How to make an arch of plasterboard

On the second panel, the markup can be transferred simply by copying from the first one.

Second way

For the second way of marking the line of an arch arc, you need a flexible plastic strip, a pencil and two pairs of hands.

- First you need to determine what the height will be at the curved part of the arc at the highest point. To do this, the bar is applied to the opening of the door between the fixed on the with profiles. One end of the strap must be applied to bottom edge profile , enshrined on side left wall opening , the highest its point on the curve must touch the middle point horizontally fixed profile, and third point of the strap touch is the bottom edge of the profile on the right wall.

- At the last touch point with the profile on the bar, the - mark is made and it will determine the length of the same arc that defines the curved cut-out section.

- Further, the same is done on the panel of gypsum board, where, just as in the first variant, 50 mm are already marked along the edges. One of the masters holds the bar, so to combine with the lines of its the beginning and the made mark, and the second draws on it the boundary of the arched semicircle.

- Then, the marked area is sawed with a jig saw.

The third version of

The third option is the hard cardboard in size, removed from the door, the pattern of the arched section. It can also be marked with a homemade "compass" from a cord and a pencil.

- The finished template is applied to the panel of plasterboard, outline its contour with a pencil, and then the part to be removed is cut with a jig saw.

- The template will not allow a mistake and the semicircle will be perfectly even.

The next stage is preparing a metal profile for the curved frame parts, on which the lower part of the cut out gypsum board panels will be fixed. To cut off the length of the length of the profile, you can use the same flexible bar, which marks the length of the arc forming the arch vault.

Prepare two such sections of the profile. Then on them using scissors for metal or grinders cuts are made, due to which it will be easy to bend the profile in an arc with the necessary radius of bending.

It is necessary for the to specifically note the that if the arch is of a small thickness, then sometimes a single wide metal profile with made on the with cuts is sufficient to fix the to the it two panelsfrom two sides. The profile should be recessed inside the arch to the thickness of the drywall used, since later the lower arch strip will be attached to this curvilinear part of the frame.

The rest of the elements will be cut out during the installation work - usually there are no special difficulties with them.

Mounting of the frame base of the arch

Metal frame from the galvanized profile

• The installation of the arch begins with the installation of gypsum plasterboard elements with cut out semi-circles that are fastened in the door to the metal profiles screwed into the .

For fixing the drywall use special screws and screwdriver .

These elements are fixed on both sides of the door .

• Further, an incised and bent metal profile is screwed on the inner side of the cut arched .When carrying out work, it is necessary to hold the profile with one hand, pressing it exactly in the shape of the arch.

This part is screwed first to one side, and then - to the second.

• The frame will not have the rigidity due and the structural integrity if not installed between the metal arched elements of the perpendicular sections of the profile. They will connect the plasterboard walls of the arch with each other. These jumpers are installed in several places in the arch structure.

For fastening the crosspieces on the profile, self-tapping screws with wide hats and a sharper nose are used.

Mounting of the wooden frame of the arch

If the fabrication of the frame from the metal profile seemed too complicated, then it can be mounted from wood.

• For this you need to prepare size 20 × 20mm - blocks for fastening to gypsum board, and 30x30 mm - for fastening of wall to .
• Next, an arch is marked on the plasterboard, sawed out, and then wooden blocks with the ends located on the furcrew are screwed onto the inner surface of the element.

• A 30 mm gap is left at the edges of the part, which will be taken by the bars installed in the door .
• door walls are marked in the same way as when attaching a metal profile, only 30 × 30 mm
• are fixed in place of the markings.
• then, the prepared arched panel is applied to with its "nominal place" and screwed into the opening , to wooden blocks installed in the and .

It is possible to do and in another way - fix the bars to the edges of the plasterboard, and then to fix the finished panel to the wall. But in this case, it will not be very convenient to work, , especially when secures the second panel with an arch, as it will be difficult to climb between two arched elements with the screwdriver .

Carrying out the

cable Before proceeding to the manufacture and installation of the lower part of the arch, an electrical cable is carried out if the has a backlight for the .

The cable contact points are fixed to the metal profile at approximately the point where spot light fixtures are to be installed. It is best if the cable is enclosed by the in a plastic corrugated pipe - to avoid accidental damage to the insulation on the sharp edges of the galvanized profiles.

When the prepared lower strip of plasterboard is installed, it will perfectly cover all the unattractiveness of the wires.

Manufacture and installation of the lower gypsum plasterboard panel arches

When the frame and frontal parts of the arch are installed, you can proceed to fabricate a bottom strip that will cover the entire unsightly appearance of the frame.

First, the tape measure measures the total length of the arcuate arch of the arch and the width of the distance between the installed arched frame parts.

Dimensions are transferred to plasterboard, and from it a rectangular strip of the required dimensions is sawed out.

Next, the gypsum cardboard strip needs to be bent into an arch, however, the material is hard and brittle, so it can easily be broken by spoiling the part. In order for the process ss to go smoothly, you can use two ways to bend this material:

1. The prepared part is marked along its entire length by 50 mm wide strips.

• Next, on the marked lines cuts are made, approximately half the depth of the plasterboard.
• The part then gently bends and immediately, without delay, is screwed to the metal profile that is inside the arch structure.

Video: a simple arc in the

2. The is still easier than the first , but the will take the a little more time, since the will have to wait for ,so that the material accepts the as desired.

First, through the gypsum cardboard strip with effort pass needle needles, which pierces its sharp spines the top layer of cardboard.

If in the arsenal of the master there is no such roller, you can use the sharp construction knife -, with it on the surface of gypsum board cuts size 20 ÷ 30 mm, at a distance from each other in 15-20 mm, both in length, and in width.

Next step, the panel, from the puncture side, must be moistened with a sponge of water and lean against the wall, setting the long side vertically.

After about 15-20 minutes, you will see the first results of the - panel will start the bend under its weight. Then the part is again wetted and the is left for another for 40 minutes.

It is possible to shoot ( a kind of conductor) with door dimensions from of three boards specially for perfect arch bending with the dimensions of the door where the arch will be installed. Then flip the to its , setting it to the horizontal part.

Further, in the same way, after moistening the plasterboard part with water, its is laid on the feet of the with the inverted of the letter P, moistened with the side up. After 20 minutes, its the middle of the will start the to sag inside the design. Then, its is again wetted and left for 40 ÷ 60 minutes for complete subsidence to the horizontal web of the structure.

By the way, a similar method of flexing the gypsum cardboard strip sometimes allows the arch to be performed without the without the frame, as shown in the attached video:

Video : giving the a bend of the gypsum board arch

. Another wet gypsum board is attached to the metal profile with screws that are screwed in at a distancenot more than 100 mm from each other.

The next stage in the planned places on this part of the arch holes are cut, into which after finishing it will be possible to install spotlights( if their installation is provided).

After making holes, they need to tighten the cables inside the structure, but do not completely remove them from the holes, since the protruding ends of the wires will interfere with the finish.

Finishing the arch

After completing the installation of the frame and plating, you can proceed to the finish of the arch with putty. Only close the in the sevs and seizures from the heads of the self-tapping screws with the mixture and align with its , you can get a neat arch.

The process ssetting is carried out in three stages:

- the first layer aligns the deep flaws;

- second - prints out smooth arch forms;

- the third layer is finishing, and with its help the ideal smoothness of the surface is achieved.

• However, before taking on the putty, it is recommended to reinforce the corners of the arch with a special perforated corner that the easily adopts any curved shape.

Fiberglass mesh can be used instead of the corners, but it does not dash t t clear , flat and reinforced edge, which can provide a corner. The angles are mounted using self-tapping screws, which are screwed at a distance of 150 ÷ ​​200 mm from each other.

• Next, you can go to work with putty.

For work with gypsum cardboard, putty is used on acrylic or gypsum-based, intended for interior work.

Acrylic composition can be purchased in ready pasty form, gypsum mixture is sold in the form of a dry construction mix. The is mixed with its immediately before use. It is best to do this with a mixer nozzle, which is attached to a drill.

You need to know that you can not mix a large amount of putty right away, as it very quickly seizes, so its needs to be prepared in small portions. On the package of building materials, there must be an instruction that must be carefully studied in order to find out the exact time of the "life" of the prepared composition and the complete drying of the plastered surface.

• The first step is to finish the joints of plasterboard and the main walls of the door .

are sealed. The work is carried out with the help of wide and medium-sized spatulas. One of them put a filler on the joint, and, as far as is possible, smooth out by comparing the surfaces of the drywall and door of the opening.

• gap as much as possible. After sealing the joints between the plasterboard and the wall in the opening of the door, you can immediately close the tapping screws of the screws on this part of the structure. Carrying out this process, you need to remember that the surface should be perfectly flat, so you need to achieve this effect. For this stage of work, you can apply a metal trowel, which will immediately cover a large area.

• self-cutters are necessarily sealed. The first layer is the deep joints of the plasterboard with the wall. Here it is very important to distribute the putty in all grooves and chips, as it is necessary to bring the seams on one level with a wall and an arch structure.

Do not overly thick layers of material, as the raw putty can quickly separate from the surface of the wall. It's okay if necessary, instead of three you can put four layers of filler - , they will hold much safer than than two or three very thick ones.

• When applying the putty on all the wide joints, while it is still dry, a reinforcing fiberglass mesh should be applied from above. This easy-to-use material can be purchased at any desired width, so there will be no problems with the reinforcement of wide gaps.

From the spool the length of the mesh needed is measured, and with the help of a spatula this tape is then pressed into the putty, stretched and aligned.

• The arched bend, trimmed on both sides with a perforated corner, also must be treated with a layer of putty, comparing the surfaces.

If the joint of two planes of drywall on the arched aperture is reinforced with a fiberglass mesh, then if necessary its can be cut in some places, since it should lie perfectly flat on the surface, without waves and wrinkles.

• When all seams are sealed and reinforced with reinforcing materials, the first layer is left to dry.
• After it has dried out on the tops it is necessary to walk through medium-grained sandpaper to smooth out the dried putty. This should be tried to "knock down" all the sharp projections so that they do not interfere with further work. But, at the same time , it is necessary to process the construction very carefully, so as not to expose the reinforcing elements.

The aligned joints must be well cleaned of dust with a damp sponge.

• Next, you can go to the second thin layer of finishing putty, which should close and align all surfaces.
• After its drying, the entire structure is cleaned with a fine sandpaper( with a grain of the order of 220).

Before applying the third layer, it is necessary to carry out again the measures for cleaning all joints and smooth surfaces from of the putty.

• The finish layer should make the finish smooth. Putty is applied in a very thin layer, and in this case is the perfect pasty material made on acrylic base.

In the process of work, it is necessary to smooth out all traces left by the spatula.

• Having finished the putty, the structure is left to dry, at least for 8 ÷ 12 hours. The level of drying of the material can be determined by its color - it should lighten up to pure white .
• Next, goes the process went to , and it is better to hold it with a special grinding machine on which fine-grained abrasive paper is fixed( grain 280 ÷ 400), then - soft polishing cloth.

Grinding is carried out until the surface becomes perfectly smooth.

• After the arch is polished, you can paint it, if it was planned. After painting in the door aperture special built-in point lights are installed.

Making and installing the arch - is not such a complicated process. The main thing is to understand little things , as each of the stages of work passes, and understand in in this nuance, you can purchase materials and get down to business.

And for those who already have a hand, it is possible to offer the task and it is more difficult:

Video: a monumental arch with columns