Dry floor screed with own hands

For all, probably, people, any repair in their house or apartment is a considerable stress. The habitual course of life is disrupted, one has to experience a lot of everyday inconveniences and, moreover, to continue the struggle against the spread of construction mud and dust for .If repairs are carried out by in a new building, then is for sure , future tenants literally on days ago consider to be and it will be possible to enter its area with full-fledged owners.

In short, the shortest possible repair time( without loss of quality, it is clear) in all cases is the first desire of homeowners. Modern construction technologies with the use of the latest materials come to the aid - some technological processes are produced several times faster. One example is a dry floor screed. This is an excellent solution where the level drops are too high, and the use of self-leveling liquid formulations is impossible, or when special requirements are imposed on the

thermo - and floor sound insulation. How difficult is it to perform a dry floor screed with your own hands? Let's try to figure it out. ..

What is a dry screed?

If someone thinks that the dry screed is extremely innovative product of building technologies, it is very much mistaken. By the "age" of its application( in a slightly different form, of course), it is much older and concrete, and the more self-leveling and polymer-containing screeds. Since the old of , a technique has been used where a natural insulating material( sawdust, dry leaves or needles, ash ash or coal slag and , , is densely packed between the floor lags).Then the front wooden cover was set on top - the floors turned out to be even, and the warm .And at the same time - no "wet" work!

So the current dry screed is a modernized technology that has been known for a long time, but, of course, using advanced materials that provide both high performance characteristics of the floor and ease of installation.

So, let's take a look at the schematic structure of the floor made using the dry screed technology:

• section. Positions 1 and 9 designate, respectively, the capital floor floor( or the concrete floor of the ground floor) and the vertical wall of the room.
• On the rigid , a layer of waterproofing material, for example, a polyethylene film ( item 2), is necessarily spread.
• Mandatory condition - compensation gap between " puff " floor construction and the main wall. This is achieved by installing a gasket made of porous plastic - a compensating tape( key 12).
• The "dry component" of such a screed( item 3) is a poured, evenly distributed compacted and leveled backfill layer of their granular fine filler( most often claydite).

• Over the dry backfill, the panel floor elements are laid. Ready-made systems( kits) usually use two-layer gypsum-fiber plates( item 6), which have a special "lock" part at the edges - for reliable connection of neighboring elements.

• The floor elements are joined together by glue( item 4) and with self-tapping screws( item 5).
• You can lay the appropriate substrate( item 7) and the selected finish coat( item 8) over the dry floor screed laid on the technology.
• The previously left gap between the wall and the "dry screed" is closed by the plinth at the end of the of the finishing floor( item 11), and it must be fixed exclusively to the wall( key 10).

We deal with the merits and demerits of dry ties

The dry screed has already acquired certain popularity, but still the "threshold" of bias and alertness to it still is not fully overcome .Many owners of housing, perhaps because of insufficient information, are not in a hurry to opt for this technology. Let us try to make our contribution to the matter of eliminating prejudices.

What are the main advantages of a dry screed:

• With the device of floors for this technology, the total weight of all materials is much less than when pouring a "classic screed".This gives the tangible savings and strengths, and the tv and transportation of all the necessary and with the lifting on the floors.
• Work on the installation of a dry screed does not require any additional equipment - just a hand-held tool. Neither productive mixers for kneading a large amount of mortar, nor especially , concrete mixers are simply not needed.
• The technology of floor filling with solutions based on cement always requires sufficient long-term, sometimes even up to 1 month, to harden the screed, complete its strength, reduce the humidity to of a certain level. When installing a dry screed this defect is not present - to proceed to further stages of work can be done immediately after the completion of the installation of GVL elements. This greatly reduces the timing of construction or repair work.
• The of the hosts have the possibility of a fairly flexible planning of the repair work. The fact is that when carries out the work of on pouring wet screeds, this process, as a rule, covers all the rooms at once and, accordingly, for a long time completely paralyzes all other "manifestations of activity" in the apartment. But when the device is dry screed work can be carried out in stages - for example, moving from room to room .Moreover, in very large rooms it is possible even to divide them into zones, with a consequent "closing" of the plots. The quality of the resulting coating from this in no way will not suffer.

• The absence of "wet" processes with this technology is a big plus for those who are most afraid of breeding the inevitable building mud. Of dust, of course, will not be able to get rid of, but this is less of a nuisance. And the dust from dry claydite filling is not as allergenic as that gives dry cement. This is very important in cases when the family has people who are prone to asthmatic attacks or with an allergic predisposition.
• If there is a need for any screed device, this implies a sufficiently large thickness of the floor being created - in no way less than 20 - 30 mm. When pouring with any mortar of similar thickness, this will give a very large mass, and therefore - an additional load on the overlap. Not in all buildings and not under any conditions, this is permissible, especially in houses of old construction. Using the same backfill helps to largely solve this problem - the its weight is incomparably smaller.
• Dry claydite filling itself is excellent thermo - and soundproofing. Therefore, the floor, made by on dry screed technology, also acquires these useful performance characteristics. So, the coefficient of the of the conductivity should not be higher than 0.12 W / m × ° To , and the backfill thickness of 30 mm gives the a noise level drop of about 40 dB .
• Despite the 's on , the seeming "flabbiness", the instability of a dry, filled layer, the resulting floor will have high strength properties. If everything is done correctly, with observance of technological recommendations, then the distributed load on the floor area, for example, from the installed furniture, can reach up to 1000 kg per square meter. The resistance to point application of force and temporary dynamic loads is also very high - the coating must withstand a force of about 400 kg without deformation.

By the way, the -like strength allows even to construct on the semi light interior partitions, for example, using a frame made of metal zinc-plated profiles and sheets of gypsum board. More powerful walls, for example, from paso-comb gypsum panels or from a brick, of course, on the floor of a dry screed will be unacceptable.

• The great convenience of the dry screed is still and in that in such a floor it is very convenient, with sufficient thickness of the layer, to covertly place various engineering communications or corrugated pipes with wiring cables.
• As already mentioned, after finish the installation of the floor using the dry technology, you can immediately go to the flooring of the selected finish coat. At the same time, there are almost no restrictions on its type - the will fit any of the existing , with, of course, respecting the specifics of the preparatory work for each of them.

It would be unfair not to mention the disadvantages of the floor made by the method of dry screed, and some restrictions on the use of this technology:

• There is no point in arranging a floor for such technology in very tight rooms - in such conditions it will be incredibly difficult to achieve the right,uniform and dense distribution of dry backfill.
• No matter how insulated is from above, but it will always be very afraid of dampness or spilled over over lu of liquid .If water can penetrate through the top decorative coating into the backfill layer, then with probability it will be necessary to remove the floor - the moisture itself will not evaporate anywhere, and means can appear smell of dampness and other consequences of wetting. In short, if there was a risk of water entering the floor, then the dry screed should be discarded.

• can not be done without dismantling the coating. Do not consider a dry screed as an option if any permanent dynamic loads are planned in the room. So, it is not that will suit for rooms with a high intensity of human flow, for dance or training halls, game rooms in pre-school establishments, it is inadmissible in rooms with a high level of vibration. Its scope spread - quiet residential or office space, here it fully justifies itself.
• Never perform a dry screed in cases where the building project indoors provides a slope of the floor surface at any, even a small angle to the horizon.
• Dry screed is not suitable if it is planned to place water or cable heating in the floor. The only option is to lay film infrared heaters on top of the dry screed.

What and how much to purchase for the device dry ties

It is necessary still once to emphasize one important point. A dry screed is not just that dry backfill that is distributed by the over the .The general concept includes the entire complex of materials, which was shown in the diagram above, ( except for skirting boards and finishing coat only.)

Here some options are possible - for example, in selecting the backfill option. For example, under certain conditions, it is more advantageous to use fine expanded clay or expandedsand( perlite), crushed blast-furnace slag or even fine-gravel gravel, moreover, there are situations when the condition of the original floor covering is such that it does not require absolutely no leveling.it will be possible to do with extruded polystyrene slabs that are covered with the same GVL floor elements from above and this will also be considered a "dry screed."

And GVL panels are not a dogma either.instead they are often used OSB sheets or moisture resistant plywood, thin asbestos-cement slabs - all that has the necessary strength, smoothness of the surface and at the moment is the most economical option for the owners in terms of purchase.

Nevertheless, , in conditions of private housing, construction or housing repairs, the most popular are ready-made kits produced by some leading manufacturers of building materials. A typical example is a whole line of similar "dry ties" from the famous company Knauf .

The company's specialists have developed four technological sets of dry screeds, each with its own individual characteristics, which received their names from the first buys of the alphabet Alpha, Beta, Vega and Gamma. For the conditions of a residential house or apartment with the need to level the foundation, the "Vega" set is considered to be optimal. That's it and it is worth considering how the variant for I self-mounting a dry floor screed.

To help the reader understand how much material should be purchased for work, consider an example in which the Vega set( OP 131) is prepared for a rectangular room with a length of 5 and with a width of 4 meters( total - 20 m²).The planned thickness of the backfill is 40 mm.

So, for work you will need:

1. A layer of a film waterproofing .In some sources, there may be a mention of some kind of special membrane - especially one should not believe this. The usual polyethylene film, rather dense( at least 200 μm thick) is used, so that it can maintain its integrity under the influence of dry backfilling.

Such with film should completely cover the whole surface of the floor, with a vertical approach to the walls, approximately , at 150 mm. In addition, adjacent bands of foam are necessarily stacked overlapping, too for 150 - 200 mm. Thus, you can proceed based on the calculation that for 1 square meter trpl area we buy with a margin of approximately 1.15 m² film .Very often its is sold folded in the form of a kind of "pipe" - then it will be possible to divide its into one wide canvas. Otherwise, the price of the film is very low, so if you want it you can leave for it and in two-layer form.

2. Edge damper tape. The importance of this component of the kit has already been mentioned - it will compensate for possible variations in size and volumes dry screed.

Available in rolls with a width of 100 mm, and with length 20 m .The required amount is for the length of the perimeter of the room. In the case under consideration, the perimeter is 18 meters, that is, one roll will suffice.(Usually they are realized as whole, without cutting along the length).

3. Dry backfill for the floor .Here are a few options. Depending on the proposals in the local construction company, or based on the material cost considerations, it is possible to purchase a different type of backfill.

• The most popular among the masters and full trust of the parent manufacturer Knauf uses the backfill Computer .Most often - Belarusian production. At its is very qualitatively sustained a claydite fraction - in the range from 1 to 4 mm, the granules have rounded trimmed edges.

. This allows to achieve excellent homogeneity and the same backfilling density at of its leveling on the floor surface. Very praise of this composition and for the fact that it practically does not give dust when working.

• Another fully agreed with the technologists " Knauf " dry composition is the filling "Kerafloor" .

On a large account - almost the same for quality, for operational characteristics, but produced by another manufacturer( also in of Belarus ).The for at is slightly lower than on "Compatit " - approximately 215 руб. per bag( 40 liters) against 230.

• would seem , the best option for dry backfilling is would be proprietary, more precisely, licensed - " Knauf ".By the way, it is the most expensive of all - , the same 40-liter bag will cost for about 280 rubles.

However, contrary to the laws of logic, scolds it much more often than the already mentioned Belarusian compositions " Compavit " and " Keraflur ".Apparently, the problem is still with the specific manufacturer, and not with the trademark. And so, note that such a backfill and dust higher, and the composition is less uniform in size fractions. Perhaps someone has the opposite opinion - he got a branded backfill of excellent quality.

• And here the backfill « RDS » quality is unequivocally inferior. It's true, it is produced in more bulk bags, 50 liters each, so the price per bag is about 250 rubles - it's easy to calculate that this is the lowest cost of the material.

This backfill requires the necessary claydite fraction, apparently, by crushing large granules, therefore its composition is very heterogeneous, contains a lot of dust.

• In serious stores will not be offered to the "Vega" set, but nevertheless cheap variants of backfill can be caught on eyes, which are often not even specified by the manufacturer.

True, and the inscription on the package - does not deceive. There are no special restrictions on the size of the fraction here - from 0 to 5 mm, that is, from dust and fine sand up to freely large grains .Usually is - screened , wastes of expanded clay production that have passed the stage of crushing. Such heterogeneity gives and extreme dust in the process of working with backfilling, and difficulties with leveling, and large shrinkage after the completion of the laying of the floor. In any case, if it is possible to avoid the use of such a backfill, it is certainly worth choosing a better one.

Video: what zasypku better to choose for dry screed

In different sources, you can find an estimate of the required amount of backfill in kilograms or in liters. Liters and manufacturers and buyers operate more often - nevertheless volumetric the measure is perceived easier. So, it is easy to imagine that 40 liters of material, 50 mm - 50 liters and will be needed to create a 40 mm backfill layer on an area of ​​one square meter.

As part of our example for 20 m² and a layer of 40 mm, 800 liters of backfill, that is, 20 standard bags, will be required. Of course, you should create at least a 5% reserve, that is, buy 21 bags of 40 liters.

And here is completely "economize" and use as a backfill any construction waste or slag from the boiler room, yielding to the persuasion of "knowledgeable" people - the last thing. Such a floor is guaranteed will begin "to make noise" and "play" in the very near future - this will be facilitated by the inevitable uneven shrinkage of the material. So all the "savings" can then turn into the need to rework the cover completely.

4. Gypsum-fiber floor elements « Knauf ».

For the floor covering over the poured layer, it is optimal to use prefabricated elements, which are a two-layer structure made of ordinary( GVL) or waterproof( GVLV) gypsum-fiber sheets.

There are several varieties of floor elements. However, the panels " Knauf " with dimensions of 600 × 1200 mm, 20 mm thick, proved to be the most convenient ones. At the edge of each of the panels, providing a mounting ledge( folds) - for more convenient interfacing between them. The width of these mounting folds is 50 mm.

In some cases it is more convenient to use floor elements 1500 × 500 mm. Their structure, except for their dimensions, does not differ in anything.

Acquire floor elements, usually even with a 15% reserve, because, in addition to fitting to the desired size, will have more and trim the folded part in the places where the panels fit the walls.

In our case: one panel 1200 × 600 mm gives 0.72 m² floor area. If you divide by the size of the total area of ​​the room( 20 m²) and add the necessary stock, we get 32 ​​elements with a small rounding.

5. Adhesive for mounting GVL

There is nothing to invent here - the usual glue PVA will be fine with this task. The consumption will depend in many ways on how economically the glue t will be rushed. In any case, a liter per area should be enough.

6. self-tapping screws for fixing the floor elements to each other.

The Vega kit includes, as a rule, branded self-tapping screws Knauf MN 3.9.They are characterized by two-way thread, sharp self-piercing tip, which does not require pre-drilling, countersink( self-heating ) countersunk head. Similar fastening elements are successfully used for fastening GVL-elements among themselves, and for mounting more complex structures using a metal frame - the screws are able to drill holes in galvanized profiles up to 0.7 mm thick without drilling.

Such self-tapping screws are available in a total diameter of 3.9 mm, a length of 19 to 45 mm. For the installation of a dry screed, the length is seen to be optimal at 19 or 25 mm - there is no risk of damaging the film or the communication lines( if any) ..

Approximate consumption of self-tapping screws - 10 - 12 pieces per square meter space. It is best to take a small margin. Often they are sold in packs of 1000 pieces in a pack - probably, there are the wounds and get the packaging - even if there is a surplus, such consumables are always needed in the household.

• In fact, that's all, but many masters recommend not to be limited to simple installation of floor elements¸ and perform still and its priming, and putty inter-panel joints. To do this, you can also use the product " Knauf " or other suitable formulations. But in the set of dry screed "Vega" these components, as , as well as repair mixtures to bring the starting surface in order, are not included.

Let's sum up the for the required quantity of materials and their cost.(Prices are taken from the price list of one of the leading Moscow Internet trading platforms of the building profile. The price level is as of April 30, 2015 year ).

No.	Material name	Unit of measurement	Unit price	Amount per 1 sq. M.m	Total required quantity including reserve	Total cost
1.	Polyethylene film	m²	10	1,15 m	23 m²	230
2.	Edge banding "Knauf"	roll 20 m	300	-	18 m( one whole roll)	300
3.	Dry backfilling "Compavit"	bag 40 l( 24 kg)	230	40 l( 1 bag)	21 bag	4830
4.	Floor element "Knauf" gypsum 1200 × 600 × 20	pcs	310	1,4 pcs	32 sheets	9920
5.	Adhesive PVA	kg	150	-	1 kg	150
6.	Self-cutter "Knauf" MN 3.9 × 25	Pack( 1000 pcs.)	320	12	≈ 320 pcsIe the whole package)	320
TOTAL	15750
On average, for 1 square meter	788 rubles

In addition, you need not forget another about one position - about the tools by which the distribution of dry filling composition and its leveling will be carried out strictly on a horizontal level. If a shovel is sufficient for distribution, then a more accurate operation requires a beacon system and a rule.

The peculiarity of dry screed technology is that beacons should not be permanently fixed - they are exposed on the horizon "on a temporary basis", and after equalization of the backfill are subject to withdrawal. For these purposes, is the most optimal option - galvanized steel profile 60 × 27 mm, which is used most often for suspended ceiling structures. It has a length of up to 3 meters ( is convenient for of lighthouse) , sufficient degree of rigidity of its shape and fluted vertical shelves - also very is convenient for work by rule, since it will be easy, without any hooksmove on them.

But, of course, the most convenient option, which is used by professionals - a special mobile system of adjustable guiding and screed rails. They are made of light and strong aluminum alloy, are equipped with their own water levels, and it's a pleasure to work with them when backfilling a dry screed.

There is such a professional kit a lot - more than 15 thousand rubles, and for one-time work to acquire it, of course, there is no sense. But if you persevere, in large cities, , if you want , it is possible to take such a rental package for 1 - for 2 days. On and, of course, ordinary painting and plastering tools - trowel and spatulas of different widths, wide and long grater ( wooden or of expanded polystyrene) - it is very convenient for local tamping( compaction) of dry backfilling.

Well - for small details: a construction knife, scissors for and gluing polyethylene film , gloves, probably, it makes sense to protect the respiratory system from fine claydite dust with a respiratoror at least a gauze mask. For carrying out preliminary and final cleaning, a powerful( best of all - a special construction) vacuum cleaner will be very useful.

procedure. Actually, the description of the composition, the main of the receptions of the dry screed laying and the of its components takes much more time and space than the "process map" of the installation. The process itself, in fact, quite simple, although some nuances, of course, should be known.

Video: floor installation using dry technology

Preparation for installation of dry screed

Before starting work, it is necessary to thoroughly "inspect" the floor surface in the room where the dry screed will be laid.

• All the remnants of the previous coating are carefully removed from the surface( if any).It is necessary to get to the "healthy" foundation - stable and stable.
• If on the concrete floor there are weak sections of - loose, crumbling, flaking and , ., It is necessary to remove them.
• The surface is cleaned of construction debris and dust.
• The necessary repair work is being carried out. They consist in the fact that large excavations, potholes on the surface are embedded. If there are significant cracks and cracks, then they need significant cracks and cracks, then they need significant cracks and cracks, then they need significant cracks and cracks, then they need to be repaired with repairing compound, putty, silicone sealant, and in some places, with large volumes of , sometimes it is more advantageous to apply the even the mounting foam.

It would seem - nonsense, because the floor all will be equally filled with dry matter, so why carry out a preliminary repair? The fact is that after covering the surface of a polyethylene with film under it, there may be voids in such places. But this is already fraught with several consequences. For example, a film in this place can break, violating the conceived waterproofing. Further, when the film ruptures at this point, the loose composition penetrates down into the cavity, and this can cause unevenness, the adhesion of the floor elements to the backfill and the appearance of creaks. Yes, and in general , to leave a hidden cavity( in which anyway will begin to accumulate condensate ), as a potential source of dampness, unpleasant odor, and even places of development of microflora colonies - not the most reasonable option. It is easier and safer to carry out the simplest repairs.

Special evenness is not required here - the repair compositions are roughly deduced from the general level of the concrete floor. It is clear that there should be no sharp protrusions capable of breaking through the polyethylene film.

• If a dry floor screed is to be installed in the old wooden floor( t is also possible), it is necessary to check the stability of the coating throughout its area. If there are signs of subsidence, fluctuations and ., It is necessary to repair the log or floorboards, so that the reliability of the basis does not cause any suspicion.

• After repair work and thorough cleaning it will be very useful to primer the surface. Use on the concrete semi-primer deep penetration with an additional antiseptic effect and will further strengthen the surface, and increase the its hydrophobic properties, and prevent the appearance of mold in a closed dry screed space. The treatment of wooden flooring with special compounds will significantly raise their durability, prevent rotting or the appearance of insects nests.
• Some experienced masters strongly advise not to be lazy and do not save on trifles, and if necessary, carry out an easy repair of the lower part of the walls of the room - where the entire "pie" of the dry screed will be located. This is important in cases where the walls have significant curvature, uneven " serrated " or wavy surface in places of contact with elements of dry screed. This in time can give a subsidence of dry backfilling, and means - and the general instability of the coating along the walls. It must nevertheless be assumed that the wall should be flat hotkeys would be up to the upper level of the created floor.

Laying steam - waterproofing membrane and damper tape

The next step is to lay polyethylene film over primed and completely dry floor area, after regular cleaning with removal of debris and dust residues.

• If the dimensions of the room and the existing film allow it to lay its with a single solid canvas - excellent. If not, the adjacent strips should overlap to a width of at least 150 mm, with the sizing of the top seam with a quality construction tape.
• The walls are provided with a mandatory allowance, so that the top edge of the film remains would above the surface of the created dry screed. Usually enough about 150 mm.
• When spreading films , you should try not to leave the volume "bubbles", the jammed of the film - it should lie as flat as possible.

• If the dry screed is laid on the old wooden base, it is wiser to use a non- film , but a construction paper impregnated with tar. Lay its exactly according to the same procedure - with allowance on the walls and with mutual overlapping of adjacent strips.
• The next mandatory operation is the installation around the perimeter of the room with an elastic damping tape. It can have a self-adhesive backing, protected by paper backing. Then everything is simple - the tape is glued to the bottom of the wall so that it completely covers the entire thickness of the future dry screed and a few protrude over the at its level.

Very often you can find a situation where the adhesive layer on the tape itself is not enough for its reliable fixation on the wall. It's okay, you can proceed as follows. First, the tape is installed on the walls, as it will, and then immediately fixed with a small amount of dry backfill. Its is sprinkled with a strip along the walls and gently pinned to the damper belt.

How to fill the filling layer

The following stages of installation of a dry screed - the creation and leveling of the bulk layer and the laying of floor elements, over a large account , in most cases are an indissoluble part of the process. Very often the work of is carried out by the by the zonal method - both these operations are performed, and only then should go to next site. In this article, the separation of these technological techniques of into two different sections is made solely to facilitate the perception, so as not to confuse the novice master.

So, the next task facing the workers is to distribute, compact and perfectly level a layer of dry expanded clay fill. Since to the horizontal nature of the dry screed - special requirements, it is clear that without a system of lighthouses can not do. And here we must immediately make a very important observation.

In numerous publications on dry screed technology, no-no, and there are detailed methods of creating a stationary lighthouse system, using self-tapping screws or with embedding the guide profiles into the slides of the solution. In a word, the one that is used for the usual cement-sand pouring of the floor. Apparently, someone, once without understanding the intricacies of the process, launched this misinformation - and she went for a walk through the Internet, "conscientiously" copied from one article to another, misleading novice masters who could simply spoil this method done a large-scale work of .

Remember! It is very important! With a dry screed device, the beacons can only be temporary, and must be removed after leveling, before assembling the rigid floor panels.

This is very easy to explain. Strength properties of the floor using dry screed technology will be achieved only if the GWL elements are dense, with their entire surface, adjoin to the leveled backfill layer. From the shrinkage of the material - there is no way to escape, it will be anyway, but will pass this process evenly over the entire area( using, of course, the quality backfill )

But if in thicker dry backfill leave metal guidesthey will remain rigid pivot points with the sagging of the material between them. And this is already a spoiled floor, which is sure to start and make noise, and, in time, deform.

Excellent, if you can use the set of guides for dry screed( about it was told above).If not - the optimal choice will be galvanized profiles 60 × 27 mm.

They can be placed in different ways.

• One of the options - the profile is recessed into the thickness of the filled composition, vertical shelves down. Its upper wide shelf is set exactly horizontally. Profiles become directing for work by the usual direct rule, according to which the level of backfilling is deduced to the ideal.

After this, the goes carefully removing the profiles and moving them to the next section. If you carry out the excavation neatly, then there will be practically no traces on the leveled surface, or they will be quite easy to straighten.

• Another option - these same profiles can be placed wide shelf down, and set them so that they "lay" at the desired level. For better fixation of the profile, it can be slightly heavier - for example, the padding in the necessary dry composition.

Leveling in this case is carried out along the top edge of the vertical shelves by a rule with special cutouts along the edges, in the places of the stop on the board. It turns out that the lower slice of the rule occurs when the moves the along the guides to the desired level of alignment.

Such a rule can be made independently, from a flat board, cutting out the necessary grooves. There is such a tool and in stores - with the ability to adjust the levels of emphasis and alignment.

After leveling and in this case the guides are carefully removed. The large area of ​​their contact with the surface of the backfill causes a low pressure on the of the and therefore shallow traces that are easy to seal immediately and align.

The recommended thickness of the created layer from the dry backfill is up to 60 mm. In the event that a higher screed is required, it is necessary to use an additional layer of GWL, placing it either in the thickness, or directly under the basic elements of the floor. In any case, both the cost and the complexity of the execution of work are significantly increased.

Another one nuance - when setting the level of dry backfilling, remember that the total height of the floor will be as yet and with taking into account the thickness of the flooring panels. And their thickness is considerable - 20 mm. Plus to this - still and the thickness of the finish flooring. In this issue, novice masters are often mistakes - the final floor level becomes excessively high.

Mounting of gypsum-fiber floor elements

In matters of laying the top layer of dry screed - rigid panel floor elements, there is no unity of views and approaches. And , this concerns several aspects of the work.

• Some masters prefer to lay GVL panels immediately after leveling some of a certain site. The process will try cyclically: aligned, removed the guides, laid down the panels - moving on. This approach, apparently, is more appropriate in large premises.

Another method is to completely level the backfill over the entire area first, and only then proceed to the hard surface.

• GVL panels are mounted. The mounting direction can also be different - as it will be convenient for the master. You can start from the entrance to the room and gradually move to the far its side. Others prefer the reverse order from the far corner to the entrance. In this case, for the possibility of moving around the room arrange bridges from the same GVL-panels.

Laying of panels starts from the wall, with the pruning of the adjoining to it folded part. An even, trimmed edge should fit snugly against the damper belt, so that the dry backfilling does not have the opportunity to get up. Cutting panels is most convenient with a jigsaw, although, of course, you can do this manually and with an ordinary hacksaw.

• Docking adjacent elements of the floor is simple and understandable - the folded protrusions will not make a mistake. Before laying the next panel, the mounting pad of the previous one is smeared with glue strips.

adhesive

• The next row of floor elements is done with a shift - a bandage of at least 250 mm.
• When pruning panels adjacent to walls, you need to carefully evaluate the possibility of using them on the opposite side of one of the following rows - this will allow you to save as much as possible. The diagram shows some options for laying the elements, using fragments of trimmed panels:

• After the panels are docked to the glue, they are fixed together with screws. The step between neighboring screws is 100 ÷ 150 mm. It is important not to place the screws too close( closer than 25 mm) to the edge of the panel, so as not to "tear" the edge. Screws are screwed all the way in, with lightweight hiding the cap in the surface - you will immediately need to fix the tightening torque on the screwdriver.

• It is strongly recommended not to make seams between panels in door openings of - it is better to carry them outward to 200-300 mm( this is called through-laying).

After all the panels are laid on the glue and fixed with screws, the work on installing the dry screed can be considered mostly finished. Whether to fill the joints, or leave them as it is - depends, is basically , from the type of the finish flooring. For example, through the linoleum contours of the seams can also come through, and gently repairing them makes sense. But for a laminate such a seal can simply become an extra operation.

The remains only to gently cut off the film protruding above the surface of the dry screed along the perimeter of the and the damper tape - and you can proceed to the further stages of finishing the room.

An experienced team of craftsmen usually cope with a room of standard size for one work shift. Of course, amateur masters to chase such a speed is not necessary - it's best to do everything thoroughly and without haste. Even with this approach, if you work with assistants, complete execution of dry screed hardly will take for more than 2 ÷ 3 days.

Video: errors of amateur installation of dry screed and their fix