Plaster of wooden walls - waiting a year and a half and. ..
Stop! And why wait for something? Maybe right after the construction of the house we'll start, the bar is not cheap, why wait a year and a half - for the mice to have expanse? But the plaster house plastering is immediately unacceptable. Because it is necessary to give time to the house to stand, to pass the stage of shrinkage, so that the beams( or logs) are caked together, condensed. If at this time to start plastering, all the finishing in a year or two will crack and fall. True, knowledgeable people say that wooden buildings up to 8 years of shrinkage, but a particularly active phase of this process falls on the first year and a half.
And after the time required for the shrinkage of the wooden walls, you can start working. However, the question immediately becomes what kind of plaster is suitable for wooden walls. The tree is, of course, rough, but if the putty on it is applied superbly, the plaster will probably fall off after drying. But here, in fact, there is nothing to think about, as plaster will suit any, from the cheapest, to the Venetian. It is only necessary to determine whether the plastering of the walls of the wooden house is an independent coating, or it is planned to be wallpapered or painted.
Plaster on wood, preparation for work
So, the house stood without tenants and already, probably, was bored by human attention, it's time to start decorating the walls, and then start a housewarming party. But before you start spreading the plaster on wood, you need to do some preparatory work. To start, you need a lot of dranes - wooden narrow beams - for padding on walls. As a rule, pine is used for drenching, and the rays can be as stabbed, with a width of 15 to 20 mm, as well as sawed, a bit wider, about 30 mm. Dricking can be replaced with dry reed stems or willow twigs, split in two. True, reeds and rods are more difficult to prick to the wall, so it's better to use the rays after all.
Preparing knitting drings, we begin to sort it, because the lunches will need to be pinned in two levels, perpendicular to each other and at an angle of 45 degrees to the floor. Directly to the wall we will prikolachivat narrow bars of any degree of curvature, it will be the lower, prosthetic row, but on top we will lay and fasten the output drill, wider and smooth. It should be noted that the lower row is only slightly fixed with nails, it will be kept by the output drani, nailed as it should. When the entire top row of the drani is nailed, nails are extracted from the lower strips. The main two rules when stuffing a drana on the wall:
- Do not connect the ends of the rails following one after another in a single line, as the tree swells and can play outside, destroying the plaster.
- Reiki before packing on a wall is better than it is necessary to wet, there will be less probability that they will split.
Now it remains only to find out how far apart the larvae are from striking. Too tight does not make sense, we still do not stack the lining. The optimal distance between the struts of the prosthetic row is 45 mm, but in the case where a heater is used on the inner surface of the walls, the gap between the shanks is reduced to 40 mm. With this it is clear - the plastering of the wooden walls is complex in itself, and with the insulation the plaster is generally incompatible. For a ceiling the distance is set even less - 25 mm, or 20 mm with a heater. The output drill is pinned with a gap between the beams of 40 mm, and on the ceiling - 30 mm. Why do the gaps on the ceiling shrink, I think, clearly? Of course, that the plaster, which will be crammed under the outlet of the drill, had a larger number of junction points of smaller area and, accordingly, did not fall off under its own weight.
The plaster of the wooden house begins playing
When the last drill is nailed, you can admire the resulting crate, and even take a picture for memory, since you will not see it again, it will disappear under a thick layer of plaster. Moreover, the time has just come for the plastering of the walls of the wooden house. The first layer will be rough, and you need to pre-adjust to the fact that before the final decorative finish is still quite far. Plaster is applied( rather liquid, creamy) on the wall covered with drenched water, that is, with strong confident swings of the hand with sharp stopping it near the wall, after which the plaster is sent to a free flight. When colliding with a crate, the plaster remains partially on the beams, but the bulk penetrates between the drone planks to the wall or insulation, and completely fills the space under the output beams. So, gradually, we cover the entire crate with plaster.
When the first layer starts to solidify, that is, it already thoroughly seizes, we begin to apply a second layer, a primer. Here we have to work not with sour cream, but with a dough, this is the consistency that must be in plaster. This time we do not throw plaster with careless movements, but spread it with a trowel or trowel. This layer will be the main layer, and it needs to be made extremely flat and relatively smooth. The primer layer can differ from the cover layer, it can be already decorative plaster, whereas it is possible to cast a simple and inexpensive plank through the crate. The thickness of the primer layer should not exceed 12 mm, ideally it is better to limit to 7 millimeters.
The third and last layer, called "covering", should be made with the same plaster as the primer. If, for example, "Venetian" is used, then it can be plaster under a tree, then, going inside, no one will notice that the walls are plastered, especially if the outside of the tree did not get rid of anything. But even more interesting if the Venetian plaster of the timber house will imitate the stone. That's when the effect will be really stunning - the stone walls in the wooden house, it's something. But, it's too early to say what and how it will look like, you need to finish finishing. The last layer is applied very thin, and the consistency of the plaster again should be like sour cream. Carefully leveling, we apply plaster by all rules, thickness of a layer from two up to five millimeters. The smears must be strong enough to make the last layer dense at once. It is clear that decorative plaster for wood or stone is applied according to the appropriate technique.
And that's when the last smear will be done, you can breathe peacefully, take a few more photographs and wait for it to dry up. Further there will be other finishing works, in particular, if the plaster is decorative, you may need to wax it, but the main thing is done, you can be proud of the result.