The bathroom is a place with constantly high humidity, most often without windows. To prevent the formation of fungus and mold on the walls, deterioration of interior objects requires high-quality ventilation, removing excess moisture outside the home.
Types of ventilation
Ventilation in the bathroom can be natural or forced. Below are analyzed the advantages and disadvantages of these types of ventilation.
Natural
In old Soviet houses and modern buildings of economy class, as a rule, natural ventilation is used. The air flow in it arises from the difference in temperature between the internal and external air. In addition, a deflector can be installed at the outlet of the ventilation duct. The deflector strengthens the draft in the ventilation system in windy weather due to the Bernoulli effect.
Such a system is cheap, easy to install, practically maintenance-free, no electricity required for operation. At the same time, it is necessary to note the shortcomings of natural ventilation - it does not work well in hot weather( there is no temperature difference) and, in addition, it is very sensitive to the cleanliness of ventilation ducts.
Forced
Forced ventilation is provided by fans or other mechanical devices. It is independent of weather conditions and can, with the right selection of fans, provide any necessary mode of ventilation. Minus forced ventilation - it needs electricity and therefore it is necessary to lay wires to each fan.
It is advisable to do a forced ventilation system if the natural one does not manage or a steam generator or an electric sauna is planned to be installed.
Diagnosis of the ventilation system
For a simple diagnosis of the ventilation system you will need a candle. Bring a burning candle to the vent. If there is a stream of air - the flame will deflect, indicating its direction. If the ventilation does not work, the flame will remain vertical.
Often the ventilation does not work well due to clogged channels, but because of insufficient intake of fresh air. For example, this problem occurs in old houses when replacing wooden windows with plastic ones. To avoid this, choose windows with special ventilators.
How to choose the right new fan
In bathrooms usually install small axial fans for bathroom and toilet capacity of 60-250 m3 / h.
If the hood is installed in an existing ventilation duct, please note that its shape matches the shape and size of the duct. Correctly selected extractor should be completely placed in the ventilation duct. Outside, there is only a decorative grille, the shape and size of which can be selected for the interior of the bathroom.
Security
The hood, like any electrical equipment for the bathroom, must have a waterproof housing that prevents water from entering the electrical parts. The standard indication of the degree of protection of the device is the IP code. The code consists of the letters IP and two digits. The first digit indicates the degree of protection against access to foreign objects, the second - the degree of moisture protection.
For bathroom it is recommended to take devices with the degree of protection IP45 and above. Such devices are protected from water jets.
Productivity
For bathroom 6-8 times air turnover is necessary. P The capacity of the selected hood should be no less than six times the volume of your bathroom.
For example: the size of your bathroom is 2x2x2.5m, its volume is 10 m3.You need a hood capacity of at least 60 m3 / h.
Noise level
In a small room in the bathroom, the fan noise is clearly audible. A noise of over 35 decibels can irritate the human psyche. Therefore, give preference to low noise models.
Noisy fan depends on the shape of its blades and the speed of their rotation. If there is a choice - take a large diameter fan with a small rotation speed. At the same performance, it will make noise less than small and fast.
When installing, do not forget to treat all joints with silicone sealant to avoid vibrations and rattles during operation.
Functionality of
Modern fan models are equipped with various additional devices that make their use more comfortable and economical:
- Check valve - prevents the air from entering ventilation ducts into the room even when the fan is not working. It is necessary if the ventilation duct is common for several rooms.
- Humidity sensor - detects the presence of excess steam in the air and allows the fan to work only when necessary.
- Motion sensor - includes hood and lighting when people are in the room.
- Timer - allows the hood to run for a while after turning it off with the switch.
- Silencer is a device installed in front of the fan and reduces noise from it.
Extract for bathrooms and toilets
In private houses
In a private house it is necessary to design ventilation during the construction phase, pre-laying ventilation ducts and channels for wiring. If the volume of the bathroom is small and it is used by 1-2 people, then you can get by with natural ventilation. In other cases it is necessary to install the hood.
When designing the ventilation, remember:
- supply channels must be at the bottom, exhausts at the top of the room;
- is best to install the hood on the wall of the opposite door;
- the internal surface of the ducts should be as smooth as possible;
- ventilation ducts should be made as straight as possible, or with smooth turns;
- for rooms located on different floors must be separate air ducts.
In wooden houses
In a wooden house, excessive moisture not only spoils the appearance, but can damage load-bearing building structures. Therefore, additional ventilation is necessary in places with high humidity( bathroom, toilet, kitchen).
Prices
Prices for hoods depend on their performance, noise, body material and the availability of additional options. The cheapest models cost from 500 rubles. The price of expensive models can reach 5-6 thousand rubles.
If you order the installation of a master, then you have to pay another 2-3 thousand rubles, depending on the complexity of the work.
Self-assembling - steps of work
For installation of the hood, it is necessary to lay channels for wiring in the walls in advance( up to finishing). You can not open the wiring in the bathroom.
The hood can be equipped with a separate switch or switched on simultaneously with light. There are models that are switched on from a humidity or motion sensor. In advance, consider the wiring diagram and arrange wiring in accordance with it.
When connecting the extractor, remember that the switch should be set to phase, not to zero. If you are not sure of your abilities, contact a professional electrician.
The installation of the hood directly is quite simple. In multi-apartment buildings, it is usually inserted into an existing vent. Mounting to the wall is carried out by screws. Additional work is not required.
If the hood is installed after laying the tile, then not to drill the tile, you can glue the hood with a silicone sealant. For this, it is necessary to drip the silicone at the corners of the hood( next to the holes for self-tapping screws) and insert it into the desired place. If excess silicone leaked out, after hardening, cut them with a sharp knife.
