Installing a plastic window with your own hands

Still not so long ago metal-plastic windows were considered as certain "elite" element of the house or apartment, accessible very few well-founded to owners .Today the situation has changed - these window systems have become less expensive and have become widely used by by almost all average families. They significantly benefit from the wooden and and noise insulation, and degrees, which makes the a reliable obstruction to drafts and street dust. Yes, and just outwardly, such windows are very pretty and easily discharged into any design of the house and its premises.

In a word, in the construction of new housing, and when carrying out repairs, the question almost always resolves in favor of installing just such windows. Companies, large and small, engaged in their assembly at present - a great many in almost all regions of the country. Large firms in the price of their windows immediately lay and their installation - for large volumes of production, they can afford it. But it is often possible to meet and small private enterprises that require a separate fee for installation - and this is currently 2.5 ÷

3.0 thousand rubles. It is clear that immediately there is a thought - is it so difficult to install a plastic window with your own hands? Is it possible to save on this by carrying out an independent installation?

It turns out that this is quite feasible. The main - is good at understanding the technology of the process and immediately prepare the necessary consumables. And, of course, when installing to show increased accuracy, strictly follow the installation instructions.

The main stages of installing a plastic window

The installation of the metal-plastic window should be carried out in the with a clear followed byeffectiveness. This technology has already withstood the "test of time", and it would be inappropriate to make its discretion in the to in its .

• First of all, the necessary measurements are made, an order is made for the window structure.
• After the window is manufactured and delivered, the old frames are dismantled, the is cleared for the opening, and its correction is made if necessary.
• The next step is to prepare a new window for installation. It can vary - depending on the selected window installation method, about than will be described below.
• The most important step is the correct installation of the window in the opening, its alignment vertically and horizontally, leaving the required gaps, and fixing to the walls.
• Further, the comes sealing joints between the frame and opening , providing hydro and vapor barrier.
• The next step is to install the outflow from the outside and the window sill indoors.
• The final adjustment of the window mechanisms is carried out, the necessary fittings are installed.
• When the room is to be finished - window slopes are installed.

Now about the main stages - with all the details.

Two main ways to fasten plastic windows

Before you start on your own, you need to sort out a little in theory.

• Firstly, , you can not accept the installation of a window to someone who does not accurately represent its device. First, look at the window outside:

1 - Window frame, assembled from the PVC profile.

2 - The opening window shutter, also made from a special profile. Can open in several planes, for example, be swing-and-tilt. Suspended to the frame by means of special fittings, which allow precise adjustment of the leaf position.

3 - The central rack is an impost that divides the total plane of the entire by two or more parts onto the .The material of manufacture is the same frame profile.

4 - Can be installed in the opening flap or directly in the frame profile ( for the "blind" part of the window) double glazing. Can be single-chamber ( two glasses) or two-chamber( 3 glasses).

5 - Fittings. In this case shows the handle of the opening flap.

6 - PVC window sill, which is usually ordered, purchased and installed simultaneously with the window itself.

Now let's look at the same window in a section( for convenience, the numbering is applied, that is, if the positions coincide with the upper figure, their numbers are saved):

section - The frame profile( item 1) has several air chambers( usually from3 to 5 ÷ 6) - the more of them, the higher the thermal insulation properties of the window system. Profiles are counted along a horizontal line in the direction from street to room. In the this case in the figure is an three-chamber profile.

- Inside the profile is a reinforcing metal profile( item 7).This element nt pr idae t t required rigidity frame construction.

- The wing profile( pos.2) is approximately the same. The number of chambers is usually the same as that on the frame, reinforcing metal element 8 is also inside

- The glass unit in the frame or in the window sash is held by glazing beads( key 9).

- The diagram further shows the device of the window slope from the PVC panel. Pos .10 - start profile, poses .11 - PVC panel, pos. .12-source, also made of PVC.

Certainly, the windows of different manufacturers can have their own characteristics, differ in cross-sectional shape and reinforcement, the number of air chambers, the design of the double-glazed windows, but the model remains the same.

More details on how how the window of PVC is arranged and how to approach the choice of its optimal model is described in the special publication of our portal.

• Secondly , it is necessary to determine the method of fastening the window in the opening of the .In practice, two basic approaches are used: mounting directly through the frame with dowels or anchor fasteners, or mounting with pre-fastened to the bracket( anchor plate).

opening A. In the first case( in the figure on the left) the frame is drilled through, a hole is made in the wall in a coaxial hole. Fixing element nt all is thrown through the frame, tightened, and its head will then be hidden by an installed double-glazed window or covered door.

Advantages of this method:

• The window in the opening of the opening is set much more accurately.
• The strength of the entire window system is higher, so this approach is the only possible with large windows( 2000 and more mm on either side) or where high external loads are expected( especially windy places, high floors and .)

Disadvantages:

• The window requires mandatory disassembly - removal of glazing beads and double-glazed windows, opening flaps. For an inexperienced master , this is an extra problem for , as it is easy to scratch or even bend when dismantling the glazing beads, and is removed from a glass pack especially carefully. For the need for disassembly, this method is often called an installation with a window unpacking.
• Violation of the integrity of the profile( drill through it) reduces its thermal insulation properties, and in certain conditions can provoke fogging glasses .
• This installation takes longer.

B. Installation on anchor plates or other brackets reinforced on the end part of a PVC window frame. After the window is placed in the desired position in the opening of the , these platinum are fastened by dowels or anchors to the wall( schematically in the upper figure is shown on the right). The winder and further finishing of the slopes will hide them from view.

Advantages:

• This installation is simpler and faster, especially if you use standard anchor plates that fit tightly into the grooves intended for them on the end of the profile.

• . The integrity of the profile is not violated - there is no need to drill through it.
• There is no compulsory need to dismantle the - window, it can be installed in an assembled state.(Because of this, this method is sometimes referred to as "unpacking").However, this advantage of can be called very conditional, for several reasons. First, most windows are delivered from the manufacturer in disassembled form. Secondly, to assemble the window assembly, with installed double-glazed windows, especially on a high floor - is very difficult and dangerous because of its large mass. And thirdly, the filling of the remaining slots from the outside, providing external waterproofing and installing the ebb is still more convenient to carry out with completely removed double-glazed windows.

, in principle, one, which has already been mentioned - on the strength of the installation, because of the resistance of a large window to the weight and wind loads, this method is much worse than the .

Measuring the

Immediately it is appropriate to make one very important observation. To the owners of the apartment, , one way or another, will have to contact the company that manufactures windows to make an order. The situation will be optimal when comes from the manufacturer's representative and will conduct all necessary measurements on its own .First, the specialist in this business has much more experience, and the probability of error will be minimal. Gauges, as a rule, are familiar with all typical buildings, and it is much easier for them to understand the nuances of the window .And secondly, if it suddenly happens that the window for some reason suddenly does not correspond aperture , then all the responsibility will fall on the company's employees, and the customer will be entitled to require the manufacture of the correct window structure.

Very often in serious companies have frozen aperture is included in the cost of the order and is not paid additionally, so do not fool yourself.

If nevertheless it is decided to conduct the measurements yourself, you should first understand the configuration of the window .

• In panel high-rise buildings, openings with a quarter - a monolithic rim with on both sides and above the opening, forming such image in the way are seen in the paneled apartment buildings ( in the figure on the left).
• In brick houses, usually a quarter is not - aperture is formed by straight planes perpendicular to the wall( in the figure - on the right).

Measurements of different openings have their own characteristics.

Window window measurement with the quarter

When measuring the window with the quarter , it is taken into account that , that from both vertical sides and from above the window frame should find a quarter for 15 ÷ 25 mm, while still there should be a gap forfilling it with foam.

window Means the measurement is as follows:

• Outside in several places( top, center, bottom) strictly horizontally measured distance A between opposite slopes. Considering that the window should enter on them on 15 ÷ 25 mm, 30 ÷ 50 mm is added to the distance obtained. So preliminary I receive t t required width of a window.

Now measurements are taken inside. The width of the opening is defined from in to its widest point, at the wall level( also , horizontally in several places - for control).Not to be confused with the value in , which shows the distance between the slopes at the frame itself - this figure in given case has no defining value.

Now you can compare the pre-width of the required window with the width of the opening. On each side, at least 20 mm should remain on the sides for sealing with foam. It is possible to adjust the ordered width, because there is defined range of approach ok on the quarter.

• Now about the height of the window. The approach of the frame to the upper quarter remains the same. The lower quarter, , as a rule, in the openings does not happen, because there are installed a window sill and an external tide. For their installation, it is necessary to use the installation profile in addition to the window frame. More often manufacturers mount it still in the course of performance of the order, but to check never hinders.

substitution profile. So, how to correctly measure and calculate the height of the window:

window Measurements are taken from the outside - from the upper quarter to the point where the inclined outburst( if any) touches the outer corner of the opening( F ).

To this value is added 15 ÷ 25 mm - this is the approach of the frame to the upper quarter. Now you need to take away 30 mm - this is the height of the installation profile. Under it also there must be a gap for sealing - from 5 to 20 mm. They are also subtracted from the value obtained. As a result, the required window height should be obtained.

For the control, measurements are made inside - from the top of the point of the opening to the window sill( E ), and then we must try to measure the distance from the top of the surface of the window sill to the "bare" of the opening( sometimes has the for I remove the windowsill altogether , since it all will also soon change).The height of the opening allows checking the correctness of the calculation - the window height + substitution profile + not less 20 mm top and 5 ÷ 20 mm bottom for sealing with foam.

Note - if the installation of the substitution profile is not planned( which in itself is already a serious ), then the gap between the frame and the gap is left at the bottom by the of at least 40 mm.

Immediately you can make measurements for the order of the windowsill, low tide and slopes.

• The length of the ebb is the distance between the quarters( A ) plus 50 mm. Width - distance from window to edge of opening plus 20 ÷ 30 mm.

• The length of the window sill is the maximum width of the opening( with ) plus 50 mm. The width is usually standardized and the most appropriate option for the particular conditions is chosen, with taking into account the distance from the frame to the angle between the opening and the inner wall plus the desired outward projection of the window sill( usually still 30 ÷ 50 mm).

Measurement of direct , without quarter .

With simple straight opening measurements and calculations will be much easier.

The is measured vertically and horizontally at several points, in the widest places( in the diagram - and ).

• The width of the window thus will be equal to this distance minus the two values ​​of the assembly gap with the .Its , as before, we take for 20 mm, that is as a result we subtract 40 mm.
• The height of the window is determined by the height difference of the opening, the mounting clearance from above( 20 mm) and the thickness of the installation profile( 30 mm) and 10 mm clearance below it. If the profile is not set, then the mounting clearance from below is 40 mm. Altogether, from the total height of the , the opening is subtracted by 60 mm.

In , the remaining measurements of remain the same as for the window with a quarter.

If the measurements are done, you can send an order. But still once is not superfluous will repeat - it's better to call home controller on the house so that he takes into account all possible nuances, for example, a small skew of opening caused by shrinkage of the building.

Preparation of for and

consumables

While the window will be made, it makes sense to do preparation for further work. It is necessary to prepare a tool and supplies for installation.

Tools and materials needed:

	Rotary hammer with a set of drill bits( 6, 8 and 10 mm) and chopper chop		Screwdriver with bit set
	Drill bit 10.2 mm for metal		Screwdriver set
	Roulette		Construction level, length more than 300 mm
	Construction knife		Pencil for marking
	Rubber hammer or special plastic for PVC windows		Spatula, width 50 ÷ 60 mm
	Hacksaw for cutting PVC		Hacksaw for wood
	Anchoring plates - if applied without fasteningwax "or combined		Nailing dowel nails, Ø6 mm - for anchor plates or Ø10 mm - for fastening through the frame.
	Metal frame dowels( anchors) Ø 10 mm		Screws 4 × 16 and 4 × 25
	Pre-compressed self-expanding sealing tape		Thermal vapor barrier tape PPE, best of all - foamed
	Steam diffusion diffusion tape		Foam mounting and gun for itsApplication
	Silicone sealant - should be enough for a small tube.		Wedges for window mounting. You can use specialized plastic or wood.

The table requires an explanation:

I. First of all , deal with the number of points to replicas. It depends on the size and design of the window. There are certain norms that provide with a reliable fixing of the window system. Below is a diagram of an approximate placement of the point to the replenishment. Presented are the three most common variants - the window with the impost, the completely dull window and the balcony block.

In all three cases, appears as follows: Basic values, A , In and With .

A is the distance from the inner corner of the window frame to the point to the of the replication. Be sure to put two points on the corner, and on the vertical, and on the horizontal. The size A is taken to be between 150 and 180 mm.

In - , the maximum distance between adjacent points on one side of the frame. It is assumed to be equal:

- for "white" PVC windows - no more than 700 mm.

- for windows made of their colored PVC profiles - 600 mm.

With - , the distance from the impost to the fixing point to the larger side of the leaf( if the two wide doors are the same, it is better to install the hardware with the on both sides of the ).The value of this distance is from 120 to 180 mm.

Having such a diagram before your eyes and knowing the linear dimensions of the ordered window, it is easy to calculate the required amount of fasteners. It is advisable even to sketch out the layout of the point to the replica - this will be a good help in carrying out the work.

II. What type of fastening elements will be needed? This depends on the wall material and how the window is fastened to the opening.

If the method of fastening is "unpacked", that is, through the frame, then metal, frame anchors( anchors) or dowels-nails with a diameter of 10 mm are taken. In this case, it is advisable to use anchors on concrete, brick( solid or hollow brick), expanded clay concrete, foam concrete walls or built of natural natural stone. The dowel nails are preferred on walls made of materials that do not differ in high compressive strength, for example, from light concretes or other porous materials. They will also fit into hollow blocks and bricks.

In the case where the will use an anchor plate installation, there will be enough point fixing two dowel nails with a diameter of 6 or 8 mm for each .In addition, you will need the plates themselves - and get them better in the same organization that makes the window - special hooks on the plate should match the PVC profile accurately. For fixing the plate, in addition, you will need self-drilling screws with drilling bit 4 × 25 mm - one piece per mounting point.

The length of the basic of the fastening elements should be such that, with taking into account the of the frame thickness and the width of the clearance, a minimum penetration into the wall thickness is ensured. For different wall materials it has its own value - see table:

Wall bearing material	Required minimum depth, mm
Concrete	40
Solid brick	40
Slotted bricks	60
Blocks made of porous natural stone	50
Lightweight concrete	60

Small self-drilling screws 4 × 16 may be needed for fasteningand auxiliary elements for the installation of a window sill. They are also needed if it is supposed to install a mosquito net from the outside of the window - plastic brackets are attached to the profile of the frame.

III. Next, we pass to sealing and waterproofing materials.

• Tape PSUL is purchased with calculation , so that it is enough for the entire perimeter of the window. It is installed with calculation to seal the gap between the window and the adjacent quarter - on the sides and on top. And from the bottom it will be fixed when installing the external outflow. If the window opening - without quarters, then, accordingly, the tape will need less.
• Tape PPE with foil - it will be necessary to completely isolate the perimeter of the window from the inside.
• vapor-permeable diffuse membrane tape - will cover the underside of the window from the outside with the opening of the with a quarter, and it is desirable to glue the of its around the perimeter if the opening is straight, without a quarter of the .
• Foam mounting: the best option is to buy cylinders with "pro" - foam, for which you will need a special gun. It does not gives the an "inadequate" extension, like the , the cheap , implemented in spray guns, and will not have a deforming effect on the frame racks. In addition, it is much better, more durable, its in the right places - much easier, without excessive overrun.
• Finally, silicone sealant. It may be needed to seal narrow slots between the frame and the sill or slopes. With the correct installation of the slots, if there are, then very small, that is, a large amount of sealant is not required.

And finally, prudent host will acquire film , which will close the furniture, walls, floor in the room where the installation of the window - the work is first to be quite dusty.

Removing the old

window After the window is manufactured and delivered to the work site, you can move on. It is clear that before installing a new PVC window, it is necessary to dismantle the old one and release the opening of the .This work is quite dirty and is laborious , but without it can not do. The approximate sequence of actions is in the table below:

Thumbnail	Description of the operations performed
	First of all, the largest leaflets are removed. For example, if the balcony block is dismantled, then the door is removed. There is an important nuance - you can remove the sashes or doors with the glasses only if the structure has retained its stiffness. If the window "plays" or is strongly rotten, then for reasons of elementary security, the glasses are previously removed and taken out.
	All dismantled parts are recommended to be removed immediately from the work area - there is a great risk of accidentally breaking the old window glass and getting injured.
	If the window side has a window, then first remove it. If you failed to unscrew the old fastener loops( and often it turns out), then you will have to make an effort - usually this is enough to make the ventilator removed.
	Windows are usually suspended on hinges, with which they can be removed simply by lifting the bottom of the mount.
	All windows and windows have been removed - you can proceed to the dismantling of the frame.
	First, the central stand is removed - an impost. To make this easier, imports are sawed closer to the bottom of the frame. To saw it is necessary a hacksaw - on some videoclips masters brave that use for this purpose "bulgarku".Repeat for them - in no case should not - this is extremely dangerous!
	The re-sawed impost itself becomes a lever, which will not be particularly difficult to break out of the frame.
	Next, the lower jumper of the frame is removed. Again, for the convenience of dismantling it is advisable to saw, using for this jigsaw.
	Using a mount or nail driver as a lever, one of the halves is pulled up.
	If there is resistance in the place of its mounting with a vertical support, then you can help yourself with mounting the
	After that, the second half is also broken out in a similar way.
	After removal of the lower jumper, the windowsill is dismantled. It can be hit with a hammer from the side of the street.
	The window sill is removed and exposures the lower plane of the window opening.
	Go to the vertical stand. Often, it is densely pierced from above and below. Then it is better to push it slightly away from the wall, and also saw with a jig saw.
	The second half of the rack is no longer a problem to pull out the
	. The upper part of the frame, on the one hand, does not rely on anything, and should leave without any problems.
	The last vertical frame of the frame, too, should not resist if it is properly tucked in by mounting. Sometimes, in order to get to the gap between the pillars of the frame and the wall, the puncher must be punctured with plastered slopes.
	The last step is cleaning the freed window aperture from the old seal, construction debris, etc.cleaning is carried out very carefully, so that the opening before the installation of the window remains completely clean. It makes sense to use hard brushes and a vacuum cleaner. All garbage is loaded in bags and immediately removed from the work area.

Sometimes it is necessary to resort to correction of opening - removal of defects of concrete casting, solution residues and , .It is easier to perform this with a perforator, setting a chisel on it. It is also advisable to continue at the site of the future installation of the window sill, to continue the wall on both sides with small grooves, a width and depth of about 50 mm and a height of about 30.

. After cleaning the dust, we should not be too lazy and walk around the opening a layer of a deep penetration primer - this will strengthen the surface in with a certain grade, and improve the adhesion to the mounting foam.

Preparing a new window for mounting

A. If you plan to install the window "with unpacking", then it is advisable to still when registering, ordering that it must be delivered in disassembled form( and most often it happens).If not, the will have to dismantle the itself.

• First, the glazing beads are removed from the blind leaf. They can be pulled with the blunt side of the knife or the spatula, starting from the center. Then, when the first lumen appeared, it is expanded by a neat moving of the tool in one and the other direction.

. The gripper must go out of gear in the groove and separate in the lock part. Then it remains to turn the fingers under it and gently separate it along the entire length. It is advisable to take the filed glazing off - so that the does not have confusion when re-installing. But it's better to make a mark with a pencil from the wrong side - from the PVC surface, the pencil mark is very painfully rubbed off.

• The glass unit is removed. The most convenient way is to perform a special sucker, but if does not have its , then can do and so. Caution - the glass unit is quite heavy and can have sharp edges - it is better to work with gloves.

Please note that plastic insets can be placed below the glass unit. Their position will need to be noted in some way, so that when they are mounted they stand in the same place.

Video: how to remove glass from PVC windows

• It is not necessary to get a double-glazed window from the opening sash - it is enough to remove the sash itself. It is not difficult to do this. To begin with, the leaf handle is moved to the "closed" position - it looks down. From both hinges, from the top and bottom, the decorative case is removed - it should easily poddeysya thin screwdriver .Then go to the upper loop. It has an axial vertical pin, slightly protruding outward. It is planted down, and then either gently knocked out using a thin screwdriver ( the diameter of its should be smaller than the pin diameter) , or is pulled by pliers.

After this, the leaf handle is moved to the "open" position. The door is pivoted on top of itself, and then it is lifted by forward movement from the bottom axis. The removed leaf, just like the dismantled double-glazed windows, is temporarily removed from the work area, so as to not accidentally damage it during further operations.

Video: how to remove the sash of the PVC window

• The next step in the preparation is drilling holes for fixing the window in the opening of the .To this end, according to the previously constructed layout of the point to the , the declarations are scheduled and the holes of the are jagged slightly and slightly. In the drill chuck, perforator( switched for unstressed action) or screwdriver is inserted drill for metal Ø 10.2 mm.

Drilling is best done from the outside of the frame. In this case, the drill, quickly passing through the PVC layer, immediately, without distortion, rests against the reinforcement profile. After the as it is passed, there remains one insignificant obstacle in the form of an internal PVC surface of the frame. If you change the direction of hole drilling, it is much more difficult to achieve its perpendicularity and evenness edges .

• The presence of a wildcard profile is checked. It is attached from below by a conventional lock joint, entering the grooves of the frame part. If it is not for some reason, it is advisable to purchase and install it. Most often, it does not require additional fastening. Experienced masters advise in advance, approximately a day before the installation of the window, fill the cavity of this profile with mounting foam so that it does not become a "weak link" in the thermal insulation of the entire window system.

• The protective coating is removed from the outside of the frame. If this is not done immediately, then to separate the film , which has been in the sun for a bit, will be very difficult. Yes, and in general - remove the outside of the protective coating after installing the window will be difficult. On the inside, you can remove this coating later.

If there is a mosquito net on the window, now is the time to mount the brackets for .They are installed on 2 × 16 mm self-tapping screws, screwed to the PVC profile.

Their placement should be such that so that the does not interfere with pressing the window to the upper quarter of the of the opening and the so that the provides the with a robust grid lock and the installation and removal of the of its by up against the stop in the upper brackets.

• The last preparatory step in the for this case is the pasting of the PSUL tape on the to the three sides of the window, in those sections where the frame will be pressed against the quarter of the opening.

frame Normally PSUL is placed with such calculation of so that between its internal, facing to the center of the window side and the edge of the quarter there was a gap of about 3 ÷ 5 mm.

B. If you plan to install an on the anchor plates, the preparation process will have its own characteristics.

- Firstly, the glazing is very fashionable and does not hold a blind leaf - it will be enough to remove the opening ones. True, this has already been said, the installation will become somewhat more complicated due to the large mass of the window.

- Secondly, at the planned fastening points, anchor plates are installed. They have gear or even hooks, which should ideally coincide with the grooves on the outer part of the frame profile. It is enough to apply a moderate effort, for example, by hammering with a mounting hammer - and they will stand in place.

The center is provided with a hole through which they are fixed to the profile with a 4 × 25 mm screwdriver - after passing through the reinforcing metal profile, the reliably holds the in place. Plates are attached perpendicular to the frame, and then bend them so that they fit into the window opening.

On the itself, the opening, on its slopes, in places where the plates will be placed, can be made in advance with a perforator. The goal is to reach the wall material, having beaten the unreliable plaster layer( if any) , and makes it easier for to further work on finishing the slopes - the plates will not interfere with this. However, such an operation, especially when installing the window in the "bare" opening, is not mandatory - all this can then be closed by finishing.

The remaining actions of on are not different from those about to of mentioned above.

Installation and fastening of the window in the opening

Very carefully, with all safety precautions and, possible, additional insurance against tipping the frame outside, it is exposed in the window opening .If the has an opening with quarters, then the frame must be snugly attached to them through the pasted PSUL.

opening The next most important task is to precisely position the frame in vertical and horizontal planes, and the building tool becomes the main tool. You can give one good advice - temporarily fix the window roughly centered on the top of the anchor plate - the degree of freedom is preserved, and it will be much easier to work .

The level is set on the inner plane of the lower frame jumper - that's why the tool for is different from the tool other than 300 mm. The absence of a vertical blockage of the frame is checked with applying the level from the side of the room to the impost and to the side posts.

Wooden or plastic wedges are used to provide the necessary gaps on all sides and the correct position of the frame.

Very comfortable plastic adapters are definitely preferable, and if you can buy them, this will be an ideal option. They "work in pairs", catching one another by means of small teeth. By moving their one relative to another , you can set the desired altitude with accuracy up to lei millimeter.

You can, of course, do with wooden wedges or lining, but often this requires cutting, replacing, installing several pieces of "pyramid" and , the .

Wedges must prop the window so that the can be moved to its mount in the opening of the .

When installing fasteners using the "unpacked" method, experienced masters often practice the hole in the wall directly through the already drilled channels in the frame profile. This is entirely acceptable, but only if the installer is 100% sure of both the wall, the power of the tool, and the hardness of the of his hand. It happens that the drill bit is stumbling on an obstacle, the beating starts, which, if not kept, can turn a neat hole in the BX pr officer.

If there are any doubts about this account, , it's better to accurately map the hole centers, then to remove the frame, and then start drilling. However, with will have to re-open the window and wedge its , but with drilled holes it will already be easy to do.

The anchor is inserted into the hole directly through the frame, pushed with a hammer until completely immersed, and then twisted, but without "fanatical" force, so that the head does not deform the PVC profile of the . If dowel nails are used, the plastic part is first inserted, and then the nail spacer is gently hammered.

The fixing heads are decorated with special plugs, for fidelity lightly having greased them from below with a drop of silicone sealant.

When installing the app on anchor plates, the process is still easier. They finally attached the desired bend, so that they fit snugly to the surface of the window .Directly through their holes are drilled holes in the wall Ø 6 mm , in which are installed and clogged dowel-nails .

"unpacked" window The standards define two fastening elements per plate, although , judging by the numerous photos on the Internet, many masters are limited to one. Probably, nevertheless with two - it is more reliable , and they are not at all expensive. However, sometimes the steepness of the plate's bending simply does not allow the installation of two dowels.

Sealing the clearances of the

After the window is securely fastened to the , you can proceed to seal the gaps between it and the opening, installing the window sill and low tide.

Important note - in the event that the installer decided to use an inexpensive "household" foam for saving( absolutely unjustified ), it is necessary to first assemble the window - the installation of doors and double-glazed windows. The fact is that such a foam has a very significant expansion effort, capable of even leading to the light deformation - the deflection inside the frame profile. And even a slight curvature may entail difficulties with the installation of the double-glazed window or with the closing of the casement, which means that the window needs to be given hardness before the with the .

Filling openings with a qualitative "professional" foam of such consequences not will entail .Using a pistol with a long and easy-to-use mouthpiece, the carries the fill from the bottom-up .In no case should there be internal cavities - the foam should lie evenly and tightly. The residual extension of the on the is insignificant, which allows economically controlling the of its flow. Particular attention is given to narrow cavities, for example, under the production profile.

. While the window is in disassembled state, nothing prevents from checking the filling of openings of with foam and outside, if necessary, introducing certain corrections. This is especially important if the has no quarters.

If the width of the gap between the frame and the gap of the is more than 20 mm, then the is probably , which must be filled with foam in two steps, with a pause between them in 2 ÷ 3 hours. The quality of filling from this will only benefit.

Mounting polyurethane foam is an excellent insulation, but very vulnerable. Its needs to protect and from of sunlight, and from excessive humidity. This should be done immediately after it completely freezes( about a day), and the surplus will be cut off.

If has no quarters, then do not tighten the device with external slopes, which must completely hide the frozen foam layer from direct exposure to ultraviolet rays. Solutions here can be different, for example, plastering or panel closing.

But in any case it is recommended to cover the foam from the outside with a diffuse membrane first - it is necessary to ensure the free release of water vapors into the atmosphere, while avoiding moisture penetration from the outside. Moisture, if it accumulates in the thickness of the insulation, when freezing and expansion is capable of destructive effects.

And from the inside uses another tape - PPE, which has both hydro- and vapor-insulating qualities. It will not allow from the inside either direct water penetration into the insulation layer, nor penetration of steam. In addition, the foil layer, facing towards the room - this still one line reliable thermal insulation.

Installation of window sill

A. The installation of a window sill may be carried out in different ways. So, they are mounted on glue or mounting foam, on special brackets or the same with using self-made fastenings, made, for example, from direct suspensions, which are usually used with galvanized profiles for gypsum board.

Ideally, the sill at its base must enter a special groove for it on the substitute profile. Sometimes the design of the frame itself implies the existence of a special quarter, designed specifically for mating with the plane of the sill. If its is not present, then the panel can be palm off under the frame profile, wedged from below for a tight abutment to it.

To make it easier to understand, an approximate diagram of the correct installation of the window sill and low tide is given. Pay attention to the location of film membranes .

Consider the option of installing a sill on the mounting foam, as one from most common .

• Under the sill panel there are wedges( again - better adjustable plastic), with a pitch of 400 ÷ 500 mm. The panel itself is cut to the exact size, often - with the taking into account the of a small wall penetration on both sides. Cut the window sill with a hacksaw with a small tooth.
• Then, adjusting the height of the wedges, it is ensured that the panel, inserted into its intended socket on the frame or staging profile, is occupied exactly in a horizontal position.
• Now the window sill needs to be loaded so that when the foam fills the space below it, it does not move from the set position. The load can be given by installing on the window sill evenly along the entire length, for example, of the tank with water.

• The space under the under the wedge between the wedges is completely filled with a mounting foam. It will be thermo insulator , and will act as a glue.
• The load can be removed only after the foam has hardened.

• If there is a small gap between the frame and the window sill, it is carefully sealed with a white silicone sealant.

B. The following is the installation of an outflow from the outside. The approximate scheme of displaying the on the drawing.

casting. The mounting location of the casting is already covered by the vapor-permeable membrane, which completely covered the mounting foam. On the plane of the opening, it is recommended to glue the PSUL strip - the located at an angle will rely on the on it , what will create the one barrier against moisture penetration from the street.

The casting itself is fixed to the substitute profile with 4 × 16 screws, in increments of 100 ÷ 150 mm. It can be mounted on the backing, and then there are the wipes wipe the edge with a silicone sealant. But the is still better if its curved edge enters the from below into a special groove of the profile profile - then to be afraid of rainwater penetration not the will have at all.

As , like the sill, low tide it makes sense several to deepen the plane of the wall on both sides, hollowing out grooves for this. They will then be easily plastered with plaster.

Final assembly of the

window When the basic elements installation is completed, you need to bring the window to the fully working state.

• is inserted into the place of double-glazed windows, using those plastic pads ¸ which stood originally. According to the numbering, they are mounted on the place of the shtapiki. This is most conveniently done with a special rubber or plastic hammer. The shtapik must sit exactly along its entire length - straightness, an audible click and no gap will say that clearly took its position.

• The removed sashes are installed in place - how to do it, has already been told and shown above. After installation, the opening and closing mechanism of the door in the is immediately checked for all modes and the density of its is adhered to the frame.
• If necessary, an exact adjustment of the PVC window ( as is done - in a special article of the portal).If there is no need for adjustment, the hinges are closed with decorative covers.

In fact, the installation of the window is finished. The only thing that has not been solved is the issue of mounting slopes - but this is already a topic for a separate review, which is also given attention to the pages of our portal.

In conclusion - detailed video instruction for the installation of metal-plastic windows. Read, watch, evaluate your strengths so that accept solution - is it possible to install a plastic window with your own hands, or does it make sense to seek help from specialists?

Video: manual for self-installation of PVC windows