Partition of plasterboard with their own hands

Drywall nowadays is extremely popular among professionals and amateurs, and is increasingly used for the installation of partitions and for walls in apartments and houses. Due to its ease of , the material can be used freely in multi-storey buildings or on the second floor or attic of a private house - this construction will not have a significant load on the floor. Easy mounting gives the ability for new builders to independently install a partition or wall panel.

The plasterboard partition with its own hands can be installed after studying the sequence and rules of the process, familiarization with the nuances of working with this material.

It should be noted that drywall is used for mounting both blind walls, and partitions, having windows of different shapes. Its ability to take the right forms, with the right conditions created for this, makes it possible to make arched openings of or to arrange windows in partitions of round or other curvilinear shape.

The ability of drywall sheets to undergo a planned plastic deformation allows you to mount partitions with with bulky edges and with a device of original shelves that can withstand rows of books or the installation of home appliances in them.

If earlier in the apartment you had to drag up bulky standard furniture, today, using drywall, you can create exclusive wall variants that will immediately perform two functions - the space separator and the piece of furniture. It turns out a double saving of money and places, which is especially important for not too spacious apartments.

Materials to install drywall

partition What is necessary to have to create such a partition, except for the main matiala - drywall ?

. Of the additional materials, very little is needed, and what is very important is that all the necessary components for mounting such a wall have an affordable price.

Another one advantage of all the materials for creating a drywall partition is that they do not pollute the premises of a house or apartment the way it is, for example, capable of making concrete mortars.

So, if you take into account all the possible options, then for mounting the partition you will need:

• 6 , ASL .Conventional drywall with a thickness of 12 mm - the most optimal Variant nt for septums in rooms with normal humidity. When installing walls, which will separate the bathroom, kitchen, bathroom, you will need a moisture-resistant plasterboard that has a soft green color - this is how the manufacturer distinguishes its functional features. There are other types of drywall, from which you can select the desired, depending on the location of the partition and from the its form.

Gypsum board grade	Thickness in mm	Dimension in mm
GKL( normal)	12.5	2500 × 1200
GKLV( waterproof)	12.5	2500 × 1200
GKLO( fire-resistant)	12.5	2500 × 1200
GKLO( fire-resistant)	12.5	2600 × 1200
GKL( with straight edge)	12.5	2500 × 1200
GKL( flexible)	6	2400 × 1200

• The metal profile and wooden bars for the frame, having a width of 75 mm, if the between two canvases willinstalled soundproof material, and 50 mm, if is simpleanstvo between gypsum sheets will be hollow or ukdazhyvatsya thin insulation. In general, , it can be said that the profile width and specifies the wall thickness parameter.
• Screws for metal structures and for wooden parts.
• Fiberglass mesh-serpian for reinforcing joints.
• Putty based on gypsum , starting and finishing - for sealing joints and eliminating surface defects.

The material consumption can be defined by according to this table, but experienced builders are recommended to take it more by 15% than will be calculated.

No.	Material name	Unit of measure	Material consumption rate per 1 sq. M.m
1.	Drywall	sq.m.	1
2.	Profile CD 60	pg.m	2
3.	UD profile 27	pg.m	2
4.	U-shaped universal bracket for mounting the material on the ceiling	pcs.	1.32
5.	Sealing tape	running gear.m	0.85
6.	Blade 6/40 mm	pcs.	2.2
7.	Screw 3.5 × 9.5( flea)	pcs.	2.7
8.	Self-tapping screw 3.5 × 25( for gypsum board)	pcs.	12
9.	Connection longitudinal for profile CD	pcs.	0.2
10.	Fiberglass mesh as a serpent	position.m	1.1
11.	Adhesive for joints( starting)	kg	0.3
12.	Primer for deep penetration	liters	0.1
13.	Gypsum cardboard filler finish	kg	1.2

Tools required forwork

When installing the partition of gypsum board, you can not do without some tools, the list of which includes:

• Screwdriver - required, because have to spin a large number of screws, and the usual screwdriver do this job will be extremely difficult.
• Long, preferably metal ruler, for marking and for cutting plasterboard sheets on it.
• A building square, will be needed for marking and for checking the correct installation of parts during installation.
• Building level - for defining the horizontal and vertical planes and racks of the frame.
• Plummet - is required to determine the ideal vertical, by combining points marked on the ceiling and on the floor.
• Pencil - for marking.
• Scissors for metal - used to prepare blanks of the required length, for cutting notches on the metal profile.
• Electric jigsaw - for cutting of the desired fragments of the bar and cutting of gypsum boards, especially in curvilinear layout.
• Spreader of medium width - for sealing joints with putty.
• Grater with finely - and medium-grained sandpaper - to smooth the putty on the seams and on the surface of the sheets of GVL.
• Primer - for the treatment of the finished partition before painting.
• Knife or a saw-saw with a small tooth for gypsum board, a construction knife with replaceable blades.
• Planer with bevelled blade for chamfering.
• It will be nice to have rivet for fastening the metal profile - it's significant will make it easier for and will speed up the work.
• Electric drill with a set of drills .
• Needle roller is needed in the event that it is planned to give plasterboard curvilinear spatial forms.
• Folding Meter and Roulette.
• Hammer for clogging dowels, screwdrivers - for mounting the frame.

All these tools and accessories are readily available for purchase in building stores.

Mounting of the frame

Any construction work begins with measurements of the installation site, calculations and marking, and the installation of the partition is no exception.

Layout

• Beginning marking is most convenient on the floor. With the help of a building corner, a long ruler( building level, rule) and a pencil, an ideally smooth line is drawn and drawn.

The rail from the metal profile will then be attached to this line.

• Immediately on this line marks the location of the door opening - on this section guide will not be fastened. The door aperture is positioned so that it can be placed with the from the one or both sides of the furniture , it should also be provided in advance.
• Now it is necessary to project the line from the floor to the ceiling - this process ss pr is navigated using plumb bob , and in this case an assistant will be needed.

Upon climbing the ladder, the assistant drops the plummet down, and the other end of it is pressed against the ceiling in the approximate area of ​​the line.

The master marks the point on the floor on the floor , which needs to be projected onto the ceiling, the assistant slowly moves the suspension cable along the until the cone of the plumb line perfectly matches the with the marked on the floor. When the goal is reached, a point is made on the point found on the ceiling. So, on the ceiling, find the tt in the point.

• In addition, on the walls at a right angle from the edges of the line of the on the floor, vertical lines to the - ceiling are drawn, they will determine the beginning and end of the horizontal line of the projection.
• Having defined the points on the ceiling, a straight horizontal line - is drawn along them on it, a guide rail will be fixed on it.

These two lines are very important, since the verticality of the future wall will depend on them. Therefore, their marking should be done with special care.

• frame installation The next stage of the is the installation of the guide profiles.

First the profile is fixed on the line on the floor using dowels. As already mentioned, the space for the door is left.

The holes for the dowels are drilled through the laid guide rails. Then they are removed, plastic plugs and dowels are jammed into the holes.

Next, the guide is laid in place, and is already fastened with screws or drive dowels.

is driven into it. After installing the floor profile, it is recommended that still reconcile its location with the ceiling guide, using a plumb line.

• The next stage guides are installed on the walls, along previously marked vertical lines. During the installation, the position is constantly checked according to the level of the in order to prevent even the slightest backlash to the side.

The bottom of the vertical profile is inserted into the horizontal rail mounted on the floor.

If the walls are concrete, the process proceeds in the same way as on the floor. If the walls are wooden, then dowels are not required for them. Screws are screwed through the guides directly into the walls.

• Next, the guide is fixed to the ceiling in the same way as on the floors. Screws are screwed at a distance of 250 ÷ 300 mm from each other. The connections between the vertical and horizontal profiles on the ceiling are made in the same way as on the floor - using self-tapping screws or using rivet .

• The next step is to determine and mark on the ceiling profile the location of the door of the opening, relying on the lower markings. This is done in the same way as before - with the help of a plumb line.

Height measurements are made to produce guides that will be installed on the sides of the door of the opening. On the standard profiles, the required length is marked, the required workpieces are cut out.

Now they need to be installed so that they can designate the door .

• The rails around the door are reinforced with wooden blocks, which are inserted directly into them and screwed with screws. Or for stability of the construction next to the first profile is installed one, reinforcing.

• After installation and strengthening of vertical profiles, the height of the door of the opening is measured. On these marks, a horizontal crossbar is screwed from the desired section of the profile, and then a wooden bar is also inserted into it, to which the vertical posts are screwed. Long self-tapping screwed into the end of the crossbar, installed horizontally.

• Further, the space between the door opening of the and the walls is measured, and then the number of vertical racks to be fixed at a distance of about 300-600 mm is calculated.

The required number of blanks of the required length is then cut. Racks are installed with ends inside rails on the floor and ceiling, with obligatory leveling. Fasten the profiles at the joints with screws with large hats or rivets.

• For larger rigidity , especially at high ceilings, horizontal bars are installed between vertical racks.

Electrical wiring

Once the framework has been completely assembled, electrical wiring is installed inside it, if it is provided.

The wiring can be carried out after fixing the drywall on the one of the sides of the frame, and it is possible before that.

In the metal profiles holes are drilled through which the wires, prisoners , are drilled into insulating corrugated or smooth tubes. The ends of the wires are left outside.

Sawing and fixing of drywall

• After conducting the wiring, on one side of the frame is fixed gypsum cardboard. It is screwed with black screws, specially designed for this purpose. The heads of the screws must be deeper in the GKL by 0,5 ÷ 1 mm.

• guides. If necessary, cut the drywall, this process is designed as follows:

- measurements are taken of the place to be closed on the frame;

- further, these dimensions are transferred to the drywall sheet - are marked and drawn using a ruler and a pencil;

- then, the cut can be done with a knife to cut paper or plasterboard, as well as a conventional hand hacksaw;

- if the cut is made with a knife, then the blade is cut along the established ruler, so that the upper layer of cardboard and gypsum is cut, but the whole bottom remained;

- then, the sheet bends over the planned line , and is cut by the knife to the end.

• The edge of the cut will not be chamfered, and this - is undesirable when sealing joints. The chamfer is made using a planer with a beveled knife.

• If you plan to install sockets or switches in the partition, after wiring in the gypsum cardboard with the help of special crowns of the desired diameter, holes are cut out, through which wires for connecting the sockets are output after the full installation of the partition. However, the ready half of the partition can be installed boxes for switches and sockets at once - it will even be more convenient.

• When the material is installed on one side of the frame, a heater is placed between the guides on its open side. Usually for this process mineral wool or insulator is used, it is possible to apply also expanded polystyrene. Leaving the cavity empty is not recommended. It's not even about keeping the heat - sometimes this function is not needed. More importantly, the hollow wall does not become a sound resonator - the thermal insulation material here, rather, will play the role of sound absorber .

• Next, the second side of the frame is sewn with gypsum board, in the same way as the first one. If the outlet and the switch are installed on this side of the wall, their position is calculated in advance, the holes are cut before the material is fixed on the frame. Wires for them are brought to the place where the hole will be located, and after installation of drywall it is taken out.

Installing the door frame

• When the partition is ready, a door hanging box is installed in the door .

• A wooden jamb with already installed hinges is leveled and fixed with the help of powerful self-tapping screws in of three or four places to the posts .Since they have previously been installed wooden bars, the cant be fixed reliably .
• The heads of the screws must be deepened in the to the thickness of the wooden posts of the box, for this in it beforehand drill holes "under zatay ".
• Next, the door is hung on the installed box. Usually the door leaf for such a design is selected as much as light by weight, so that it does not overtighten the partition in one or the other direction. If the door aperture is correctly mounted and is reinforced , then there should not be any problems with the installation and operation of the door.
• If it turned out that the door aperture was more than it is necessary, then between the columns of the partition and the door are installed wooden spacers. It is desirable that it was a thick plywood, as it does not crack when, through it the door box will be screwed to the posts. The remaining gaps between the jamb and the posts in this case are filled with a mounting foam. The foam should be allowed to expand and dry, after which it is cut with a sharp construction knife.

The gap under the door is sealed with a sealant.

Fixing the joints on the surface of the partition

After the installation completely completed , you can proceed to sealing the joints of sheets of plasterboard.

This will require a mesh-serpyanka. It is advisable to purchase a roll with already applied with glue, so that the mesh can easily stick to the cardboard surface.

• Mesh is glued to all, without exception, joints.

• Next, use trowel and starting putty to seal the joints, if possible leveling the seams to the ideal and removing the entire surplus material.

• When sealing the joints between those sheets on which the carried out an independent chamfering, a primer is applied before gluing on the serpent. It should dry well, and only after that it is possible to paste a sickle and apply a putty.
• The gaps around the door of the opening, fixed with mounting foam, should also be first impregnated with a primer and then sealed, like all other joints.
• In addition, must necessarily be filled with filler pits left from screws self-tapping screws, otherwise they can appear through decorative rust coating. After the self-tapping, the structure is left to dry completely.

• surface After drying of the putty on separate sections of the partition, its should be completely covered with a deep penetration primer. This coating will give the surface better adhesion, and the finishing putty will lie flat on the wall.
• Further, the dried surface is completely covered with a thin layer of finishing putty - , this can be done with a wide spatula. The surface is maximally leveled, so that no deep grooves remain from the movement with a spatula.
• Then, after drying of layer, it needs to be treated with with grater with and fine grained sandpaper installed. Then, if necessary, still is applied with one layer of filler, which is also dried and treated with thin emery.

• water-based paint. Before applying the decorative coating, the leveled walls are impregnated once again with a primer. Only after its drying can you proceed to wallpapering or painting the surface of the walls.

Video: installation of light gypsum plasterboard in the attic room

If it's time to redesign the attic or a large room on the first floor, there's no need to choose this particular method for erecting the partition. If you act step-by-step, following all the recommendations, even the most inexperienced beginner builder will be able to cope with this process on his own. Well, except for some stages, when it is simply impossible to do without an assistant.