How to change the mixer in the kitchen

Kitchen mixer belongs to the most intensively used sanitary equipment. Any, even the highest-quality similar device over time requires certain maintenance - replacement of leaking cartridge or loosely closing cranes-boxes. However, it also happens that the case itself comes into disrepair with the mixer - permanent irreversible surface erosion processes start, the threads for the valves or cartridge are "eaten" by the thread, the chrome coating is wiped off. And if the product is of low-quality silumin, is quite possible complete destruction of the case with the appearance of cracks and chipping fragments.

Maybe and not such a fatal situation - just owners decided to update the interior of the kitchen, and without installing a new modern plumbing in this issue also can not do. How to choose the right mixer was told in a special article of our portal. Now the speech will go to about how to change the mixer in the kitchen yourself, without resorting to a specialist call.

This process, although the is very responsible, but still quite affordable for the average apartment owner.

What is required for the operation of the

hard to work on the replacement of the mixer should immediately prepare the necessary components, accessories, tools, consumables.

• We proceed from the fact that the mixer has already been purchased by .However, the is required by the to check if the length of the flexible hoses that are included is sufficient. As a rule, the s that go in the kit have only 300 mm, which can be clearly insufficient. In addition, if the mixer is not "branded", then the quality of these sleeves in the metal braid usually leaves much to be desired, and they should be replaced immediately.

When selecting and purchasing such hoses, be sure to note that the length of their hose( otherwise it is often called a needle) must be different - this will facilitate the assembly, since the hex keys are not keywill interfere with each other.

In addition, it is necessary to choose the correct type of threaded connection to the water pipe. This applies to the diameter and type of the threaded part( "dad" or "mother").Most often, of course, used hoses "mom" with a nut ½ inch - for direct connection in the corresponding pipe. Nevertheless, the options are possible, for example, if the comb collector is installed, or the ball valve with the "MOM" output.

. The hoses should not be placed in tension, but in tension, but do not buy them with a very large margin of length. At pressure drops( opening and closing of the crane) they will twitch the , vibrate, and this causes a rapid wear of the rubber tube, placed under the steel braid .It starts wiping and can in the near future give a leak.

braid More durable and reliable in this respect are corrugated stainless steel hoses.

They, of course, are more expensive, and even more difficult to mount. But such hoses have excellent rigidity - they will save attached to them when installing bend.

Some masters prefer to dispense bets of flexible hoses, making the water supply to the mixer from the metal-plastic pipe. For this, it is necessary to purchase the kit kp pcs with fittings for metal plastics. Of course, is more difficult to implement than with flexible hoses, but once you have installed such pipes, the for this section will not be worried anymore.

Video: how to choose really high-quality hoses

• Tools for work will need:

- Wrenches. The key for 10 and 22 × 24 is guaranteed to be guaranteed. Very often the fastening stud studs require a key for 11. If the mixer is attached to a large diameter nut washer, it is better to prepare the adjustable wrench.

- Screwdrivers with straight and shaped tip.

- Pliers.

- In some cases, you can not do without a gas key.

- If the installation is to be carried out on a new sink, on which the still has no hole, or on the countertop, an electric drill with appropriate crowns( usually with a diameter of 35 mm) will be required.

- For work in conditions with insufficient illumination of , under the sink, the is likely to require a flashlight.

• Materials may be required:

- Sealants for threaded connections. They will be needed when there is a need for mounting on the water pipe of the coupling, adapter, packing fitting for the metal-plastic and , .Do not trust the with the ribbon-it's better to use the usual linen pack and sealing paste( like "Unipak" ) - this connection will be guaranteed against leakage.

- If the installation of the mixer is to be carried out with a temporary disassembly of the sink, it is necessary to prepare a silicone sealant and, of course, a syringe for the convenience of its application.

- situations are possible where old "fastened" threaded connections will not be disassembled. To help in this case, pulverizer balloon of universal lubricant composition "WD-40" can.

Once the is all ready, you can proceed to the next steps.

Dismantling of the old mixer and preparatory work

• Before the proceed to work directly under the kitchen sink, it is necessary, first of all , to disconnect the supply of both cold and hot water. For this purpose, the valves at the entrance to the apartment overlap, or, if it is provided for by the internal wiring system, to block the supply of water from the collector to the kitchen. Sometimes the cranes are installed directly under the sink. Of course, theoretically you can only cover them. However, practice shows that when carrying out work in close space, the probability of accidental opening of the ball valve by the awkward movement of the arm or elbow is not ruled out. To prevent such a misunderstanding, it is better to cut off the water supply to the kitchen completely.
• After the valves are closed, open the tap on the mixer - this normalizes the pressure in the pipe. Under the area of ​​connection of old hoses, it is necessary to substitute a basin or other tank of with suitable dimensions. The hoses are twisted, the is given by the to leave the remaining water in the pipes.
• Now you need to remove the old mixer. Case this is not as simple as it might seem at first glance.

- First, to work in an uncomfortable position, in a very cramped space, lying on the back is very difficult, especially if the car wash is embedded in the kitchen cupboard.

- Secondly, the "classic" arrangement of the mixer - between the wall and the bowl of the sink. In such a narrow niche, it is very difficult to wield a wrench - there simply is not room for its overlap and rotation.

- Thirdly, almost certainly all connections from time and dampness of rusted the , "got used up" and so simply will not succumb.

In numerous articles on the Internet to replace the mixer, this stage is sometimes described in passing, the type "unscrew the with a screwdriver hairpin and pull out the mixer".Experienced masters know the price of such statements - with a very high likelihood these most hairpins screwdriver will not succumb, rather - cut off the rusted slot. So, you need a key, and about the "convenience" of working with him under these conditions has already been said.

What's the solution? If it is possible to remove the sink( and this possibility is in the overwhelming majority of cases), means does not need to fluctuate - and the dismantling and subsequent installation of the mixer will be performed both faster and much better. It is better to spend a very small amount for the purchase of sealant and to carry out simple enough steps to remove the washer and its , then installing - in the end, you will all will win.

• For dismantling the sink, of course, you need to disconnect the of its from the sewer. You can remove the flexible corrugated hose from the sewer pipe, or, which is probably more convenient for further work, simply unscrew the retaining ring on the siphon and remove this "glass" from the drain socket of the sink.
• Now, conveniently located, it will be easy to remove the used mixer . Depending on its design, a large lock nut or studs are twisted. It may be necessary for to squirt these nodes "WD-40", so that they succumb. There are situations when this does not help either - then you have to apply radical measures - cut them with a hacksaw or with the grinder. The main does not damage the car wash.

For cutting, the grinder sometimes also has to be used when replacing a mixer of the old type installed on the rigid steel pipe liner.

It's extremely difficult to disassemble rusted drifts or covered with several layers of paint. Therefore, it is more profitable to just cut from the above threaded part. Further - on the circumstances of .If it is possible to release a quality threaded pipe for the further connection of a flexible hose, then the question becomes simpler. If not, then, apparently, will have still and cut the thread with a lighter.

• In order not to postpone for later, it is necessary to immediately check the condition of the water pipes suitable for washing, in particular those threaded areas on which flexible hoses are to be screwed. In order that the gasket of the hose fit tightly to the edge of the pipe, it must be even along the whole circumference, do not have sharp or protruding edges of , geometric disturbance due to corrosive effects. If there is any doubt, it is better to "pack" a threaded extension cord of factory production in this place - this will guarantee reliability of the connection with the hose.

Mounting is carried out on the tow, whose fibers are threaded on the pipe in a clockwise direction, and then they are smeared with a sealing paste. The extension piece is tightened with a carbide or gas key until it stops.

• If you want and the availability of funds, you can immediately install shut-off valves, if they have not previously stood. This will allow later to carry out any repairs in the kitchen, for example, in the event of an emergency, without turning off the general domestic water supply network.
• In the event that it is planned to make water piping with metal-plastic pipes, there is a reason for to close the aze "pack" the adapter fittings on steel pipes.
• If a new mixer is to be installed on an old sink, the area around the mounting hole must be thoroughly cleaned from scale build-ups, accumulated dirt, rust traces and .This cleaning is carried out both from the front and from the lower side.
• In case when the is planning to install a new car wash, it is necessary, of course, to immediately try to purchase one that already has an installation hole. However, some models do not have them, and the will have to take appropriate measures by the .

If the sink is made of stainless steel, then for this purpose a special tool is used, which cuts perfectly flat holes in metal up to 1 mm thick.

The diameter is selected by , based on the mixer model. So, if it is attached to the studs, then 28 or 32 mm will suffice. When attaching to a nut, a hole is necessary with a diameter of 35 mm.

It's not difficult to use it - a hole with a diameter of 8 mm is drilled in the intended location. The device is inserted by the cutting part from below, curled with a bolt so that the cutting edges snug against the metal. Then, turning the bolt with a wrench, ensure the rotation of the knives along the circumference.

The situation is more complicated if the washing is ceramic. To cut the hole in this case, you need a diamond bit. But even its presence in the home arsenal does not guarantee success - it can easily be damaged if there is no experience of such works.

Council - and in that, and in another case it is better to turn to professionals. Usually in good salons for the sale of plumbing must be prompted where and how it can be done, and in some cases such a service can be provided even on the spot.

countertop. If the mixer is to be installed on the countertop, the hole is drilled in it. To do this, you can use an electric drill with a crown - a ring saw Ø 28 or 32 mm. Do not make a hole with such a tool in a panel made of wood composite.

Assembly of a new mixer

As it has been repeatedly mentioned in the article, models of mixers can be distinguished by a method from attachment to the surface of a sink or countertop.

• The diagram shows a mixer that is attached to threaded studs. kit This product includes the studs with brass nuts, a crescent-shaped bracket with holes for the studs and a rubber or polymer gasket of the same configuration.

mixer set. There are models of mixers that use only one pin, but this design will not be particularly stable( rotation around the axis is not excluded), and it is better to purchase withtwo.

This design provides the with a reliable installation on surfaces up to a thickness of 30 ÷ 35 mm, which is especially important when mounting the mixer on the worktop.

• Another option - the mixer has a bottom cylindrical threaded section and a nut, usually M 34.

Such models are more suitable for installation on a metal sink. It is important that the bottom of the hole is not a complicated relief configuration - absolutely flat area is required, otherwise the tight fitting and reliable fixation will not be achieved.

The installation of different types of mixers has its own characteristics.

A. Installation of the mixer with fastening on nut

The extended lower cylindrical part will not interfere with the screwing of flexible hoses, therefore installation begins, in fact, from attaching the mixer to the sink.

• In kit kt cm , the compulsorily includes a sealing rubber ring, and on the lower end of the housing a special groove is provided for it. The first step is to install the gasket in this groove.

• . The threaded cylindrical part is inserted into the sink hole. Thus it is necessary to watch, that the rubber ring remained on place , not it was displaced .

• . Then, a wide rubber gasket is installed from the bottom, which must also be included in the delivery.

• The brass fixing nut is screwed on. It has a kind of "skirt" - expansion in the form of a washer, which will provide the maximum clamp through the already installed rubber gasket.

• The nut is tightened with the adjustable wrench so that the mixer remains stationary in the sink. At the same time, it is necessary to check the correct orientation of the spill - it should be located so that the sectors of turning left and right from the center position are equal, and the lever or the valves are level with respect to the sink. With the angular positioning of the mixer, the position of the spout is selected diagonally.

• It is not difficult to adjust the position - you can loosen the nut, align the mixer and fix it again.
• Now you can proceed to installing the hoses. To start, screw in the hose with a short nipple and tighten the key with 10.

No rewinding of the threaded part of the sticker or with a ribbon tape, as a rule, is not required - on the it is equipped with one or two sealing rings that must provide the with a reliable seal. The coupling is screwed against the stop with an average force - it is dangerous to overtight, as the rubber ring can be damaged. Usually enough effort is hand, and only then still no more than one turn key.

• The next step is similarly to install the second hose - with the extended fitting.
• If water is to be piped through a plastic pipe, then the fitting with the fittings is screwed in this order - first, the one that has the bend, and then the straight one.
• After the hoses( union) are screwed in, the washer can be installed in place.

B. Mounting the mixer with fastening studs

The special feature of the installation in this case is that the hoses are screwed in before installing the mixer into the opening of the countertop or sink, otherwise it will not be possible to tighten out of the quality.

• Initially, the brass nuts are removed from the studs, and the studs are screwed into the corresponding holes on the lower end of the mixer. The studs usually have slots for a straight or shaped screwdriver, but, as a rule, they are easily twisted and manually, without much effort. The tightening is not necessary here - it's enough just to wrap them to the depth of 8 ÷ 10 mm until they are stable, without looseness.

You can immediately try on how the studs will wear a figured pad and pressure plate, but then these elements should be removed - they will be installed later.

• Both hoses are threaded into the opening of the sink( countertop) with the fittings up.
• The presence and correctness of the sealing ring on the mixer body must be checked, in the same way as described above.
• The next step is screwing the unions of flexible hoses . Sequence of operation does not change - first short, then extended .
• The mixer with connected with hoses and screwed studs is inserted into the installation hole of the sink or countertop.

• From the bottom of the studs, you first put on a curly gasket and then a metal pressure plate. They are healed and manually, as far as the is possible, the brass nuts are twisted.

• are tightened with the wrench. After checking the correctness of the sealing ring on the body and the direction of the spout of the , the nuts are tightened with a key 10( sometimes - 11) to the stop, so that the is secured with the fixing the mixer on the surface, without the slightest backlash.

• It is important to check that there are no slots left near the body, the is not covered with the gasket - this sometimes happens when the aperture in the washer is too large and the mixer is not aligned correctly in the it .

All, the mixer is installed, you can install the washer in place.

Again, all of the above actions, of course, can be done under certain conditions and proper dexterity even without dismantling the sink, but is extra problems for .

Video: installation of the mixer with fastening on a hairpin

Connection of the mixer to a waterpipe

Assembly of the - is a separate topic, requiring detailed consideration in a specially-assigned for .It can only be noted that if it is immersion and is mounted on the old place, then on the cleaned surface of the countertop along the perimeter of the installation it is necessary to put a strip of sealant. After pressing it must reliably to close the gap to prevent water from penetrating through the on it .

If the wash is a waybill and is adjacent to the wall, then after its sealant installation also fills a gap between them.

Now it only remains to connect the hoses to the water pipes. Nuts of hoses are usually already equipped with rubber gaskets, and for reliable sealing of the connection requires neither rewinding nor excessive force. Conversely, too much tightening can lead to the destruction of the gasket and the appearance of a leak. It is enough to tighten the hand to the stop and then tighten it with ½ turn with the key 22 or 24.

With the metal-plastic liner, of course, the will have a bit more - it is necessary to carefully measure the required length,to give him the necessary bend, and then tighten in the appropriate compression fittings.

Video: connection of the mixer on a rigid wire

Usually when connecting hoses or leading pipes adhere to the scheme: on the left - hot water, on the right - cold.

If the sink was removed, then do not forget to connect its back to the sewer, having replaced the siphon and inserting the corrugated hose with the sealing cuff into the intended outlet of the sewer pipe.

In fact, everything, you can turn on the water supply and try the mixer in operation. There is, however, still one fineness - it is recommended to start siphoning off the water with the tip removed - the aerator. The fact is that small inclusions can accumulate in pipes, hoses or even in the mixer itself, which can quickly block the holes of this nozzle. After merge several liters of water, the aerator is easy to install in its place.

At the first start, all connections must be checked for leaks. If there are signs of leakage, you must immediately remove these shortcomings by a small tightening.

The article has considered the most common ways of installing kitchen faucets. However, you can face more complex options.

• So, for example, if the spout of the mixer is a shower head on a retractable hose, then the will have to another one switching and adjustment.

Below the hose( in the diagram - 1) in the corrugated braid or without it , length about 1, 5 m , with the union on the end will be located. This fitting, after installing the mixer in its original position, is screwed into the socket intended for it on the housing. The sinker( pos.2) is installed on the flexible hose itself - it will return and hold the of its in this position, and at the same time serve as a stop for the length of the hose pulling. The position of this sinker can be changed with the help of a locking screw.

• Another option is when two channels are provided in the for the mixer - for conventional tap water and for purified drinking water. On these models, an additional fitting( item 3) is provided to connect the with another of one hose coming from the filtration and post-treatment system installed under the sink.

The mixer for the drinking water set is activated by a separate tap or lever( item 4).

There are more "tricked-out" schemes - with thermostats, autonomous boilers, electronic control units, with mechanical traction connected to the drain plug of the wash bowl, and others. The installation technology in this case should be detailed in the proposed product passport. However, if there are ambiguities in this matter, do not engage in amateur activity - it is better to invite a specialist.