Grout the seams of tile in the bathroom with your own hands

The final stage in the design of the bathroom tiles is always sealing joints. After carrying out this operation, the tiles are finished and neat.

Grouting of tile seams in the bathroom with your own hands is quite an affordable job for anyone, even an inexperienced master. It is only to start and "fill" the hand - and the further process will go quickly. It should be noted that much in carrying out such finishing works depends on the material selected. So, for those who do not have experience in work, it is better to choose a grout that lasts long enough. Using a rapidly solidifying material, it is possible to spoil the entire appearance of even successfully laid tiles.

criteria of quality grout composition

Joint filler is designed to protect the adhesive composition on which the tiles are laid, the surfaces of the walls and the floor from moisture penetration, contamination, mold occurrence, and for the final aesthetic appearance of the coating. Therefore, without grouting, - finishing material with uncovered seams will not last long on walls and floors, and on the surfaces beneath it will be created a favorable environment for the development of mold and fungus, which sooner or later will hit the ground.

To work with the material it was easy, and the seams between the tiles turned out to be neat and reliable , any grout must meet certain requirements. A mixture prepared from dry formulations or sold already in ready form should have the following qualities:

• The homogeneity of the composition considerably will facilitate the work - in this case it will completely fill all the seams. It is inadmissible that the mixture had hard impregnations having the property to create in the gaps between the "cork" tiles, which will not allow the grout to penetrate the entire depth of the seam, leave air voids.
• The elasticity of the solution will also contribute to the quality filling of the joints, since it will easily be distributed along the indentations and will allow the work to be carried out quickly.
• Durability after curing. Grout should not crumble, and when cleaning - wash out.
• Hydrophobicity of the material after hardening. The joint filler should repel moisture, and not absorb its .
• Resistance to household chemical detergents , as any tile coating requires periodic cleaning.
• Aesthetic appearance. The joints between the tiles must be smooth and tidy, and the shade of the grout should harmonize as much as possible with the color of the tile.

Types of grouts on the material of manufacture

To date, one-and two-component grouts are available for sale, produced in the form of dry mixes, ready-made pastes and solutions. They are manufactured on various basic bases:

• Cement.
• Polymer-cement.
• Cement-sand.
• Polyurethane.
• Epoxy and furan , produced by based on resins.
• Silicone.

In addition, there are grouts that can be made by hand from alabaster, gypsum, cement and sand, clay and lime, sodium "liquid glass" and other materials.

However, the independent fabrication of the material may not be of a very high quality, and the aggregate will simply crumble out of the joints due to the external factors - humidity and temperature changes. Grout, produced in the factory with the observance of all technologies and with the use of special antiseptic additives, undoubtedly is safer than those that will be manufactured at home.

Therefore it is better to purchase ready-made materials, the more so they are quite affordable. And to make grout with your own hands is recommended only in extreme cases.

Get high-quality trowelling compounds from well-known manufacturers!

To make it easier to determine the choice of the mixture, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the overview of the trowelling joints for the joints , which is dedicated to a separate publication of our portal.

Cement-based fillers

Cement-based grout remains the most popular and widely used. They produce most of the famous companies for the manufacture of building mixtures.

Grouts on a cement base can be divided into two types - made with or without sand.

Mixture having in its its sand composition, is used to seal wide joints, more than 4 millimeters. Narrow gaps are filled with softer fine-grained grouts made in combination with polymer components. In the instructions for use on the package, the manufacturer always indicates for which width of the seams the specific composition is intended.

Portland cement is used for the production of mixtures, which has a fine grinding, so that when mixed, the mixture is homogeneous. In addition, in order to achieve the elasticity of the solution, the manufacturer adds lime components to it.

Mixture can be manufactured using water at room temperature, or on a latex base. The latter will have the name of polymer-cement grouting.

Correctly mixed mixture will provide a smooth and even quality seam that not only reliably will close the gaps from moisture, but will also give accuracy to the entire masonry.

Cement-based mixtures can be packed in paper bags or plastic buckets.

Cement grouts can be of different colors. Some manufacturers make the compositions already in color, others have color pigments that are included in the kit and are added only in the manufacture.

If desired, metal "gold" or "silver" powder can be added to the grout - this will make the appearance of the finish richer and give it a specific elegance.

Silicone joint fillers

Silicone joint filler is a one-component compound, packed in special plastic cartridges( tubes) and applied to seams using a construction gun. A similar type of grout consists of silicone with an acid hardener. The material is, in fact, a sealant. It completely closes the seams, moisture-proof and elastic, has antiseptic qualities.

Such filler joints are most often used in combination with other trowelling compounds. Basically, , they fill the gaps only in problem areas, for example, at the joints of planes or in the area of ​​adjoining the bath to the tile, since it has a sufficiently high price and requires a large flow. However, if possible, it can be applied to for all seams, with having any width. Its disadvantage can be called only that the silicone sealant is produced in a poor variety of shades - mostly white or transparent compounds predominate.

Silicone sealant is easy to fill the seams, the main thing is to make the correct cut on the cap attached to the cartridge - it must match the width of the seam, and evenly press the handle of the construction gun. Then the filler will enter the seams in a flat stripe.

Grouts on the basis of resins

• Epoxy filler joints

Epoxy grouts consist of two components - an epoxy compound and a hardener. Mix the solution mass immediately before application.

. This type of grouting is characterized by high strength and resistance to external mechanical influences, as well as increased humidity and significant temperature changes.

Epoxy filler for joints has a very long service life. Such a grout does not lose its original appearance for 45 ÷ 50 years.

After joining the two components of the grout, it acquires a viscous consistency and is difficult to work with. Therefore, if there is no experience in filling the seams, but it is decided to use this kind of material, then it is better to entrust the work to a professional master.

Epoxy grout is recommended to be used in cases where wide, over 6 mm seams are provided between the tile. It fills cavities well and when hardened it acquires a high density, close to the density of the tile itself.

In order to revet the walls and floors where the epoxy filler was applied, it was necessary to choose a high-quality ceramic tile with perfectly smooth edges and corners, otherwise the grout would not hide, but on the contrary, the would underline flaws in the finishing material.

There is a variant of an epoxy filler that includes a Portland cement in its , which acts as a fixer. Working with such a material is identical to kneading and applying a grout, but as it solidifies it acquires the characteristics of a traditional epoxy filler.

An epoxy mixture mixed traditionally or with Portland cement, , if desired, , one of the types of metal powder can be added. In this case, the frame of the tile will turn out to be very original, and especially it will look great if the seams are wide, about 6 ÷ 8 mm.

TSE is obtained for this type of grout is high enough, therefore it is rarely used at home. Basically, the , it goes to work at facing surfaces in industrial workshops and laboratory rooms, where its strength, durability, resistance to aggressive environments are especially needed.

• Filler from furan resin

This type of grout is made on the basis of furanola with the addition of fupfilovogo alcohol. The resulting material during hardening acquires the highest quality of resistance to any impact, , whether chemical cleaning agents, acids, ultraviolet rays, moisture and temperature. The of this material, just like in the epoxy mixture, does not include water, so it completely lacks the property of its to absorb.

When choosing this placeholder, it is necessary to know that it is rather difficult to work with it, since a special approach to the preparation of joint surfaces is required.

The disadvantages of this material can be called its high price and the lack of color variety, since it has a single color - black .

This grout is rarely used to improve the laying of tiles at home, although it should be noted that black color is combined with any of the shades of color. If the tile is qualitative and has no flaws at the edges, then framing the with its with black color will give the finish austerity and the clarity of the .

• Polyurethane grouting

The most convenient type of joint filler is a ready-made elastic compound made on the basis of polyurethane resins and aqueous dispersion, without the use of cement. The solution does not require preparation, since is sold by as a finished homogeneous paste.

It is suitable for grouting joints with a width of 1 ÷ 6 m m m for ceramic tiles and glass mosaic .

The composition of the grout is well distributed in the gaps, filling them completely. After final curing and polymerization, it is well cleaned of dirt and has a high water repellent characteristics.

Joint filler of this type has a rich color range pastel shades, which allows you to choose it for any tile.

Polyurethane-based grout is suitable for sealing seams between tiles on horizontal and vertical surfaces of the bathroom, as well as for other rooms, including heated floors.

Self-preparation grouting for seams

Just in case it will be nice to know a few recipes for the preparation of joint filler at home, as there are different situations from which you urgently need to find a way out. Knowing the composition and technology of making, making a filler for seams is not difficult.

• Cement-sand mixture

The most accessible and simple recipe for the manufacture of aggregates is the use of cement and fine sand for it. They are taken in the proportions of 1: 1 or 1: 2.Two ingredients are mixed in dry form, and then water is added in small portions. The composition is thoroughly mixed and brought to a homogeneous state - , it should have a consistency of thick sour cream.

For the preparation of cement-sand grout, both gray and white cement can be used, and for giving to the composition of certain - pigment pigments can be purchased in dry or dissolved form.

In addition, in the solution can add a metallic powder, which will make it indistinguishable from the one bought in the building store.

To enhance the elasticity of the mixture, latex additives are sometimes added to the of .Thus, we get a classic grout, which will be identical to the produced by in the factory.

• Gypsum plaster grout

The trowelling paste can also be prepared from gypsum, using as a plasticizer additive lime. This ingredient is necessary, since without it the hardened gypsum will be very fragile.

In addition, the lime will prolong the time of hardening of the gypsum trowel. Everyone knows that gypsum quickly seizes and hardens, so do not make a large amount of material - it is best to do this in small portions. After consuming each portion of the grout, before preparing the next, , the container and spatula should be thoroughly cleaned every time, since small and large frozen gypsum particles will interfere with operation.

Gypsum is an unstable material and not sufficiently plastic, therefore it can crumble under mechanical influence. In addition, it is able to absorb moisture, so in the bathroom it is better not to use this grout.

• Alabaster grout

Today, alabaster is not as popular as it was before, but it continues to be used in construction. This material is a kind of gypsum, and if the is more precise than the it is the burnt its variant.

It has always been used to seal joints between slabs, cracks and grooves in the plaster, so earlier its stock could be found in every house. Alabaster has moved to the background after the appearance in the specialized stores of various construction mixtures, which have a narrow purpose and perfectly cope with a variety of problems.

If necessary, it is possible to prepare mastic for sealing seams from this material. The process of its cooking is simple and consists in adding water to the dry alabaster in small portions. Do not mix a large amount of the mixture, as it, like gypsum, quickly loses its elasticity and hardens.

Grout from alabaster is also not very durable - it will not last more than 3 ÷ 5 years. But temporarily its to use its it is possible, if there is a need to close the seams, but there is no possibility to purchase the finished material.

• Clay grout

You do not need to write off material like clay. Not without reason its has always been used for waterproofing works, as it has good hydrophobic qualities. The preparation of aggregate for seams from this material will create somewhat more trouble than when kneading it from cement and sand or from gypsum. Clay requires cleaning and wiping, because it can contain various solid impregnations, from which its needs to be freed. Then, its is soaked, as it must acquire plasticity.

A ready-made, well-kneaded clay mass is added with lime to increase ductility and cement - for faster curing of the grout. Lime and cement are poured very little. The proportion of the solution is, approximately , 10: 1: 1 - the main role in the it is allotted yet to clay.

. For manufacturing, you can use any color material, if is desired, and metal powder are added to it.

Clay is reliable protects the seams from moisture, it is not afraid of temperature drop, and if necessary, from it it will be easy to clean the seams to replace the more professional trowelling mix.

How long does it take to grout the joints?

So, for qualitative finishing it is best to use special compositions of industrial manufacturing. But how many of these must be purchased?

Typically, on the packaging of the trowel the manufacturer indicates the average material consumption per square meter of the tiled surface. However, these data are very approximate, since they do not take into account the size of the tile and the specific thickness of the joints.

Probably everyone understands that the smaller the tile in size, the more its is stacked per unit area and, consequently, the is longer than the total length of the seams. And the required amount of grouting for tiles of various types can vary significantly.

Is it possible to independently calculate the required amount of grout that must be purchased to complete the finishing of the floor or wall with ceramic tiles? It turns out that in this there is nothing complicated.

The general formula can be expressed by the following expression:

In the formula, the letter symbols are denoted by:

R y - Specific grout consumption per square meter Area;

L and M are used, respectively, the length and width of the ceramic tile selected for laying( mm);

h - thickness of the tile( mm);

d - planned width of the gap between the tiles - joint thickness( mm);

k - coefficient, taking into account the density of the mortar mixture of the material. It will not be a big mistake to assume its value is about 1.7 ÷ 1. 8 - for most of the trowelling mixes are exactly the same( in kg / dm³).

The obtained value will only be multiplied by the area of ​​the surface covered by the tile and, for reliability, the still has an order of 10% of the reserve:

Rum = 1.1 × R y × S

S - the area of ​​the surface to be faced with the tile.

Total is the total amount of grout to be purchased( in kilograms).

To facilitate the reader's task, below is posted calculator calculating , in which laid down all mentioned ratios, including 10% - reserve.

Calculator calculation required amount of grout for interlacing joints

tools for grouting

For grouting yourself, some tools and other accessories will be needed:

• Rubber spatula for applicationand deepening grout in the seams.

• Capacities for mixing the mixture and for clean water.
• Screw or special knife for cleaning joints before grouting.

• Narrow paint brush for sweeping from seams separated with knife glue.

• Narrow metal spatula for mixing the mixture.
• Sponge and soft cloth for cleaning tiles from mortar.

• Rubber gloves, as some mixtures corrode the skin.
• Protective mask or respirator. These accessories will protect the respiratory tract when falling asleep and when mixing them.

Stages of grouting

In order to fill the joint completely, reliably kept and protected the tile covering from external influences, it is necessary to carry out some simple preparatory measures. They are carried out after the tile glue has dried completely. The time of its hardening is always indicated on the package - it can be from five hours to two days.

• The first step, the seams are cleaned from the glue that emerged from under the tile. Work is carried out using a special knife or stylist mason. This tool should penetrate the entire depth of the seam, crush the frozen solution, and remove part of it out.

• After going through all the tiled surfaces, you can grasp the brush and begin to sweep out the remnants of the glue paste from the gaps. This process must be done very carefully so that the adhesive particles do not interfere with the good adhesion of the grout to the substrate and the end faces of the tile.
• Clean the in the se the surface of the walls, close the trowel. For this purpose, water is poured into the small with room temperature water. Further, in accordance with the proportions indicated on the package, the dry mixture is gradually added to the water and mixed with water until it is homogeneous with a metal spatula.

Here it is necessary for to sharpen the attention of on the sequence of actions. The dry mix must be poured into the water, and not vice versa, otherwise there will be lumps in the mass, which will be difficult enough to break.

If the instruction indicates a sufficiently long setting time, then the mixture can be made larger. Then for mixing use a large capacity and an electric drill with a nozzle-mixer. This tool t t will internally make the mixture homogeneous.

• Further, the joints should be moistened with water using a spray gun or the same paintbrush. Some masters prefer to treat the gaps with an antiseptic primer instead of water. This process will strengthen the adhesion of materials and facilitate the distribution of the trowelling composition within the seam.
• Grout in the seams should be applied quickly, but very carefully, trying not to smear the its over the entire surface of the tile.

The compound is applied with the help of a rubber spatula with the smears across the seam, with the trying to press the mass as deep as possible into the gap.

Then, with the sharp side of the spatula, the grout is pressed in and distributed inside the seam. After this, the manipulations are repeated several times.

• After confirming that the gap is filled to the limit, use a spatula on the seam, while simultaneously collecting excess grout.

• Thus the lined surface on the area of ​​1,5 ÷ 2 кв² is made out. Then, while the grout on the surface of the tile still is not withered, its is removed with a dry soft cloth or a damp sponge. If the latter is used, the solution is erased by movements that go across the seam, otherwise the mass can simply be removed from the gap. Sponge not only cleans the tile, but also smoothes the seams.

It should be remembered that if you do not remove the excess solution in time, it will harden, and it will be very difficult to clean it, and the surface covered with ceramic tiles will turn out to be sloppy.

• The grout also fills all seams around the outlet of pipes, electric lights and sockets.
• Having completed the work with the walls, you can proceed to the cleaning of the seams on the floor. Further, all the works are carried out on the same principle as on the walls.
• If a smooth tile is laid on the floor and does not have a relief pattern, then the grouting can be carried out with wider movements, using a special tool - grater with a rubber lining.

For application of the composition in this way, the solution needs to be made less dense so that it can fill the seams freely at their full depth.

• However, if the tile has a relief, a textured pattern with indentations, then it is not recommended to act this way, smearing the grout all over the surface.

To seal the seams in this case, it is convenient to use such a device as a special bag with a nozzle of the desired diameter or even a conventional plastic bag made of dense material. It is laid with a certain amount of grouting. Then the corner is cut - the main thing, do not cut it more than necessary, otherwise the cc pr project is repeated .

Next, the bag is attached to the seam and out of it gently squeezes the mass along the entire length of the gap, slightly more than necessary to fill it.

• After the solution has slightly grasped, it is gently tamped with a rubber spatula, passing them along the seam, and left to harden the lower part of the grouting layer. Then, without waiting for the complete drying of the excess solution on the tile, they are removed with a soft cloth or grater .

Cracking grout in the joints

Most often for grouting joints in the bathroom is selected grout on a cement basis. It is she who sometimes leads herself not as we would like, starting to crack and crumble already after a couple of weeks after the works.

This is due to the fact that for its drying conditions were created inappropriate. The reason for the cracking of the joint in the joints can serve as the following:

• When mixing the solution, too much liquid is used. During drying the moisture evaporates, the grout mass volume decreases, and as a result, cracks may appear.
• If the ceramic tile has a porous structure, the water from the cement, soaking in it , breaks the normal hardening and hardening of the composition, so too, cracks may appear.
• The tile is younger on the base, which is not stable. For example, the finishing was carried out on the wooden surface of the house, which still did not have time to fully shrink.
• If the joint filler for the seams is incorrectly selected, for example, the usual cement composition of the white polymer components is applied for sealing joints having a width of more than 5 ti mm.

If there are cracks, then this is fraught with the fact that moisture will fall under the tile. And this, in turn, sooner or later will lead to mold formation. In order to get rid of , will have to dismantle the entire .

If cracks appear, you can try first to clean them and apply one layer of trowel on top of .If this manipulation fails, will need to completely clean the joints, treat them with an antiseptic compound and fill with a new grout.

What should I do to prevent cracks?

In order for the seams to be smooth and not sagged, you need to do all the work correctly:

• Seams should be well cleaned.
• The grout must be uniform and have the correct consistency.
• Before filling the joints, the finished solution must be "ripened", for this purpose, after initial mixing, leave it at rest for 5 ÷ 7 minutes, and then carry out another one batch.
• If the crack starts to appear in the as an wet solution, this indicates that the with the with preparation has been saturated with too much moisture. In this case, the problem can be solved by gently rubbing into the wet joints of the dry mix - , it " will take on itself" excess water and close the t t of the river.
• Do not accelerate drying the grouting, for example, using hot air or, conversely, by arranging room ventilation - this will cause to reduce the strength of the compound and its rapid destruction.
• Some cement-based trowels require periodic moistening during the drying period. If the manufacturer has posted such recommendations on the package, they need to be followed strictly.

When choosing any of the types of grout, first of all, you need to pay attention to the shelf life of the mixture, then to the composition, the method of manufacture and the recommended thickness of the joints. If all these criteria correspond to specific operating conditions, then grout can be purchased and operated with it, based on the recommendations given by the manufacturer.

And at the end of the article - a video-instruction on the correct grouting of interlining seams.

Video: professional advice on trowelling between tiles.