Warming of walls from inside with mineral wool plus plasterboard

The comfort of living in any house or apartment is in direct relationship between and from a properly planned, efficient heating system, and degree of thermal insulation of the building. It is completely pointless to spend a lot of money on energy carriers, if insufficient or poor-quality thermal insulation does not ensure minimization of heat losses, and heating devices spend a significant part of their power on the to anyone the does not need "street heating".

One of the "main ways" of heat leakage from living quarters is the external walls that do not have sufficient thermal insulation. Well owners of private homes - they remains the ability to mount external insulation. But not everyone is free with such an optimal choice, and we have to look for other approaches. It would seem that nothing particularly difficult - you can arrange the insulation of the walls from inside with mined plus plasterboard, the layer of which will become the basis for decorative finishing. This method of thermal insulation, as they say, "has the right to exist", however, not everything is

just as seems at first glance.

Insulation of walls from inside with mineral wool - the activity is quite contradictory, it melt many "pitfalls" of .And it should be resorted to only in extreme circumstances, when there is absolutely no possibility to perform thermal insulation from the outside. Let's try to figure out, in than the drawbacks of this approach, and how to minimize them.

A few words about the insulation - mineral cotton wool

First of all, we will consider the property of a warming material made in the title of the article.

Mineral wool as insulation material in industrial construction has been used for a long time. With the advent of new mined products , which led to increased product quality, reduced harm to humans and the environment, the scope of application has expanded significantly, and its is actively used for thermal insulation in residential buildings.

It should be well understood that the concept of mineral wool hides several its types, which have significant differences, and not all varieties are applicable in a residential building. The main parameters are summarized in the table, but a few words about each of the species still need to be said.

Parameter name	Rock wool	Slag fiber	Glass wool
Miniature
Average fiber diameter, μm	from 4 to 12	from 4 to 12	from 5 to 15
Hygroscopicity of the material for 24 hours( no more)%	0.95	1.9	1.7
Dimensions	no	yes	yes
Coefficient of thermal conductivity, W /( mK)	0.035-0.042	0.46-0.48	0,038 -0,046
Sound absorption coefficient	from 0.75 to 0.95	0.75 to 0.82	0.8 to 0.92
Presence of binder,%	2.5 to 10	2.5 to 10	from 2.5 to 10
Sintering temperature, ° C	600	250-300	450-500
Application temperature limit, ° C	up to 1000	up to 250-300	from -60 to +450
Inflammability of the	NG - non-flammable	NG - non-flammable	NG - non-combustible
Emission of harmful substances in combustion	slightly	yes	slightly
Heat capacity, J / kg * K	1050	1000	1050
Vibration resistance	moderate	weak	weak

There are three main types of mineral wool.

• The is known to all glass wools - , obtained by melting quartz sand or glass battles. From the weakened mass, fibers with a thickness of about 5 ÷ 15 μm and a length of 15 to 50 mm are stretched, which are then compressed using light and elastic mats using a binder component. Usually glass wool is easy to distinguish from other species in color - for it is characterized by yellow shades.

Material - chemically inert, not rotted, will not become a nutrient medium for any forms of biological life. Disadvantage - fiberglass fibers are very brittle, tart, and can cause severe skin irritation when laying the material. The same quality predetermines the undesirability of using glass wool in residential premises - microparticles of fibers can carry with dust, enter respiratory organs, cause allergic reactions or asthmatic attacks in people suffering from x x with rhonchial diseases.

Thus, it is not worthwhile to use glass wool to insulate the internal surface of walls in living quarters.

• Шлаковата - the second representative of this class of heaters. We will not talk much about it - for the thermal insulation of the residential premises , it is not suitable. There are many reasons for this. In addition to the drawbacks inherent in glass wool - brittleness, tartness, dust formation, slag is the most hygroscopic, gives the biggest shrinkage with loss of insulation qualities. In addition, a lot of questions to it and from the point of view of environmental cleanliness. itself for its manufacturing - blast furnace slags, sometimes have a very ambiguous composition and even a radiation background, while the increased acidity paired with moisture absorption creates a very aggressive environment, especially destructively affecting the metal parts.
• If you already take mineral wool for internal insulation - then only basalt( stone).It is compared to others - the most durable, elastic, its fibers are not so brittle, do not cause skin and mucous irritation. At the same time - it's all absolutely without loss of insulation qualities - the coefficient t is not worse than the glass wool.

Stone wool is also capable of absorbing moisture, but the 's hygroscopicity index is the lowest in the .The binder in the process of manufacturing such mineral wool completely is polymerized by , and can not present a significant danger to the human body( of course, if the comes about quality, certified products of well-known manufacturers).

Basalt wool is extremely convenient in laying - mats or slabs from on it well hold shape, easily cut, some ones can be fixed on walls with the help of building glueit is very important for high-quality thermal insulation).

. What is extremely important for living areas - basalt wool belongs to the group of noncombustible and non-combustible materials, and its heat resistance is the highest among all heaters produced in the form of panels, slabs or mats.

In a word, basalt stone wool, with the available to it, becomes the only right choice.

Let's turn to the theory - "pitfalls" wall warming from inside

So, if complies with certain technological rules, basalt mineral wool can be used for insulation works both outside and inside premises. Why, then, are there so many opponents of carrying out thermal insulation from within?

Probably, many have put "bright spots" on the facade walls of high-rise buildings. The owners of apartments, not satisfied with the degree of thermal insulation of the walls, are at considerable expense to use external insulation.

It is almost impossible to perform such warming independently. It is necessary to resort to the services of companies, in the staff of which there are experts in the field of industrial mountaineering. Agree that such works at the height, which include the preparation of the wall for thermal insulation, and the installation of insulation, and quality finish - can not be cheap . Nevertheless, the , many people go for it.

By the way, in order to perform such external insulation of the walls of the apartment, the is still facing and with administrative problems.- you need to obtain permission from him. And there is no guarantee that "good" will be received. So, the refusal can be motivated by the violation of the appearance of the building or the style of the street decoration, especially if house is referred to as an architectural monument or part of a single urban ensemble. No permission will be obtained if the apartment is adjacent to the technological deformation joints of the building, to the elevator shafts, to other elements of the building structure. In a word, there are a lot of difficulties in this matter, even with the required material assets in the presence of .

So why not conduct internal insulation, because there is a mass of advantages of ?

• The execution of the work is not tied to the by the time of the of the year and to weather conditions - carry it out when you want.
• Work on internal insulation, at first glance, requires much less cost - both in terms of acquiring materials, and in terms of the possibility of their own, without recruiting specialists.
• In addition to insulation, the walls receive the as an and effective sound insulation.
• Works can be carried out step by step, from one room to another, to the extent possible and necessary.

However, the whole "rosy picture" of the seriously corrupts the with the drawbacks of the similar method of insulation:

• Carrying out work temporarily paralyzes life in a particular room and disrupts the convenience of living in others - you have to move furniture, the apartment will inevitably carry garbage.
• The total costs for the insulation of external walls can be not so small - this entails for itself, in addition to thermal insulation measures, still and large-scale works to restore or even complete the renovation of the interior decoration of the room.
• Internal insulation will oblige owners to radically revise the system of high-quality ventilation of premises.
• Insulation of walls from the inside is always a loss in the useful area of ​​the rooms.
• and the most important thing is the - conducting such warming, the owners, winning in one, receive the "time delay" - a high probability of the appearance and spread of dampness, mold, fungus on the closed walls that not only the drives the to unpleasant smells,but also represents the a specific danger to the health of the tenants.

In addition, in the damp walls, the processes of decomposition, erosion, corrosion of the building materials from which they are erected appear much faster and develop.

Consider the main flaws in more detail.

Is there a significant reduction in the area of ​​the room?

It would seem - how much space can "steal" the insulation of walls from the inside? But this - only at first glance seems insignificant.

Take the for an example of a room measuring 5 × 3.5 meters. Useful area its - 17,5 m².

For example, in the room - two external walls( item 1), requiring insulation. As a thermal insulation is applied layer of mineral wool( item 2) 50 mm thick. On top, it is covered with plasterboard lining( item 3) in one layer - this with mounting and putty will take an additional of about 15 mm. The total length of the two sides of the room decreases by an average of 65 mm( even if you do not take the possible curvature of the walls - in this case the difference will be even more).

Calculate the area: 3,435 × 4,935 = 16,95 m².Total total loss of useful space in the room, which is already small in size, was 0.55 m²! And , in calculation was taken, as already mentioned, the theoretical straightness of the walls and the minimum thickness of the insulation - only 50 mm.

If we add to this the forced transfer of heating radiators, the expansion of the window sills, the losses look very significant. In a spacious room, you can somehow optimize the space, reducing the consequences of such losses to a minimum. But in a cramped kitchen where sometimes, is every centimeter, getting out of the situation will be more difficult.

But this is, as they say, everyday problems, which can be dealt with "little blood."Much of the is more serious than the with respect to issues lying in the plane of thermal physics.

Balance between high-quality insulation and formation of

condensate. This is where the most vulnerable place of internal insulation of walls lies. And the main "enemy" is water, passing their vaporous liquid state( condensate) in the to a particular meeting point for internal heat of rooms and cold from the street. The condensate formation has its name - "dew point".

The dew point varies nonlinearly with and depends on many factors - humidity level, outside temperature from the inside, wall construction and materials used.

should clearly understand that the level of absolute humidity in residential areas is often higher than in the open air. This is explained simply - in addition to the general humid background, depending on the climatic conditions of the area, the season, the established weather and , ., A considerable amount of air vapors that are formed in the process of everyday life of a person is added to it. These include exhaled couples, cooking or boiling water, reception of water procedures, wet cleaning, washing and drying clothes, and in some cases even special humidifiers are used to improve the comfort of living.

constantly occurs in residential houses. Excess humidity always requires of a specific output, in order to maintain the overall balance. Part of the problem is solved by airing the rooms or by operating the ventilation system. But still a very large number of water vapors find their way through the walls. Most building materials have good vapor permeability - they are said to be "wall breathing".Under optimal conditions, the pairs penetrate the fences and freely escape into the atmosphere, unless, of course, they "come across" the dew point.

One of the main tasks for thermal engineering calculations of enclosing structures is to bring the dew point as close as possible to the outer edge of the wall or even beyond its limits into the layer of external insulation. Then, if complies with certain conditions, the condensed moisture will simply evaporate into the atmosphere, without causing any damage to the wall structure.

Much worse, if the dew point falls on the inner surface of the wall. The moisture begins to accumulate, leading to negative consequences, which have already been discussed above. In addition, if the wall is closed from the inside mineral wool heater, then it begins to die, losing its thermal insulation and sound-absorbing quality.

How to achieve such a state of affairs that when internal insulation "kill two birds with one stone" - provide the necessary total resistance to heat transfer and eliminate the formation of condensation on the walls? Alas, in the declared conditions, in the absence of a qualitative external thermal insulation, this task is not feasible in principle. And it's rather a question of minimizing the negative consequences of such a method of warming.

There are special methods for calculating , which allow to determine the optimal design of the heating system of walls. Their main principle is based on the fact that in order to fill the heat losses of the building, the total value of the thermal resistance of the wall structure must correspond to the tabulated parameters calculated for the climatic conditions of the of this region. The table itself took in the article a lot of space, so it is better to bring the RF card diagram, which indicates the required thermal resistance values ​​for walls, ceilings and roofing. Us in this case is interested in the first value, for walls - it is shown in purple figures.

The value of thermal resistance R ( m² ° With / W) of the wall structure, having, for example, n layers is calculated by the formula:

R =R1 + R2 + . .. Rn

In this case, the Rn value for can be calculated from any of layers by the following ratio:

Rn = hn / λn

hn - specific layer thickness

λn - coefficient t STI material of the finished formed layer.

The coefficient value is a tabular value that is easy to find on the Internet.

Having calculated the resistance of each layer, it is possible for the to calculate the and the temperature drop on its outer and inner surfaces, and this will allow estimating the location of the dew point.

However, similar exact calculations of are usually carried out by specialists, the formulas are rather complicated and cumbersome, and not everyone will be able to do it. This task is not in front of us now. But in order to argue the thesis about the undesirability of warming from the inside, let's take an example of how a brick wall of 1.5 bricks( 380 mm thick) will behave with different variations in the location of the thermal insulation.

All circuits show two lines. Black - is a graph of temperature changes in the thickness of a wall structure. Blue is the temperature chart of the dew current. Accordingly, the point of their intersection or coincidence is , then the is the place where condensate will form abundantly. All calculations of are carried out from winter conditions - the temperature inside the apartment is + 20 ° With , outside - frost - 20 ° C .For estimation, let's take the value R = 3.24 m² × ° With / W, which corresponds, for example, to the region of the Middle Volga region, for which the such temperatures are the average statistical norm.

With , the calculates that the defined with thermal resistance has indoor air( average 0.13 m² ° with / W ) and outside( 0.04 m² With / W ).

A. " Naked" outside and inside of the brick wall

1 - brick wall , h = 0. 38 m

The graphs do not intersect - condensation will not form. But the insulating qualities of this wall do not meet the requirements - the heaters will t t spend a lot of energy on heating the wall, eventually - the heat evaporates out. We look at the table:

Material of layers of the wall structure	Thickness, [cm]	Thermal resistance, [m² ° C / W]	T inside, [° C]	T outside, [° C]
Total	38	0.75
Indoor	0.13	20	13.03
Masonry	38	0.58	13.03	-17.85
Street	0.04	-17.85	-20

The resulting total value of R = 0.75 does not even close to the desired value 3.24.

B. Plastered outside wall

Plaster layer( 2) with an average thickness of about 10 mm practically not makes the any changes. True, the temperature and dew point charts began to approach .

Material of layers of the wall structure	Thickness, [cm]	Thermal resistance, [m² ° C / W]	T inside, [° C]	T outside, [° C]
Total	39	0.76
Indoor	0.13	20	13.12
masonry	38		0.58 13.12 -17.35
Cement plaster	1		0.01 -17.35 -17.88
Street		0.04 -17.88 -20

B. Outside placed insulation layer

What happens if this wall insulate 10 cma layer of mineral wool outside.

2 - a layer of basalt mined 100 mm thick.

3 - windproof diffuse diaphragm, providing free exit of steam outside.

The graphs are at a safe distance from each other, that is, the formation of condensate in the thickness of the wall is completely excluded. Most likely, it will be formed on the outside of the insulation, but if there is a ventilated facade, the moisture will simply freely evaporate into the atmosphere.

Let's look at the thermal characteristics:

Material of the layers of the wall structure	Thickness, [cm]	thermal resistance, [m² ° C / W]	T inside, [° C]	T outside, [° C]
Total	48.1	3.25Indoors
	0.13	20	18.4
masonry	38		0.58 18.4 11.31
Mineral wool	10		2.5 11.31 -19.48
Windbreak sd = 0.1	0.1	0	-19.48 -19.51
Street		0.04 -19.51 -20

Even at a low enough temperature the wall does not freeze - on the its outer surface is + 11 degrees. The total resistance to heat transfer R = 3.25 completely corresponds to the desired value.

G. Same, but with gypsum plasterboard finish inside

It is clear that the brick wall inside the premises is finished. What will happen if you add to its with a layer of plasterboard mounted on the glue.

1 - plasterboard thickness 12 mm.

2 - brick wall .

3 - mineral wool

4 - windproof membrane.

Obviously, the heat engineering characteristics of this design have not changed much - the vapor permeability has remained at the same level, the probability of condensate formation is practically nonexistent.

Material of layers of the wall structure	Thickness, [cm]	Thermal resistance, [m² ° C / W]	T inside, [° C]	T outside, [° C]
Total	49.3	3.31
Indoor	0.13	23	21.62
Plasterboard	1.2		0.06 21.62 21.02
masonry	38		0.58 21.02 14.92
Mineral wool	10		2.5 14.92 -11.56
Windbreak sd = 0.1	0.1	0	-11.56 -11.58
Street	0.04 -11.58		-12

An example is shown more for clarity of the fact that drywall and itself is an thermal insulator .Even a thin layer of 1.2 mm increases the total value of R = 3.31 - this is already quite a decent rv for in this area. Probably, this is the best option, which should be implemented with capabilities.

D. Insulation inside

And now it turns to the essence of our question - let's try to "move" the same layer of mineral wool into the room and cover it with a layer of plasterboard. What a picture we get:

1 - plasterboard 12 mm.

2 - mineral wool 100 mm.

3 - brick wall .

4 - layer of plaster( as we saw, it does not have a particular effect has )

And the picture is bleak. Starting from the center of the heating layer and up to the outermost edge of the wall, a blue area is highlighted: on the all the this section will form a condensate - the temperature graphs coincide. Thus, the vapors penetrating from the premises will be transferred to the liquid state already in the insulation and on its boundary with the wall. Mineral cotton wool will be supersaturated with moisture, lose its insulation qualities, and the increased humidity of the wall will cause a whole bunch of negative consequences, about the than the has already been told.

Material of layers of the wall structure	Thickness, [cm]	Thermal resistance, [m² ° C / W]	T inside, [° C]	T outside, [° C]
Total	50.2	3.32
Indoor	0.13	20	18.43
Plasterboard	1.2	0.06	18.43	17.74
Mineral wool	10	2.5	17.74	-12.44
masonry	38	0.58	-12.44	-19.4
Cement plaster	1	0.01	-19.4	-19.52
Street	0.04	-19.52	-20

With good, it would seem, total heat engineeringcharacteristics, such insulation is much worse, and even represents a danger to the building. Look at the graph of temperature - the thickness of the wall remains negative, that is, the wall freezes almost through. Taking into account that during winter temperature fluctuations( at thaws) the probability of condensate formation in the thickness of the wall structure is high, with a sharp cooling and freezing of water, the fence will experience significant internal loads - which is the way to the appearance of cracks, erosion and , .

E. Thermal insulation from the outside, and inside the

To bring complete clarity to the question, consider still one situation. Suppose, from the outside, the house already has thermal insulation, but seems insufficient to the owners of , and they assume at their own risk to supplement it with internal thermal insulation.

For clarity, we leave the same thickness minvats both outside, and inside.

1 - drywall.

2 - mineral wool 100 mm.

3 - wall

4 - mineral wool 100 mm.

5 - wind protection.

The picture is clear - on the border of internal insulation and the wall, the is created a very vulnerable site, where the graphs are very dangerously close, and with a high humidity level, the formation of condensate here is very likely.

Material of layers of the wall structure	Thickness, [cm]	thermal resistance, [m² ²C / W]	T inside, [° C]	T outside, [° C]
Total	59.3	5.81
Indoor	0.13	20	19.1
Plasterboard	1.2	0.06	19.1	18.71
Mineral wool	10	2.5	18.71	1.48
masonry	38	0.58	1.48	-2.48
Mineral wool	10	2.5	-2.48	-19.71
Windshield sd = 0.1	0.1	0	-19.71	-19.72
Street	0.04	-19.72	-20

And why such a risk? The total resistance to heat transfer R = 5.81, and such values ​​with a small margin will be in demand only in the coldest region of Russia - of Yakutia. There is an unreasonable use of materials, a thickening of the wall structure, the loss of the area - due to completely unnecessary indicators.

Let's try to reduce the layer of mineral wool inside, to trace the dynamics of changes in temperature graphs.

Everything is the same, but the internal insulation is 50 mm.

It is obvious that without any significant loss of insulation qualities, the probability of condensate formation is sharply reduced.

Material of layers of the wall structure	Thickness, [cm]	Thermal resistance, [m² ° C / W]	T inside, [° C]	T outside, [° C]
Total	54.3	4.56
Indoor	0.13	20	18.86
Plasterboard	1.2		0.06 18.86 18.36
Mineral wool	5		1.25 18.36 7.38
masonry	38		0.58 7.38 2.32
	10	Mineral wool 2.5 2.32		-19.63
Windbreak sd = 0.1	0.1	0	-19.63	-19.65
Street	0.04	-19.65	-20

In this caseermicheskoe resistance remains at very high levels - R = 4,56, which is more than enough for any European country.

About than does it say? Even if, in the opinion of the owners of the dwelling, there is a need to supplement the external insulation with the internal one, it is not worth pursuing the excess thickness of the thermal insulation layer - the larger it is, the higher the probability of the dew point falling onto the inner surface of the wall or in the layer of the insulation. Excessive insulation is not only absolutely meaningless, but also increases the chances of getting "all the charms" of the from raw walls.

It is necessary to perform calculations of to determine the required thickness of internal insulation. It is possible that they will show - additional thermal insulation is simply not required. And then the reasons for insufficiently comfortable conditions will have to be looked elsewhere:

• It is possible that there are shortcomings in the heating system - there is not enough total heat output.
• Another option is the unsatisfactory state of the windows and the ropes through which cold air constantly flows.
• The reason can also be covered in illiterate ventilation - together with air exchange a large amount of heat is expended.
• It is necessary to pay attention to the thermal insulation of floors and ceilings - these are also the "favorite" ways of thermal losses of the building.

How to calculate the required thickness of minnow for internal insulation?

The calculation formula has already been given above. It is necessary to calculate the thermal resistance for each layer of the wall structure, subtract from the normalized value( flowchart ), and the defect should fill the insulation. Knowing its coefficient and thermal conductivity, it is easy to determine the required thickness.

To facilitate the work, readers are invited to use the built-in calculator. It is programmed for calculations by in exact accordance with the subject of the title of the article - mineral basalt wool from the inside, and then plasterboard sheathing in one or two layers. It will be necessary to specify material and wall thickness, and also , if they have - type and thickness of external insulation and additional layers ( for example, trim).It should be borne in mind that, calculation of should accept only those layers of wall structure that are located to airlayer ventilated facade. For example, if the building is lined with siding or decorative panels with the ventilation gap left between them and the wall( insulation), then this decoration will not have any tangible effect on the thermal conductivity of the entire fence.

Calculator for calculating the thickness of mineral wool to insulate the wall from inside

Note that as a result calculations can result in the value of the negativewith a minus sign. This means only that no internal insulation for the wall is required. The reason for the lack of temperature in the rooms should be sought in another area - this has already been mentioned above. Whichever thickness of the inner insulating layer in this case is provided for - not one degree, the air temperature in the room will not rise. But such unreasonable actions can bring a lot of troubles - the microclimate in the apartment can deteriorate noticeably.

How to minimize the negative qualities of internal insulation?

Probably, after reading the previous sections in sem already it became clear that the optimal location of the thermal insulation layer - on the outside of the wall. And what if after the calculations the is still warming up, and it's impossible to perform it outside? How to minimize possible negative consequences of wall warming from the inside?

1. First of all, it is necessary to block the water vapor from penetrating the room into the inner insulation layer and then into the wall structure. Principle p n growth - there will be no active influx of gaseous moisture - nothing will form a condensate.

For this, the insulation layer on the outside is closed with a vapor barrier layer. In principle, for these purposes, you can use the usual polyethylene film, but it is better to purchase a special vapor barrier membrane. More this vapor barrier layer will work more effectively if it has a one-sided foil coating or so-called reflective reflective layer( such roll materials are manufactured and sold especially for rooms with high humidity, for example, for baths).

It is very important to achieve maximum sealing of this layer. Cloths are laid overlapped with with obligatory gluing of joints with waterproof tape( foil-foiled membranes are used, respectively, foil adhesive tape ).

When installing the vapor barrier, special attention is paid to the possible ways of penetration of moist air - these are the lines of adhesion to the ceiling and the floor, to the adjacent walls, to the window and door openings of the .These "bridges" are eliminated by the fact that both insulation and vapor barrier should, if possible, be carried out with at least a small approach to the adjacent structure - these places can then be hidden by decorative finishing. If this is not possible, then the edges of the vapor barrier foam should be installed adjacent walls, the ceiling and the floor and tightly glued without leaving cracks.

2. In the case of internal insulation of walls, it is still better to pay attention to thermal insulation materials having vapor permeability ability lower than that of the wall structure. For these purposes, the use of sprayed polyurethane foam or extruded polystyrene foam, made in the form of special slabs with lamellas , for the most dense laying will be optimal.

3. Any insulation, including blocks of basalt wool, must be pressed against the wall with the maximum density, so that there is not even the slightest gap. The optimal solution is to do the installation not "on dry", with laying between the rails of the frame, but with the use of a special adhesive designed specifically for thermal insulation work of the .

4. For insulation of insulated from inside of external walls it is necessary to use exclusively moisture resistant gypsum board - GKLV .It is easy to recognize by the greenish shade of the leaf surface.

5. AND, finally , for rooms where internal insulation of walls is applied, necessarily requires good ventilation so that there is no "steam room" effect due to of natural due to .

Some tips for improving the ventilation in the room

The increased humidity in the room, especially in the winter, usually gives itself an active fogging of windows on the windows. Why can fog up plastic windows , and how can we fight this phenomenon - in a special publication of our portal.

One should note the one more time. In hot summer weather, external conditions are often formed so that the absolute humidity outside exceeds the similar to the inside the of the premises( especially in those rooms where air conditioners work).

Such a moisture balance can lead to the effect of reverse diffusion - the pressure of saturated vapor on the street reaches such values ​​that the walls of the house begin to flow water vapor in the opposite direction. Is it necessary, in this case , to provide a vapor barrier insulation on the outside?

Specialists for this account are unanimous - the external vapor barrier only hurts. First, reverse diffusion is not so pronounced in absolute quantitative terms and in time. Secondly, this phenomenon is typical for of warm summer temperatures, which in themselves contribute to the rapid evaporation of the excess into lags. If the façade is allowed to breathe, the normal balance of with will in itself be restored, and moisture will not cause harm. But the excess of the steam in the interior of the premises, characteristic for cold weather, can cause much more trouble, and the insulation from it must necessarily be fenced off with the vapor-proof membrane.

Video: hidden dangers of internal warming of walls with mined

Features of wall warming technology mined from inside

So, if circumstances compel you to mount mineral wool thermal insulation on internal walls with subsequent plastering them, then the work is carried out in with the following order.

• Thermal insulation is best dealt with in the warm time of year, in the established dry weather - the humidity balance with with the shade will be optimal .
• The wall is cleaned of all old decorative coatings - paints, wallpapers, decorative plasters. The task is to get to a layer of wall material or a quality rendered plaster, the stability of which does not cause any fear.

Cleaning methods can be different. Wallpaper and decorative plaster is better to begin with a good soak, after that they should be easily removed. The paint is removed manually, heated with a construction hair dryer, flushing, mechanical cleaning using electric hand machines.

• After removing the decorative layer, not plastered wall check the quality of the coating. It is necessary to tap it - as it may reveal discolored areas that are not visible to the eye, which should be removed. All formed or identified cracks and cracks are cut for further filling with a repair composition. If there are projecting protrusions - they are knocked down to the general level of the surface.
• After cleaning the wall and removing dust and debris from the surface and from the exposed flaws, it is necessary to perform the of its "treatment", even if no obvious signs of mold are found. To do this, use a special load nt hl slim penetration, which includes antiseptic additives.

Primer is applied with a roller, and hard-to-reach places - corners, cracks, crevices, grooves are carefully treated with a brush. This is necessary for high-quality repair work.

• After the soil is completely absorbed and dried, it is necessary to proceed to repair the wall surface( if it requires it).The goal is not at all to make the wall absolutely smooth, but it is unacceptable to leave with its deep flaws - condensate will inevitably accumulate in these places.

It is possible to apply ordinary cement-sand mortar for filling slots and grooves, however it will dry for a long time, and it is better to purchase special repair fillers, in the form of dry mixes, two-component compositions or ready for use.

After filling in the flaws, they are compared to the general surface and left until the repair patches are completely dried( polymerized).

• The next step is the next priming of the whole surface with an antiseptic penetrating compound that will provide, in addition to the "treatment", good adhesion when applying insulation boards .It is best to do the priming in two layers.
• Now you can proceed to the markup. Vertical lines are cut off on the wall, along which guide rails for plasterboard will be installed. The distance between the lines should be 400 or 600 mm - this will ensure the fastening of GKL sheets having a width of 1200 mm. The layout of the lines is planned so that adjacent sheets of gypsum plasterboard are joined precisely by them.
• On the floor, adjacent walls and on the ceiling, the lines for which will be and then will be fenced off will mount the framework under the drywall. The correspondence of the lines to the ceiling and the semi inspect the with a plumb line, and the vertical lines on the side panels must connect them. The distance from the wall to these lines should be no less than the calculated thickness of insulation.

You can immediately mount these guides along the PN 28/27 guide profiles, which will then be fitted with vertical posts.

• Direct attachments are attached to the wall. They are positioned along the axis of the severed vertical lines at a distance of 400 ÷ 500 mm from each other. The side perforated bars are bent perpendicular to the wall.

Recommended under the under the weight to install a lining of a piece of plastic or plywood - this will smooth the vibrating and low-frequency sound vibrations from the outer wall, minimizing the cold bridges. Suspensions are attached using dowels.

• It's time to move on to laying basalt mineral wool plates. As already noted. The best solution is to install them on a special glue.

The composition is diluted according to the instructions attached to it to the desired consistency.

• Each plate is preliminarily fitted to a specific section of its installation, and in the right places, it cuts through which perpendicular perforated strips of straight hangers are bent perpendicularly.
• The glue can be applied to mineral wool slabs along the perimeter with several slides in the center, but the as on the with the is pre-prepared and aligned with the , it is better to use the toothed spatula. The height of the ridges is 10 mm. The glue is spread over the plate in this case throughout its area - from this, the performance qualities of insulation will only benefit.

• After applying the adhesive composition, the plate "is pierced" on the suspensions through the cut slits and tightly against the wall with its entire surface. The surplus glue that comes out on the sides is immediately removed.

The boards with all are covered with the same order. It is necessary to lay the plates without gaps, as tight as possible one to the other. When laying it is recommended to follow the principle of "brickwork", that is, to shift the vertical seams by about half the width or length of the plate.

After full coverage of the entire wall, check to see if there are any crevices left. If necessary, gaps can be covered with cut wedges of mineral wool.

• Do I need to fix additional plates with the - "fungi" dowels? In the case under consideration, this is not at all , since the minvata will be pressed against the wall by vertical frame guides, especially if the selects a step of setting them to 400 mm.
• Go to the frame assembly. The vertically suspended struts cut into the desired size are placed in the control profiles with ends, and then with the help of self-tapping screws they are fastened to them and perforated strips of straight hangers protruding through the miner .After fixing the racks, the bars are bent to the sides and pressed into the minivat .

• Very often another approach is practiced - first completely mount the carcass structure, and then between the vertical posts lay mineral wool. But with this method of insulation it is very difficult to avoid the formation of cold bridges.

frame In addition, , when installing mineral wool on the adhesive, the insulation efficiency is much higher, and the remains between the insulation layer and the wall where the condensate can collect. But the "dry" laying more is suitable for or for wooden walls, or when creating partitions, where minvata plays rather than insulating, and soundproofing role.

• The next most important step is the creation of a vapor barrier. The membrane is attached to the controllers of the frame - for this you can use two-sided adhesive tape, and if the frame is wooden - the staples are staples. Cloths should overlap each other by at least 150 ÷ ​​200 mm( on many films of of this type are applied special control lines).

Waterproof construction tape is glued along the overlapping lines, which must securely seal the .When using membranes with a reflective layer, it is directed to the side of the room, and overlaps are better to be glued with foil tape.

• vapor barrier sheets It is very important to seal the vapor barrier at the transition points to the floor and ceiling surfaces, adjacent walls, door and window slopes. Free, "rinsing" edges of the - membrane are inadmissible. It should be run on the contiguous plane and there reliably is glued to the surface without leaving gaps.

The figure shows several options for sealing the edges of the vapor barrier membrane.

• Under the symbol "a" - scheme, in which the layer of insulation( item 1) partially comes to the next surface. This is the most optimal option, providing reliability thermal insulation of corners. The membrane( item 2) repeats the configuration of the insulation and then is sealed to the surface with a special adhesive tape( item 3).
• Scheme "b" - when the transition of the insulation to an adjacent plane is impossible - on the it comes only the membrane, and its edge in the same way is attached to the surface.
• In the "in" - , the membrane is approached by a door or window escarpment. Ideally, slopes also need to be insulated, and then closed with a common vapor barrier.

After the vapor barrier layer is installed, it is possible to proceed to the installation of gypsum plasterboard and then to the subsequent finishing.

Installation of gypsum plasterboard wall cladding

Installation of gypsum board surface after wall insulation and final assembly of frame is carried out by according to general technological rules. In order not to repeat, you can direct the reader to a special article of the portal devoted specifically to the work with gypsum cardboard walls and partitions.

What conclusions can be drawn?

It is recommended to resort to internal insulation of walls only if there is no possibility to mount a thermal insulation on their external surface. When running t t is required to adhere to the calculated thermal insulation parameters - the excess in this matter will bring only harm. The main feature is the creation of a maximum reliable vapor barrier barrier. But even so, the is certain that the walls can start .

And the "cheapness of the matter" is very doubtful. If you consider how much effort will be required to restore or completely renew the interior decoration of premises, the total costs can also be quite impressive.