Installing a steel bath with your own hands

The bathroom is, almost the main room in the house, well, in any case, one of the main. Each owner of housing strives to create a cozy atmosphere for a comfortable stay in it. To achieve this, you have to periodically repair and update the plumbing. The most difficult task is to replace the cuvette. About how to install a steel bath with your own hands and will go further.

Steel bath: advantages, disadvantages and solutions

Steelbaths are very comfortable and inexpensive, they have, like everything around their advantages and disadvantages. But the fact is that the advantages they have are quite weighty, and the shortcomings are easily eliminated. Let's consider in more detail the main advantages:

• with high-quality steel baths never enameled cover, because conscientious manufacturers apply it at high temperatures, literally "baking" into the metal surface. After such a procedure, the steel itself acquires a special strength;

• steel bathtubs remain white and shiny even after many years of use;

• steel is a more plastic material than the rest, so in stores you can find a wide selection of different forms and modifications;

• steel bathtubs are easy to transport due to their light weight. They weigh several times less than, for example, cast-iron;

• among steel bathtubs is easier to find a model of non-typical sizes than among baths made from other materials.

Some disadvantages:

• inexpensive models of steel baths can be deformed at high loads. This will entail the appearance of cracks on the enamel coating. In order to avoid this, it is better to purchase more expensive models with thick walls( from 3 mm);

• steel poorly holds heat, so water can quickly cool down. To solve this problem, you need to install a bathtub, cover it on the back with a mounting foam;

• when the bath is filled with water, a strong buzz is heard. To reduce it, as well as in the previous case, mounting foam is useful.

The tools and materials that will be required for mounting the

• drill;

• spanner;

• cement;

• sand;

• sealant;

• electrical tape;

• mounting foam;

• waterproof paint;

• building level;

• corrugated tube;

• equipment for plums;

• strapping for bath.

Before starting the installation work, it is advisable to check the condition of the sewer system and, if necessary, to adjust it, otherwise after the installation there will be problems and have to be dismantled again.

Install the bath in such a way that it was easy to connect to the water supply, attach the faucets. To the communications it is necessary to attach a siphon, overflow funnel, pipes for outflow of water, tee. After proceeding to assembling the strapping, following the usual instructions, and treating the joints with a sealant.

How to choose a siphon

Siphons for bathtubs are produced in very many different types. There are semi-automatic, which make it possible to discharge the water, not diving into it with your hand and not scampering on the bottom, and turning a special washer fixed above the water. The cork will rise by itself, and the water will begin to leave.

Such siphons are much more expensive than regular ones and you should not pay extra for them if the installed bath is very large. In the average houses with small bathrooms, the usual device made of plastic, which will serve as faith and truth for many years, and also requires less effort for self-installation, is quite suitable.

Some siphons have metal outlets that attach to the overflow and siphon with a bolt. They are easier to install than plastic ones, and their appearance is much more beautiful. But there are disadvantages in the presence of metal: sometimes manufacturers, especially Chinese ones, replace stainless steel with nickel-plated iron, due to which metal parts start to rust over time. Fasteners are also very often made of material susceptible to corrosion. They after a couple of years stick together to each other so that it is almost impossible to unscrew them.

Installation of a steel bath

The installation of a steel bath must be carried out in the sequence detailed below:

• First of all, it is necessary to put in the proper state the part that will occupy the bath, i.e.make a screed, put on the floor tiles;

• then you need to think about the props. It is advisable to install a steel bath on the corners of 2.5 cm. Drill holes in advance and make markings on the wall. We attach corners to it with screws and dowels. When making work, it is necessary to make sure that the corners are in the same plane, remembering at the same time the height of the legs of the bath and the slope that should be observed during installation;

• now make a bath and put it on the intended place on its side, exposing the bottom towards the wall. The hole through which the water will flow should be located on the side of the drain pipe left in the floor;

• in the next stage it is necessary to fix on the bottom of the bath two reliable legs in the upper side. Tighten the bolts with moderate force, because with a large pressure you can break the nut. Next, install the remaining legs by turning the bathtub on the second side. Usually adjustable legs come complete with a bathtub;

• in the next stage, checking the strength of the fastening, you need to adjust its height by applying the adjusting mechanism. In order for the water to leave quickly and without residue into the drainage hole, it is necessary to install the bath, with a slight inclination towards it;

• further follows the installation of a steel bath on the legs and the elimination of the gap between it and the wall by mounting foam, sealant or tile adhesive. This is necessary, firstly, in order that during the bath, moisture does not flow into the gap between the side of the bath and the wall, and secondly, in order that it does not turn over if there is a load on one edge. To give a beautiful appearance to the place of the joint, it should be painted with a water-repellent dye or overlaid with tiles. Also it can be decorated with a plastic corner for tile, gluing it on the sealant;

• now it is necessary to connect the corrugated pipe and piping through the gasket, laying it cone in the direction of the strapping, tightening the nut;

• to check if everything is correctly connected, you need to get water in the bath and see if there will be somewhere to flow. If the plug is closed and the connection between the pipe and the bath is leaking, this means that you have incorrectly installed the gasket. In the absence of a leak, it is necessary to check the connection of the piping by lowering the collected water. If you are sure that you acted exactly according to the instructions, but the water is still leaking, then the nut is not tightened enough, therefore, it needs to be tightened;

• after all errors have been corrected, the floor under the drain pipe and all connections must be lifted dry and put a toilet paper under the pipe. This is needed for another check. The bath is filled to half with hot water, then we open the cork. If by the time it is empty, the paper remains dry, which means that the installation has been done correctly.

During operation, it is necessary to remember the grounding. It is done as follows: the wire is fixed at one end to the metal structure, and the other to the bath. It should not be overlooked that it is not allowed to ground to a water pipe or to heating.

Bath fixing on brick supports

Above we considered how to install a bathtub on adjustable feet. However, many experts say that it is much more reliable to install a steel bath on bricks. In their opinion, only standing on the brick supports, it will be absolutely motionless.

The immobility must be ensured, firstly, to achieve maximum comfort in use, and secondly, to avoid the occurrence of cracks in the places of fixing the sides to the walls. In these cracks in time of bathing, water that can not dry because of dampness can spill. This can contribute to the appearance of fungus or mold.

To form brick supports you need a red brick. They should be of such a height that when the bath rises on them, its board is 60 cm from the floor. The number of racks is selected depending on the length of the bathroom. The distance between them should be about half a meter.

The installation process consists of the following steps:

• prepare everything you need. Under a bath of standard length, two supports, having a height of 2-3 rows, will suffice. This will require about 20 bricks. To make a hollow under the bottom, at the edges it will be necessary to lay another half of the brick. The height of the rear support should exceed the height of the front by 2 cm to provide the slope, which was mentioned above, but do not forget that many modern models of baths already have a small angle in their construction;

• for the production of mortar, one part of the cement is mixed with four parts of sand, mixing with water. After the pylons are laid out, it is advisable to allow them to stand for about 24 hours, so that the bricks are as secure as possible with the cement;

• before installing the bath on the supports, it is necessary to carry out the work on the arrangement of the discharge system described above;

• installation and fixing of a steel bath on bricks should be done very carefully. It is best to give it stability on the supports with a tape sealant. Move the bath to the wall as tightly as possible, fix it better with tile adhesive, sometimes use metal profiles, screws and dowels;

• after installation, you must connect it to the sewerage, install the cranes, close it with a decorative screen.

To enable you to easily install a steel bath yourself, a video with visual instructions can be found on this page.