Two-level ceiling from plasterboard with own hands

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  • 1 A bit about plasterboard
    • 1.1 How is plasterboard?
    • 1.2 Types of plasterboard
  • 2 Profiles and fasteners for gypsum board systems
    • 2.1 Fasteners for gypsum board systems
      • 2.1.1 Elements for fastening skeletons to load-bearing bases
      • 2.1.2 Elements for fixing the GKL to the frame
      • 2.1.3 Video: Screws for gypsum board and profile
  • 3 Tool for working with gypsum board systems
    • 3.1 Video: Gypsum cardboard tool
  • 4 Safety rules and protection when working with plasterboard
  • 5 Cnmounting events for metal frame profiles
    • 5.1 Fastening of guide profiles to load-bearing building structures
    • 5.2 Fastening of guide and bearing profiles
      • 5.2.1 Fastening with self-tapping screws
      • 5.2.2 Fastening with a cutter
    • 5.3 Attachment of load-bearing profiles to building structures
      • 5.3.1 Fastening with direct suspension
      • 5.3.2 Fastening with anchor suspension
      • 5.3.3 Alternative ways of fastening load-bearing profiles
    • 5.4 Connection of load-bearing profiles to each other
      • 5.4.1 Extension of profiles PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27
        • 5.4.1.1 Application of extension rails PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27
        • 5.4.1.2 Alternative ways of extending profilesPP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27
      • 5.4.2 Video: Extension of profiles
      • 5.4.3 Connection of profiles PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27 at an angle in one level
        • 5.4.3.1 Connection with the help of "Crab"
        • 5.4.3.2 Video: Connection of "Crab" profiles
        • 5.4.3.3 Alternative ways of connecting profiles
  • 6 Arrangement of a two-level gypsum board ceiling
    • 6.1 Definition of a ceiling design
    • 6.2 At what stage of repair or construction is a two-level ceiling made?
    • 6.3 Preparatory work for
      • 6.3.1 Room measurement, layout of the
      • 6.3.2 Determination of the ceiling level, revision of its surface
    • 6.4 Selection of the two-level ceiling layout
      • 6.4.1 The first level is the plastered ceiling
        • 6.4.1.1 Option 1: Without eaves for lighting
        • 6.4.1.2 Option 2: With cornice for lighting
      • 6.4.2 First level - plasterboard ceiling
        • 6.4.2.1 Option 3: Fastening the second level of the ceiling to the first
        • 6.4.2.2 VariaNr 4: First level gypsum ceiling fasteners to the second
    • 6.5 Drafting of the gypsum plasterboard ceiling
    • 6.6 Ceiling marking
    • 6.7 Installation of the two-level gypsum board ceiling
      • 6.7.1 Example 1: Gypsum board in the kitchen
      • 6.7.2 Example 2:Installation of a two-level ceiling with backlight
      • 6.7.3 Video: Secrets of craftsmanship when working with plasterboard and profile
      • 6.7.4 Video: Example of installing a two-level ceiling
      • 6.7.5 Video: Two-level ceiling of gIpsoparton in the kitchen
      • 6.7.6 Video: Installation of a multi-level ceiling, part 1
  • 7 Conclusion

Contents of the article

The ceiling is the most visible part of the interior of any room. If all the disadvantages of covering the floor and walls can be hidden by furniture, carpets, tapestries and other objects, then the ceiling is always in sight. That is why when planning repairs, they pay great attention to it. The era of simple leveling of the ceiling with plaster and putty mixes has long passed, now more sophisticated designs that give a unique look to the room, create a comfortable zonal illumination, beat all the strengths and hide the flaws in the interior. And it may seem to many that creating such a ceiling is a matter for professionals of the highest level. The task of this article is to debunk this myth and convince the reader that a two-level ceiling made of drywall can be made by any normal owner.

Two-level ceiling from plasterboard with own hands

Two-level plasterboard ceiling with own hands

A bit about

drywall Many people mistakenly believe that gypsum cardboard in our country appeared in the early 90s of the XXth century, when western building materials became available and "poured" onto the Russian market. Few people know that invented and patented plasterboard was back in the XIX century, and large-scale industrial production was established in 1917.Skeptics can argue that during the Soviet era nothing was known about drywall, but stubborn facts speak of another - this material was successfully used by Soviet builders, although it was called in another way - dry plaster. It was not available to everyone and was not used in civil construction, so this is a wrong judgment.

Evidence of the existence of drywall in the era of the decline of Stalinism. The Book of 1953

Evidence of the existence of drywall in the era of the decline of Stalinism. Book of 1953

But now everything has changed and drywall can be bought by everyone, it is in any construction shop. Moreover, the whole assortment of components is attached to it: profiles, connecting elements, fasteners, materials for sealing joints and much more. But the main thing is that in the open access are all technologies for working with plasterboard, manufacturers do not hide it at all. And do not necessarily go to the "super" specialists. It may be better to figure out for yourself and make sure that in this, in principle, nothing is complicated. The main thing is to follow the recommendations, which are based on the experience of many decades. But, let's talk about everything in order.

How does the drywall work?

The very name of this unique building material hides its structure. The basis of this building material is a gypsum cloth of rectangular size, which is pasted on all sides with facing cardboard.

On the ends of gypsum boards you can see its components

On the ends of gypsum boards you can see its components

Gypsum is a natural mineral that has a number of unique and useful qualities:

  • The pH level of gypsum is very close to the human body.
  • Manufacture of gypsum-based products does not cause harm to the environment.
  • Gypsum is a non-combustible material.
  • Products from gypsum contribute to maintaining a normal level of humidity, as they say in everyday life, this material is able to "breathe".

The main disadvantages of gypsum, which limits the use of building materials based on it - is insufficient moisture resistance and brittleness. Therefore, standard plasterboard is not used outside the premises, and in rooms with high humidity use only special sheets that have a special marking.

Types of drywall

Drywall sheets, depending on the place of their application and the availability of the required properties are of different nomenclature. About what are drywall sheets, described in the following table. At the same time, as an example, the nomenclature of the leading manufacturer of building materials - the world-famous company Knauf is shown.

Image Name cardboard color marking color Application
GKL Plasterboard normal( GCR ) Gray Blue for interior decoration with normal and dry humidity conditions
GKLV Plasterboard moistureproof( gypsum plasterboard ) Green Blue Sheetshave a lowered( no more than 10%) water absorption. Are applied in premises with dry, normal, wet and wet modes of humidity
GKLO Drywall with increased resistance to open fire( GKLO ) Gray or pink Red Possess greater resistance to fire. They are used in fire hazardous areas
GKLVO Moisture resistant plasterboard with increased resistance to open flame( GKLVO ) Green Red Combines the properties of GKLV and GKLO.It is used in fire hazardous premises with high humidity

From the table it can be concluded that the use of these or other drywall sheets determines the humidity regime in the premises, as well as the level of fire hazard. The following table shows the humidity conditions of buildings depending on the air temperature.

Modes of humidity of premises

Modes of room humidity

Knauf engineers have developed recommendations for the use of various types of plasterboard sheets, depending on the purpose of the premises.

Recommendations for the application of GCR

Recommendations for the use of GKL

Gypsum boards are rectangular sheets that have different sizes of thickness, width and length. The main geometric dimensions, as well as the weight of 1 m2 of the sheet are shown in the following table.

Sizes of plasterboard sheets

Typical sizes of gypsum boards

Gypsum boards with 2500 mm in length and 1200 mm in width are found on the market most often. The other sizes are usually made by the manufacturer on request. In addition to geometric dimensions, gypsum boards have one more important indicator - the side edge look. If the end edges are simply a straight-cut sheet with a bare gypsum core, the side edges may have a different profile for the convenience of the joint device, and they are pasted with cardboard. Types of edges of plasterboard sheets( GCR) are shown in the table.

Image Edge type Designation Application
PC Straight edge PC / VR Used in double-layer constructions from GCR when no joints of the lower layer are required
CC Dipped edge UK / AK GKL joints are required with reinforcing tape and Knauf type fillers-Fuhen »
PLC Semi-circular from the front edge PLC / HRK Seam sealing without reinforcing tape with Knauf-Uniflot type
PLUK Semi-circular and flattened from the front side PLUK / HRAK Seam sealingKnauf-Fugen "with reinforcing tape, and" Knauf-Uniflot "- without reinforcing tape
ZK Rounded edge ZK / RK Mounting GKL with subsequent plastering

In the decoration of ceiling and wall structures, most commonly GKL with a tapered and semicircular edge(PLK), which allows you to reduce the technological chain of finishing, and this speeds up the process and significantly reduces its price.

Profiles and fasteners for gypsum plasterboard systems

It's natural that gypsum boards themselves are very rarely attached directly to walls and especially to such a responsible design as the ceiling. Frames are assembled for the fastening, and already to them special fastening elements are fastened sheets of gypsum board. At first glance it may seem that the construction of plasterboard structures includes a huge assortment of accessories and fasteners, but in fact everything is much simpler. Let's consider what profiles are used for arranging the skeletons of two-level ceilings.

Image Description, designation, rus / eng Description and function
0 Profile ceiling guide PL 28 * 27 / UD 28 * 27 Made of galvanized steel with a thickness of 0.4, 0.5 or 0.6 mm. The standard length is 3000 or 4000 mm. It is intended for joint use with the profile of PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27 for the arrangement of metal frameworks for ceiling and wall cladding.
1 Ceiling profile PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27 Ceiling profile is the basis for the formation of the metal skeleton of the ceiling from GKL.Can be used for facing GCR walls. It is produced in the thickness of 0,4,0,6 m and the standard length of 3000 and 4000 mm.
2 Profile of the rack-mounted ROP 50 * 40, 75 * 40, 100, 40 / UW 50 * 40, 75 * 40, 100 * 40 It is made of galvanizedsteel thickness 0,4, 0,5, 0,6 mm. The standard length is 3000 or 4000 mm. Used in conjunction with the PS / CW profiles of the appropriate dimensions in the fabrication of the partition frame, but can be used in some particularly critical places in the suspended ceiling design( mainly PN 50 * 40 / UW 50 * 40)
3 Rack profile PS 50 * 50, 75 * 50,100 * 50 / CW 50 * 50, 75 * 50, 100 * 50 The basis for the formation of partitions with the corresponding PN-profiles, but can also be used in ceiling frameworks( PS / CW 50 * 50)

Gypsum plasterboard suspended ceilings can be equipped in rooms where they will be exposed to high humidity or aggressive chemical compounds. That's why the profiles are made of galvanized steel, which is less susceptible to corrosive processes. The thickness is best chosen at 0.6 mm, as these profiles provide better rigidity of the structure. It is allowed to use profiles made of galvanized steel sheet 0,4 or 0,5 mm, but only in those places where it is required, for example, to make short bridges, auxiliary elements and others. Bearing elements of the ceiling should be made only with a profile of 0.6 mm. The length of the profile( 3000 or 4000 mm) is chosen based on the geometry of the room. The main rule - wherever possible, you need to use solid sections of the profile.

Manufacturers of gypsum boards and accessories to them additionally provides the possibility of using as supporting and auxiliary elements of a suspended ceiling wooden bars section of 50 * 30 mm or 50 * 50 mm. In this case, it is necessary to choose coniferous wood with a moisture content of not more than 12%, with all the bars before the installation to be pre-treated with antiseptics and fire retardants. But in creating complex ceilings, especially curved elements, it is best to use metal profiles for the following reasons:

  • The metal profile has an anti-corrosion protection, does not require additional processing.
  • Metal profiles are easily processed with an accessible tool, with the help of them it is easy to create any, even the most complex construction of a multi-level ceiling.
  • Manufacturers of gypsum board systems have developed various technical documentation for the installation of structures with a detailed explanation of each stage and drawings. All this information is in the public domain.
  • Metal profiles are available in any building material store and are sold at a reasonable price.

In addition to profiles in gypsum board systems, other elements are used for mounting and fixing frames to building structures. There are a lot of these elements, but we will only consider what concerns the two-level ceiling from gypsum board in the following table.

Image Designation Purpose and application
Elements for fixing the main and load-bearing profiles to each other
0 Connector profiles of ceiling PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27 single-level( Crab) Made of galvanized steel 0,5-0,9 mm. It is designed for connecting profiles PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27 in one level at a right angle. Overall dimensions: 148 * 148 * 18 mm. The connection is made using self-tapping screws for metal
1 Profile connector PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27 two-level Designed for connecting profiles PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27 in different levels at right angles. It is used mainly in the construction of "floating" ceilings, that is not connected with walls. Overall dimensions 58 * 45 mm, thickness 0.5-0.9 mm are made of galvanized steel. In the two-level ceilings are used rarely
2 Universal single-level profile connector PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27 Allows the T-shaped profiles PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27 both at right angles and at an angle of up to 45 °.It also allows longitudinal joining of profiles with an angle of up to 30 °.Additionally, it can mount to the supporting base. Dimensions 215 * 53 mm, thickness 0.5-0.9 mm. It is used very rarely, because there are a lot of alternative ways of joining profiles
3 Extension of profiles PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27 It is made of galvanized steel with thickness from 0,5 to 0,9 mm. It is used for longitudinal joining of profiles PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27.Extension cord reliably connects two profiles without loss of strength.
Elements for fixing profiles( wooden bars) to the supporting base
4 Suspension straight for profiles PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27 Designed for fastening the profiles of ceiling PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27 to the supporting base: ceiling or walls, using appropriate dowels or anchors. It is made of galvanized steel with thickness from 0,5 to 0,9 mm. Overall dimensions are 60 * 30 * 125 mm. For fixing wooden bars are produced direct suspensions 50 * 30 * 125 mm, but they are used extremely rarely. Carrying capacity of direct suspension - 40 kg
5 Anchorage suspension for profiles PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27 It is made of galvanized steel with a thickness of 0.9 mm. It is intended for fixing the profiles of PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27 to the bearing base - the ceiling, if the distance from it to the profiles exceeds 120 mm. Load bearing capacity 25 kg. It is used in conjunction with a suspension rod
6th Suspension bracket anchor Used in conjunction with an anchor suspension. It is made of galvanized steel wire with a diameter of 3 or 4 mm. Available in various lengths - from 150 to 3000 mm. Mounted through the ear to the ceiling, and the lower part is fixed in the spring plate of the anchor suspension

Actually in the range of manufacturers of gypsum board systems there are also other elements that allow to simplify the installation technology. These are special arched profiles, and various types of connectors, but as practice shows, they are extremely rarely used, they are almost not on sale. Therefore, the authors of this article decided to take care of the readers of our portal and tell only about what is widely used.

Special arched profile, despite the unconditional convenience, still did not find wide application. The high price and sharpness of the installers did their job

Special arched profile, despite the unconditional convenience, still did not find wide application. The high price and the sharpness of the installers did their job

When selecting profiles and connectors, it is necessary to trust only well-known manufacturers and bona fide sellers. Unfortunately, the market is simply awash with cheap fake profiles for gypsum board, as well as other components. In the table, we did not fail to indicate the thickness of the profile, since this indicator indicates the required strength. But on the sale you can see the profiles not only 0.7 mm, but also 0.6, 0.5 and even 0.4 mm, and from the appearance of an inexperienced consumer can not distinguish between a dirty trick. Moreover, sometimes counterfeit products look more advantageous. That's why it's worth buying accessories for gypsum board systems of only well-known manufacturers, whose leader is the company Knauf. It would be superfluous to invite a specialist who will help to make the right choice. Of course, the original profiles are more expensive than others, but the reliability of the drywall ceiling will be on top.

Fasteners for gypsum board systems

In order to assemble a metal or wooden frame for a gypsum cardboard ceiling, and also fix GKL, there are special fasteners. Usually, in markets and in stores, along with profiles and plasterboard, sales consultants will always advise the necessary hardware, but still the future owner of a two-level ceiling from gypsum board will want to know what kind of fasteners need to be used.

First of all, it should be noted that almost all elements must have anti-corrosion treatment. Most often, fasteners have a phosphated coating followed by oiling or an electro-galvanized coating. This allows to avoid corrosion, and also allows to produce coloring, putty without preliminary preparation. Experienced installers of gypsum board probably remember the times when they had to pre-paint the hats of conventional screws so that rust stains no longer appear. Now, fortunately, all fixing elements for GCL, available for sale, have the necessary coating and do not require special preparation for final finishing.

Elements for fastening skeletons to load-bearing bases

Let's first consider fasteners used to fasten frames to load-bearing bases and connect metal parts to each other.

0 LN9, LN11( length 9 or 11 mm), slot type PH2 For connecting metal frame parts with each other without pre-drilling for profile thicknesses up to 0.7 mm
1 Self-tapping screw with drilling end TN9, TN11( length 9 or 11 mm), slot PH2 For joining metal parts with a profile thickness of 0.7 to 2.2 mm without pre-drilling
2 Hollow for hollow structures MOLLY, with a diameter of 11 mm - length 49-77 mm, with a diameter of 13 mm - length 51-79 mm, slot PH2 For fixing the profile PN / CW, PN / UW and attachments to sheet or hollow structures
3 Nylon plug NAT, diameter 6, 8, 10, 12, 14 mm, length 30, 40, 50, 60, 70 mm For fixing the guide profiles of the PN 28 * 27 / UD 8 * 27 to the solid wall structures
4 The dowel is a multifunctional nylon YLT,diameter 6 mm, length 35, 40, 50, 70 mm, diameter 8 mm, length 80 mm For fixing the profile of the PN 28 * 27 / UD28 * 27 to both solid and hollow wall structures
5 Anchor plastic anchor( dowel-nail) LYT, PDG, PDGN, diameter 6, 8 mm, length 80 mm For fixing the profiles of the monolith 28 * 27 / UD 28 * 27 to the bearing building structures. It is also used for fixing straight hangers to the ceiling
6th Anchor bolt metal( metal nail anchor) ZN, diameter 6 mm, length 40 or 49 mm For fastening of straight and anchor suspensions to load-bearing structures
7th Hollow for hollow structures with drill bit DRA, diameter 13-15 mm, length 28 mm For attachment of attachments to GCR.Does not require pre-drilling. It is used in conjunction with a 4-5 mm diameter screw
8 An anchor for hollow structures without a drill tip DRIVA, diameter 13-15 mm, length 23 mm Function as DRA.Requires pre-drilling
eleven Sealing band for metal profiles KNAUF-Dichtungsband, width 30, 50, 70, 95 mm, thickness 3 mm, in one roll 30 m For tight joining of metal profiles and hangers with load-bearing building structures,sound insulation

A few words should be said about the advisability of using a sealing tape, because you can honestly say that in most cases it is not used, referring to uselessness. And very vain. What is this ribbon for?

  • It is almost impossible to find a perfectly flat surface of the walls, so that the guide profile of the PN 28 * 27 / UD 28 * 27 without gaps would lie against the wall all along its length. The tape allows you to compensate for small irregularities and ensure a tight attachment of the profile to the supporting structures.
  • The tighter fit and the material of the tape itself provide increased friction, which increases the mechanical strength of the connection.
  • The tape provides shock-sound insulation of the metal frame from walls and ceiling. In building structures, especially in reinforced concrete, acoustic waves from various sources propagate very well: drilling and grooving, loud music, movement and falling of heavy objects, steps, temperature deformations and others. If the structure of the frame gets into resonance with these acoustic waves, then it is fraught with the appearance of cracks in the ceiling finish, and sometimes the destruction of the frame. Sealing tape reduces such harmful effects on the frame and GCR.

Techniques for the production of works, recommended materials used together with tests for various types of loads and impacts are developed by the teams of high-class engineers of the manufacturer. Do not trust them, and separate assemblers does not make any sense. Arguments like - "I've done so a hundred times" - still have to give way to technical documentation. Only in this case, we can hope that the ceiling design will last a long time.

Elements for fastening the GKL to the frame

It's time to consider the elements used in fixing gypsum boards to a metal( wooden) frame. Traditionally, we will present them in the most understandable tabular form.

Image Designation Designation, dimensions Purpose
0 Self-tapping screw with countersunk head and sharp end TN, standard lengths: 25, 35, 45, 55, 65, 75 mm. Slot PH2 For fixing gypsum boards to metal frames( with frequent threads) or to wooden( with wide thread).Profile thickness up to 0,7 mm. They are made of steel, have a phosphated coating
1 Self-tapping screw with countersunk head and drilling end TB, standard lengths: 25, 35, 45, 55, 65, 75 mm. Slot PH2 For fixing GCR to metal frames with a profile thickness of 0.7 to 2.2 mm. Do not require pre-drilling. Have a phosphated or electro-zinc coating

In order for the fastening to be reliable it is necessary to choose the correct length of the screw. The manufacturer recommends using the following procedure:

0 Pipe water level( spirit level).Length 5-10 m( depending on room size) For marking horizontal lines. The application is mandatory.
1 Construction bubble level. Length from 0,4 to 2 m( it is desirable to have several different sizes) For marking and control of the horizontal and vertical. For the installation of metal frames it is desirable to have magnetic clips at the level. The application is mandatory.
2 Drawing line( padded, paint) with a reserve of coloring powder For marking straight lines( horizontal and vertical) on walls and ceiling. The use is very desirable, since the cord greatly simplifies the layout of the
3 Roulette 5 or 10 meter For measuring and marking rooms, GCR and metal profiles.
4 Screw metal For marking metal profiles. Application is desirable.
5 Construction pencils and markers For marking of building structures, GCR and profiles. Required for use
6th Construction angle For marking and mounting profiles and GCR.Application mandatory
7th Construction rule( it is desirable to have different sizes of 1500 mm and 2500 mm) For marking, cutting GCR, checking the correct installation. Application required
8 Level laser( level) with a builder of horizontal and vertical planes. Preferably with a fixing device on magnets For marking and checking the correct installation. Application is very desirable, especially for large amounts of work. In good construction stores,
I is rented. Screwdriver, network or rechargeable . For assembling skeletons and GKL plating. The screwdriver must have a torque limiter, smooth running, instant brake, light weight. Preferred network screwdrivers, as they have compact dimensions and light weight. Application mandatory
10 Nozzles( bits) for screwdriver with slot PH2. For mounting skeletons and plating their GCR.It is preferable to select bits with a depth stop so that the self-tapping screws do not break through the GCR through the
eleven . The network puncher with a set of 6, 8, 10, 12 mm diameter drill bits. For mounting rail profiles and hangers to walls and ceilings. The main criterion of choice is an easy and convenient tool, since many works will be performed at altitude. Application mandatory
12 Electric network drill with a set of metal drills and crowns of various diameters For pre-drilling holes in a metal or wooden frame, as well as in GKL for the installation of dowels, luminaires and other elements. The drill must have variable speed, reverse, be easy and convenient.
13 Angle grinder( USM, Bulgarian) with cutting disc for metal For cutting metal profiles. Best of all, the ESM is suitable for 115 or 125 mm discs. Application is desirable
14 Electric jigsaw with saw blade for wood For cutting wooden frame elements. It is possible to cut the plasterboard along a curve. Application is desirable, but not necessary
15 Electroscissors for metal For cutting metal profiles in a large volume. Application optional
16 Hand scissors for metal( straight, right or left) For cutting metal profiles. Application mandatory
17th Combination pliers For working with a metal skeleton of a ceiling. Application required
18 Screwdriver set of different lengths with slot PH2 For working with a frame in hard-to-reach screwdrivers and screwing TN or TB screws to the required depth. Application required
19 Knife construction segment with a set of replaceable blades 18 mm wide For straight cutting GCR, cutting edges, chamfering. The knife should have a metal clip and a reliable screw lock. Application is mandatory
20 Knife-saw on gypsum board For curved cut GKL.Application required
21 Drywall for drywall For edge preparation, chamfering. Application is mandatory
22 Hammer 200-300 g joiner For working with a metal profile, clogging dowels. Application mandatory
23 Insulator for gypsum board profiles For fastening metal parts of the frame to each other without the use of self-tapping screws. Application is desirable, but not necessary
24 Mounting belt for the tool For positioning the tool and fasteners on the belt, which is very convenient when working at height using a ladder or platform
Image Tool name Purpose and description
  • For a single-layer GKL plating on a wooden frame, it should be assumed that the length of the screw should exceed the sheet thickness by at least 20 mm. For example, a wooden frame is covered with a GKLV with a thickness of 12.5 mm .Accordingly, the length of the screw must be at least 12.5 + 20 = 32.5 mm .The closest size is the TN35 with a wide thread for wood.
  • For a double-skinned GKL cladding on a wooden frame, the self-cut length should exceed the total cladding size by the same 20 mm. For example, a wooden frame is covered with two layers of GKVV according to 12.5 mm each, therefore, the sampling length is not less than 12.5 + 12, 5 + 20 = 45 .Suitable TN45 with wide thread.
  • For the single-layer plating of the metal frame, in addition to the thickness of the GCR, the thickness of the profile( or profiles) is also taken into account. The screw must exceed the total thickness by 10 mm. For example, a metal frame with a thickness of 0.6 mm is clad with GKVV 12.5 mm .Hence the length of the TN self-tap should be 12.5 + 0.6 + 10 = 23.1 mm .The TN25 is best suited.
  • For a two-layer GKL plating on a metal frame, the total thickness of the skin, the thickness of the profile, is taken into account. The length of the screw must also exceed 10 mm. For example, a two-layer casing made of GKLV according to 12,5 mm on reinforced metal frame thickness 0,9 mm .In this case, the self-tapping length must be at least 12.5 + 12.5 + 0.9 + 10 = 35.9 mm .Since a reinforced profile with a thickness greater than 0.7 mm is used, TB ( with a drill bit) and length should be used.
Video: Screws for gypsum board and profile

Tool for working with gypsum board systems

For the assembly of frames, fixing them to the bearing structures of walls and ceilings, GKL skin, a certain tool set is required. The presence of some is mandatory, and others are very desirable, and the third is designed to facilitate the technological process with large amounts of installation work, so they are used by professionals and are very rarely in the arsenal of the average home master. Let's list the set of tools, we will indicate the purpose, mandatory or desirability of the application. All these data the team of authors of the article decided to bring to the table, which is very convenient for readers of our portal.

Video: Drywall tool

Safety rules and protection when working with plasterboard

When working with gypsum board structures, a lot of different tools are used - electric and manual, various kinds of building materials, primers and paints are used. Work with the ceiling is done at a height that does not exclude the fall. All of the above requires you to follow simple but necessary safety rules.

  • All power tools must have good power cords, without damaging the insulation. Any twists and tape wrapped around the tape are not allowed. The tool bodies must be free of cracks, dents, and the ventilation holes must not be closed.
  • If extension cords are used, they must also be completely intact. The plugs of the power tool must fit tightly into the electrical connectors of the extension cord.
  • In rooms where the humidity level is more than 80%, the power tool is inadmissible.
  • The power tool can only be released from the hand after it has been completely stopped. Especially it concerns the USM( Bulgarians).After use, always unplug the cord from the outlet.
  • On working with gypsum cardboard should be tight clothing, without sticking details. It is best if you use a special working overall. Long hair should be picked up under the headdress: takes or kerchief. Example of good working clothes
  • Hands must be protected with special gloves. Despite some loss of tactile sensitivity, it is necessary to develop a good habit - to always work in gloves. The sharp edges of the cut profiles are able to cut through the hands to the bone.
  • Drilling and drilling of walls and ceilings, fitting, drilling and grinding of GCR produces a large amount of cement and gypsum dust that can get into the eyes and respiratory system. Therefore, it is necessary to use protective equipment: glasses and a respirator.
  • When working at height, use only special building steps and scaffolds. The use of kitchen stools, tables and other items is unacceptable.
The construction platform will greatly facilitate work with the ceiling

The construction platform will greatly facilitate the work with the

  • ceiling. There should not be any strangers in the work area, especially children and pets.
  • The covering of the ceiling construction with plasterboard should only be carried out with a partner.

To protect the instrument, it must be cleaned after use with a soft brush from dust, never wipe it with a wet cloth or wash it with water( except for spatulas and brushes).If the tool is not needed at the work site, it must be packed in cases and, if possible, removed from the premises.

Methods for mounting metal framework profiles

The success of installing a drywall ceiling largely depends on how well the frame is assembled. It is a kind of "skeleton" on which the entire structure is fixed, so when assembling it, you must follow all those recommendations of the manufacturer. Recommendations for the selection of components and fasteners, we have given readers of our portal before, and the methods of connection will be discussed in this section. In addition, the authors of the article, in addition to the methods recommended by manufacturers, will give an example of alternative methods that do not reduce the strength of the structure, but can greatly reduce the cost of the finished ceiling.

Fastening of guide profiles to load-bearing building structures

As it was said before, as the guiding profiles in ceiling systems, the most commonly used are 28 * 27 / UD 28 * 27 monitors and, in some cases, the use of a 50 * 40 / UW PN profile50 * 40.These profiles can be fixed both to the walls - with the help of a suitable dowel, and to the ceiling - with anchors( dowel nails).The step of fixing to the flat bases of the walls is not more than 400 mm, and to the ceiling - 250 mm. It is better not to regret a penny dowel and fasten to the walls, too, with a pitch of 250 mm. The profiles of well-known manufacturers already have pre-drilled holes with a diameter of 8 mm in increments of 250 mm, and if they are not, it is better to drill the drill with a suitable drill beforehand. Experienced craftsmen can drill holes in the profile and in the supporting structure at the installation of the profile at once, but for those who make the ceiling from GCR for the first time it is better not to experiment, but to do it correctly.

For fixing the PN-profile to the walls:

  • If there is no hole for the dowels in the profile, they must be drilled with an electric drill with a drill 8 mm. In this case, from the edges of the profile holes should be at a distance of not more than 50 mm, and the pitch between them is 250-400 mm( depending on the evenness of the wall).
  • The profile is applied to the wall by the bottom edge to the previously marked line, the tightness is checked. If necessary, cuts are made in the side walls of the profile, so that the fit is most dense.
  • A sealing tape of the appropriate width is glued onto the end part of the PN-profile.
  • Profile is applied to the wall, combined with the marking line. A hole is drilled that exceeds the length of the dowel by 10 mm at the beginning of the profile, then the dowel is inserted into it, then in the middle, and then at the end. The tightness is checked and these areas are fixed with a screw( dowel-nail).All other sections of the profile are then drilled and fixed.
Mounting the profile of the PN 28 * 27 / UD 28 * 27 to the wall is made by a dowel-nail

Mounting of profile PN 28 * 27 / UD 28 * 27 to the wall is made by dowel-nail

  • An anchor dowel-nail is usually clogged with a sharp part of a hammer. Those who do not have the appropriate skill, it is perfectly permissible to twist the dowel-nail with a screwdriver. The strength of the connection is not affected.

For fixing straight sections of the PN-profile to the reinforced concrete ceiling:

  • Installation is similar to the fastening to the walls, only metal anchor wedges( dowel-nails) are used as fasteners.
  • Practice shows that in most cases in ceiling structures it is acceptable to use plastic anchor plugs with a diameter of 6 mm and a length of 80 mm. If the hole falls on the emptiness in the plate, then you need to use a dowel for hollow structures.
  • The mounting angle on the ceiling must not exceed 250 mm.
  • In case any curvilinear construction on the ceiling or walls is conceived, the curvilinear profile must also be curved according to this curvature. Manufacturers offer in their assortment special profiles for arches and curvilinear structures, but in most cases such elements are difficult to find on sale, and they are unreasonably expensive, which is explained by the more complex manufacturing process. That is why most masters themselves adjust the guiding profile to the desired surface. For this, it is necessary: ​​
  • On the supporting base( ceiling or wall), marking of the future curved surface is done.
  • Scissors for metal or bulgary( USM) cuts the side surfaces and the butt in steps of 3 to 10 cm( depending on the radius of curvature).
  • The profile is then bent and fixed to the supporting base on each bend segment. This takes a lot of fixing elements, this work is quite complicated, but for the desired result it still has to be fulfilled.
Example of fixing a guiding profile on the ceiling to create a curved ceiling plane

An example of fixing a guiding profile on the ceiling to create a curved plane of the

ceiling. In this process, it is important to understand the very principle of forming straight or curved surfaces, then any, even the most daring ideas for creating gypsum board structures will be easily realized.

Mounting of

guiding and supporting profiles From the very name of the guide profile, its purpose is to give direction to the future plane of the gypsum board structure, while the other load-bearing profiles already carry the bulk of the load. In ceiling systems, in most cases this function is performed by the profiles of PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27.If the guide profile of the PN 50 * 40 / UW 50 * 40 is used in especially stressed places, then the PS 50 * 50 / UD 50 * 50 will act as carriers.

Fastening with

self-tapping screws The supporting profile is inserted into the corresponding guide rail and fastened in most cases by the LN9, LN11, TB9, TB11 self-tapping screw. These self-cutters installers call "bedbugs", "fleas", "seeds".The length of the self-tapping is determined by the total thickness of the joined profiles. In most cases, a length of 9 mm is enough( LN9, TB9), but what kind of screws to use - with a drill or sharp tip - disputes among professional installers have not abated for many years. The manufacturer recommends using self-tapping screws with a sharp end at a profile thickness of up to 0.7 mm. In ceiling gypsum plasterboard systems, profiles over this indicator are very rare, so the authors recommend using such screws( LN9, LN11), although in this case TB9 and TB11 are also quite appropriate.

This is how the guide and ceiling profiles are fastened together

This is how the

guiding and ceiling profile is fastened. Very often sales assistants complete the customers with screws with a drilling tip, but based on the experience of plasterboard installers, the authors of the article recommend using LN9, LN11.Why? It is noticed that when screwing the screw with a drilling tip, the probability of its turning at an uncontrolled moment at the screwdriver is much higher. This is because the drill tip makes a much larger diameter hole in the profile metal than the sharp end of LB9, LB11.That's why the cranking will occur at a much smaller torque, which can negatively affect the strength of the carcass structure. In turn, the sharp tip LN9, LN11 pierces the metal and the threads are very tightly "wrapped" in the profile, and tight so that not every torque limiter in the screwdriver will work and the installer can literally turn out his hands. Therefore, before starting the installation work, the limiter should be adjusted, and it is better to do this experimentally.

Guess which connection will be more reliable?

Guess which connection is more reliable?

Screwing screws in a metal profile requires a certain skill. Beginners installers very often screw out of the bits, which is often accompanied by censorship and obscene language. In order to properly screw the screw, it must be positioned strictly perpendicular to the parts being fastened, the drilling must be started at a low speed with a certain pressing force. After the screw has drilled or pierced the metal, the force is reduced, since the thread will already be working and the self-tapping will go "smooth".Usually, after a couple of hours of work and an equal number of fallen screws, the necessary skills are already being developed.

A very important issue is choosing the right bit for a screwdriver. On it it is not necessary to regret money, it is necessary to buy only qualitative products with a corresponding slot PH2 and a magnetic lock. Cheap butneem products from China serve at best one day, and a quality bit can last for more than one year, provided that the torque limiter, which in everyday life is also called a ratchet, is correctly adjusted.

Attachment with the

. There is another very good way of bonding gypsum plasterboard profiles to each other - this is using a cutter. This tool with a punch of hard metal( punch) cuts and bends the walls of the fastened profiles, which provides a fairly strong connection, no less durable than self-tapping screws. Using this method gives certain advantages:

  • The mounting is much faster than with the screws.
  • The use of the cutter provides the necessary mechanical strength of the joint, eliminates such unpleasant phenomena as turning the screws.
  • If a large amount of work is planned, the cutter can pay off at one site due to savings on screws.
  • The cutter leaves a flat surface profile, which facilitates the installation of drywall.
  • Cutters make holes at the same distance from the edges of the profile, so no pre-markings are required.
The cutter facilitates the installation of the frame, but when buying it, you need to make sure that it works with the required profiles

The cutter makes it easy to assemble the frame, but when you buy it, you need to make sure that it works with the correct profiles of

. It's very easy to work with this tool:

  • The profiles are stapled.
  • The handle of the cutter is spread.
  • The work hook is wound between the staple profiles. The punch must be perpendicular to the walls.
  • The tool knobs abruptly come together to a characteristic click.
  • The pens are removed and all operations are repeated at the new location.

There are many types of cutters, different manufacturers, different quality. For one-time work, you can choose an inexpensive model, and if you plan a lot of work on the construction of skeletons, it is better to choose a more professional model, for example, the firm "Knauf" or Stanley. The main thing when choosing is to test it in practice, combining exactly the kinds of profile with which work is planned. To mount the ceiling frame, a lot of work is done at altitude, so it is better to choose a compact model, which will be convenient to work with one hand.

Fastening of load-bearing profiles to

building structures The main bearing profile in gypsum plasterboard ceilings is PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27.To ensure that the weight from the ceiling is distributed to the building structure - the ceiling and partly the walls - the supporting profiles must have reliable fasteners. What are the fixings?

Fastening with direct suspension

The main way to fix the profile of PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27 to the ceiling, if the distance from the plane of the ceiling to the lower plane of the profile does not exceed 120 mm - is the use of a direct suspension, which has already been described. For fastening it is necessary: ​​

  • The position of the suspension is determined on the previously marked axial line of the profile, it is applied to the place in expanded form, fixing points( at least two) are indicated.
  • The distance between adjacent suspensions on one profile should not be more than 50 cm.
  • Drill holes with fasteners are drilled with a perforator with drill 6 mm. The depth should be 10 mm longer than the dowel length or the wedge anchor.
  • A suspension is applied, directly through it an anchor-wedges or dowel nails are inserted into the holes.
  • The hammer is clogged with anchor wedges( dowel nails).
Direct suspension, mounted on anchor wedges

Straight suspension mounted on the anchor wedges

  • The hinges are bent downwards.
  • Profile is set according to the level( laser level, tensioned cord).
  • Through the side holes of the suspension, the profile is fixed with screws LN9, LN11 or LB9, LB11, with two sides on each side.
  • The protruding legs of the suspension are bent upward.
An example of the correct mounting of the ceiling profile for direct suspension. Please note that on each side two TN9 metal screws are wrapped

An example of the correct mounting of the ceiling profile for a direct suspension. Please note that on each side two TN9

metal screws are wrapped. Obviously, the work on mounting the suspension is not difficult, but the authors of the article can not but share with the readers of our portal some at first sight irrelevant trivialities that will help the home master to mountso that during the entire life of the ceiling of gypsum board, none of the suspensions will fail. These councils take into account the many years of experience of installers - professionals in their field.

  • In direct suspension there are several holes for fixing to supporting structures. It is an elongated hole in the center, two holes at a distance of 46 mm and two more at a distance of 78 mm, located just beyond the fold line( they are also called "ears").This is clearly seen in the figure. Opinions about which ones to hold the fasteners are completely different, but experience shows that it is most expedient to fasten precisely for those holes that are located at a distance of 46 mm, since in this case, under vertical loading, the suspension practically does not change its position.
Drawing of direct suspension

Drawing of direct suspension

  • In some hard-to-reach places it is more convenient to attach "behind the ears", but in this case, after bracing to the ceiling, bend the legs under 90 ° and pull them under some force downwards so that all the gaps that inevitably appear under the load of the ceiling,already out.
Fastening by means of an anchor suspension

If the distance from the ceiling plane to the bottom of the profile is more than 120 mm, it is no longer necessary without an anchor suspension, which consists of two parts: the actual suspension itself and a pull rod of the appropriate length. Installation of such a suspension is extremely simple, we describe it step by step.

  • On the previously marked on the ceiling of the axial line of the profile, the marks of fastening the suspensions are made. At the same time, the distance between adjacent suspensions should not be more than 50 cm, and from the wall to the nearest suspension - not more than 25 cm.
  • In the designated places, a hole with a diameter of 6 mm and a depth of 50 mm is drilled in the designated places.
  • To the drilled hole is applied the eye of the suspension rod, through it is inserted a metal dowel nail( anchor-wedge), which is then hammered.
  • The hanger rod bends downward by 90 °, while placing it so that it is on the center line, marked on the ceiling.
  • Anchor suspension is mounted on the rod, for this press on the spring pawls, generate traction, put the suspension in the desired position, and then press the legs. If too long ends of the rod are left, they are simply bent upwards with pliers, leaving the necessary length for adjustment. Too long ends are better to cut off a Bulgarian, and it is better to do it in advance.
  • In the same way, all the suspensions for the supporting profile are mounted.
  • The mounting part of the hangers is inserted into the profile and fixed in it by means of a spring lock or by turning( depending on the suspension design).
  • By compressing the spring pawls and moving the suspension along the draft, the required level is set according to a pre-tensioned cord or laser level. This operation is done for all suspension profiles PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27.
Вся потолочная конструкция "подвешена" на анкерных подвесах, что позволяет скрыть за потолком инженерные коммуникации

The entire ceiling structure is suspended from the anchor suspensions, which makes it possible to conceal the engineering communications behind the ceiling.

. Alternative ways of fixing the

load-bearing profiles. There are occasions when the calculation of the components was incorrectly made for plasterboard ceiling, and the purchased suspensions do not fit in size or they are simply-they ended. Naturally, during work very much I do not want to be distracted by buying suspensions, and available stores can be very far. When assembling a metal frame, there are always a lot of scraps of different profiles, from which it is possible to build a self-made suspension. Let's consider some of the most common options.

  1. Elongation of direct suspension. It is used when the standard length of 120 mm is not enough, and the anchor suspension is not available. In this case, the pins of the direct suspension can be attached by two self-tapping screws on each side of the foot from the other suspension.
  2. Another solution is to insert a piece of ceiling profile PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27 between the suspension and the legs from the other suspension. The ceiling profile plays the role of a kind of extension cable.
Standard straight suspension and elongated with PP profile 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27

Standard straight suspension and elongated with the profile of PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27

  1. In the third method from the profile of 28 * 27 / UD 28 * 27 the corners are made 90 °, which are fixed to the ceiling by one side and the other,longer side, to the mounted profile PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27.Installers of gypsum cardboard call them "sapozhkami."Naturally, the boot should be two - on both sides of the profile.
  2. The fourth method assumes good ownership of metal scissors, which from the profile of PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27 cut out a suspension, which includes "ears" for fixing to the ceiling and legs for attachment to the bearing profile.

The Internet is replete with the assurances of "experienced installers" that homemade hangers are in no way inferior and even superior to industrial ones. But the team of authors of the article considers it necessary to warn readers of our portal from the ill-considered and widespread use of self-made suspensions and recommends the use of those recommended by the manufacturer. And here's why:

  • Industrially manufactured suspensions are designed for a specific load: 40 kg for a straight and 25 for an anchor, - which will ensure the required strength of the ceiling. Homemade suspensions can not guarantee resistance to such loads.
  • Suspensions from well-known manufacturers have a thickness of 0.9 mm, while the maximum thickness of the profile used for self-manufacturing fasteners is 0,7 mm( and more often 0,6, 0,5 or even 0,4 mm).Naturally, the strength of such products will be significantly lower.
  • Extended hangers have a greater number of fasteners, which reduces the reliability of the structure.

Based on the above arguments, it is still necessary to use the regular fasteners. It is allowed to use self-made suspensions, but only in those places where there are insignificant load on the load-bearing profiles, for example, in short( up to 50 cm) bridges, auxiliary elements and other unloaded sections.

Connection of load-bearing profiles to each other

For the formation of a good metal frame of a gypsum board ceiling, in addition to reliable attachment to building structures, it is also necessary to fasten the bearing profiles PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27 to each other. Earlier, the types of connectors were already considered, now it's time to consider how to use them.

Elongation of profiles PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27

In retail networks, these profiles are generally 3 or 4 meters long, which in most cases is sufficient to create any ceiling design using whole pieces of profiles, and this, inprinciple, we must always try to do it. Very rarely, but there are situations where this length is not enough, so the profile needs to be extended. This can be done both with the help of standard connectors, and in alternative ways.

Application of extensions of the profile PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27

As practice shows, it is best to use a regular profile extender, which is always available, has a penny price and provides the required strength of the connection. How to apply it?

  • It is best when the connection of profiles is made by factory cuts - they are the most even and will provide a quality joint. In extreme cases, you can gently make a cut with a Bulgarian on the preliminary marking with a square and then deburr the burrs with a file.
  • The extension piece is inserted into one of the profiles inwards to the limiters that are in the side parts. Then the side part of the profile is bent by the pliers.
  • A different profile is attached to the other part of the extension and similarly is bent by the pliers.
  • The profiles to be joined are laid on a flat surface, the docking area is reinforced with metal screws, which must secure both the profile and the extension. It is recommended to screw 4 screws on each side.
  • When mounting an elongated profile to the ceiling, the connection point is additionally insured with straight or anchor hangers at a distance of 10 cm from each side, and this must be done regardless of the location of the main hangers.
Only the use of a standard extension of the ceiling profile can guarantee the required strength of the connection

Only the use of a standard ceiling profile extender can guarantee the required strength of the

connection. Alternative ways of extending the profiles of the PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27

If you do not have a profile extender, you can make it yourself. Strength, true. It will be somewhat lower, but under the condition of insuring the place of connection with suspensions, this method is quite applicable.

  • Cut off 10 cm of profile PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27.
  • Scissors for metal or Bulgarian from this segment cut the upper bent edges.
  • With pliers, the sides are leveled, the bottom part is given a concave profile, like a standard extension cord.
  • Precisely in the middle of the manufactured part, a marker is made by the marker, on which the joint will occur.
  • Then the connection goes the same way as in the previous case.

You can do without an intermediate detail. Then it is necessary to cut off the bent edges on both sides at a length of 10 cm, then insert one profile into the other, align on a flat surface and fasten with screws - 4 on each side. But this connection is less reliable due to the fact that in the wide part of the profile there is no stiffening rib.

Ways of lengthening profiles are clearly shown in the video.

Video: Extension of profiles
Connection of profiles PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27 at an angle in one level
Connection with Crab

The main way to connect such profiles is to connect at an angle of 90 ° and in most cases it is used. To do this, there is a special connector, called "crab" in everyday life. Connecting with its profiles is extremely easy:

  • On the main load-bearing profiles of PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27 marks are made of the axes of the profiles to be joined. Most jumper between the main profiles are made every 50-60 cm.
  • The crab is inserted into the main supporting profile until it clicks when the spring pawls go over the profile edge.
  • Moving the connector along the profile, combine the center of the crab with the mark.
  • On the crab the tendrils on the main profile are bent and through the holes the self-tapping screws are wound - two on each side, thus the crab is fixed on the main profile.
  • On the other adjacent main profile, with which the first profile will be joined by means of a jumper, similar operations are performed for the installation of the crab.
  • Between the crabs on adjacent load-bearing profiles, the required length of the cross-section profile is measured. For example, the distance between the axes of adjacent profiles is 600 mm, the width of the profile is 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27 - 60 mm. It turns out that the length of the profile-bridge must be 600 mm-30 mm-30 mm = 540 mm. To ensure that the profile does not get too tight, but has a gap, it is cut into 10 mm less: 540 mm-10 mm = 530 mm.
  • The jumper profile of the required length is cut off. Particular attention should be paid to the quality of the edges. If necessary, their geometry is corrected with pliers, and the burrs are cut with a file. Excellent quality of the cut is given by a Bulgarian or electric scissors for metal.
  • The profile of the jumper is inserted into the crabs on the main profiles, snapped with paws and fixed with screws through pre-bent antennae.
  • The operation is repeated at all places where connection of profiles is required.

There are situations when it is required to connect two 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27 PP profiles in one level, not at right angles, but under another or "crabs", and you do not want to be distracted from the editing process. Therefore, it is worthwhile to consider other ways of connecting.

Video: Connection of profiles "Crab"
Alternative ways of connecting profiles

Of course, it is preferable to use such profile connectors recommended by component manufacturers for gypsum board systems. However, many years of experience in installation allows us to say that alternative methods are inferior in strength to the recommended methods. We describe one of the most common.

During the installation of the frame, inevitably there are waste profiles, in particular, MON 28 * 27 / UD 28 * 27, which can be used for a single-level connection PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27 as a cross at right angles, and T-shapeda right angle, and also under any arbitrary angle( there are also such situations in complex ceilings).It should be noted that the described method gives the strength of the construction no worse than with the "crabs", and much better, in the case of purchasing counterfeit connectors.

  • The bearing profiles are used to mark the axes of the jumper profiles. We remind you that the distance between bridges should not be more than 600 mm.
  • From the remnants of the profile of the Mon 28 * 27 / UD 28 * 27, cuts of 10 cm are cut. A mark is made on their middle.
  • A profile segment PN 28 * 27 / UD 28 * 27 is applied to the side shelf of the PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27 profile, with the pre-marked labels being aligned and the lower edges of the profiles being set at the same level.
  • Screws for metal( TN9 or LN9) the cut is attached to the main profile. The distance from the edge of the segment to the attachment point is 10 mm. For these purposes it is quite possible to use the prosector.
  • In all planned locations on the main load-bearing profiles, the sections from the guide profile are mounted as described above.
  • The jumper from the profile of PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27 is cut, and their length should be 10 mm less than the distance between the main profiles. This greatly facilitates the installation, the structure of the frame will not burst.
  • Jumpers are inserted into the intended locations, the center line is aligned with the mark on the carrier profile. Fastening is made by a self-tapping screw( TN9 or LN9) or a cutter. It is quite enough one fixing point, since the main load falls on the load-bearing profiles, and the subsequent plasterboard plating will give the structure even greater rigidity.
Такое соединение потолочных профилей в одном уровне практически не уступает по прочности "Крабу"

This connection of the ceiling profiles in one level is almost as good as the strength of the "Crab"

. Obviously, to connect the profiles at an angle, the operations are carried out exactly as described above. The only difference is that the jumpers are cut at the required angle, which is easy to mark by attaching the profile to the attachment point. You can, of course, use the standard universal one-level connector from Knauf, but practice shows that they are used extremely rarely, and therefore it is very difficult to find them on sale.

There are still other alternative ways to connect profiles at an angle in one level. To do this, the end of the profile PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27 is cut with metal scissors as shown in the figure. This method is widely used, but the team of authors of our portal does not advise the readers, since the strength of the structure is greatly reduced because inevitably the lateral folded shelves are cut, which give the profile the necessary rigidity. In addition, there is an increased consumption of the more expensive PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27 profile, and the resulting cuttings are no longer suitable for anything, but the 28 * 27 / UD 28 * 27 monolithic cuttings will always find use of wastes from them practically will not.

Such joints of profiles should be avoided

Similar joints of profiles are better to avoid

Arrangement of a two-level ceiling from gypsum board

Finally it's time to move on to practical actions and begin to equip a unique and unique ceiling with your own hands. For the convenience of perception and full understanding of the process, the team of authors of the article divided this process into several stages.

Definition of

ceiling design Surprisingly, this issue is one of the most complicated in the arrangement of multi-level ceilings, because there is no shortage of plasterboard and all components, it is possible to find high-class masters or technically flawlessly perform the installation of the ceiling structure itself, but here the wrong design can negateall efforts. Therefore, the issue of choosing the right design is paramount and everything should begin with it. Therefore, at this stage it is possible to attract a good specialist in this field, which, unfortunately, is a minority. Another good way is to study the already implemented projects on the Internet, which are simply the sea and the choice of the most suitable for the specific conditions. In turn, the team of authors of this article will give some advice.

  • In addition to the decorative function, the multi-level ceiling from gypsum board performs also engineering: in the space between the building structures there can be electrical wiring and low-current systems, lighting fixtures, ventilation and air conditioning systems, ventilation ducts in kitchens and bathrooms and others. Under no circumstances should design harm the engineering systems, but should peacefully coexist in favor of the former. For example, for the sake of the designer's intention, the air duct of the kitchen hood is forced to make many turns that increase resistance to the air flow, and, therefore, reduce efficiency and increase noise.
The ceiling from plasterboard should peacefully get along with engineering communications

The ceiling from plasterboard should peacefully get along with the engineering communications

  • The ceiling design from the GCR must not exist separately from the interior of the whole room. On the contrary, it should emphasize all its details: the location of upholstered furniture, tables and cabinets, a combined floor covering, the presence of various significant interior details: a bar rack, flowerpots, a large aquarium, a TV set and others.
  • Modern design implies conciseness, strict geometry, symmetry and functionality. The era of pretentious forms, a lot of curved lines, piles of layers and unjustified by any laws of harmony delusions of self-taught designers has passed.
Inhabitants of a dwelling with such ceilings can eventually become regular customers of a madhouse. And the designer has long been there time

Dwellers with such ceilings can eventually become regular customers of a madhouse. And the designer has long been there it's time

  • In the majority of Russia's housing stock, the ceiling height averages 2.5 meters, so it should be remembered that space is not infinite - the less a two-level design "eats" precious centimeters - the better, but you should take into account the diameters of the air ducts, the size of the luminaires and other equipment installed. Usually the first level, if it does not have built-in lamps, is mounted at a distance of 5-7 cm from the ceiling, and the second 10-20 cm.
  • The best lighting is a combination of directional and diffused light. The best place for installing spotlights is the second level of the ceiling from plasterboard, and the main source of diffused lighting( chandelier) is the geometric center of the room or a certain zone located at the first( uppermost) level of the ceiling.
  • Rectangular forms of multi-level ceilings( including those with rounded corners) are suitable for visual narrowing or expansion of rooms;The shape of a circle or ellipse emphasizes the center of the room or the center of a certain zone in a large room;a lot of curved lines can be used only in a dynamic interior, combining several styles, but not in the classics.
  • Most often, the second( lower) level, where spotlights are built in, mounted around the perimeter of the room, and the first level is located in the center. In this case, the second level is called either a box or a curb. He can have both smooth edges, and curly, and rounded, and others.
Simple and beautiful

And simple, and beautifully

  • If the second level is also located in the center of the first level, which is sometimes justified in terms of design, then this detail is called an island. For example, in a large kitchen the working surface is located in the center, accordingly on the ceiling an island is made, where the air duct of the hood and the lighting are hidden.
Пример "острова" на современной кухне

An example of the "island" in the modern kitchen

  • In two-level ceilings it is very easy to realize lighting( LED tape or duralight), which gives the interior mystery and intimacy. Particularly well illuminates itself in the bedrooms.
  • When designing a ceiling, you should consider various lighting scenarios that can change the mood from a noisy party with friends, to spiritual gatherings with close people and relaxation after watching your favorite movie. The abundance of modern light devices and control devices will help to easily realize this. Then a multi-level ceiling made of gypsum board realizes all its possibilities.

Also, it should not be forgotten that in one apartment or house there should not be a room "living" according to certain laws that differ from others. All rooms should harmonize with each other and, despite some differences, the overall concept of interior design should still be maintained. If, of course, we are talking about an apartment or a house, and not about a funeral institution.

At what stage of repair or construction is a two-level ceiling made?

Creating a multi-level ceiling from gypsum board is not a separate operation, it is included in the complex of works on construction and repair, and in the final part - at the stage of final finishing. When exactly can you start these works?

  • First, all construction processes for the erection of walls, partitions and ceilings must be completed.
  • Secondly, all engineering systems should be carried out, the cabling of the ceiling lighting system can be done already after the frame is built.
  • Third, windows must be inserted.
  • Fourthly, all "wet" processes must be completed: arrangement of floor screed, plastering of walls and slopes. The room must be ready for final finishing.
  • And, finally, the humidity in the room should not exceed 75%, and the air temperature should not be below + 16 ° C.

In the final decoration of the rooms, the principle is that it starts from the ceiling, goes to the walls and ends with the floor. That is, first the ceiling is made, the plasterboard is plastered, the joints are sealed, and then the puttying of the ceiling and walls, which can be combined into one process, so that these very dusty jobs do not stretch over time.

Preparatory work for

Once the ceiling design has been selected and agreed with all interested parties, you can already begin to implement the selected ceiling in a particular room. But for this it is necessary to draw a plan of the room, on which to draw the ceiling scheme.

Measurement of the room, drawing up the plan

In numerous articles on construction and repair, both in magazines and on the Internet - the plans for the premises are ideal rectangles or other regular geometric figures on which any ideas of the owners and designers are very easily realized. But at the end of the work it turns out that the room was far from ideal, which affected the geometric forms of plasterboard.

Human vision has a unique property - it does not measure anything, it still immediately estimates that some lines are not parallel, the surfaces are not horizontal, the circle or ellipse is not ideal, and the curve or wavy line does not obey the natural laws of harmony. From this, all the impression of an ideal and beautiful ceiling can immediately come to naught. Therefore, it is necessary to measure the room, draw up the drawing and markup correctly. We describe how to do this, but for this it is worth remembering the school course of geometry. All stages of the layout in the plan are shown in the figure. All measurements must be carried out in millimeters, as is customary throughout the world.

The layout of the room should reflect reflecting the true geometry of the room( black lines) and the correct( red lines)

The layout of the room should reflect the true geometry of the room( black lines) and the correct( red lines).

  • First of all, we need to find the geometric center of the room, which is always at the intersection of the diagonals. For this, a paint string stretches from corner to corner, and two diagonals "beat off".In this place, you can immediately screw the dowel or screw, depending on the material of the ceiling.
  • Diagonals are measured and these values ​​are recorded. In the figure, these are segments D1D3 and D2D4.If their length is equal, then the owner can be congratulated - his room is ideally rectangular in shape, and if not, then - this is a trapezoid or just a quadrilateral.
  • The length of short walls is measured, and their midpoints( points H1 and H2), between which the cord is stretched. If the cord falls on the geometric center, then it's fine - the line is immediately repulsed, if not, then it is shifted by the deviation value and beat off by the paint cord.
  • A similar operation is performed with long walls, the segment V1V
  • beats off. Now it is necessary to build perpendiculars to the H1H2 line. To do this, do not use a gon, which also has its own error, but it is better to apply the method of geometric constructions. On diagonals, from the center there are equal segments Od1, Od2, Od3, Od4.Best of all, if they do not reach the corners of 10-15 cm to simplify the layout.
  • The points d1, d2, d3, d4 are joined and, as a result, a rectangle is obtained( by the condition of equality of diagonals), from which all further marking and construction of the skeleton will "dance".
  • On the sheet of millimeter paper( better than the A3 format), a room plan is made. To do this, a horizontal line is drawn on the scale( 1:50 or 1:25), on which the center is indicated.
  • The distances OH1, Oh1, OH2, Oh2 are measured on the ceiling and deposited on the chosen scale on paper.
  • From points h1 and h2 perpendicular straight lines are drawn on which the segments h1d1, h1d2, h2d3, h2d4 are laid, which should be equal.
  • From the center are drawn straight lines through d1, d2, d3, d4 - these are the diagonals of the room. On them we postpone in the scale the previously measured on the ceiling segments OD1, OD2, OD3, OD4.
  • We connect the points d1, d2, d3, d4 D1, D2, D3, D We get an outer rectangle - this is the true geometry of the room, and the inner one is the correct geometry that will be correctly perceived by even the most demanding human eye.

Everything, the plan of the premises is ready, now the owner's task is to independently or with the help of specialists to write the chosen design into a specific room. It is recommended that in the thin pencil on the plan it be recommended to note the future arrangement of furniture in scale, reflecting its true dimensions, since this can greatly affect the design of the ceiling. Of course, it's best to use computerized 3D visualization programs, but people with imaginative imagination will just lie down on the floor and, holding a plan on outstretched hands before their eyes, represent the future ceiling.

Determination of ceiling level, revision of its surface

The plane of any ceiling must be strictly horizontal, however, slabs or monolithic ceilings, even in new homes, do not always, unfortunately, meet this requirement. Therefore, it is necessary to "repel" the horizontal level and check the plane of the ceiling. How it's done?

  • On one of the walls, closer to the corner, a horizontal mark is made with a pencil or marker at a distance of 10-20 cm from the ceiling.
  • With the help of water level( level) or laser level this mark is transferred to other places - 2-3 marks on each wall. When using the level it is necessary to make sure that there are no bubbles in the tube, and it was not located near the heating devices.
The laser level greatly facilitates the process of marking and assembling gypsum boards

The laser level greatly facilitates the process of marking and mounting of drywall constructions

  • . The paint line, marked by marks, beats horizontal lines on all walls - we get a horizontal plane.
  • The distance in the corners and in the middle of each wall from the line to the ceiling plane is measured and their difference is estimated.
  • If the difference in distances is a few millimeters( up to 5), then such a ceiling can serve as the first level of a two-tier structure, and all the flaws will be corrected by puttying.
  • If the difference is from 5 mm to 5 cm, the unevenness can be corrected by the plaster of the ceiling with reinforcing mesh, and only then it will act as the first level.
  • If the difference is more than 5 cm( sometimes it happens) - there is no way to do without hiding this "disgrace" with a hanging design.

In addition to the plane, it is necessary to check the surface quality, which in the future will have to be plastered, putty or sheltered by a suspended ceiling. What options can be and what solutions can be adopted?

  • In an apartment or house, the ceiling is whitewashed( painted) on plaster. In this case, it is necessary to wash off the whitewash, and to repel the old plaster to the base. After that, plaster and putty. This is an extremely laborious and troublesome process, so the best way to cover this ceiling is completely behind the suspended structure.
  • If in the old houses the floors are wooden, then the ceilings must definitely be concealed, especially since the ceiling height in such a dwelling is usually from 2.7 to 3 meters and it is possible to "smooth out" the creation of any gypsum plasterboard without compromising the height of the room.
Such a ceiling plastering is meaningless

Such a ceiling plastering is pointless

  • If the ceiling has a solid foundation, plastered, and all communications have already been carried out, then it is quite possible to simply plank it and use it as a first level.
  • If the ceiling is a bare concrete slab, which is often the case in newly built houses, it will still have to be plastered and puttied or hidden behind a suspended structure, which will further hide all communications.

As can be seen from the above, in most cases it is advantageous to make both levels of the ceiling from the GKL, as the plaster and puttying of the surface with the preliminary removal of the old finish will be at a price no lower than the gypsum board construction. Especially when the first layer of the ceiling is correctly assembled "eats" from a height of 5-6 cm, which does not introduce any discomfort, and the correct design and color scheme can visually raise the ceiling.

Selection of the scheme for the implementation of the two-level ceiling

It's time to choose a specific scheme for the implementation of the ceiling. The fact is that, regardless of the infinite number of realizations of plasterboard ceilings, there are only a few typical schemes. We consider them consecutively, grouped by group.

The first level - plastered ceiling

In this case, it is possible to realize the curbs( curbs) on the walls of the room, and in the center leave a free space of the ceiling, which must be carefully puttied, since with the light on, flaws in the surface will immediately be visible. It is also possible to organize islands from the GKL, which can be used to zoning the premises. Naturally, in the second level, the built-in lamps are placed, and also the backlight can be used in the form of a light cord or LED( LED) tape. Currently, the price of products from LEDs is rapidly falling and you can quite afford a multi-color RGB LED tape with a control unit and remote control.

Option 1: Without eaves for lighting

The figure clearly shows the construction of this ceiling in the section. Profile MON 28 * 27 / UD 28 * 27 on the wall is fixed to the dowel-nails and it sets the second horizontal level of the ceiling. On the ceiling, the same profile is fixed to the metal anchor wedges, it specifies its shape in the plan, and it does not need to be rectangular. The horizontal size of the box specifies the section of the PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27 profile, inserted into the guide profile on the wall and fastened with it by the LN9 or LB9 screwdriver. At the ends of the horizontal PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27, a guide profile is fitted, and segments of the same PL 28 * 27 / UD 28 * 27 are fastened to it, which will be the basis for fixing the vertical segments of the PP / CD profile. So the skeleton of the box is formed.

The diagram does not indicate direct suspensions, which must insure the horizontal profile. Apparently, the authors of the drawing considered that with such dimensions the suspensions are not needed, but the team of authors of the article still recommends using them.

One of the options for implementing a two-level ceiling without lighting. As the first level, the plastered and plastered surface of the ceiling

One of the options for implementing a two-level ceiling without lighting. As the first level, the plastered and plastered surface of the

ceiling. Option 2: With the

curtain rail. The figure shows the implementation of a two-level ceiling with a cornice, where the illumination will be placed. Previously, we used neon lamps, fluorescent lamps, light cords - Duralight and even Christmas garlands. Now, the best choice is LED-tapes, which have a self-adhesive layer.

To place the lights make a special shelf( cornice), protruding beyond the vertical plane of the second level

To place the lighting make a special shelf( cornice), projecting beyond the vertical plane of the second level

The difference from the previous version is minimal. To create a cornice, the horizontal profile is extended by 5-10 cm. To attach the horizontal profile to the vertical one, it is necessary to make cuts to a depth of 2.5 cm, a wide part of the PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27 profile should be folded inside, and the curved ends of the shelves or cut,or, after making an incision, press the pliers. Then through the resulting side legs you can securely fasten the two profiles with self-tapping screws for metal. The end of the horizontal profile PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27 is fixed ПН 28 * 27 / UD 28 * 27.At the stage of carcass plating, a strip of gypsum board with a width of 3 cm-5 cm is attached to this profile.

For fastening the horizontal and vertical profiles of PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27, this method

For fastening horizontal and vertical profiles of PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27, this method is used.

Two-level ceiling made of plasterboard, in which the first level is the surface of the ceiling itself, has a number of undeniable advantages:

  • Such a design is easier to make.
  • The material goes much less.
  • The design of the ceiling lessens the precious centimeters of the height of the room.
  • Fastening of the frame is made directly to the construction structures - the ceiling and walls, which increases the reliability.

The disadvantages of such structures are:

  • Old ceilings will have to knock down old plaster to the base, and this is a laborious process.
  • To conduct the wiring at the first level, strobing is required.
  • Ideally plastered and plastered the surface of the ceiling is much more difficult than perfectly flat sheets of plasterboard.
  • Poor sound insulation.

That's why most owners and craftsmen prefer to completely cover the ceiling under gypsum board, under which there can be simply bare slabs.

The first level - gypsum plasterboard ceiling

In this case, for all the flaws in the ceiling, you can simply "close your eyes" and eventually get an ideal surface. This approach can be compared with applying make-up, just do not have to take it off daily, but it will serve as faith and truth for a long time. Let's consider what types of arrangement of the ceiling are applied.

Option 3: Mounting the second level of the ceiling to the first

In this case, the first level skeleton of the ceiling is first mounted. For the successful construction of the frame, it is sufficient to set the first level guides at a distance of 5 cm from the lowest point of the ceiling. Then the first level of the ceiling will lower the height by only 5 cm + 9 mm( thickness GCR) = 59 mm. Even in a room with a ceiling height of 2.5 meters it will be invisible.

The fixing of the vertical profiles of the second level in this version is made to the bearing profiles of the second level

Fastening of vertical profiles of the second level in this version is made to the second-level load-bearing profiles

. The figure shows the construction of this ceiling in a section. It is very similar to the previous schemes, the only difference is that the mounting of vertical profiles of the second-level box is not made to the ceiling, but to the frame of the first level. Naturally, such a ceiling can be equipped with a cornice for lighting - the same as in the previous example.

In the figure above, it is noted that the first level, located under the second box, is not sewn with plasterboard. And this is absolutely correct. What for? Although in the literature, and on the Internet, there are plenty of examples where only after the full lining of the first level is mounted the second box. This option is suitable only for fans to "bury" extra square meters of drywall( which cost money), but not for a reasonable and diligent master.

The main disadvantages of this option is a large material consumption, as well as lower reliability - after all, the second level is attached to the "intermediary" - the first level, and not to the more durable and reliable construction structures.

Option 4: Fasteners of the first level of plasterboard ceiling to the second

This is the most elegant solution for the arrangement of a two-level ceiling, combining the advantages of all options. In the presented diagram it is evident that the second-level box is fixed to the building structures, which increases the reliability of the structure. The first level is also fixed to the ceiling, and on the vertical surfaces of the box are fixed guides that do not carry a heavy load, but only set the plane.

One of the best technical solutions combining the merits of all options

One of the best technical solutions combining the advantages of all variants of

. The authors of the picture forgot to mention that suspension( direct or anchor) is desirable on the horizontal profiles of PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27.Only if the width of the box is 25 cm or less, then it can not be used.

Advantages of ceilings, in which both levels are "protected" with plasterboard are:

  • No need to communicate with troublesome and "wet" processes to remove old plaster and apply a new one.
  • Possibility to conduct all necessary communications under plasterboard.
  • The best soundproofing.
  • A relatively simple way of finishing.
  • Fast installation.

The only drawback of such designs is the high material consumption.

Drawing up a draft of a gypsum plasterboard ceiling

After there is a clear understanding of the design of the ceiling, a room plan is drawn up taking into account the actual dimensions and configuration of the premises, a design option is selected, and the design can be started. The authors of the article immediately give advice to home masters - the previously outlined plan of the premise is better to be copied in several copies at once, as corrections can be made while drawing up the project, moreover the most cardinal ones. That is why, in order not to redraw several times the plan of the premise it is better to have several pieces.

When transferring the selected design to the layout of the premises, nothing should be drawn by hand, everything should be justified from the point of view of geometry. On a sheet of paper it's easy to draw a beautiful figure from your hand, but how to draw on a ceiling? That is why, using only the compasses, ruler and protractor, the chosen design should be inscribed in strict mathematical laws. It is necessary to imagine such a picture - before the installer a clean ceiling without any marks. Having only roulette, compasses( how to do it later) and a pencil installer should transfer all the markings to the ceiling from the project.

If you can not do this yourself, you can contact the specialists who, with the help of special software, will do it all beautifully. An example of a properly executed ceiling plan is shown in the figure.

With the help of a well-executed ceiling plan, an experienced installer can easily transfer the layout to the ceiling

With the help of a well-executed ceiling plan, an experienced installer can easily transfer the layout to the

ceiling. What should be indicated on the plan?

  • First, all the constructions on the plan should start from the geometric center of the room.
  • Secondly, all dimensions of the boxes must be specified.
  • Third, if the ceiling configuration assumes a rounding, then the positions of the centers of circles with respect to the geometric center and their radii should be indicated.
  • Fourthly, if a complex curve is assumed, then it must be constructed by the method of conjugating arcs of circles, which also specify both the center and the radii.
  • Fifthly, the axial lines of the location of the built-in luminaires, their specific position and the diameters of the holes for them should be indicated. On straight sections with reference to the geometric center, and on arcs in polar coordinates, which means indicating the center of the circle, the angle and the radius.
  • And, finally, it's better to print out the finished ceiling plan, too, or to copy it in several copies.

After drawing up of the plan it is necessary to make the scheme of engineering communications that includes:

  • Placement of junction boxes.
  • Type of wires and their cross-section.
  • Method of connecting luminaires. For example, if the fixtures need to light up and go off all together, it's enough to bring one wire and start it with a cable, from one to the other, providing a parallel connection. If several zones or different light scenarios are assumed, separate wires from switches or the controller to the groups or even to each individual light should be maintained.
  • Routes of laying wires.
  • If the ventilation ducts of the exhaust ducts or ducts pass through the ceiling, it is worth pointing out their position.
This wiring can not be done without a circuit

This wiring can not be done without the

scheme. The design of the ceiling skeleton should include the alignment of the profiles 28 * 27 / UD 28 * 27 and 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27, the position of straight or anchor hangers, "crabs", layout of plasterboard sheets. The design of the frame is best done on a previously copied ceiling plan. What needs to be done for this?

A similar plan, which will greatly help in the work, will be able to draw even a schoolboy

A similar plan, which will greatly help in the work, will be able to draw even a schoolboy

  • From the geometric center of the room, put 300 mm( in scale) in each side along the axes of the right rectangle d1d2d3d4( see the room plan).
  • Construct a grid of mutually perpendicular straight lines with a spacing of 600 mm - these will be the axial lines of the PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27 profiles.
  • Determine the position of the straight hangers at the first level of the ceiling. To do this, from the center line up and down, set aside 250 mm( in scale) along all grid lines. Then arrange the suspensions with an interval of 500 mm. The nearest suspension to the box must not be more than 200 mm from it. In which case, change the arrangement by changing the intervals between them in the direction of decreasing, but the suspension should not be on the line of intersection of the axes of the profiles.
  • If the horizontal profiles of the box are longer than 300 mm, then indicate the position of the hangers( straight if the distance to the ceiling is less than or equal to 120 mm or anchor, if the distance is greater) at their center.
  • Mark all places on the first level of the ceiling, where the "Crab" connector will be used - these are nothing but the intersection points of straight lines.
  • Make a layout of drywall sheets on the plan. Sheets should be placed along the main bearing profiles( those on which the suspensions are placed).GCR should be stacked in a descent, that is, the seams of the joints of adjacent sheets should not coincide. The minimum spread is 600 mm. All joints should be strictly on the profiles PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27.First, the layout of the first level is done, and the remaining pieces can be used for sheathing the box. When laying out sheets it is very convenient to cut pieces of cardboard into the scale of the ceiling plan, which will display the GCR( dimensions 2500 * 1200 mm).So it is possible, laying and pruning these pieces to estimate the necessary amount of drywall and determine the optimal layout.
  • The necessary number of profiles, "crabs", hangers, gypsum boards are counted. At this stage, it is advisable to involve an experienced installer, so as not to buy excess, as the drawback can be bought up, and it is very difficult to sell the surplus.
  • When purchasing GCR and components, you can add 15% to the calculated figures, as there will be errors in calculations, corrections will be made to the design during the installation, and mistakes that lead to breakage of the ceiling components are inevitable.
An example of a layout plan with a GCR layout and the position of the hangers

Example of a layout plan with a GCR layout and the position of the

suspension Some home designers at the design stage try to count even the number of screws necessary for ceiling mounting. In the assembly community, this is taken as a moveton, so it is better to stock up two boxes of 1000 pieces of self-tapping screws for metal and gypsum boards. Only at first glance this is a lot, but in fact may not be enough - it all depends on the design of the ceiling. Purchase of GCR is better done in advance. For 7-10 days, so that the sheets are "used" to the temperature and humidity conditions of the room, where they will be mounted.

Layout of the

ceiling After drawing up the plans and the design of the two-level ceiling, you need to transfer the drawing from paper to the ceiling, and you need to do this by geometric constructions, as well as on a paper plan. And for this you will need the same tools: ruler, compasses, protractor( although the basic angles of 30 °, 45 ° and 60 ° can only be constructed using a compass and ruler).For the ceiling, the rule, roulette and self-made compasses will do. With the first two positions everything is clear, but with the third it is necessary to give some advice from practice.

  • It is necessary to designate all the centers of circles, transfer them from the plan to the ceiling. Earlier, when the dimensions were removed, diagonals were already drawn, axes drawn, a regular rectangle was drawn, so there should not be any complications in this matter.
  • In the geometric center of the ceiling( at the intersection of diagonals), as well as in all centers of circles, it is necessary to drive in dowels and tighten the screws so that their hat protrudes by 10-15 mm.
  • From the profile 28 * 27 / UD 28 * 27 a piece of the desired length is cut off, which should slightly exceed the largest radius of the circle on the ceiling plan.
  • A hole 4 mm in diameter is drilled at one end of the profile, which will serve as the center of the circle.
  • From this hole the required radii are measured, according to the ceiling plan, holes are drilled in these places, where a marker or pencil will be placed. Near these holes, the values ​​of the radii are recorded with a thin marker.
  • If you fix the profile in the center of one of the circles on the ceiling, you get a compass to draw the circles. To do this, after fixing in the center, a marker or pencil is placed in other, pre-drilled holes, and a circle or arc of the desired radius is drawn.
Compasses from the guide profile

Compass from the

guide profile. The compass can also be made from an inextensible cord, on which the required lengths are measured, but the profile tool is much easier to use and has better accuracy.

Tip: The profile 28 * 27 / UD 28 * 27, prepared as a circular profile, can be used to construct straight angles. To do this, it is necessary to set aside distances of 30, 40 and 50 cm from the center. By building a triangle of Pythagoras( Egyptian triangle), you can get a right angle on any surface.

When all the tools are ready, you can start marking. What, first of all, you need to transfer from the project to the ceiling?

  • First, on the walls you need to fight off the first and second levels of the ceiling. The first level can be located at a distance of 50 mm from the lowest point of the ceiling, and the second at a distance of 10-30 cm from the first( all depends on the height of the ceiling and the configuration of the room).It is best to do this with a laser level, and in its absence - a water level( level).
  • , secondly, all the axial lines of the ceiling profiles PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27 are carried to the ceiling, both carrying and jumpers. This is quite easy to do, since there is already a rectangle on the ceiling that was drawn when drawing up a room plan. Measuring the necessary distances along the sides of the rectangle, you can construct a grid of axial lines with a pitch of 600 mm.
  • Third, the location of the hangers( straight and anchor) is noted.
  • Fourthly, the configuration of the second level box of the ceiling is drawn, and this is done by the method of geometric constructions - a compass made in advance and a ruler.
  • And, finally, the location of the built-in lamps in the box and the source of the main light( chandelier), as well as the points where the junction boxes will be mounted.

Installation of a two-level ceiling from gypsum board

Before starting work, it is necessary to prepare the room. For this:

1 The ceiling and walls are marked according to the design. Electrical wiring placed in the corrugated tube( mandatory!), It is best to tighten the plastic clips and fix it in the corner between the ceiling and the wall so that there is no interference with the installation.
2 A sealing tape is attached to the rear part of the profiles 28 * 27 / UD 28 * 27, and then they are fastened along the previously marked lines to the walls by dowel nails in steps of 30-40 cm, and to the ceiling, the anchor wedges are 25 cm in steps in the cornersthe profile is inserted into each other and fastened with a TN9 or LN9 screwdriver. These guide profiles determine the dimensions of the future box.
3 Measures the distance from the ceiling to the bottom edge of the wall guide profile. From the profile of PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27 cuts are cut by metal scissors, the length of which is less by 10 mm of the measured distance. At the end of the segments, the side shelves are cut by 2.5 cm from the end of the profile, and a tongue is made from the back, as shown in the figure. As a result, we get suspensions.
4 The obtained suspensions are attached by screws TN9 or LN9 to the ceiling profile in 40-60 cm increments. At the same time, they must be located at the ends of the profiles, before any bends in the places of joints of the drywall sheets.
5 To the bottom part( to the tongue) of the hangers, the guide profile of the PN 28 * 27 / UD 28 * 27 is fixed. Fastening is made through the back, and sharp edges should be directed to the wall. When fastening, the horizontal level of the plane formed by the lower part of the wall and mounted guide profiles is controlled by the level. You can also monitor the correct installation of the tape measure - the distance from the ceiling to the bottom of the profile should be equal on all suspensions. At the ends of the mounted and wall profile must be fastened with a screwdriver.
6th On the ceiling, according to the project, there are locations for installing recessed luminaires.
7th The wire is stretched to the places where the luminaires are installed( preferably PVS 2 * 0.75).Since all fixtures must be switched on at the same time, it can be pulled by a train - to the first lamp, then from the first to the second one, etc., all wires are placed in a corrugated tube with a diameter of 16 mm and fixed to the ceiling with plastic clips. The length is made such that they hang below the plane of the box by 15-20 cm.
8 In the designated places that should not be located at the installation sites of luminaires, the distance from the wall to the back of the mounted profile is measured. Cut pieces of the profile PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27, which should be 10 mm less than the measured distance. The obtained segments are inserted into the profiles of the PN 28 * 27 / UD 28 * 27.This is how the guides of the bottom plane of the box form.
I Horizontal sections of the profile are exposed perpendicular to the wall using a square.
10 And then they are fixed with a TN9 or LN9 screw.
eleven Verification of the verticality of the front of the box using a square.
12 And also fastened with a screwdriver. Attention should be paid to the fact that the axial lines of the vertical and horizontal profiles of the PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27 do not coincide, so that there are no lateral joints of the plasterboard of the vertical and horizontal planes on the same line.
13 Cut plasterboard strips of the right size and attached to the front of the box screws TN 25. For the kitchen is better to use moisture-resistant gypsum board( GKLV).The fixing step is 10-15 cm, all joints should be in the middle of the PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27 profile.
14 All engineering communications are checked. The duct of the kitchen hood is mounted. In this particular case, a rectangular air duct with a cross section of 120 * 60 mm is best suited for installing exhausts with a capacity of up to 350 m 3 / h.
15 Cut-to-size plasterboard sheets for covering the bottom of the box. The fixing is done by screws TN 25 with a step of 10-15 cm. The joints must occur only in the middle of the profiles. On the horizontal surface of the box, the places of installation of the built-in lamps are immediately indicated. For this you can drill small holes.
17th Joints GKL shpaklyutsya and strengthened with a sickle, glued aluminum reinforcing corners. Then, the entire surface of the box is polished in two steps with polishing. Then the fillets are glued.
18 The fillets and the bottom plane of the box are painted white, and the side surface - in the color corresponding to the walls. Crown cut holes in which the fixtures are mounted. The box is ready.
Illustration Description of the assembly steps
1 With a hydraulic level or a laser level, the ceilings are labeled to determine the second level of the suspended ceiling. The labels are connected by a line using the rule.
2 Along the line, the guide profile MON 28 * 27 / UD 28 * 27 is mounted through the sealing tape.
3 To mark the circle, take a section of the profile PN 28 * 27 / UD 28 * 27, one end is fixed in the center and circles( inner and outer) of the desired diameters are drawn through the pre-drilled holes with a pencil or marker.
4 Profile MON 28 * 27 / UD 28 * 27 is cut with metal scissors into segments with a length of 10 cm. At the same time, the cutting goes to the side shelf and profile backs.
5 The notched profile is applied to the outer circle on the ceiling and fixed to each segment by dowel nails 6 * 60 mm.
6th By applying a bubble level to the bottom plane of the wall guide profile and exposing it horizontally, you can measure the distance from the ceiling in the circle area to the lower level using a tape measure. It is this width that will require a strip of GCR to form the rim of the central circle.
7th From the drywall sheet is cut along the strip of the desired width. The back side( labeled) is rolled with a needle roller, and then it is wetted with a roller roller with water until the gypsum ceases to absorb water. The main thing is not to overdo it and to prevent drywall from permeating through with water. After about 10 minutes it can be neatly bent.
8 The strip of drywall is applied to the inner side of the circle formed by the perforated profile and screwed into each segment by screws. The work must be done with a partner. The joints of the strips are strengthened by a piece of profile PP 60 * 27 put under them.
I Profile of FR 58 * 27 / UD 28 * 27 is cut into segments of 10 cm, only in this case only the side shelves are cut. Further, it is applied to the lower part of the circle from the gypsum plasterboard strip and is attached by screws TN 25 to each segment.
10 Given the considerable plane of the ceiling, the load-bearing profiles will be stacked in two tiers, the bearing capacity of such a ceiling is higher. The upper load-bearing level of the PP 60 * 27 profiles is laid and fixed on top of the wall-mounted MON 28 * 27 with an interval of 1 meter. At the intersection of the profile with the central circle, its end is trimmed in accordance with the radius of curvature and is also stacked and fastened on top of the perforated circular profile guide.
eleven Perpendicular to the bearing profiles with a step of 50 cm, the lower level of the profiles is laid, which are already inserted inside the wall guide profile PN 28 * 27.When crossing with a circle, the end is cut in accordance with the radius of curvature and inserted inside the perforated profile of the PL 28 * 27 / UD 28 * 27 circle.
12 If necessary, if the length of the profile is insufficient, it is extended with an extension cord.
13 In the intersections of the profiles of the upper and lower levels, two-level connectors( also called two-level "crabs") are installed.
14 On the upper carrier level of profiles PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27, direct suspensions are installed with an interval of 50 cm( just in the middle between the points of intersection with the lower tier of profiles).Suspensions are fixed to the ceiling by two anchor wedges with a diameter of 6 mm. After the installation of all the suspensions, a cord is drawn to the ceiling in the lower plane of the ceiling, all profiles are successively leveled and fixed on direct suspensions with screws TN9 or LN9( 4 for each suspension).After that, the frame is checked and the wiring is brought to the backlight.
15 Gypsum boards are mounted on a frame with a long side parallel to the bearing( top) profiles. This method of fixing will provide a higher rigidity of the ceiling design and will ensure that all end joints of the GCR will fall on the profile of the lower level( the length of the gypsum board is 2500 mm, and the distance between the axes of the profile is 500 mm).The step of fixing the TN25 is 200 mm.
16 In the area of ​​the central circle gipsokartonnye sheets are mounted with a reserve, then to further form a circle of smaller diameter, so that in the formed niche to place a hidden illumination. To draw a circle with the desired radius, a temporary profile is attached to the edges of the GCR in the projection of the center of the circle on the ceiling. It is attached to the previously used compass from the guiding profile and draws a circle of smaller radius than on the stream.
17th A saw blade for gypsum board is cut along the circle line. After that, the edges are treated with a plane for drywall.
18 In order to hide the lamps you need to make a curb. To do this, the profile 28 * 27 / UD 28 * 27 is cut by segments of 10 cm with metal scissors( the cut must fall on the side shelf and back).The profile is attached to the edge of the round opening( with the back down, sharp edges upward) through the plasterboard from below upwards with TN25 screws for each segment. Further, a strip of gypsum board with a width of 5-7 cm( pre-rolled with a needle roller and moistened with water) is attached to this profile.
19 The joints of the GKL are brought in by the ruber, and then a special perforated plastic corner is placed on the joint between the horizontal plane of the ceiling and the vertical plane of the gypsum board strip and is "shot" by the stapler to the plasterboard.
20 End edges of gypsum boards, without tapered edges, are prepared for subsequent sealing of joints. To do this, the edge of the sheets is cut with a construction knife to form a groove. All sticking pieces of cardboard should also be cut with a knife.
21 To improve the adhesion of putty all seams are treated with a primer. Before this, to remove dust, you can wipe the entire surface of the ceiling with a soft, slightly moistened cloth.
22 For sealing of joints GKL use specially designed shpaklevku( ready or requiring preparation) for this purpose. Of the most famous are: Knauf Fugenfüller, Knauf Uniflot, Shitrok, Vetonit and others. Putty is applied to all joints, as well as to those places where there are screws.
23 In the places of joints in the putty the reinforcing ribbon-serpyanka is buried with the help of a narrow spatula. After that, the next layer of filler material is applied and leveled with a wide spatula.
24 Perforated plastic corner and the surfaces next to it are also treated with putty.
25 After grinding, most likely, it will be found out that one more leveling layer of putty will be required. After its application and drying, the surface is once again ground with a grater with a fine mesh( from 400), ground and dyed.
26th The niche is equipped with fixtures, which can be fluorescent lamps, light cord or LED strips. The lamp is suspended in the center of the circle.
Illustration Description of the assembly steps
  • All furniture is taken out of the room.
  • It is desirable to cover the floor with cardboard and polyethylene film, as bridges and stepladder will often be rearranged, and there will also be a lot of dusty work.
  • If the room has a door, then it should be wrapped with polyethylene film and pasted with adhesive tape, and if not, a large piece of dense fabric( for example, an old blanket or curtains) is completely hung in the doorway, completely covering the opening. When dusty work is carried out, the cloth is wetted with water from the spray gun.
  • It is also desirable to close the windows from dust - for this, their entire window opening can be covered with plastic wrap and covered with paint tape. The window sill can be covered with old newspapers or cloth. After completion of work, the room must be ventilated daily.
  • It is advisable to have at least two bright light sources: scattered light - to illuminate the entire room, and directed in the form of a carry - to illuminate the work area.
  • It is desirable to have a mounting table, which can be an old kitchen table or a high platform.
  • For collection of garbage and waste, which will be enough, it is necessary to have a large bucket.
Example 1: Gypsum cardboard box in the kitchen

Let's describe the process of installing the frame of a two-level ceiling in series. As a first example, we will present the process of creating a gypsum board box, which is located above the kitchen countertop. In the box should be built in luminaires, as well as the duct of the kitchen hood. The surface of the ceiling is leveled and plastered, so it was he who chose the first level. We will present all stages of installation in the form of a table.

In the work with gypsum board structures, the most important thing is to understand the very principle of building skeletons and lining their GCR.Then any, even the most complicated ceiling design, can be realized independently.

Example 2: Installation of a two-level ceiling with illumination

In this example, consider the installation sequence of a complex two-level ceiling in which the second level occupies the main ceiling area, and the first level is a round island in the center of which a hanging lamp is mounted. In this ceiling, the backlight function is additionally implemented.

That such a beauty should come out as a result

This kind of beauty should result in the end

Such a non-standard and beautiful solution will be justified only in rooms with high ceilings. Let's describe the technological process of creating such a ceiling.

Video: Secrets of craftsmanship when working with plasterboard and
profile Video: Example of mounting a two-level ceiling
Video: Two-level plasterboard ceiling in the kitchen
Video: Installing a multi-level ceiling, part 1

Conclusion

Drywall is a unique material for finishing,it is interesting because having a very simple set of tools and elementary skills of working with it, any good owner will be able to create his own, beautiful and unique ceiling and other structures. The authors of the article did not pay much attention to seemingly "inessential trifles": fixing, joining profiles, fastening the frame to building structures, designing, marking, etc. The fact is that understanding these "little things", understanding the basic principles of working withgypsum cardboard will help in the future to realize any of their ideas and give their homes a unique look. The best design is one that is made independently and for oneself. The best two-level ceiling is one that is made by oneself. Summing up the article, the authors wish to give several theses:

  • A ceiling made of gypsum board can be made in a couple of weeks, and mistakes made at the design and installation stage will remind themselves much longer - years. Therefore, more attention should be paid to the choice of design and design.
  • Gypsum plasterboard ceiling is a non-separable structure, therefore all engineering communications hidden behind it should be carried out and made flawlessly.
  • Buying gypsum cardboard and components must be done only by well-known brands and from trusted sellers. Unfortunately, there are a lot of counterfeit products on the market.
  • In the dispute between the album of technical solutions of the manufacturer of gypsum boards and the argument "I've done so a hundred times", a single master must win an album of technical solutions.
  • With the independent creation of a drywall ceiling, especially the first time, errors are inevitable, and one should not be afraid of them. A good master is someone who has committed many mistakes, but has realized them, corrected them in time and will not allow them in the future.

Successful repair to you!

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