This material is a board, the edges of which are treated in a special way. On the one hand on the lateral edge protrusion formed - spike, on the other - a groove whose dimensions correspond to the dimensions of the stud.

When mounting a spike of one board into the groove the other, and thus trim parts are connected without gaps and crevices.

Wall paneling can be made of different wood, but the cheapest for finishing (and therefore most popular) - pine.

According to the shape and appearance similar to wood, but differs significantly in structure. The basis for the sheathing panels of pressed and glued cellulosic fiber. The front surface is covered with thick melamine paper on which a drawing (mostly - wood imitation).

MDF panels are cheaper than natural wood wainscot, but inferior to her, and mechanical strength, and moisture resistance.

Panels made of PVC (polyvinyl chloride) may also be used for covering of balconies and stairs. These advantages include high moisture resistance and low cost.

On the other hand, the plastic strength is small, and appearance such inferior finish and wood, and MDF.

Exceptions are PVC panels texture made of thick plastic with internal stiffening ribs. But the price of such products is much higher than the standard plastic lining.

Waterproofing of balcony base most often carried out either using penetrating formulations for concrete or using bitumen mastics.

The most effective treatment is the complex using a liquid waterproofing and laying polyethylene film or membrane.

Before sheathe balcony or loggia, it is desirable not only to protect against moisture, but also to insulate.

It is considered most economical for this insulation using foam or polystyrene: we need slab thickness from 50 to 100 mm.

Thermal insulation with mineral wool (50 mm thick) would be more expensive. On the other hand, mineral wool is different vapor permeability, which contributes to normal ventilation in the room and reduces the risk of the walls of a fungus.

From inside the heater block desirable vapor barrier film preventing penetration of moisture. The cheapest option here - to use a dense polyethylene.

More efficient use of foil materials based on polyethylene foam. They not only provide a vapor barrier, but also act as insulation, reflecting infrared radiation back into space.

The walls under the skin are exposed to moisture, which can cause the development of bacteria and fungi. Deal with this problem will help processing antiseptic primer.

It is also an antiseptic used to impregnate the elements of the framework, and sometimes the most lining.

Universal material for sealing cracks sticking Plate heat insulator and perform similar operations. It is desirable to take a little low modulus brand spreading factor: thus after polymerization of the sealant layer is a more dense and homogeneous.

To sheathe clapboard walls and ceiling, on the supporting surface on top of the thermal insulation must be installed crate. It lathing made of timber battens or section of at least 20x40 or 30x30 mm.

The frame is mounted either on the wall or (if the insulation thickness is more than 50 mm) on the plate metal brackets.

To sheathe the loggia wooden paneling, the panels made of MDF or PVC need such fixing elements:

• anchor with metal or plastic sleeves;
• Belleville dowels for fixing polystyrene insulation;
• nails;
• screws for wood;
• Galvanized steel bracket;
• clamps (clips) for lining.

Linings made of plastic or MDF does not require additional treatment.

And to protect the wood panels can be used:

• stains;
• varnishes;
• oil;
• waxes;
• interior (water-dispersible or enamel) paint.

If on the balcony or loggia frames have been previously installed, perform their dismantling. To do this, remove the flap is then sawn and gently break out of the frame.

When the balcony railing manufactured of concrete or rigid metal profile, the frame can be placed directly on it.

If necessary, fence reinforced with wooden beams or weldments.

Also possible construction of a new parapet using aerated concrete or concrete blocks.

Frame mounted on a balcony railing, aligned and fixed. Used for fixing the metal mounting plate and anchor bolts.

All gaps between the frames and the edges of the opening are filled with self-expanding construction foam. Outside, it is desirable to close the gaps nashchelnikami - it will eliminate foam collapse under ultraviolet light.

Sash hung on hinges. If necessary, performed sash alignment adjustment screws.

After completion of the work shall be established:

• sunshields (may be pre-attached before);
• dewatering strips;
• window sills.

All concrete or brick surfaces are treated with antiseptic penetrating. This will protect the ground under the skin against fungi and bacteria.

When processing is required to use a respirator, goggles and protective clothing.

Insulated panels are clipped to size and stuck on the walls, ceiling and balcony railings. For gluing use low modulus polyurethane foam with good adhesion.

To improve the reliability of fixing each panel further anchoring dowel several umbrellas.

Above the insulation layer laid foil material on the basis of polyethylene foam.

Joints sizing tape web material with a metal coating forming a continuous web without gaps and crevices.

The gaps between the floor and the balcony guardrail embedded sealant or polyurethane foam.

If the gap is large, it may be necessary sealing both the inside and the outside.

Balcony plates cleaned from dust and debris and process the composition of a moisture - either penetrating or superficial, based on bitumen.

On top of the base can be treated paste waterproofing membrane or dense bed layer polyethylene film.

On the basis laid joists (stacking step - about 60 cm) and carefully align their level. To be placed horizontally placed under the joists cranial bars or plastic mounting wedges.

Fix to the floor structure by means of anchors.

In the cell between joists put cropped in size of the panel heat insulating material.

The gaps between the insulation and joists fill the self-expanding foam - so we avoid the emergence of "cold bridges".

lag laid on top of the plywood at least 12 mm thick. Fix plywood sheets to logs using screws.

On the basis of increments of about 50-60 cm set the horizontal bars. For fixing dowels use with a plastic liner, the length of which should allow to pass through the heat insulation layer.

Bars themselves secured by screws, screwing them into the pre-installed anchors.

When installing the first frame anchoring several vertical boards, placing them in increments of about one meter. Then they were through every 30-40 cm fasten horizontal slats.

By the same principle holds batten setting for the ceiling paneling.

Expose framework strictly on the level.

Where batten bars in contact with the vapor barrier membrane and insulation, fill the gaps with foam. This will reduce heat loss.

Clipped in size panel or MDF, plastic, to attach the roof sheathing. For fixing use steppler building with galvanized staples.

Each following panel is inserted into the groove already installed, align and fix to the frame.

In order not to damage the edges of the panels, MDF is fixed by means of clips, clamps. For fastening plastic is allowed to use "liquid nail".

By the same token we perform plating installation on vertical surfaces. Here it is necessary to closely monitor so that the panel does not warp.

After completion of the primary plating anchoring all missing items - sloping strips, angled linings, moldings, flat strips, etc.

Also at this stage it is possible to perform the installation of decorative moldings.

After skin panel made of natural wood dedusting, dried varnish and autopsied.

Varnish is applied in several layers, using a wide flat brush or roller.

To impart the desired tint timber (this may be necessary, for example when plating light pine lining) in the lacquer composition can be added Kohler component.

But the lining of plastic and MDF additional treatment is not needed.

On rough floor laid flooring - laminate, linoleum, sexual decking, etc. Doing so it is desirable at the end of the work - so finishing the floor will not be spoiled and soiled in the previous operations.

The final touch - setting the threshold in front of the balcony door trims and binding on trim moldings. These parts are fastened either using screws (for plating natural wood) or with an adhesive such as "liquid nail".