Drywall has recently become one of the most sought-after materials for repair work in apartments. Large in area, smooth and smooth surfaces of the sheets allow in a short time to eliminate the curvature of the walls, prepare the room for subsequent finishing. In addition, if the GCR are mounted on a frame structure, it becomes possible to additionally insulate and soundproof the walls and ceiling.
But the creation of a frame is probably not always in all cases, since this design significantly "steals" the useful area of the room. Therefore, for the owners of urban apartments planning to carry out repairs, information on how to fix drywall to a wall without profiles is often more useful, so that the loss of space in already-tight conditions was minimal.
There are several methods for similar fastening of drywall. But for any of them, the wall requires some preparation.
Preparatory work for
Contents of the article
- 1 Preparatory work for
- 1.1 Materials and tools
- 1.1.1 Calculator for calculating the required amount of drywall
- 1.2 Surface preparation
- 1.2.1 Wall cleaning and sealing of flaws
- 1.2.2 Surface marking
- 1.1 Materials and tools
- 2 Which adhesiveis it better to use?
- 2.1 Adhesive for a flat surface
- 2.2 Features for mounting on a brick wall
- 2.3 Mounting on an uneven surface
- 3 Installing a drywall without a frame
- 3.1 Mounting on a dry construction mortar adhesive
- 3.2 Assembly on synthetic formulations
- 3.2.1 BondingGKD on mounting foam
- 3.2.1.1 Video: installation of gypsum plasterboard wall covering on mounting foam
- 3.2.2 Gluing GCR with subsequent filling of voids
- 3.2.1 BondingGKD on mounting foam
- 3.3 Sealing
Any workachinaetsya a training set of necessary tools and acquiring the necessary materials.
Materials and tools
A. Tools needed:
- Knife for cutting gypsum board.
- Construction level, plumb line, marking cord, tape measure, long ruler or rule, pencil or marker - for preliminary marking and maintaining a constant control over the verticality of the surface during the installation of sheets.
- Rubber and conventional hammer.
- Spatula or trowel
- Capacity for kneading glue.
- Screwdriver, electric drill with a nozzle-mixer.
- Roller on long handle and soft brush.
- Planer for chamfering
B. Materials for work:
- Sheets of plasterboard. Depending on the room can be used conventional - GKL, moisture-resistant GKLV, and if the wall near the stove or fireplace, the fire-resistant GKLO is required. The number of sheets is calculated by taking into account the area of the walls of the premises with the deduction of the areas of window and door openings from it, and making a reserve of about 15%.
The number of sheets of drywall will help quickly and accurately calculate the calculator below.
Calculator for calculating the required amount of drywall
- Adhesive composition on cement or gypsum basis. Depending on the specific conditions, polyurethane mastic or foam may also be used.
- Primer for wall pretreatment. The specific type of primer, its consumption depends on the material and the quality of the surface of the walls. For detailed information, refer to the manufacturer's instructions.
- Screws or dowels - "fungi" - depending on the surface on which the sheets will be fastened.
Surface preparation
Wall cleaning and sealing of flaws
To ensure that the gypsum boards fit well against the wall, and in the still remaining gaps between them, there are no mold or fungus colonies, the surfaces must be carefully prepared. Do not neglect these activities, because they depend on the life of the finish and the integrity of the base.
- If there is old plaster on the wall, which has peeled off in places, then it should be removed completely or partially, in places of defects, as it will reduce the adhesion of materials among themselves.
In the presence of a thick plaster "coat" consisting of several layers applied at different times, it is recommended to remove it completely. At any time, it can begin to lag behind the base, and with it the sheets of plasterboard also go away.
A thin, high-quality plaster layer will not interfere with the installation of the GCR, so it can not be removed.
- After cleaning the walls of the old plaster, cracks or "shells" may appear on the surface. They need to be sealed, otherwise condensation may collect there, which will promote the development of mold.
Cracks must first be expanded. This is done to ensure that the seal material is more securely held inside. Extended cracks and shells must be well cleaned of fine particles of sand and plaster with a soft brush, and then abundantly treated with a primer.
- To fill the flaws of the surface, it is recommended to choose a repair composition close to the base material, or one that will have a high adhesion to it. If the cracks are wide enough and pass through a large part of the surface, they can be filled with a mounting foam.
Clearances of a small width can be filled with a sealant that is plastic and will take the form of a crack as it expands or contracts.
- After the primer has dried, all imperfections are completely filled with the maximum density by the repair composition and are taken out to the common plane of the wall. If there are protruding protrusions on the surface, they are simply knocked down or scraped to a general level.
Further, all walls should be primed with an antiseptic composition of deep penetration.
Which primer is suitable for interior work?
The durability of the finishing of the walls largely depends on the quality of the applied soil. How to choose the right primer for walls for wallpaper or for a different type of finishing - in a special publication of our portal.
This material is applied on the surface in one or two layers, each of which must dry well. The process is carried out with a soft roller, and the inner corners and hard-to-reach places are additionally treated with a brush.
The time for complete drying of the primer is indicated on the package of the composition, and it should be adhered to, since the installation of drywall should only be carried out on a dry and clean wall.
Layout of surfaces
After the walls have been primed and dried, markings should be dealt with. To do this, it is best to use the laser level, but if it is not, then you can do with a standard set - a plumb line, the usual building level, a long ruler( rule), a tape measure and a square.
- When marking the wall, you need to take into account the deformation gaps, which must necessarily remain at the junction of plasterboard with floor and ceiling. When shrinking the house, they will not allow the sheets to damage the harder surfaces.
The gaps should be between the sheets of finishing material and the ceiling of 3 ÷ 5 mm, and from the floor GKL raise by 8 ÷ 10 mm. From above, the control horizontal line is repulsed for this, and on the floor, these gaps can be more easily observed by placing pieces of plywood of the required thickness under the GKL.Later, after setting the glue and securely fixing the sheets, these supports are removed, and the gaps on top and bottom of the canvas are filled with mounting foam.
- If a sheet of drywall does not completely cover the height of the wall, then in this case, you have to repel two lines - the height of the whole sheet and the top of the wall. This section will be closed with a fragment of the correct size cut off from the whole canvas. These elements can complement the entire sheets only from the top, but many master professionals recommend to carry them in a "checkerboard pattern", that is alternately top and bottom.
The angles in the rooms are not always even, so with the help of a plumb, the vertical line along the junction of the two walls is measured and accurately repulsed. It is necessary to install and fix the first sheet on it, so that it stands perfectly even. From how it will be exposed and fixed, the evenness of the whole series depends.
Which glue should I use?
Installation of drywall sheets on a wall without a frame is carried out on different in the degree of smoothness of the surface. Therefore, various adhesive compositions can be used for work.
Three basic variants can be distinguished:
- mounting on a flat wall;
- fastening to a brick surface;
- gluing to the wall with large irregularities.
Adhesive for a flat surface
Plain concrete surfaces include concrete monolithic and stone plastered walls. Of course, they do not always have perfect smoothness, but usually do not require serious corrections in the form of alignment. It may be necessary to set up beacons from gypsum board or gypsum mixture if a slight incline in one or the other side is found on the surface.
On smooth or corrected wall, gypsum cardboard is glued to any glue - this can be a composition on a gypsum or cement base, as well as polymer mastic or foam. However, the easiest and fastest option for mounting will be gluing the canvas on the mounting foam.
If the surface is completely smooth and smooth, you can also use glue, made in the form of mastic, which is sold in special plastic tube cartridges and squeezed out with a construction syringe or gun.
Cement or gypsum-based adhesives are produced in dry form and require dilution with water immediately before the installation process. The proportions of their dilution are indicated on the package, and they need to be clearly followed. If such a cement or gypsum composition is used, it is recommended to lightly sprinkle its surface from the spray gun before installing the cloth to the wall.
Features of mounting on a brick wall
You should evenify the drywall with brick walls. If the brickwork is high-quality and smooth, the installation of the GKL on it is slightly different from fixing it to a flat surface. But anyway, this wall assumes the presence of certain defects in the form of swings and seams between the bricks. This indicates that the glue on its surface will be distributed unevenly, which means that the gypsum board can be fixed unreliable. In this case, the preparation of the brick surface is carried out as follows:
- The verticality of the wall is determined by means of a plumb line. If there are differences that are more than 20 mm, it is necessary to make substrates from gypsum board stripes - their width should be 100 ÷ 120 mm. Straight bands can be fixed vertically from floor to ceiling or parallel to these surfaces, depending on where irregularities are found. These pieces of drywall will become "beacons" for fixing large canvases.
- drywall sheets Sometimes rectangular fragments cut from the same drywall are used instead of even stripes - their size may be approximately 100 × 150 mm. They are glued to the wall at a distance of 150 ÷ 250 mm from each other, depending on the need.
Aligning sheets with a brick wall, you can apply any glue, but the most economical and reliable option is the use of the composition on a gypsum or cement basis. If you use a polymer mastic or a mounting foam, these materials will require too much, and not the fact that the canvases will be fastened securely.
It is necessary to take into account one more thing - the material from which the brick is made. If the masonry is made of red brick or foam concrete blocks, then any glue can be used - good adhesion will be ensured. Slag blocks and silicate material require a special approach, since they do not have a sufficiently high adhesion to certain compositions and they have to be strengthened. Ready-made glue dry mixtures seem to be considered universal, but this is not always confirmed in practice, so many masters modernize them by adding additional components. For example, for 0.5 kg of cement-based composition, 0.5 l of PVA and 1 kg of gypsum can be added, and only 0.5 l of PVA glue is added to the mixture on a gypsum basis for 10 kg.
In any case, drywall, fixed on a brick wall with glue, it is recommended to fix dowels with "fungi".
Mounting on uneven surface
In this case, it will be optimal to use the adhesive produced in dry mixes, as it will require a sufficiently large amount. Mounting on the surface with large differences is similar to fixing the sheets on the brickwork. Only in some areas of the wall, instead of a single layer of a substrate-rectangle of drywall paste two, or even more. This alignment method will take more time, as each of the substrate layers must completely dry before the next one is glued on.
Curved walls need very reliable fixing of the canvas to the surface with dowels and a dense filling of the space between the wall and plasterboard, especially along the edges.
When using wall substrates for leveling the walls, they can be fixed to the wall with a mounting foam, and for gluing the main cloths, already apply glue, mixed from dry compositions.
Installation of plasterboard without a frame
Techniques for applying different types of glue on sheets of plasterboard are different.
Mounting on dry construction mortar adhesive
The most common material for fixing drywall on the wall is a gypsum-based adhesive. Often used and cement. But both the first and the second are applied to the canvas by one principle.
- At the edges of the underside of the sheets, the glue is superimposed with long dotted or solid strips, since it is necessary that, when pressed against the wall, the composition completely fills the gap between the base and the finishing material. On the main plane of the sheet, the glue is applied pointwise, with slides, with a pitch of 200-300 mm.
. If the surface of the wall is perfectly flat, the glue along the edges is also applied with strips, and the points from the glue measuring 120 ÷ 150 mm in diameter are superimposed only on the middle part of the sheet.
To ensure that the sheet is securely fastened to the wall, the total area applied to the surface of the adhesive web should be at least 10% of the total sheet size.
- Apply glue to the gypsum board, the sheet is placed on plywood or old ceramic tiles prepared for it on the floor, 8 ÷ 10 mm thick.
- After pressing the canvas against the wall, it is followed by a rule, gently tapping it on the front surface so that the glue spreads evenly between the two surfaces, and the GCR stands upright vertically.
- Then the sheet needs to be checked using the building level, and, after finding the slope in one or the other direction, make the appropriate adjustments. This will be possible within 8 ÷ 10 minutes after gluing.
- Fixation with "fungi" -Dubels is carried out only after the glue has dried under the leveled sheet, otherwise it can again break its evenness by pressing it too much.
- In the same way, all integral webs are glued, and then they go on to installing the missing fragments.
Before installing a narrow piece of gypsum board on top of the sheet, the edges at their joint should be cut at an angle - to remove the chamfer to form a gap that will be filled with putty.
You can cut edges with a knife for cutting gypsum board or plane. Ruban handle the edge of the material before it is mounted on the wall, and the knife can be cut already glued canvas.
- wall. It is not necessary to apply glue to the gypsum board - if it is more convenient to do this directly on the wall, then it is possible to glue in this way. There is no fundamental difference in the processes, but the wall in this case must necessarily be prepared with a primer.
Mounting on synthetic compounds
The second variant of installation - using synthetic compounds, can be carried out in two ways:
- Foam or mastic is applied directly to the sheet of plasterboard.
- Foam fills the space between the wall and the installed and aligned sheet.
GKG bonding to mounting foam
This option is used when installing GCR on a wall, which does not require special adjustment.
Foam on the surface of the canvas is applied more economically than the glue made from a dry mix. It is enough to foil the strip around the perimeter of the sheet and cross or diagonally in its middle. After the composition is applied, the sheet is immediately glued to the wall. Since the foam has good adhesion to any, both with a smooth and porous surface, it will quickly grasp, and in a day the sheet can no longer be torn off the wall.
In the same way, all material is fixed to the wall and left to dry for 24 hours.
If it is decided to use polyurethane mastic for gluing, then it is applied to the sheet with more frequent strips and necessarily on all edges. Inside the sheet, the glue can be applied with different "patterns", the main thing is that the lines pass at a distance of 150 ÷ 200 mm from each other. In this case, when pressing the sheet against a flat surface of the wall, the glue will be evenly distributed between them.
Drying and complete polymerization of each of the compositions take place in different ways, therefore acquiring mastic, this criterion should be immediately noticed.
If small pieces of plasterboard are glued to the wall, then it is sufficient to apply mastic only at their edges.
Video: installation of gypsum cardboard wall covering on mounting foam
Bonding GKL with subsequent filling of voids
This method of installation is more laborious in execution, but it gives good result when leveling a not very flat surface. At once it is necessary to note, that at its application can be used only assembly foam, and in enough large amount. The expense will depend on how much the wall is curved, that is, how large cavities remain between it and the GCR.
For installation in a similar way, some auxiliary materials will be required, which must be purchased in advance, and some of them can be found in the household too.
So, the work is as follows:
- The plasterboard sheet is installed to the wall according to the pre-made markings. Straight through the GCR in the surface of the wall drill holes - they should be 10 ÷ 12 pieces, evenly distributed throughout the sheet.
Further, the sheet from the wall is removed, the holes in the wall slightly widen and plastic dowels are gently punched in them.
- The next stage on the back surface of the plasterboard cloth on the double-sided adhesive tape are pieces of foam rubber. They should be located 120 ÷ 150 mm from the drilled holes. These inserts will be used as a spring-loaded regulator, which will help to properly position the canvas.
- are then screwed in. Next, a sheet is added to the wall, which now needs to be fixed with screws with wide ones. If there are none, then the usual fasteners pre-put on the washers. Self-tapping screws need to be selected to the desired length, as they will be adjusted by setting the sheet. They screw it through the finished holes into the wall plugs driven into the wall, so the sheet is maximally pulled to the wall.
By checking the surface with a building level, it is adjusted by loosening or tightening the screws, achieving the desired vertical position.
In the same way all sheets are exposed and adjusted to each other.
- The next step in the gypsum board liners, between the screwed screws are drilled through holes with a diameter of 7 ÷ 8 mm. They are designed to pump through the mounting foam through the gap between the wall and the GCR.The injection takes place using a special construction pistol, on which cylinders with foam are installed.
Before filling the gaps, it is necessary to adjust the dosage of the foam output from the cylinder in order to use it as economically as possible. It is usually adjusted so that when one pressing the gun a spot with a diameter of 120 ÷ 150 mm is formed. This is important to do in advance because the gluing of the canvas to the wall will be carried out blindly.
- gun. When the foam hardens and the sheets are firmly fixed to the wall, the screws can be unscrewed, if desired, or even better - drown them 1 to 2 mm in plasterboard, and top with putty.
Sealing
After the installation and final drying of the adhesive have been completed, they begin to seal the seams.
The work is carried out in the following order:
- The joints between the sheets are carefully primed. The primer on the surface must be completely dry. Usually on those edges of the sheets, where the chamfer was cut by hand, it is necessary to carry out priming several times so that the cut does not begin to crumble when sealing joints.
- Next, along all joints with a spatula, the putty is applied carefully.
- A mesh serpulk or a sealing tape is glued to the uneven, leveled filler and is slightly added to the composition.
- solution After the joints have dried, they pass to the primer and puttying of the entire surface of the gypsum board wall.
How to finally level the walls with putty?
The process of bringing the walls to an ideal smoothness and smoothness with a putty - is not so simple. We recommend that you first become acquainted with the rules putty walls by yourself , set out in a separate publication of our portal.
After acquaintance with the basics of the technology, it is recommended to try all this in almost a limited area of the wall. If everything goes smoothly, then we can boldly take up large-scale work on finishing the room.