Burzhuyka of brick by own hands

Self-made breeze made for heating in the country or in the garage - is the optimal version of nt for and such premises.

Burzhuyka of brick by own hands

Burger made of bricks with their own hands

Usually, in such conditions, small metal stove-burgers are used, as they are compact and convenient. However, they have one significant drawback of the - , they heat up very quickly, but also rapidly cool down. Therefore, they constantly need to maintain fire throughout the day, which means that you need to store a large supply of fuel. The craftsmen figured out how to get out of this situation and keep the heat for a longer period. The - oven will be much longer hot if the of its is folded from the of the brick or the brick is applied to the .

There are different variants of burzhuek, for the manufacture of which brick is used:

- oven , completely built of bricks;

is a combined burglar when the lower is its brick section, and for the upper one a gas cylinder or a metal pipe is fitted;

- cast iron stove-burzhuyka, which is covered from the outside with brickwork;

- a brick oven, topped with metal sheets.

To select the appropriate nt option for and use it in a holiday cottage, utility building or in a garage, you need to know which volumes of work to be done by manufacturing each and which tools are needed for this.

Tools for constructing a speech-burglar

Contents of the article

  • 1 Tools for constructing speech-burgers
  • 2 Burger made of bricks
    • 2.1 Materials for work
    • 2.2 What should be done for laying the furnace?
    • 2.3 masonry furnace
  • 3 brick stove, fine metal
    • 3.1 Materials for
    • 3.2 Preparation of metal parts
    • 3.3 Mounting burzhujki
    • 3.4 Door for furnace
  • 4 cast iron stove, lined with brick
    • 4.1 masonry bricks around the metal housing
    • 4.2 Video: a compact brick stove with your own hands

The following tools will be needed for making the brickwork of the turbojet:

  • Spatulas of different widths.
  • Trowel and trowel.
  • Rubber, usual hammer and hammer with with picker .
  • Sanding machine with circles on a stone and on metal.
  • Plumbing and building level.
  • Extension.
  • Capacity of for mortar.
  • Electric drill and mixing head for mixing the solution.
  • In addition to the above, for the manufacture of the metal part of the turbo, you need to prepare other tools - The device for welding metal and consumables to it, all the necessary equipment for the welder - metal brushes, hammer and .Well, if the farm has equipment for cutting metal - this will simplify the task with the workpieces.

For the manufacture of each of the furnace options you will need your list of materials, depending on the form of the turbo, the design and the of its size.

Brick burglar

Brick burger does not belong to works of the highest category of complexity

Brick burger does not belong to the highest category of work

Any turbo must have a small - in this and consists of its the main advantage over massive structures for which there can not always be a place in small rooms. Burden made of bricks - is a conventional stove, only having a very compact size. Like any heating structure, a brick burner can have different designs and serve only for heating the room or include the as an and cooking function. The latter will not be superfluous for a holiday house, or for a garage.

Bold sketch of the master - on the diagram, in principle, everything is clear

Bold sketch of the master - on the diagram, in principle, everything is clear

Making such a stove and it's worth considering how the is the most optimal option.

Materials for the work of

The following materials are required for erecting a brick stove:

  • Red and fireclay bricks.
  • Grate( cast-iron finished or self-made of steel rod ).
  • Valve.
  • Fuel and ash door.
  • One-burner hob.
  • Chimney duct.
  • Waterproofing material - ruberoid.
  • Asbestos material - it is most convenient to use asbestos cord
  • Steel wire.
  • A steel plate, 4 ÷ 5 mm thick, to separate the after the such will be provided.
  • Heat-resistant mortar for masonry mortar or clay, cement and sand.
Cast iron parts can be purchased at a special store

Cast iron parts can be purchased in a special store

When all materials are prepared, you can start working. It begins, of course, with the preparation of the ground.

What should I do to lay the stove?

Any furnace must be installed on the rigid reliable base.

If in a room where is built a burzhuyu, on the floor of - a good concrete screed, it can quite serve as a foundation for such a furnace, since the design is, in principle, small and relatively non- heavy .If the flooring is wooden, but it is made of a thick board, then it can sometimes withstand the mass of the furnace, but it is better, of course, to secure and go to another by - as indicated below.

  • It is not recommended to make a laying on the floor made of a thin board. In this case, will have before building the furnace, arrange the reliable foundation. It should have a size 10 to 12 cm wider in each side than the base of the furnace.
  • In order to fill the foundation nt pr is going to dismantle the floor area in the place where the burzhujka will be installed.
  • In the underground of the underground digging pit, depth of 300 ÷ 350 mm, which is poured and tamped sand layer - its thickness should be 50 ÷ 70 mm.
  • The top of the sand cushion is filled with gravel middle fraction, which is also rammed.
  • On the gravel is packed with reinforcing mesh, and is rebuilt from the formwork boards for pouring concrete into .It is best to build its so that it rises above the wooden floor by 70 ÷ 100 mm.
  • The next stage in the formwork is poured a rough concrete mixture consisting of cement, gravel and sand. After the concrete is poured, it is necessary to release it from the air internal bubbles - , this is done by " by bayonet " using a conventional shovel pierced by the solution in several places.
  • The surface of the foundation is leveled and left to dry. This cc for is from two weeks to one month, depending on the thickness of the embedded structure. For uniformity of ripening and to avoid drying and cracking, daily for the first week, starting from the second day, the surface should be moistened with water.
Filled foundation for a small stove

Filled foundation for small

  • After drying the foundation, before lay out the first row, a sheet of waterproofing material - roofing material - is placed on its surface on the mastic.

If the floor seems reliable , and decided to erect a stove without a foundation device, then the foundation for the masonry, everything must be prepared early.

  • In this case, an asbestos sheet is laid on the boards, on top of which is laid a polyethylene film .
  • On film a layer of sand, 8 ÷ 10 mm thick, on which the first row of the furnace will be laid, is poured.

Masonry of the

  • The mortar when laying the first row is applied only to the ends of the - brick with sand poured from the bottom, the brick is not fastened. However, to begin with, the entire first row is best laid out dry, to determine its placement and level by level. Only after this, a solution is applied to the ends, and the bricks are fastened together.
The order and the general scheme of a compact brick furnace

Order and general outline of a compact brick burner

  • The second row starts the installation of the ash door. Its is installed on a layer of thick clay mortar and fixed to a wire, which is fastened to the lugs for special holes. It is recommended to wrap the with its asbestos with rope or a strip cut from a single sheet before installing the door. An air chamber is formed behind the door.
Installing the ash door

Installing the ashtail door

  • In the third row, the ash chamber is covered with a grate with the grate.
The grate was replaced by a grate

The grate

  • At the the fourth series begins to form a chamber of firebox and smoke ducts. Bricks are installed on the butt. Inside the channels, stands are mounted on which the following rows will be laid, as there must be a hole for the exit of smoke. Masonry of the back wall is made without mortar.
  • After laying the fourth row, above it install the combustion chamber door . mounting is carried out by type of blower, and the door is temporarily fixed also by means of a wire which is fixed by bricks installed on the sides.
  • The fifth row is laid out according to the scheme. All the bricks are laid flat, except for those that form the chimney ducts with internal walls.
  • On the sixth row, the brick is placed on the butt, and this row is the last when the brick is put in this way. The rear wall is put bricks, mounted on the butt in two rows.
  • The seventh row is put according to the scheme.
  • On the eighth row is overlapping furnace door masonry of two bricks on top. In this row, tied brick is installed on the rear wall, which will guide the flame towards the burner.
  • On the ninth row, asbestos strips are placed in the place where the hob will be laid, which will ensure a tightness between the bricks and the metal part. Clutch goes , according to the scheme.
  • On the tenth row the hob is laid and the formation of the chimney pipe starts.
  • On the eleventh row a valve is installed on the flue gas duct. Her is stacked on asbestos strips and smeared with clay mortar.
Installing the gate valve on the chimney duct

Installing the damper on the chimney channel

  • Next, goes chimney laying on two to three rows, into which metal tube is then attached, which is then removed through the wall or attic ceiling and roof. Do not forget about its heat-resistant insulation when passing through combustible wall materials or overlap. Isolate t t rubbing mineral wool, the thickness of which should be at least 170 ÷ 200 mm.
  • The folded oven is left to dry, flush its is not recommended immediately. To accelerate the process ss pr drying, it is recommended to temporarily install a conventional light bulb for 100 ÷ 150 W and leave for it included .
  • When drops of condensate will stop settling on cast-iron closed doors, or such evaporation will be reduced to a minimum, oven can be started gradually to heat, which will help it to dry up to the end. The furnace for drying should be carried out with the doors and the latch open.
  • It is not necessary to hurry up the brick burzhuks - it is necessary to give it to work at least the season, because on the seams there may appear cracks that need to be repaired before finishing.
  • Finishing of the surfaces of the stove is done with clay mortar. It is applied with a spatula and well leveled. Instead, it is possible to use heat-resistant compositions for furnaces and fireplaces.
  • Next, the surface can be whitewashed or tiled with decorative tiles.

It is very important to properly shape the base of the oven, so that the sand, poured under it , remained in place. Therefore, around the burner on the floor it is recommended to lay the tile or fix the metal sheet with the approach to the masonry of the furnace. Another one way to close the sand under the oven is to install around this skirting structure, preferably - ceramic.

Brick burger with metal

This version of the burger is made of two basic materials - metal and fireclay bricks, which is able to withstand temperatures reaching 950 ÷ 1000 degrees. Such a stove is very durable and economical in operation, thanks to a well thought out design.

Effective solution of heat preservation: outside - metal, inside - brick

Effective heat preservation solution: outside - metal, inside - brick

Materials for the manufacture of

For its manufacturing requires the purchase of the following materials:

  • Steel sheet, thickness not less than 3 ÷ 4 mm.
  • The angle of steel is approximately 40 × 40 × 3.
  • Fireclay bricks.
  • Grate grating .
  • Chimney pipe.

Preparation of metal parts

Drawing of the metal component of the complex furnace

Drawing of the metal component of the integrated stove

Drawing on the drawing , all details of the future stove are drawn on metal sheets, and then they are cut with grinder , gas or plasma cutting device, welding machine. To transfer the drawing to the metal, use a ruler, gon, compass and tailor chalk.

On the sheets, two side walls, a bottom plane, an upper hob, as well as a front and rear wall are to be placed.

On the front panel, the combustion and blast holes are marked and cut. Also on all the walls you can immediately cut out the shape of the legs.

In the upper panel, a circular hole is cut for the installation of a smoke exhaust pipe.

The stove in a cut - so it is easier to correctly understand its device

The stove in a section - so it is easier to correctly understand its device

On the this schematic section the components forming the burglary are indicated in the following order:

1. - Metal case.

2. - The door is blown out.

3. - The furnace door.

4. - Lattice of the grate.

5. - Fireclay masonry.

Mounting of the

Installation is carried out alternately - then welding, then masonry works

turbofan. Installation is carried out alternately, then the welding, then the masonry works of the

The of the metal case is manufactured in the following way:

  • The inside is welded with a continuous seam of one of the side walls from the front and rear.
  • Further, the marking of the place where the bottom of the structure is welded and then welding is made, is also with a continuous seam.
  • When three panels are welded, it is necessary to arrange supporting elements for laying bricks. They are made from a metal corner, which is welded to the walls along the entire inner perimeter of the shell, at the level of the upper edge of the blowing hole. Two metal strips are welded to the corners installed on the rear and front walls at a distance from each other, which is equal to the width of the grate.
  • The next step of the is the carrying the welded structure onto the prepared foundation, since the subsequently , with the inside bricks, to transfer the to its will be much more difficult or even impossible.
  • Having moved the case to its "regular" place, it is possible to start laying fireclay bricks.

For brickwork you will need a brick of the following sizes:

Bricks for interior masonry

Bricks for internal masonry of the

1. - One-piece bricks having a size of 230 × 113 × 65 mm - 36 pieces.

2. - Half of the brick, of the divided along, in size 260 × 62 × 65 mm - 4 pieces.

3. - Half of the brick, of the divided across , in size 172 × 113 × 65 mm - 2 pieces.

  • On bricks intended for laying the grate, it is necessary to arrange in the edges of the grooves, and drown them deep into the masonry so that the grate is installed tightly and flush with the surface of the combustion chamber. Unfortunately, in the figures this point clearly is not indicated.
  • Next, on the first row of masonry arranged from the corner of the stand, it should hang over the blowing chamber.
Beginning of the internal masonry

Beginning of the inner workpiece

  • The following actions are carried out by the on the rear and along the side walls, and a combustion chamber opening is left on the front panel. The brick is installed on the end and flat - in the figure is very clearly visible its correct installation.
Laying out the side walls of the turbojet

Laying out the side walls of the

  • Before installing the , the grate is installed in the middle of the square .
Formed aperture for the heating door

Formed aperture for the fire door

  • Next, the completion of the brick walls to the top. To brick rigidly held above the opening for the furnace, it is shifted by a metal strip.
  • Then, it is necessary to close the top of the structure. This is done with the help of ten bricks, with two of them cut off into ¼ pieces. The trimmed bricks are laid in the rear part of the - structure, they form a hole in which the flue pipe will be mounted. For rigidity overlapping under the bricks of the ceiling, a metal strip is also placed along its middle.
Completion of the masonry - complete blocking of the furnace chamber with brick

Completion of masonry - complete blockage of the combustion chamber with brick

  • Masonry should be made without mortar, but it can also be applied. For this, a heat-resistant mixture is used, specially designed for laying fireplaces and stoves.
  • After the has been completed to the , the second side wall and the roof of the stove are welded, into which the nozzle is mounted. On it will be welded a pipe, taken out into the street. External welding seams should be made as carefully as possible.

The

firebox door The next step is to make the firebox door of the below.

Drawing for the manufacture of the furnace door

Drawing for the manufacture of the

  • furnace door. The ears with a hole are cut from the steel sheets and welded in the designated places of the cut door. These devices will play the role of awnings.
The furnace door

Door of the combustion chamber

  • On the opposite side to the lugs, a handle is installed in the with a drilled hole, to which a tongue is welded on the inside of the door. When you turn the knob, it will also turn and will not allow the door to open spontaneously.
The simplest lock for closing the door

The simplest lock for closing the door

  • The elements are welded on the wall with holes, which can also be called eyelets. Between them and will be inserted a door-lid. The holes are aligned and the fixing pin is installed in them, which will hold the door, but will not interfere with its opening and closing.
Suspension of the door on the body of the stove

Suspension of the door on the body of the

  • In the same way, the door is made and installed. For door panels, you can use pieces of metal previously cut from the front panel, pretreating their edges to make them look more aesthetically pleasing.
The ash-pan door differs, in principle, only in linear dimensions

The ash-pan door differs, in principle, only in linear dimensions of

  • . After the furnace is ready, it is necessary to clean external welding seams and then paint with heat-resistant paint.

This turbojet design has a number of undeniable advantages over other types of these compact small stoves:

  • It does not require much fuel for heating the room, since permanently retains heat for the .
  • A layer of heat-resistant fireclay bricks protects the metal from burning out.
  • The compactness of this oven allows the to be installed on its even in a small room.
  • For this design, metal of different thicknesses can be used.
  • The case does not require finishing with expensive materials - it is enough to put heat-resistant paint on metal, and oven will look quite aesthetically.

Cast-iron burner lined with bricks

To increase heat output and increase fuel economy, conventional cast-iron stoves are often bricked. Especially relevant is this process for and a metal bath furnace, because when it is heated, there is a risk of getting a very severe burn.

Another option - a metal burzhuyka, lined with bricks

Another option - a metal burzhuyu lined with bricks

The brick is lined with burgers, installed in other residential premises, because well-executed masonry looks very respectable and aesthetic.

The diagram clearly shows the air circulation around the cast-iron stove, laid with masonry. The powerful convection hot air flow contributes to the very fast heating of the entire volume premises.

Scheme of created convection currents

Diagram of generated convection currents

As the already installed kiln is laid, it means that the foundation for filling is , which makes it much easier to fill. With mortar for masonry will also not be a problem, as in the specialized shops are sold dry mixes for the manufacture of heat-resistant mortars, with the help of which the brick is fixed. It remains only to prepare a place around the construction and to start work.

Brick laying around the metal case

  • Laying the main first row, one brick must be adjusted to another one according to the level, since it will set the entire masonry evenly. It is best to carry out this procedure with dry, and if necessary, adjust the row to the ideal horizontal with the help of pads. As the latter, you can use an old ceramic tile or another, rigid , a non-flammable and non-absorbent material.
  • After verifying the dry laying of the first row, you can prepare the mortar and lay bricks on it, laying the leveling elements.
  • The first row is laid close to the metal surface. Bricks should not lie along the side wall of the furnace, but perpendicular to it. Thus, is created by flat rigid framework for further masonry - a kind of foundation.
  • Further, marking is carried out on the laid first row, as the remaining rows are laid not close to the metal surface of the furnace, but at a distance of 50 to 100 mm. If this rule is not met, the brick will not heat up well, or the effect of long-term heat preservation, for which is primarily , will be achieved, and the is given the technological event.

The optimal clearance is between two surfaces of 50 ÷ 70 mm. Having arranged it, it is possible is guaranteed by to achieve the set purpose.

Marking is carried out with the help of a meter ruler and chalk. It is recommended to measure the necessary distances and draw the place where the second row will be laid out.

  • Set the direction of the wall, while maintaining the necessary clearance, you can by laying the prepared pieces of brick, having the necessary width of the gap, on the first row close to the cast iron body.

These "sizing" pieces of bricks are laid on the mortar, and next to them begin to build the lining wall.

  • Brick in the wall can be installed both on the butt and in the usual way, flat, at the discretion of the master. However, you need to take into account that when laying a brick flat, it will need twice as much.
  • After completing the laying of two rows, on the third one it is necessary to leave several holes for the between the bricks for providing air circulation in the gap between the metal and brick surfaces.
  • When laying, it is necessary to keep the vertical of the wall and the horizontal of the rows under control, constantly checking these parameters with the help of the plummet and the building level.
  • If it is necessary to get a beautiful neat masonry, the seams between the rows are made with the help of a binder, but this must be done immediately while the masonry mortar does not seize. It is also important to keep the same distance between rows and bricks in the row so that the seams are even. Sometimes for this purpose, there are scribed rails having the necessary parameters.
Stove before and after lining it with bricks

Furnace before and after the brick is laid

When two rows remain before the end of the laying, in the penultimate one also it is necessary to leave gaps between the bricks in several places - through them in the room will be supplied heat during the convection circulation of air.

It is much easier to fold a brickburst out of brick than to build one of the models of massive furnaces. If there is a scheme for the construction of a compact turbo-charger at hand, the necessary material and the necessary tools, without doubting, one can get down to business.

Video: compact brick stove with with +

The volume and the difficulty of working on the already assembled and installed metal burglar are also quite affordable even for the beginner. The main - is not to hurry and do not be lazy to check the wall and rows in level, because if

leaves one of the rows towards , further laying will not be smooth either, and most of the work of will have to be reworked.

instagram viewer