Processing a greenhouse from spider mites in spring, pest control measures (including cucumbers) and plant infection prevention, photo

Favorable greenhouse conditions contribute to the rapid growth and development of not only cultivated plants. Many insect pests and strive to encroach on the result of human labor. The spider mite, despite its microscopic dimensions, is capable of causing significant damage, or even completely depriving the crop.

Damage to spider mites for plants

It is almost impossible for human eyes to discern a small pest, whose length rarely exceeds 0.1-0.2 mm, but the damage it causes is visible immediately. The insect settles on the back of the leaf blade, damages it with its proboscis, drawing out the juices. In this case, chloroplasts are destroyed and the process of photosynthesis in damaged cells ceases. The leaves become covered with whitish-yellow spots, then gradually dry completely.

The plant itself, on which the spider mite has settled (and this creature reproduces extremely quickly), weakens, worse resists diseases and other parasites, stops in development and dies. Its growing season is greatly reduced, which inevitably leads to significant crop losses.

Processing a greenhouse from a spider mite in the spring

Before starting a new garden season and planting plants in a greenhouse, it is necessary to properly prepare it in order to minimize the risk of plant damage by spider mites:

1. All structures must first be thoroughly washed with a brush with warm water and any detergent soap, paying special attention to joints, corners and other secluded places. Rinse with water from a hose.
2. A strong dark red solution of potassium permanganate process all the elements of the structure, not forgetting about the inventory and various devices (stakes, ropes, etc.).
3. If possible, replace the top layer (15–20 cm) of the earth or spill the soil with boiling water. To enhance the effect, cover with a plastic film for 2-3 days. The procedure is repeated three times. You can use a household portable steam generator.
4. Disinfect the greenhouse:
   • chemical preparations;
   • smoke bomb;
   • folk methods.

Chemicals

The greenhouse both inside and outside, as well as greenhouse soil, is carefully sprayed with one of the following compounds:

• colloidal sulfur (80 g per 10 liters of water);
• copper sulfate (5%);
• Bordeaux mixture (3%);
• bleach (0.4-0.6 kg of lime is poured with a bucket of water, insist 3-4 hours);
• specialized acaricides (Kleschevit, Kabofos, Aktellik, BI-58, etc.), working solutions are prepared according to the attached instructions.

Smoke bomb

Effective processing of greenhouses and greenhouses with sulfur smoke bombs. The gaseous sulfur dioxide released during this penetrates into the narrowest and most secluded places, into any openings and crevices, killing arthropods and their larvae even in the ground.

The technology is as follows:

1. Since sulfur compounds corrode metals, all metal elements must first be protected by coating them with any thick grease (solid oil, etc.).
2. They seal the room as much as possible, carefully sealing up all cracks and holes with sealant or tape.
3. On non-combustible substrates (metal sheets, bricks, etc.) place the required number of checkers.
4. Light the wicks, starting from the farthest edge and approaching the entrance.
5. They leave by closing the doors tightly.
6. The greenhouse is left closed for 2-3 days, then it is torn off and well ventilated for at least a day.

All work must be carried out with care and following the instructions exactly, as well as using personal protective equipment (gas mask, protective gloves, etc.).

To increase efficiency, it is recommended to slightly moisten the walls and ceiling before starting treatment. Reacting with water, sulfur dioxide is converted into weakly concentrated sulfuric acid, which has disinfecting properties.

Folk remedies

Some gardeners are afraid to use chemicals of chemical origin for processing the greenhouse, preferring folk methods tested by time and generations:

• Infusion of husks from onions. Half a bucket of onion husks pour 10 liters of boiling water and insist 2-3 days under a closed lid. After filtration, the entire structure is sprayed.
• Decoction of tansy. Dried tansy (200-300 g) is boiled in a bucket of water for about 15 minutes, cooled, filtered and used for processing.
• Infusion of citrus peels (orange, lime, mandarin, lemon). Ground peel (1 kg) is insisted for 5 days in 3 liters of water. The working solution is prepared from ½ cup of infusion and a bucket of water.
• Garlic infusion. To clear two large heads of scales, finely chop and pour a liter of warm water. After insisting for 5 days, strain and dilute with water in half.

How to prevent the appearance of a spider mite in a greenhouse

Spider mite is quite difficult to fight, however, it is possible to reduce the likelihood of its appearance in the greenhouse by taking several preventive measures:

• Timely twice a year (in autumn and spring) to clean up, wash and process the entire greenhouse design with appropriate preparations.
• It is imperative to carry out deep soil remediation, completely replacing or disinfecting it.
  

  Soil in the greenhouse must also be treated and watered with disinfectants

• In no case do not plant plants too thickly. Thickness should not be allowed.
• Constantly weed out weeds not only indoors, but also beyond its borders.
• For planting, choose varieties of eggplant, cucumber, tomato and pepper, the most resistant to damage by harmful arthropods.
• Indoors, maintain high air humidity (70–80%), which is uncomfortable for ticks.
• Spray the aerial part twice a day with cool water (ticks do not like this very much).
• Regularly (every 2-3 days) carefully inspect the planting, immediately pick off the affected leaves.
• Observe crop rotation by changing places.
• Plant repelling arachnid plants (calendula, marigolds, etc.).

Currently, there are still no cultivated plants that are not affected by spider mites at all. But some varieties of cucumbers (Augustine, Murashka, Benefis, etc.), eggplant (Caliph, Samurai Sword, etc.), peppers (Hercules, Prince, etc.), tomatoes (the Orange giant, Apollo, Estonian, etc.) like this arthropod pest much less.

Over the past few years, I have been trying to prevent the appearance of a spider mite in the greenhouse. To do this, in the morning and in the evening, I douse all the lashes of cucumbers with cold water from a hose through a mesh sprayer. Since this pest multiplies especially rapidly in hot and dry weather, it is possible to lower the temperature inside the room (by airing, spraying with water, shading, etc.). All these preventive measures can significantly extend the growing season, and reduce yield losses.

What to use methods of fight if infection has already occurred

It is quite difficult to deal with the spider mite that has settled in the greenhouse, traditional insecticides against this pest are ineffective. Guaranteed to help only specialized acaricidal drugs that kill any variety of arthropods (recall that the tick is not an insect). When processing plantings, it is necessary to work in rubber protective gloves and a respirator, avoiding contact with the active substance in open areas of the body and in the eyes.

There are universal remedies - insect acaracids, effective against ticks and a whole complex of harmful insects.

Chemical

In the struggle for the preservation of the crop, chemical products are the most effective. Since almost all of them are toxic, they should be used strictly according to the instructions, which must first be studied in the most careful way. Let's consider some of them in the table.

Table: Chemicals against a spider mite in a greenhouse

In case of severe infection of vegetable plantings with a spider mite, it is recommended after the first treatment re-spray after 5-7 days, since not all drugs have a detrimental effect on eggs pest. To consolidate the effect, you can process the plants a third time in another week.

Since the spider mite is extremely tenacious, besides, it easily gets used to chemicals and develops resistance, experienced vegetable growers advise against using the same preparation more than twice.

Biological

Bioacaricides, which contain live colonies of fungi that adversely affect arachnids, are considered much less toxic. However, they act exclusively on adult ticks, without affecting their eggs and larvae. Use such funds will have several times a season. With a strong infection of greenhouse vegetables, these preparations may be ineffective.

Among acaricides of biological origin, the most popular are:

• Fitoverm. The working solution is prepared from 1 liter of water and 8-10 ml of the drug (consumption per 10 m² - 1 l). 2 days after processing, the collected fruits can be eaten. Sprayed several times with an interval of 7-10 days.
• Bitoxibacillin. In a bucket of water, 100 ml of the product is diluted. Sprayed plants, spending from 1 to 3 liters per m². After 15 days, the procedure is repeated. The waiting period after spraying is 7 days.
• Agravertine. The contents of one or several ampoules are dissolved in a liter of water (depending on the degree of infection), treated with an interval of 7 days from 2 to 4 times. Harvesting is acceptable after 48 hours.

The action of biological acaricides is maximum at high ambient temperatures (+ 18... + 32 ° C). When cooling down to + 13... + 15 ° C, these funds become almost useless.

Agrotechnical methods

To corrode a spider mite from a greenhouse is quite possible, if certain rules of agricultural technology are observed. Phased plan:

1. In autumn, it is necessary to remove all plant debris from the greenhouse, replace or disinfect the soil, since it is there that pests winter.
   

   It is better to replace the soil in the greenhouse completely or, in extreme cases, dig it deep

2. Carry out a general cleaning. Rinse and disinfect all structures.
3. Fumigate with a sulphurous smoke bomb.
4. Throw in snow.
5. To carry out appropriate preparatory measures in the spring (if they were not fully made in the autumn).
6. After planting, try to maintain the desired microclimate (temperature and humidity). Spray with water.
7. Tear out weeds regularly and loosen the soil.
8. At the first sign of infection, immediately remove and destroy all affected parts of the plants.
9. Wipe the foliage with soapy water to rinse the cobwebs. Use herbal decoctions and other folk methods.
10. First use gentle biological agents.
11. In the absence of a visible effect, proceed with a more potent chemistry.

Unconventional method of combating spider mites

Unusual and quite specific, but absolutely harmless to pets and humans the way to get rid of harmful arachnids is to use their natural enemies - entomophages. These include predatory ticks: amblyseius, metaseyulus, phytoseyulus, which feed on adult spider mites, immature individuals and eggs.

You can purchase paper boxes with useful helpers at any gardening store. After opening the package suspended on the affected plant, predators creep out to freedom on their own and begin the hunt for pests.

Folk ways

If the number of pests is still small, then folk remedies can help:

• Alcohol. They wipe all the leaves. Repeat after a few days.
• Laundry soap. They wipe the plants with a sponge with soapy water or simply spray them, not forgetting to water the ground.
• Infusion of dandelion. In 10 l of warm water, 0.2-0.4 crushed rhizomes or 0.5 kg of green leaves are soaked for 3-4 hours. Filter and use fresh.
• The infusion is bleached. The dried plant (1 kg) is infused for 12 hours in a bucket of water.
• Tobacco decoction. Dry raw materials (0.4 kg) are poured into 10 liters of water, kept for a day, then boiled for 2 hours. You can just pollinate plants with shag.
• Potato tops. A bucket of water is poured into 1.5 finely chopped tops, after 3-4 hours you can use it.
• Tomato Tops. Poured 10 liters of water, 0.4 kg of chopped tomato greens are boiled for half an hour.
• Hogweed infusion. 1 kg of dried plant parts (stems, leaves, roots) are insisted for 5-6 hours in 10 liters of water.

For better fixation of treatment solutions on leaves, it is recommended to add liquid soap (30–40 g per 2 l) or laundry soap that has been grated.

Spraying with folk remedies must be repeated every 4–5 days until the pests are completely exterminated.

Useful tips from experienced gardeners

Too much depends on the type of sprayer, as Actellik is good in its own way, but it is contact, and it is not easy to provide processing of the entire area of ​​the sheets both from above and below. An urgent need to water the plants to ensure active sap flow. Apply the drug BI-58 New 10-15 ml per 10 l of water. It has pronounced systemic properties, that is, if the entire area of ​​the sheets is not processed, then the tick biting into the sheet will die anyway, because the drug moves with juice.

.Very much praised for the last season Vertimek. The active substance of the drug VERTIMEK, CE for the protection of flower crops of protected ground and cucumbers of protected ground from ticks and thrips. - abamectin - refers to the chemical group of avermectins, waste products of the soil fungus Stereptomyces avermitilis. Abamectin within several hours after drying of the working solution on the treated surface penetrates into the tissues of the plant. On the surface of the sheet, it practically does not remain, and this feature is successfully used in integrated plant protection systems - in particular, when releasing entomophages. Since no residues remain on the surface of the plants, beneficial insects have no contact with the active substance VERTIMEK, CE, while leaf-eating, mining and sucking harmful organisms absorb abamectin when eating.

I do not struggle with a tick on them (well, except for the standard one, do not thicken, remove diseased leaves), so I noticed that there are varieties more or less resistant to ticks. The most persistent, according to my observations, Anyuta F1, I wrote about him. They also become infected, but somehow not critical. Grow and bear fruit until frost.

There are two points. First: the more drugs you use in the greenhouse, the more pests. And no matter what classes and types of insecticides. The relationship is simple - using insecticides, you kill primarily entomophages. They are active and they get everything at once. Pests get much less, therefore they recover much faster, and in the absence of predators - in large numbers. And the second point: the infection comes from outside the greenhouse. It is there that the foci of infection are located. And the main ones are buildings, folded "household goods" of the owners, just weed, compost heaps and other rubbish. And the more of this "good" - the higher the risk of the existence and development of foci of infection. This applies to pests and diseases. Using only insecticides, not taking into account other factors - only poisoning of the soil and fruits can be achieved. This does NOT lead to a reduced risk of infection. Mankind ate more than one dog. And do not think that everyone did not succeed, but I will succeed. Will not work. To poison yourself is easy, but a new infection will NOT be avoided. The problem must be solved in a complex. And primarily soil improvement. Both inside the greenhouse and outside. Everything else is in the form of an ambulance.

Unfortunately, there is no panacea for this sinter.. It always goes along with high temperatures, therefore such a measure is very effective, but during the beginning of the growing season.. When watering, carefully spill paths, wooden and metal parts of the greenhouse, that is, create a moist environment... at the first signs of this urgently spray the parasite on both sides of the foliage with Fitoverm and Biotlin (a new biological product) a couple of times with an interval of 4-5 days, heavily infected leaves to destroy. The most important thing is to be in time in time, otherwise the plants will die before your eyes within three to four days... And in as a deninfection after harvesting the plants in the greenhouse, you need to burn the sulfur block and treat the soil with a solution of copper vitriol.

It is necessary to combat the spider mite by systematically spraying vegetable crops with clean water (especially in hot weather). In addition, it is necessary to constantly destroy weeds, spray the plants with infusion of onion or garlic husk (200 g of husk per 10 l of water), pollination with ground sulfur (300 g of sulfur per 100 square meters. meters), and in autumn it is imperative to dig the site deeply, removing all plant debris from the soil. Of the chemicals used to combat spider mites, Fitoverm (4 ml per 5 l of water) and Karbofos (50 g per 10 l of water) can be used. These drugs are sprayed in the morning or in the evening, and during treatment it is necessary to ensure that the inside of the leaves is moistened properly.

Video: fighting a spider mite

The spider mite is tenacious; it can sometimes be difficult to get rid of it. The effectiveness of the measures directly depends on the speed of response, the competent selection of means of control and their correct application. In some cases, you can get by with basic preventive measures and observing the rules of agricultural technology.