Lacquering value and initial preparation
The lacquering of wooden surfaces emphasizes and emphasizes the natural warmth and characteristics of a particular wood species. On the one hand, this treatment gives additional decorative and surface protection. But at the same time, some types of varnish cover the natural pores of the material, preventing the release of natural phytoncides, odors, etc.
In addition, before you varnish a tree, its surface must be prepared. From the thoroughness of the preparatory work depends the final appearance of the surface and the life of the lacquer coating.
The order of the preparatory work includes several stages. And the first of these is the leveling of the surface. For various products, this can be a planing by planing a planer, a jointer or a cycle. The use of modern power tools greatly reduces the time and effort spent at this stage of work. If in the process found rotten patches and knots, they cut down with a chisel and kiyanki( wooden hammer).
In their place are pasted in inserts of the same rock, preferably selected according to the pattern of fibers, tk.the application of varnish to the tree will emphasize the inconsistency of the sites that have undergone such repair, the general drawing of the wooden surface.
The entire surface is thoroughly sanded with a different grain of sandpaper, successively change the coarse-grained abrasives to fine-grained. It is imperative that the subsequent processing of the wood with varnish gives a good result - grinding is done along the direction along its fibers. Having achieved a smooth, smooth, clean and silky surface, with a uniform gloss, the primary( rough) grinding is finished.
Final preparation of the wood for varnishing
After primary sanding with foam rubber sponge, the surface is evenly moistened with a small amount of water with the addition of joinery glue. After drying for three hours with a fine-grained sandpaper, a fine grinding of the pile that has risen from the surface is carried out. This procedure can be repeated up to three times, depending on the hardness of the wood.
After final finishing, the entire surface is thoroughly cleaned from fine dust. It must be remembered that the processing of wood with varnish will reveal all the shortcomings and negligence committed in the preparatory work. In particular, such dust will be visible on the varnish surface in the form of irregularities and tubercles, spoiling the appearance of the product. Eliminate these flaws in the future will be both more difficult and more expensive.
Speaking of preparatory work, we can not fail to mention the tinting or painting of the surface for varnish. It can be performed at will and is capable of giving additional decorative to the material, imitation of valuable rocks, etc. If you are going to perform toning of coniferous wood, it must be demined. To do this, using a tampon, the surface is cleaned with gasoline, acetone or soda solution.
For ebony toning, wood of pear, maple or birch is the best choice. Under the nut well drained plum, aspen, pine. A toning for mahogany is better beech, walnut or linden. When carrying out toning work, you need to know that the toner heated to 50 ° C is better absorbed into the structure of the material. After toning, the product is well dried at a temperature of up to 20 ° C.Do not dry in the sun or use heaters. The dried product is carefully wiped with a cloth( light polish).
Application of varnish - features and practical advice
Tips how to apply varnish to a tree, a lot. It is best to do this after the final priming and shpatlevaniya surface. The latter operations may be required to eliminate pores and microcracks. Such preparation will significantly reduce the consumption of lacquer and improve the condition of the surface.
Priming can be carried out with paraffins, rosins or beeswax dissolved in turpentine, alcohol or refined gasoline. The priming composition is applied with a stiff brush with a short pile. After this, the composition is strongly rubbed with a cloth. Mandatory drying, as with toning. If the surface required the application of putty, it is well dried and polished by the methods described above.
Painting with wood varnish is carried out with a swab of cotton wool wrapped in cheesecloth or linen cloth. Such tampons will require several, so it is better to prepare them in advance. The varnish is poured into a tampon or "charged" into it from below. Tampon movements during lacquering should go along the fibers, overlapping the edges of previous strokes.
You can not tolerate streaks and sagging, carefully rub the lacquer. The coating of the wooden floor with varnish does not occur quickly. The application of the first layer ends with its drying( about an hour).Then, grinding is carried out with a fine-grained sandpaper, completed by grinding the cloth and carefully sweeping away the dust. The next layer of varnish is applied with a new tampon.
If necessary after drying, polishing and cleaning with a cloth is performed. The obligatory, final stage is the coating of the wood with the last layer of lacquer. The final drying is carried out with closed windows and doors to prevent air movement and accidental dust.