How to lay a facing brick

Advantages of the

The distinctive feature of the facing( or as it is also called, the facade) brick is that it is precisely sized. So, with a certain skill, the masonry will look very neat. And it will be easier for a newcomer to pack such material.

Application of facing bricks

Before facing other types of exterior finish( siding, clinker tile, natural stone), facing bricks have the following advantages:

• Suitable for walls, made of any material: foam blocks, concrete, aerated concrete, ordinary brick, wood.
• High strength, and hence, durability.
• Large selection of colors, textures and sizes opens up a lot of space for design solutions.
• The fact that the facing brick is hollow inside, gives a small load on the foundation.
• Good frost and moisture resistance.
• High aesthetics of the material.

Types of masonry and their features

By the way the bricks are arranged in a row, there are three main types of masonry:

1. Bed( front): the facade is the largest side of the brick - its "bed".
2. Spoon: the facade is the long narrow side of the brick( spoon).
3. Pimping: visible from the outside of the end of the brick - a poke.

Types of masonry

The alternation of the facets of bricks in one row, as well as the alternation of rows with each other, gave rise to a variety of styles and types of masonry in terms of decoration. In addition, there are grades of facing brick, provided for a specific type of masonry( the kit consists of sets of different-sized bricks).There are four main decorative ways of laying bricks:

1. Dressing "in half brick" - a classic masonry( spoon or bedding), in which vertical seams are displaced horizontally by half a brick.
2. Flemish bandaging - in the same row alternate spoon and stump types of clutches.
3. Stacking - vertical seams are arranged in one line.
4. American dressing - alternating rows of bouncing and spoon( sometimes bed) masonry.

If briefly to characterize each of the species, then the "half-brick" dressing is recommended for beginners who wish to finish the wall on their own. This type of masonry requires minimal skill. Stacking is the least durable, so do not put any structural problems on it. Flemish dressing is most often used to imitate European design, as well as when decorating interiors."American" is considered the most durable.

Types of masonry

Instrumentation

Competent laying of facing bricks is impossible without the necessary set of tools. You will need:

• Trowel( popularly referred to as trowel) is a steel spatula with a handle, used for applying mortar, removing surplus, leveling bricks.
• Construction level - in order for the rows to leave even. It is better to stock up in two levels: a long one( at least a meter) for determining the evenness of the row and a short( 30-40 cm) for determining the position of a separate brick.
• Building cord - as well as the level will help determine the evenness of the rows.
• Bulgarian and diamond discs for it - used for cutting facing material.
• Hammer( can be with a pick) is used for neat splitting of bricks. Professional handlers sometimes use a weighted trowel for this purpose.
• A metal rod with a square section of 10 * 10 mm will help to make the seams between the rows neat.
• A metal rod with a circular cross-section of 10 mm in diameter is used for embroidering.
• Anchor bolts and crochet wire will be needed for the bonding of the bearing wall and liner.

Preparation for laying

A few points to consider before proceeding directly to laying the facing brick.

The substrate must be flat

The facing brick is placed firmly on the base. Therefore, if you are building a house "from scratch", then provide a socle with a width 3-5 cm more than the width of the cladding. The stock is required for an air gap between the wall and the lining, the usual 25-30 mm.

If you are going to renovate an already erected house, the construction of which did not take into account the possible facing, then the plinth will have to be increased.

The reliability and general appearance of your future cladding depends on whether the base is smoothly poured. Therefore, before you start laying, measure all the areas with a level. In case of critical distortions, remove any irregularities with cement mortar. Immediately before laying, sweep the base and clean it of debris, sand, small stones and other foreign elements.

Of course, if the work with the facing brick goes inside the room, then take care not about a level socle, but on an even floor covering.

A bit about the

binding The facing wall must necessarily be connected to the carrier. Most often, for the ligament, use anchor bolts or a binding wire.

A bunch of anchors means that they are driven from the inside of the wall in such a way that its outer end protrudes between rows of bricks( inside the seam).In this case, pay attention to the thickness of the anchor: it depends on the thickness of the seam and should be about half as much. That is, with a joint thickness of 10 mm, an anchor with a diameter of 4-6 mm is permissible.

The wire harness is made as follows. Dowels are driven into the supporting wall, and in them the wire is fastened so that its outer part lies between the rows, but does not protrude to the outside of the cladding.

The frequency of installation of such fasteners is usually 5-6 per square meter. That is, horizontally they should be separated by 50-70 cm, and vertically by four rows. However, such ways of ligament are more suitable for those who are going to improve the facade of a long-built house. When building a house from scratch( made of brick, foam blocks or aerated concrete), a wire or plastic masonry net is used, fixed between the rows of the bearing wall. And its flexible protruding parts fit comfortably between rows of facade bricks.

Solution - the entire head

A properly mixed solution is at least half a beautiful and durable lining. For facing walls advise to use cement with high frost resistance and weather resistance. Usually this is M500 or M550.The difference between these brands in the rate of solidification. M500 will suit a newcomer, laying brick at a leisurely pace. The M550 is chosen by those who are confident in their skills and who work fast.

It is desirable to use fine sand. It is stirred at a rate of 4: 1 - four parts of sand and one part of cement. Water should be poured in small portions and thoroughly mixed until the mass becomes homogeneous. The solution should be thick enough. This parameter is checked very simply: roll a small ball 10-15 mm in diameter from the solution. If it keeps the shape well and does not disintegrate, then the desired consistency is achieved. Also, do not forget that the lining solution still dries quickly enough. Therefore, do not mix a lot at once - you will have scrupulous work.

We proceed to laying the

Next, we formed a step-by-step instruction for laying the facing bricks.

Step 1. The bottom row.

Before laying bricks for a short time soak in water so that they do not pull moisture from the solution. Since the length of the wall is not always a multiple of the number of bricks, the bottom row is traditionally laid without a mortar so that you can trim the brick if necessary. However, as we have already said, professionals do not advise violating the integrity of the cladding. The complexity can be bypassed with the help of fine adjustment of the thickness of the vertical seam: its increase or decrease by 1-1.5 millimeters in most cases will allow to combine the length of the wall with a certain number of whole bricks. Nevertheless, people who are unfamiliar with styling, we still advise to do in the bottom row without a solution.

Step 2. The angles of the

The laying always starts from the corners. They need to lay out on a height of 5-6 rows. To do this, put a square rod on the outer edge of the already folded bottom row. Take a trowel solution and gently apply it on the bottom row. Align the layer and lay the brick on top so that it densely lays on the metal rod along its entire length. Apply the level and, if necessary, pound the side of the brick with the handle of the trowel, which is skewed. After you achieve horizontal evenness, carefully remove the rod and remove the excess solution. Then, repeat the operation on the other side of the corner. In this way, raise the desired number of rows.

Step 3. Laying the rows of

Next, you will have to directly wall lining. Between the corner bricks of the second row, pull the building cord and fix it over the bricks. This cord is the level of your second row, all the bricks in this row should lie with the top edge flush with it.

Arrange the bricks of the second row nearby. They should stand on the end. Put the square rod on the bottom row and apply the solution by analogy with applying the solution on the corners. Applying a trowel a bit of the mixture on the ends of the bricks at hand, they are neatly stacked in a row. Each brick is pummeled by the handle of the trowel, so that it stands exactly "on the cord."After the bricks are laid on the entire length of the rod, it must be carefully removed.

In this way, putting and taking out the rod, and using the cord as a level, you will move along each row.

Step 4. Slopes

Slopes of window and door openings are most often laid in accordance with the angular principle or by stamping. But often use a brick of a different color to give a variety of finishes.

variant of facing of corners and slopes

Let's admit also a ledge of a detached brick in relation to the general level of facing.

Step 5. Jointing

After you have packed 5-6 rows, you need to stop. First, the solution must be seized, so that you can continue to stack the upper rows without fear of deformation. Secondly, while the mixture is not yet completely frozen, it is necessary to make the seaming of joints - their decorative alignment.

First remove the crumbs of the solution from the facade, trim the liner and moisten it with water. A special mortar of cement, lime and sand is needed for the shearing. Cement and lime are hindered in equal proportions, and then add ten parts of sand. All this is diluted with water to make a paste-like mass. This mass and it is necessary to fill the seams.

In the description of the instrument we mentioned a metal round rod with a diameter of 10 mm. The classic bar is semi-arched, so you can use a rod. However, there are many types of cords. To give the seams the right shape, use a special tool, which is called - basting. It usually comes with different attachments.

What you should not forget

In conclusion, I would like to mention a few nuances that can not be forgotten when laying facing bricks:

• The slope can be completed immediately. First, there is not too much stress on the seam. And secondly, it will save time on rearranging the scaffolding.
• Check every 3-4 rows of bricks along the entire length with a level. So you can minimize misalignments.
• If the lining is made indoors or even with a ready repair, then the same technology is observed only with the utmost care.
• Ensure that there is no debris between the load-bearing wall and the lining. It must remain empty for better ventilation and thermal insulation.
• Try to get rid of dirt on the front of the bricks as quickly as possible. Wipe them with a sponge or a rag at once - afterwards it will be very difficult to get rid of these blots.