The process of arrangement of a bathroom is quite an important component of repair in an apartment. As a rule, the bathroom does not always have the desired dimensions, since most of the buildings in the housing stock have been built for a long time. In view of this, space saving remains an important issue, in the solution of which the installed shower tray is the best option. The installation of this element is a time-consuming process, but it gives a positive result.
Contents
Pallet types
Depending on the type of construction , the saucers can be divided into the following types:
- flat( 10 to 18 cm);
- super-flat( from 6 to 10 cm);
- deep( from 25 to 35 cm).
According to the criterion of product form, it is customary to use the following classification:
- round pallet;
- is a polygon;
- is a free-form product.
Modern manufacturers represent a wide range of designs, among which the optimum shower tray can be bought in a universal form - a quarter of a circle. This structure allows you to mount the product in a corner, taking up a minimum of space in the room.
Depending on the of ,
- is available in the following types:
- The acrylic shower tray is a modern product that is lightweight, has a wide range of shapes and colors, and is practical - small scratches are almost invisible on the surface. However, such a structure is not very strong, and therefore requires a fastening or reinforced bottom.
- Cast iron saucer is an expensive, but the most durable and durable product among its counterparts. The disadvantage of this choice is the uniformity of the forms.
- Steel products - such a shower tray high is distinguished by its strength, relatively low weight and cheapness. However, it is less durable, in comparison with the cast-iron bottom, and also produces noise under the stream of water, in contrast to acrylic constructions.
- A pallet made of ceramic material - is distinguished by high aesthetic value, considerable cost and durability. However, such structures are not too resistant to damage, and also cold.
- Marble saucers are the most expensive products, which are quite practical, in order warmer than ceramic analogs, but fragile and prone to chips.
Required tools
To install the shower tray with your own hands is quite feasible, but to realize the idea conceived you will need to prepare a lot of tools:
- punch;
- pallet components;
- building level;
- screwdriver;
- self-tapping set;
- sewer pipes;
- plastic dowels;
- screwdrivers;
- drill with drill bits for concrete;
- set of plugs;
- penokleks;
- a concrete mortar and a container for it;
- sand;
- trowel;
- silicone sealant.
Mounting the shower tray onto the legs
This variant of the installation is the simplest and is suitable for realization in any room, since it does not require preparation of the floor covering. Let's consider step-by-step instructions for the execution of works.
- Prepare the purchased product and place the future supports so that they are parallel to the main axis of the saucer.
- Then, in accordance with the type of design, you need to measure the distance from the axis and mark the mark with 4 holes on the thickened bottom.
Important! The pallet axis is the line that connects the opposite corners of the product if it has a rectangular shape. And in the constructions of a semicircular type, it lies between the angle and the center of the arc.
- At the marked locations, drill a groove with a diameter of 3 mm. In this case, take extreme care: in order not to damage the integrity of the saucer, do not drill the drill bit more than 10 mm.
- After this, secure the support beam.
- Install the shower tray on the legs. For evenness of geometry use the building level.
- On the surface of the wall, mark the height of the upper side of the pallet with the marker, and make a marking at a distance of 100 mm from the angle where the axis of the brackets will pass.
- Along the axis, under the side of the saucer, drill a groove with a depth of 8 mm.
- Insert plastic dowels into the holes, in which you need to fix the clamps using screws.
- Apply a thick layer of sealant to the upper part of these elements and hang the pallet there.
- After the product "sits down" as tightly as possible, complete the siphon.
Mounting the saucer on the floor
Installing a self-supporting shower bottom is a simple but painstaking process that requires utmost accuracy. To the result pleased the master, you must follow the instructions exactly. So, the step-by-step guide looks like this:
- Prepare the required pallet and check all drain connections. For greater reliability, grind the sandwich areas of the shower enclosure and the floor with sandpaper.
- Apply silicone sealant to cleaned areas. Move along the perimeter of the square, about 1 cm from the outer border.
- Measure the height of the edge of the product along the wall and mark it with a marker.
- Then drill the grooves and mount the plastic hooks that stabilize the position of the structure.
- Place the saucer bowl on the prepared area and press it down with a strong push. This will allow the adhesive composition to tightly fix the bottom on the floor covering.
- Then tighten and install the siphon.
- The resulting gap between the tile and the saucer must be filled with silicone sealant and special plastic strips, which are usually supplied with the product.
- The pallet is ready for use.
Installing a floor pan
This method is the most time consuming, as it requires thorough preparation as well as construction skills. However, efforts are rewarded with a reliable and durable result. The installation instructions for the pallet in the floor are as follows.
Stage 1. Waterproofing
The first step in the installation of the shower tray is the waterproofing of the place where it will be located. To do this, it is necessary to perform the following actions:
- to bring a sewer pipe to the very center of the saucer;
- carefully check each element of the system for chips or cracks to avoid possible leaks;
- , pour the retracted angle with a sealant or fibreoresin, and discharge the outlet pipe 15 cm above the floor;
- allow to dry for 24 hours.
Important! It is not recommended to put a plastic sink, even if the manufacturer assures in its reliability and durability. Replace it with brass or steel, so that unpleasant incidents do not occur and the design has served for decades.
Stage 2. Installation of the
barrier After the site has been carefully sealed and the sewage system laid, it is possible to proceed with the laying of the protective barrier. The process is performed in the following order:
- , mark the height of the barrier line, as well as the brick perimeter, which must be at least 5 cm above the level of the sewer pipe;
- Prepare a moisture-resistant mortar by thoroughly mixing it in a container with a trowel or spatula;
- ratio of cement and sand 1: 1, with the addition of liquid glass, to ensure the construction of excellent water repellent characteristics;
- lay a brick around the perimeter, placing it on the edge;
- allow to dry for 48 hours.
Stage 3. Floor pouring
This process takes place in the following sequence:
- Initially, it is necessary to make the base pouring using self-leveling cement composition. The layer should be as level as possible, filling the whole space of the corner, and also have a thickness of 5 to 8 mm.
- Treat the surface with a reinforced waterproofing after drying. For this purpose, FIBERPOOL mastic, Dekoprof or others are suitable.
- After the insulation layer is completely dry, mix the solution. To do this, use tile adhesive and cement.
- Slowly, in concentric circles, apply a layer, gently increasing the thickness of the layer from the drain hole. Try to maintain the level of curvature, because roughness and rough transitions can not be hidden under the lining.
- When the compound dries, peel the surface to eliminate irregularities and roughness.
Stage 4: Decorative cladding
External aesthetics of the shower room - this is an important factor that should be taken into account in the repair work. In this case, the optimal solution will be tiling the floor with mosaic tiles, because it perfectly hides the small errors when pouring. Use a glass mosaic designed for baths, since such a material has anti-slip characteristics and does not lose external appeal over the years.
Recommendations for the process:
- Before installing the shower tray, you need to determine which design is planned in general: a shower cabin or a cabin. This is necessary in order to conduct power supply during construction, if the installation of a shower cabin. Connection to the network takes place by means of a copper cable with a cross-section of at least 2.5 mm. It must also have double insulation. It is necessary to provide for the installation of a protective shutdown to ensure safety.
- Despite the decorative shower trays, photos of which are decorated with designer magazines, the design must have good sound insulation. The sound of the water that is beating against the tray will not please the owner, as well as his neighbors. Modern technologies allow us to use a lot of options for isolation, and therefore do not neglect it.
- The best tool for checking the position of the saucer is the water level.
The pallet installation manual can be viewed in detail on the video:
