of boards to long ones. In the same order for the resulting semi-finished product we lay the second fiberboard sheet with a smooth side outward. For a more reliable gripping of the glue, we place a load on top, which in two days can be removed, and the door made to decorate as desired.
Before installing the wooden door, it must be cut in place. It should be noted that the doors in the wooden house, which is waiting for shrinkage, are installed in the door frames with grooves for a free vertical stroke when shrinking, which should be taken into account when manufacturing.
