Russian stove-makers have mastered Dutch masonry technology more than two hundred years ago. During this time the stove proved itself as a reliable, economical and productive heating unit. In this case the Dutchman has an extremely simple design. Having studied the following manual, you can lay it out on your own.
Oven Dutch with their hands
Design features Dutch
stove Content articles
- 1 Design features the stove Dutch
- 1.1 set for
- 2 Construction foundation
- 3 masonry oven
- 3.1 solution Preparation
- 3.2 preliminary foundation training
- 3.3 poryadovkoy
- 3.4 Video -Furnace Dutch with their own hands
For the masonry of the Dutch used ceramic full bricks. The design of the furnace consists of the following basic structural elements:
- ash pan;
- furnaces;
- smoke detection;
- cleaning compartment;
- chimney;
- gate valves for regulation of thrust intensity.
Diagram of the Dutch oven
Among the key differences between the Dutch and other popular brick kilns, it is necessary to distinguish:
- the absence of a grate grate;
- presence of channels for smoke passage. They settle on each other. This arrangement allows for a consistent circulation of the flue gases produced and maximum heating efficiency;
- furnace can have a round, rectangular or even complex curved shape, but the firebox always remains rectangular;
- under the furnace there is no ash-pit;
- The hob is usually not installed.
Dutch walls, as a rule, are laid out in a brick. Thanks to this, the finished structure has a relatively low weight, which simplifies the requirements for the foundation and the whole foundation.
Heating furnace Dutch
The compact dimensions of the stove allow it to fit into almost any interior.
Set for work
- Conventional ceramic brick.
- Refractory brick.
Refractory brick
- Construction clay.
- Water.
- River sand.
- Doors for ash-stove and firebox.
Furnace doors
- Grate grate.
Grate
- Steel flexible wire.
- Asbestos cord.
Asbestos cord
- Cleaning doors.
- Latches.
- Steel strip 0.5 cm thick and 5 cm wide
Steel strip
Foundation of the foundation
Despite the relatively small weight for a brick kiln, the Dutchman still needs a quality and reliable base. An excellent option - a solid plate. An important nuance: the foundation must be reinforced both in area and in volume, i.e.deep into. Dimensions of such a base should be at least 1.2 x1.2 m. The foundation of the Dutch can not be connected with the base of the main structure.
How to make a foundation
The foundation for a brick oven
The order of work on the arrangement of the foundation is as follows.
The first step. We designate the boundaries of the base to be fitted.
The second step. Roem is a pit about 60 cm deep.
Foundation foundation pit
The third step. We fall asleep the bottom of the excavation with a 15-centimeter layer of crushed stone. Carefully level and tamp the filling.
Crushed stone
Fourth step. We lay a grid of reinforcing bars. The recommended size of the cells of such a grid is 100-120 mm.
Foundation pit with formwork and fittings
Fifth step. At the intersections of the bars, we install a vertical reinforcement. We connect all joints of the elements of the support system with wire.
The sixth step. We install formwork for foundation pouring. Each wall of the formwork is covered with ruberoid or treated with a resin for waterproofing.
The seventh step. Fill the concrete. Eighth step.
. We make "ironing" of the surface of the base. To do this, sprinkle with a small amount of dry cement.
We give the foundation to gain strength. It is better to leave it for a month, but many masters start laying in a week. In this moment the decision is yours.
Masonry
Before laying, you need to prepare the mortar and perform some simple steps to prepare the foundation.
Preparation of
solution Sift the sand and break large pieces of clay. Crushed clay should also be sifted. With the functions of the sieve, the grid from the armored bed will perfectly handle. If not, use a simple sieve with cells of similar dimensions.
Pour clay with water for several hours. Surplus water, not absorbed by clay, drain.
Important! Soak not only clay, but also bricks. To do this, it is enough to immerse them in water for about a minute. Thanks to this treatment, the bricks will not absorb water from the clay solution.
Allow the clay to swell and mix it with sand in equal amounts. In the same mixture, add about 1/8 of the clean water. Calculate the lead in accordance with the volume of the sand-clay mixture obtained.
Preliminary foundation preparation
Cover the foundation foundation with waterproofing material. A roofing felt will do. It is also possible to use a hydroisol or other material with similar properties.
Waterproofing
Order
Order
We proceed to laying.
We stack the first row. It will consist of 12 bricks. We are convinced of the evenness of the masonry with the help of a level and only after that we pour the surface of the base with clay mortar.
Example of laying bricks on
insulation We install the ash door. Prewind it with an asbestos cord. To fix the door we use steel wire. We insert the wire into the box and twist it 2 times. At the top edge of the brick we make a cut. We insert a wire into it, bend it and weave it with the masonry.
The second row is laid out on the order.
Masonry of the
furnace. Be sure to stretch the plumb bobs in order for the stove to be strictly vertical
. The third and the next rows, marked yellow on the order, are laid out of refractory bricks.
Between 3 and 4 rows we stack a grid of a grate in the sizes 200 х 300 mm.
We have laid the grate
We put the bricks of the fourth row on the edge. On the diagram there are bricks marked in red. On them we put an internal partition in the chimney. The back brick is made "knock-out", i.e.we lay it without a solution. In the future, we can take out such a brick and clean the stove. A convenient solution, which eliminates the need to install the door.
Masonry Furnace
Masonry Furnace
We install the furnace door. The recommendations are the same as in the case of the ash door.
Installing the heating door. The photo shows how to insert and twist the wire - the lock
Installation of the fire door
The fifth row is laid out similarly to the previous one. Bricks are laid flat.
In the 6th row, lay the bricks on the edge. We work by order.
Masonry golandki
The 7 series bricks put flat everywhere except the back wall - it lay "on edge."In all the following rows, the bricks are laid flat.
Masonry
Molding door
On the eighth row we close the door of the furnace. The internal refractory bricks over the combustion chamber are mowed. This will allow us to use the stove as a fireplace if desired. This can be seen in the diagram.
Masonry Masonry golandki
golandki
Overlap Overlap stove stove
Ninth series moves back. On top of it we lay asbestos board, and after - cast iron cooker, if necessary. The joints between the slab and the brick are filled with an asbestos cord.
On the 10th row we start laying the foundation for the chimney. The continuation of the design will be metallic.
We spread the 11th row and install the valve. We prewind the bolt with an asbestos cord. Construction
golandki
golandki
Construction Construction Construction golandki
golandki When laying 12th row make out the joint between the metal pipe and chimney. We remove the chimney from the house through the roof. We overlap the places of mineral wool or other heat-insulating material. The height of the structure is determined individually. It should rise no less than 50 cm above the highest point of the roof.
Construction golandki
Construction golandki
furnace construction furnace construction
construction furnace construction furnace
furnace construction furnace construction
detailed diagram of the masonry oven Dutch
finishing Dutch perform at its discretion. It can be whitewashed, beautifully tiled with tiles or tiles, or even left without decor - the bricks and look so beautiful.
On the floor in front of the furnace furnace we put the pre-furnace steel plate. It will prevent the ignition of the base material in the event of precipitation of the charcoal from the combustion chamber.
Finished oven should be allowed to dry for at least 2 weeks. Do not close the door of the furnace. Only after the specified time in the furnace it will be possible to breed a full-fledged fire. Before receiving the Dutchman for permanent operation, burn a bit of paper in the firebox to check the thrust. The smoke must go through the chimney.
Now you know how to build a Dutch oven yourself. Follow the recommendations and everything will turn out.
Prefabricated steel sheet
Good work!
