Bathhouse, no matter what size it was, whether it's a bathhouse on black or a bath made of logs, always requires the organization of a device for draining water. Care of the sink is necessary even before the beginning of its construction. The drain pit is the backbone of the entire drainage system. The option of diversion of water with a sinkhole is very popular among summer residents. If there is sewage communication or a ditch near the country plot, it will be inappropriate to make a pit. In such cases it makes sense to hold pipes for drainage to the sewage system and or ditches. Doing a drainage pit in areas with high groundwater levels is strongly discouraged, as this will not lead to any confusion, and efforts will be wasted in vain. Therefore, before you start building the bath itself, you do not need to hurry up with the preparation of the sinkhole. If the drainage pit is still needed, then we begin construction.
Drain pit for sauna
So, where do you start? Like any other construction - from design. Specialists in the field of engineering are not required here, but several calculations are needed. Answer the questions:
- How many people will visit the bathhouse?
- What are the characteristics of the land on the site?
- How high is the groundwater table?
About the fact that at a high level of groundwater drainage pit is better not to do, it is already said. But how do you measure the level itself? The most accurate method is drilling a well. But not all have a drilling rig in the garage. Look at the areas where vegetation is not watered. If there are growing hygrophilous plants, then the water in the ground is exactly there. Vegetation is dense - it means that the pit needs to dig deeper. The volume of the cesspool will depend on how intensively the owners use the bath. The more people will be expected to visit the steam room and shower, the larger the volume of the pit will be required. If there is not enough, in the end, the sewage can be poured over the edge. The earth is loose? Then you need to strengthen its edges. If the soil is firm, that is a plus in the treasury of time.
Having determined all the characteristics of the land and the "performance" of the future bath, you can choose a place under the pit. Specialists in the construction of baths are advised to dig a pit two meters from the walls of the bath. Too far - then the necessary bias will not be ensured and the water will stagnate.
Materials that will be required for the construction of
With a dense and well-absorbent soil, many raw materials will not be required. In this case, it will not be necessary to strengthen the walls of the pit. The bottom can be laid with rubble and retic sand. However, cases with such an ideal land in our country are not common. In the vast majority of cases, the walls of the pit have to be strengthened, otherwise it can crumble. Brick masonry, slate or similar material is good for this fit. Another option: a plastic or metal barrel with a cut bottom, in the lower part of the walls of which you need to make several holes, so that the drainage water is filtered through the ground.
A beneficial variant of the pit shape is the cylinder. The pit, made in this form, distributes the load on the soil evenly, allowing to reduce the risk of structural failure to a minimum. The camera in the form of a cube is inferior in this.
Trench preparation and excavation
Where to dig the ground? If the soil quality - to pour on the area with vegetation. Stones, sand and clay for export. We decided to equip the pit with brickwork, ceramic bricks - it's the most. Durable material that does not have "hydrophobia".You can save on bricks by laying bricks upward. Between the ends you need to leave holes - this is the outlet for water. A simple and useful advice - to use natural stone, so as not to spend money on brick, is profitable.
Is the masonry complete? Then proceed to the formation of the bottom, waterproof bottom! Podsypkoy will serve all the same rubble and sand. Also suitable construction waste. It is better not to understate the undercoat layer, at least 20 cm. The upper part of the masonry should exceed the ground level by 30-40 cm. The pit is covered with a concrete slab or a metal sheet.
If there is traffic passing over the pit, then the thickness of the slab should be at least 30 cm. In case the ground poorly absorbs draining water, then holes can be left in the slab so that during pouring over the pit it can be possible to pump out the drains. Only a hole it needs to be closed, otherwise it can be accidentally please. The reinforcement has been completed, it remains to fill its outer part with excavated soil( fill the unusable part of the pit with sand).On the site of the former pit, you can grow plants or arrange a passage.
Pit of old tires
Pouring pit from tires top view
As a rule, there is no solid waste in the effluent, which means that the arrangement options can be very simple. Special materials may not be required at all. Will fit and improvised means. BU car tires are fine for this fit. The larger the diameter of the tires, the better. The sidewalls of old tires should be cut using a grinder or a jigsaw. So, the prepared tires are put on each other in a pit. The lower part of the pit is also covered with rubble. In the tire lying on top it is necessary to make a hole under the drain pipe and adjust it. After that, the cylinders need to put a sheet of metal and fill it with earth by level.
Diagram for creating a drain hole from
tires Pouring pit made with slate
Wave slate is perfect for filling a drain pit. The first sheet is put on the bottom. The second is superimposed on the first so that their waves touch each other with high points. Subsequent sheets are also placed, until the top of the pit is left to 30-40 cm. The drain pipe is inserted into the gap of the upper quarter of the slate masonry. Strengthen the structure by filling the beaten slices of slate, and then fill up the remaining empty space with soil. This method is more suitable for sandy soil.
