Sewer at the dacha with their own hands

Features of the country sewer

Individual sewerage system can be equipped only if there is a central water supply. In the absence of such, it is better to dig a cesspool and put a country toilet.

If the plot is connected to a water supply, then the house can be equipped with all the amenities - a sink, shower and toilet. Sewage from these appliances must be taken out of the house. To this end, you can put a drive that will be periodically cleaned by a sewage machine, or a septic tank - a special cleaning device that ensures the reuse of wastewater. Moreover, a stormwater can be connected to the main canal, which will accumulate and remove atmospheric precipitation and water formed during the melting of snow.

It turns out that the sewerage in the dacha with their own hands should include:

• plumbing equipment;
• internal sewerage, which integrates drains from all appliances;
• external drainage system for drainage;
• cleaning device.

Stage 1. Project

First a project is made. Drawing can be done on plain millimeter paper, but it's better to use a special utility - it's faster and more convenient. The project specifies the location of the plumbing equipment, pipelines and treatment plant.

Please note! Often, a sewage treatment plant is sufficient for one cleaning device and one outlet pipe.

It is anticipated that other buildings can be connected to the system on site - for example, baths. When calculating the size of the sewer network, the number of residents is first taken into account. It is generally accepted that approximately 200 liters of waste per day are generated from an average person.

In addition, climatic features are taken into account. If we are talking about the northern regions of the country, then the outflow pipe is laid below the freezing line of the soil or is insulated. Otherwise, there is a risk of freezing the system in the winter.

Stage 2. Location of sewage elements

The location of network elements, in particular those located on the street, should be treated with utmost responsibility.

First of all, take into account the terrain. Usually, suburban areas are equipped with a non-pressure drainage system, in which the wastewater is delivered to the site of utilization in a natural way. In such cases, the pipes are laid under a certain slope( of the order of 5 cm per running meter) to avoid stagnation of the drains.

Equally important are sanitary norms. According to them, installation of treatment facilities near wells, wells and other sources of water is unacceptable.

Also, when choosing the location of the installation, the possibility of unhindered access of the sewage machine is checked.

Stage 3. Cleaning device

Ideal option for a country plot is a septic tank - an improved analogue of a cesspool, requiring minimum costs and effort during operation. Moreover, if you install a multi-chamber septic tank, then the treated effluent can be reused, say, for watering a garden or a garden.

There are a large number of models of septic tanks produced by both domestic and foreign firms. Each has its own strengths and weaknesses. Most of all for a summer cottage are suitable septic tanks "Rostok Dachniy"( cost - about 29 thousand rubles) or "Microbe-600"( designed for three or four people, the cost is 15 thousand).But with an insignificant volume of the system, it is more expedient to construct a septic tank independently.

Please note! In spite of being a self-made septic tank or a factory septic tank, the general installation rules are unchanged.

How the septic tank is constructed

The septic tank can be constructed both from finished parts and from scratch, but in any case, competent installation provides at least a minimum knowledge of the principle of the device.

The septic tank is two( less often - three) tanks, connected by the bypass throats. The volume of the first container is larger, if compared with the rest. There are discharges drained from the internal network. It is characteristic that the liquid is in each of the containers for a certain time, during which time it is gradually cleared.

During filtration, gases dissolved in the liquid are raised and discharged to the outside, while solids settle to the bottom and form the so-called activated sludge. In this mud there live anaerobic bacteria, which split organic substances into separate chemical elements and do not need oxygen.

In the upper part of the first tank there is a pipe, through which the treated effluents are poured into the second one.

The cleaning procedure is repeated two to three times, then the liquid enters the last tank, where a sand-stone filter cushion is installed. Through this "pillow" liquid enters the soil.

Please note! To output filtered effluents into the ground, a special drainage system can also be used.

Construction of a septic tank

If you plan to make an independent septic tank, we advise you to opt for a capital concrete structure. Below is the sequence of actions.

Step 1. The required storage capacity of the device is first determined. Ideally, it should equal the 3-day volume of sewage of all the tenants of the house. Thus, if three people live in the house, then the storage capacity should be 1.8 cubic meters.

Please note! The septic tank is installed no closer than fifteen meters from residential buildings.

Step 2. This is followed by digging. Excavation under the septic tank - manually or with the help of special equipment.

Step 3. The bottom is covered by a 20-centimeter sand pillow.

Step 4. Shape forms. The boards or chipboard sheets are reliably strengthened, since the weight of the structure will be impressive. In the formwork a bypass hole is made, for which a small tube of metal or plastic is inserted between the walls.

Step 5. A reinforcing skeleton is formed from the iron reinforcement. Crossed rods are connected by steel wire. It is important that no element of the reinforcement should go beyond the boundaries of the future design.

Step 6. The formwork is poured with concrete mortar, and this must be done in one run. In the process of pouring the solution is processed by a vibrator, this is necessary in order to fill the entire volume, which is limited by the formwork, and remove air bubbles.

Step 7. Overlapping is formed from boards and metal corners laid in parallel. Overlying the laid elements is a polyethylene film. Further, the metal mesh is reinforced. When the base is prepared, a layer of concrete is poured. Also, the overlap can be formed from finished reinforced concrete slabs laid on the walls of the septic tank with a gap of up to 2 cm.

Step 8. The pit is filled with sand and soil layer by layer. On the surface there are only ventilation pipes( height above the ground surface up to 1.2 cm) and lids protecting the neck of the septic chamber.

Please note! For such a design, you can also use ready-made R / B rings. They are installed directly in the pit.

Video - Septic tank from AS / 17 rings

Stage 4. Laying of sewer pipes

As already noted, in most cases pipes on country plots are laid for gravity flow of sewage. Therefore, the installation is carried out with a slight inclination towards the treatment plant.

Ideally, the pipeline should be flat and not bend. If this is not possible, at the corners, inspection wells are installed, through which possible malfunctions will be eliminated.

Please note! When installing external sewage, both plastic and cast iron pipes can be used. The main thing is that they are connected together tightly.

Pipes should lie below the freezing line of the soil. But if there is a permanent bias, then such a deepening may not be required. All is explained quite simply: the wastewater has a plus temperature and does not stagnate, therefore, do not freeze in winter. Nevertheless, with shallow laying, the pipeline needs thermal insulation.

Also, the pipes are protected against possible ground displacements - they are surrounded in a trench by a 15-centimeter sand pillow.

Piping diameter, mm	Slope, cm / m
40-50	3
85-100	2
150	0.8

Step 5. Internal sewerage

When installing internal sewerage, a non-pressure principle should be used. Each plumbing device is connected to a pipe of a specific diameter - for a shell a section of 50 mm is necessary, and for a toilet bowl and an outflow pipe - 100 mm. A siphon is connected to the bath and washbasin, which will prevent the penetration of the sewer smell into the room.

Device	Slope	Distance between central drain and siphon without ventilation, mm	Diameter of pipes for drainage system, mm
Bath	1:30	100-130	40
Shower	1:48	150-170	40
Toilet bowl	1:20	up to 600	100
Sink	1:12	0-80	40
Sink	1:36	130-150	30-40
Combined sink( bath + sink + shower)	1:48	170-230	50
Central riser	100

The alternative. Dry closets

In the absence of a central water supply in the country, you can put a bio-toilet( preferably peat).Such devices are compact and consist of two tanks:

• top, intended for storage of dry peat, also a seat is installed on it;
• bottom, in which the excrement is composted.

The biotoilet needs regular cleaning, but peat waste extracted from the lower tank can be used as a fertilizer in the future.

Please note! In addition to the peat mixture, special bioactivators are added to the construction, accelerating the composting process. The packaging of the activator at 30 g costs about 350 rubles.

Despite the plastic housing, the bio-toilet is strong enough to withstand a weight of up to 250 kg. It is worth noting that there are electric models of such toilets - they are no less effective peat, but also cost accordingly. In addition, they need to be connected to an uninterruptible power supply.

Video - Biotoilet for summer residence