How can I make a stool?

A chair can be made by everyone.

This is a simple tool for working with blanks.

The chair is a tool from the category of carpentry.

It is a tray for cutting profile material at certain angles.

You fix the workpiece in the groove, after sawing, inserting the hacksaw through the side slots - they act as guides, setting a flat saw at an angle.

In this article we will reveal the concept of a chair, varieties, examples of use and give step-by-step instructions on how to assemble a chair with your own hands at home and video with a photo summarizing the whole process.

Types of the chair

There are 2 types of chairs:

1. Conventional - plastic, wooden, metal box( more precisely, inform the channel - the letter "P"), in which we insert the workpiece and after sawing at an angle in the horizontal projection. The cutting angle and the hacksaw create a common straight line due to a number of slots, and it is possible to saw the workpiece at the desired angle smoothly, without distortion;
2. Swivel: usually a metal tool that has a marking of 15 to 135 degrees. At a selected angle in this interval, a hacksaw set up straight on the stool, up to 60 cm in length, rotates. This "sophisticated" design is fully justified - this professional tool allows you to saw absolutely exactly and at the right angle, even at the smallest angle, or saw several parts in a row in steps of anysize( meaning step angle - 1 degree, 10, 15, 50 and so on).

It's also worth mentioning 3 variants, in terms of working angles:

• 45 and 90 degrees - the absolute majority;
• 15, 22.5, 30, 45, 90 degrees is a professional tool;
• rotary mechanism from 15 to 135 degrees - a rare, but very versatile appearance, also a professional tool.

Speaking of a professional chair with a swivel hacksaw( see photo), it is worth saying that this tool is more versatile, because the saw blade easily copes with plastic, wood and colored, ferrous metals.

If you want to make a stage yourself, then there is no need to perform a sophisticated tool for a saw with a rotary gradient. To cut ceiling skirting enough and the usual chair.

Nuances and application of

The chair can seem like a carpenter's tool, but it's not entirely true. Let's look at the whole range of works that can be done with this simple device:

• sawing any boards at an angle;
• sawing the skirting perfectly even for a very accurate fit;
• can evenly cut a hacksaw for metal tiles for plumbing work;
• can cut thin sheet steel.

Once the tool allows you to cut very smoothly, at the right angle - change the type of hacksaw and cut anything.

But there is always a real chance to spoil the tool, as, for the most part, it is made of wood, plastic.

The chair can seem like a simple thing, but its simplicity has its own nuances:

• Plastic wears out literally in front of eyes - a large width of the slits, soft material under the action of constant force( pressure of the hacksaw) are amenable, and the accuracy of the cut is broken;
• The width of the lining strip is very important - if you want to saw a plain plinth, a narrow rail, in a word to do scrupulous works, then any stool, preferably with a narrow width of the lining strip, will suit you. But for large blanks it is better to take a wide stool - and the workpiece will fit, and a wide hacksaw will enter the grooves;
• The best chair, of course, made of metal. Even a hacksaw for metal will have to try to spoil the cracks and the lining strip;
• The walls that hold the workpiece must be made strong and strong at the same time so that they do not break with possible loosening during the use of the hacksaw, and also have the optimum height - if the walls are short, the workpiece will not hold tightly, there will be a risk that the blade of the hacksaw or the workpiece itselfjust slip out.

Take note of these nuances before making your own chair.

Video:

Assembling: instruction

The build sequence came up.

To make a stool, we need the following materials and tools:

• edged board made of solid wood: 20 mm thick, length - arbitrary, 2 pieces;
• board for sidewalls and for the base - 1 piece;
• wood hacksaw with small teeth;
• hacksaw for metal;
• 4 pieces of confirmations;
• key is a confirmation;
• drill;
• wood drills;
• vise / clamp;
• thinnest file.

We choose a hacksaw

We will need a tool only for manufacturing. The chair itself is made for a specific hacksaw, but not vice versa.

A good hacksaw for manufacturing must have a thin, stiff cloth with small teeth. Such teeth cut the tree smoothly, thinly, without distortion, which is important for accurate sawing skirting, for example.

Any thin canvas is sure to be flexible, that for a chair - a big minus. If so, then the hacksaw should have a boot - a special rib of rigidity.

Video:

You can go easier - with a circular saw you can quickly perform very smooth cuts, the main thing - to properly mark.

Assembling the side walls

On the side walls we use a dense board:

1. Board thickness - 20 mm;
2. The height of the rim is selected at will, but 5 cm is enough with a vengeance;
3. The length of the side wall of the tool is from 25 cm, if the workpiece is wider, then the length of the chair should be more - from 35 cm;
4. We cut two identical sidewalls using a circular saw / hacksaw. Dimensions of two sidewalls - from 6 cm in height( +1 cm to the height for fastening), from 25 cm in length - 2 pieces;
5. The size of the base - from 8 cm wide and larger, the same length - from 25 cm, 1 piece. The thickness of all workpieces is from 2 cm.

Marking for cuts

Before we attach the sidewalls with confirmations to the base, it is necessary to make the cuts:

• attach the sidewalls to each other;
• we check edges on an equality - both preparations should coincide on all sizes;
• clamps sidewalls with clamps or clamps;
• we measure exactly the middle - from it we will measure all corners;
• measure the angles of 45 and 90 degrees on both sides of the middle;
• we perform diagonal cuts: we use a hacksaw for metal and when the cut is made to the required depth, we take the usual wood hacksaw and expand the cuts. Faster execute immediately with a circular. Note the photo: the image shows the principle of marking;
• cuts are performed until the very bottom of the chair - deeper it is impossible;
• sawing a perpendicular slot, which is needed for sawing workpieces at a right angle;
• very thin nadfilom we clean all cuts from within.

Assembling the chair

The cuts are made - we collect the stool:

1. Attach the side panels to the base for fixing the ends of the base with the guiding sidewalls;
2. On the completed marks drill holes, if there is no special drill for confirmations, then drill to a shallow depth first with a wide drill, after a thin drill that corresponds to the thread of the connection in diameter. A thin drill drill holes of the necessary depth in the base. If you look at the photo, the confirmats do not come out of the wood;
3. We fix the side walls to the base with confirmations. The chair can also be attached to the table for permanent sawing on a solid foundation. The chair is ready.

This video shows the whole assembly step in steps.

Video:

The finished stool is good because it is foldable - if the slits have become too wide, you can not saw exactly, then the sidewalls can be removed and made new literally in one hour with the help of a circular, pencil and ruler.

Often the chair is made of metal, but such a tool weighs decently, besides there is a problem in terms of cutting.

Aluminum will only fit as a base, but for steel sidewalls it is better to use steel. If so, then saw it can be either a circular saw with a thin disc, or in a metalwork shop on the machine.

But this chair will serve for years.