Warming the facade of the house with foam plastic

To carry out a qualified insulation of the facade of a house made of foam plastic is quite possible. The task of any insulation to prevent heat exchange between the indoor and outdoor environment. Insulated with foam plastic room acquires the quality properties of the thermos. In cold weather, warm air does not cool down for a long time, and in the summer coolness remains. This has a significant impact on utility bills.

. Heat leakage in a non-insulated room reaches 35%.If you follow the simple technology of insulation of the facade of the house with foam plastic, all the work can be done by yourself. The process of warming the house's facade with polystyrene is presented in the video in the final part of the article.

Types of polystyrene for house insulation

Polyfoam, expanded polystyrene ordinary and extruded refer to the same group of heaters. In composition they are identical, but differ only in density, heat conductivity and price. The installation and installation methods do not differ.

1. Expanded polystyrene foam is styrofoam. It is produced in plates 1x1 and 1x0.5 m in size and from 2 to 10 cm in thickness. For insulation of the facade of the house, depending on the thickness of the walls, a foam 4 to 5 cm thick is used. It differs in density. The most popular foams with a density of 25 to 50 units. Loose structures of foam plates with a low density tend to absorb moisture. To eliminate this trouble, the foam surface is additionally treated with waterproofing mastics.
2. Expanded polystyrene or extruded polystyrene foam has a higher density and, correspondingly, at the same thickness as the foam plastic, the heat-insulating qualities are higher. Some companies edge the foam polystyrene with a L-shaped lock. This avoids the emergence of cold bridges at the joints.

Any of the foams for warming the house does not rot, is durable and almost does not absorb moisture. Combination of foam with other types of insulation is not a violation of technology.

Calculation of materials for insulation of the facade of the house with polystyrene foam

Having decided to insulate the facade of the private house with polystyrene, it is necessary to compute the calculation. Calculating the materials needed for warming is made very simply.

1. The length of the insulated wall is multiplied by the height. From the received area is subtracted the area of ​​door and window openings. Then, the number of sheets of foam is calculated. They are produced in size 1x1 and 1x0.5 meters.
2. The sheets are mounted from the corner in a staggered manner. Calculate the required number of sheets of meter and half a meter. On each sheet of insulation there are 5 plastic dowels( builders call them fungi, parachutes or umbrellas).Four dowels are driven into the corners and one in the center.
3. The consumption of adhesive mixture, dry plaster and putty depends on the thickness of the layer, brand and manufacturer. The material consumption grid, taking into account the area of ​​1 m2 with a different thickness of the layer, is applied to the package.

For the reinforcing layer, it is necessary to purchase a fiberglass mesh. It is available in rolls with a width of 1 meter. The total area of ​​the reinforcing mesh should correspond to the area of ​​the insulated surface.

Tool and materials for the facade insulation of the house

• Kirochka or hammer.
• Topography.
• Construction level and plumb line.
• Drill with bump or perforator, drill for concrete and nozzle mixer.
• Trowel and spatula( 80, 250 and 1200 mm).
• Roulette - 5 m and level rake( 1.2 m).
• Grinder or grater with clamps.
• Brush, roller or spray for primer.
• Mounting knife with extendable blade.

From the purchase of:

• polystyrene foam 1x1m and 1x0.5 m;
• dry glue mixture for styrofoam;
• dry facade plaster;
• putty mix "start" and "finish";
• plastic dowels with a wide hat of the "fungus" type;
• deep penetrating priming impregnation;
• plastic reinforcing mesh( 80 - 140 density 5x5 * cell).

Preparations for the insulation of a private house with foam plastic

1. Dismantling window sills, storm pipes, visors and other hanging elements on the insulated facade of the house. The old plaster from the walls is hammered or hammered with a hammer. If necessary, for a better grasp of materials on the walls, an oblique incision is applied with a hatchet.
2. The facade wall is leveled. The bulges are knocked off with a kink or a hatchet, and the cavities and holes are closed. Seal cavities can be cement mortar, gypsum or alabaster.

Calcareous whitewash must be removed. It can be scraped off or washed off with water.

The technology of installing foam plates on the facade of the house and plaster

1. In the bucket with water drill with a mixer, the adhesive for the foam is mixed. The solution is not too liquid. It should not slide off the spatula and the foam sheet. On the meter sheet insulation is applied uniformly 16 - 18 smears of glue. The sheet is squeezed tightly to the lower corner of the front wall and is aligned in all directions. The first sheet is checked by level and fixed with plastic dowels. A sheet of 1x0.5 meter is placed on top of it. The sheet is pressed tight against the wall and is clapped by hands. In this way, the chess order for the installation of the foam plastic will be specified.
2. After fixing 7 - 12 sheets, fix the sheets with dowels. Having rechecked the laying of the insulation sheets on the wall level, drill holes in the corners and in the center of each sheet. The tip of each plastic dowel is cut with a knife. This is important, otherwise it may not open up and not gain a foothold in the nest. The plug is inserted into the hole and padded with the palm until it is sealed into the foam. A plastic spacer nail is inserted into the central hole of the dowel cap and is hammered with a hammer. If the hat is 3 - 4 mm deep into the foam, cover it with glue solution.

Straight seams between foam plates are greased with a glue mixture. Slots and wide inconsistent glades are filled with polystyrene cuttings and glued. Sometimes cracks and hard-to-reach places are blown out with mounting foam.

1. Foam reinforced fiberglass mesh is applied to the foam. The mesh strip is unwound from the top down and cut by the mounting knife to the size. The upper part is temporarily fixed with plastic studs on the foam. The mixed plaster mortar is taken on a wide spatula and, removing a little solution with a small spatula, a mesh is caught. After making a few strokes on the top of the grid, grease it in the middle from top to bottom. Then disperse the plaster mixture to the sides. When plastering in this way, the grid will not collapse and there will be no folds. The next grid strip is exposed with an overlap of 5 cm and plastered in the same way.
2. If necessary, taking into account further finishing works, a thin to 8 mm or thick to 40 mm plaster layer is made. For a thick layer of plaster, use a metal mesh. The dried plaster is covered with a deeply penetrating primer mix. The primer glues the plaster layer, prevents the appearance of microcracks and penetration of moisture.

Putty of insulated and plastered facade of the house

After the insulation of the house with polystyrene and the finishing of the facade with plaster, putty is made. Putty work is not always necessary. When finishing the facade with wild stone, ceramic tile or siding, they are not needed. For whitewashing or painting the front part, it is required to make putty work.

1. Dry starting putty mixed with water. Use a drill and mixer for this. The solution should resemble thick cream in consistency. With a small spatula( 80 mm), the putty is equally distributed over a wide( 1200 mm) spatula. The putty paste is applied to the plastered facade and is evenly smoothed. The first layer is applied 3 - 4 mm thick. If necessary, align the wall or hide other flaws, the layer of putty can be thicker, or after drying another layer is applied.
2. Finishing putty has a finer dispersion structure. It is applied in the same way as the starting one. But at the same time it is smoothed much more carefully. The dried, puttyed wall is treated with a grinding machine or manually by a special grater with clamps for replaceable abrasive. As an abrasive, sandpaper is not recommended. The pores quickly become clogged, and the sandpaper becomes useless. For mashing the putty, use a metal or plastic mesh.

The surface of the front wall is impregnated with a primer. To do this, use a brush, roller or spray. The dried wall is ready for painting.

Video: facade insulation with polystyrene with their own hands