How to properly cover the roof with metal

The roof of the house can "tell" very much about its owners. This architectural element is probably first striking, creating a predetermined opinion about in all buildings beforehand. It is not surprising that the issue of decorating roofs is always given the highest attention, especially now, when there are a lot of different options.

Very advantageous always looked, and the with from now on are covered at home, covered with a tiled roof - they are distinguished by special accuracy and imposing. But here's the trouble - the real ceramic tile is very expensive, and its styling can not be attributed to cheap or simple in the independent execution of technological processes. That is why a very reasonable solution will be the acquisition for your home of a metal roof, which very reliably imitates a tiled masonry. And if still properly to figure out how to properly cover the roof with metal tiles independently, without the involvement of a team of specialists, then for a very reasonable amount you can get an excellent roof that

will be reliable and, in addition, will become a real home decoration.

Creating such a roof with metal-metal coating can be conditionally divided into several stages:

- the correct selection of material;

- calculation of the required amount of metal and "consumables";

- preparation of the roof structure for roofing;

- flooring metal-metal coating;

- design of complex areas of the roof.

How to choose metal?

It would seem that the question is not acute and complex - choose only the most suitable for the planned design of the building. However, this is not exactly . metal can vary in its configuration, size, type of coverage, degree of protection and , etc. .

Building metal sheet

First of all, you need to get an idea of ​​what kind of layered structure has this roofing material.

• The basis is always metal( most often - steel) sheet( item 1), a thickness of 0.45 to 0.5 mm. It is he who holds the tiled shape, resists to all mechanical loads, determines hardness coating.

Thicker steel sheets lead to unnecessary weighting of the roof structure without any significant operational advantages. But the metal tile with a steel sheet with a thickness of 0.4 mm and is less better than not to acquire - this coating can quickly be jammed poured during installation, or during operation under even not very heavy load.

Expensive models of metal can be made of aluminum or even copper, but due to the high price they do not use special demand.

• To prevent oxidation of the steel sheet, it is coated on both sides with an anti-corrosion layer( item 2).This can be the usual "galvanizing" whether bo more perfect alumo-zinc coating.
• On both sides of the galvanized metal in a high-quality metal tile, the is applied by the so-called passivation layer( item 3) - based on silica or phosphate compounds. This layer virtually eliminates the occurrence of chemical oxidation reactions.
• Further, also on both sides, comes layer of epoxy primer.(Item 4) This gives the additional metal protection and provides the with a robust adhesion to all other decorative and protective layers of the .
• On the back, the sheets have an acrylic or polyester coating( key 5).It, in principle, does not perform the decorative function, and serves only as reliable protective edge.
• On the outside, the decorative polymer coating( item 6) is applied to the sheets, which largely determines both the class and the cost of the metal tile.
• In some types of roofing material, additional layers are also used. For example, can be applied to the layer of basalt crumb( pos.7), giving the coating the appearance closest to the natural. There are models with printed pattern, for this or that natural structure or even with a fantasy pattern. But with the additional decorative design of the metal tile, still uses an external transparent coating( for example, acrylate ), resistant to abrasive stress and to ultraviolet rays( item 8).

Types of external coating

Now - more about the types of exterior coating.

The most inexpensive, and therefore - the most common among the average developers , is a polyester coating. He always has bright, saturated colors, in the richest variety. Suitable for almost all Russian climatic zones. The disadvantage is not too "outstanding" longevity, although 10 - 15 years without loss of external quality tv pr manufacturers, as rules, guarantee.

Introduction to polyester paint formulations of the Teflon component results in a metal mat with a matt polyester coating. Perhaps, in contrast to pure polyester, the is noted as a light surface roughness, on which the traces of mechanical damage( scratches) or areas of paint burning out in the sun will be much less visible. Such metal should last much longer - up to 25 - for 30 years.

surface. The thickest and thickest coating( up to 200 microns thick) is the plastisol .Its main component is conventional polyvinyl chloride( PVC).Such a metal tile has excellent qualities in terms of the mechanical strength of the coating, but here with the temperature range of operation here is worse - plastisol does not like either too low, negative or high, more than 60 degrees of temperature. And the important advantage of such coverage is the possibility of giving the to it with a microrelief structure, simulating the texture of the skin, wood, natural stone and like .

One of the most advanced and reliable coatings is the pural , created on the basis of polyurethane. He has an enviable life, over 30 years, practically full corrosion invulnerability, immunity to ultraviolet rays. The only serious minus the metal with pural coating - high price.

coating. The largest "aristocrat" among the coatings of metal roofing is composite -based polyvinyl difluoride ( up to 80%) and acrylic resins( about 20 % ). Such composition often is designated abbreviation PVDF( PVDF).Such material is not afraid of serious mechanical influences, nor hot direct sunlight ( it is not subject to fading) neither aggressive environment - the optimal choice for regions with high humidity, for example , on the sea coast. PVDF coating always has a fresh appearance, as it is very well self-cleaning under the influence of atmospheric precipitation.

basic operational characteristics of metal coatings are summarized for convenience in the following table:

Specifications coating metal	Polyester	Matte polyester	Plastisol	PVDF	Pural
Ustoychisvost corrosion	Satisfactory	Good	Good	Good	Excellent
Poastichnost coating	Satisfactory	Satisfactory	Good	Good	Good
Ustychivost to ultraviolet rays	Good	Very good	Good	Excellent	Very good
invariability of "freshness" appearance	Satisfactory	Good	Good	Good	Good
Film Thickness( microns)	25	35	100 - 200	28	50
operating temperature -Maximum temperature( ° C)	+120	+120	+60	+120	+120
Operating temperature - minimum( ° C)	-10	-10	+10	-10	-10

The coating of the metal tile may bemonochromem , or may have any pattern formed by « Printeh » technology.

This is also a polyester coating, but with imitation of masonry, shingles, other natural materials. On the one hand, the , of course, looks original, but if you have such a roof at the level of the third and higher floors, then all meaning is lost, because at a great distance such coverage will not look. Therefore, most often this decoration is used for profiled sheeting, used for fences or facade work.

Fast conquers popularity more one kind of decoration metal-metal roof - use of technology "cloudy" .Such a surface is distinguished by fuzzy , blurred forms of applied by color shade, as if the roof is "touched by time" or covered with "noble patina".Literally the name is translated as "cloudy", which, in principle, fully describes this visual effect.

Another one type of coating - "Terra Plegel" , with a pronounced rough outer texture, practically indistinguishable from from natural clay tiles. It looks like this roof is extremely original, but the price of the material is high. In addition, you need to remember two nuances. On such a slope of the roof, dust, mud, foliage and , will accumulate to a greater extent. And the second - if the usual metal tile exerts a specific pressure on the roof truss system of the order of 5 kg / m², the "Terra Plegel" and st sun e 8 kg / m², which will require more reinforced construction.

The most common metal tile models and their linear dimensions

Before calculate the total estimate for the roofing overlap with metal tiles, you must immediately determine with its model. The fact is that different types of this roofing material can have different linear dimensions, overlapping areas of adjacent sheets, profile height, number of waves and , .

The variety of types of metal, even without color registration of its design, is large enough. Consider some of the most popular models:

• " Cascade" - metal tile, which will approach to lovers for clear geometric shapes. The is drawn to the , it will be reminiscent of a large "chocolate bar".Such a profile is most convenient for of large in terms of the size of roof structures that do not abound with small and with complex fragments of .

"Cascade" is considered the most convenient option and in terms of cost-effectiveness of use - its useful area, for account a small overlap, the most significant.

Important note: is a -driven scheme with linear dimensions of the "cascade" - with the length and width of each "tile", wave height and step difference, total and usable leaf width and , ., At allIt is not mandatory for all types of coatings. For different manufacturers, these figures can vary significantly, and as a basis for calculations it will be necessary to take real parameters specific to a particular material selected. This applies to all models of metal tile - the diagrams are given only as an example.

• "The Palm of the Championship" for the of the pusher, together with the "cascade", firmly holds the metal tile " Monterrey " .

is very popular. Its is characterized by rounded, somewhat asymmetrical shapes that look great on any slopes, perfectly conveying the atmosphere of the old classical tiles.

• Metal tile " andalusia " - is a profile with steep symmetrical rounded waves.

It is well suited for buildings made in the style of "southern Europe".Some versions of this model are accompanied by a system of hidden fasteners for mounting without breaking the surface of the coating.

• Model " modern " in many respects repeats the profile of " monterrey " but differs from it more by rectified geometric shapes.

• Very beautiful, volumetric picture roof gives metal tile "banga" with a pronounced high profile.

looks very beautiful

As a drawback, it can be noted that this is one of the most "uneconomical" models according to the sheet width.

• " Joker" - metal tile with smooth symmetrical waves having a pointed upper ridge. Attaches roof to the effect of ct cl. of the assorted house of "Old Europe ".

• And those who wish to give their structure an oriental flavor, we can advise the metal tile " Shanghai " with characteristic strips on the bottom of a large rounded wave.

With , the choice of of metal tiles must also be taken into account that the height of the profile directly affects the rigidity of and the stability of the coating - the higher the wave, the stronger the material. But, on the other hand, the higher the coating profile, the smaller the useful area of ​​the sheet.

This parameter can vary considerably for different manufacturers - from 22 ÷ 25 mm and up to 78 mm. The most popular models are characterized by a height within 40 - 50 mm.

Now - about the length of the sheets. Each model has its own dimensions of one "tile", that is, a longitudinal row. This, is basically , and predetermines the possibility of trimming blanks in a particular linear dimension, because there are certain restrictions on the line of the cut. So, for example, is absolutely inadmissible to carry out a cut straight along a step transition between rows.

Optimally, the line must run along the center of the row. or with some minimum indentation specified for each model( for example, 40 - 50 mm).By the way , for some types of metal tiles, even tables of unacceptable sizes have been developed.- this can be found in the technical documentation.

Accordingly, each model has its own minimum sheet size - it varies from 0.45 to 0.8 meters. The maximum length is limited by the technological features of the manufacturer's equipment and the ability to transport the finished material without the risk of deformation. Usually the maximum length lies in the range of 6( less often - 8) meters. Responsible companies involved in the production and sale of metal tiles, as a rule, include in the list of their services cutting the roofing material to the size of the customer.

Video : several tips for choosing metal tile

How to calculate the required amount of metal tile

One of the most crucial moments in the sequence of flooring activities metal-tiled roofing - the correct calculation of the required amount of material.

The simplest way in this case is to use the services of companies, engaged in the production and sale of metal tiles - they certainly have a special software for each cover model. It will be enough to remove the dimensions of the roof construction very accurately and on this basis the will produce the number of required sheets and the length of each of them with taking into account longitudinal and transverse overlaps , eaves and .

If for some reason this service is not available, you can try to find on the Internet specialized calculator programs, and with their help to conduct online calculation of amount of material. Accuracy in this case, of course, will be greater.

The most difficult option is a standalone calculation of the roofing structure. If the landlord decides to take such a step, means , he must mobilize all his attentiveness and accuracy, mathematical abilities and spatial imagination.

Approach of the required amount of metal tiles from the position of the calculation of the total roof area and of the specified reserve( in percent), as for example , is practiced by on flooring, it does not work. There are a number of reasons for this:

• The tile has a clear spatial orientation, and not always trimming from one place can be used in another, for example, "mirroring" them will not turn.
• Wavy form in the longitudinal and transverse direction considerably narrows the possibility of using the cut fragments without disturbing the general picture of the roof.
• This is also hampered by the need for the minimum longitudinal and transverse overlapping of adjacent sections established by the technology.

First of all, you need to accurately measure all the parameters of the roof. This will not be difficult, for example, on a conventional gable or single-deck roof, but if the rafter system has a hip or tent structure, there are plenty of additional architectural elements - spiers, turrets, etc., then will have to tinker with pretty. Especially since the will be of great importance not only for linear dimensions, but also for the exact angles of the resulting figures.

As a result, each of the skates, each roof plane, obtain its image on paper in plan, in the form of a two-dimensional figure with clearly stamped in dimensions maintained in the defined by the scale.

The calculation of the sheets and their lengths is carried out for each site individually. A geometric forms plots are the most diverse - from rectangles and triangles, to trapezoids or parallelograms with very complex curvilinear edges and additional notches.

• The easiest way, of course, is to calculate the material for a rectangular ramp.

In fact, only the length and width of the section with taking into account the output to the cornice( in the given by the example - B = 50 mm) and the required overlap between the sheets in height( C = 150 mm).In this case, the length of the bottom sheet should be a multiple of the step of the wave ( for example, 350 mm) plus 150 mm on the overlap .The top sheet is cut to the ridge and will be hidden by a ridge overlay.

If the height of the ramp( A ) allows you to cover with one sheet, then this parameter With is simply not taken into account.

And the number of sheets in length is easy to calculate - the length of the section is divided by the useful width of the sheet and rounded to the whole in the larger side. For example, for a six-meter section with a useful width of 1100 mm, we get: 6000 : 1100 = 5.45 sheets of , that is 6 whole sheets.

On a separate piece of paper, you can immediately mark the quantity and size of the metal, which will leave in trimming. It is not excluded that they can be applied on another part of the roof. However, the owner of the house should be prepared for the fact that will take a lot of material out of the waste.

• Triangular areas are more complex - they need to be filled in the scheme in such a way as to minimize waste, but completely cover the whole plane without breaking the picture:

• Very often there are variants of a rectangular slope with a triangular cut:

• On the roofs of an ornate configuration, the can get more complex shapes:

• Usually the work is carried out in such a way that at first on the circuits fill the whole rectangular areas. Then they move on to the remaining, non-overlapped sections - so it will be easier to imagine whether it will be possible and where to use the cut fragment.
• All drawings with calculations must be worked out with with the utmost care and with clarity - they will later become the main assembly manual for the installation of roofing works.
• With the calculation of the of the required material, one must never lose sight of the required by the number of additional elements. So, for sure will require the cornice and end plates, ridge lining, external and internal valleys, abutment strips to the walls, stubs, snow-retaining barriers and other details.

When determining the number of additional elements are usually guided by the need to create a 5% reserve to their linear dimensions.

By the way, many homeowners with inexperience at the initial estimate of the cost of the roof miss the costs of additional elements. Meanwhile, practice shows that up to 30% of the total estimate is spent on these details.

• The next question is the type and number of screws necessary for mounting.

As a rule, metal screws are made of high-quality galvanized steel. Necessarily, there is a press washer with a gasket made of EPDM rubber .Indeed, the brand fasteners on the bonnet are always branded by the manufacturer.

Self-tapping screws are produced in large m m of the powder color shades, which cover the head and the hexagon and the front side of the press washer - there is always the possibility of selecting the fasteners most suitable for the color of the roofing material.

The diagram shows the main technical parameters of the roofing screws:

screws usually uses for the mounting of metal roofs, the following basic dimensions:

• For attaching the sheets to the wooden crate through the bottom of the wave( basic method fixation)× 28 or 4.8 × 35 mm.
• For fastening metal sheets to each other - self-tapping screws 4.8 × 20 mm.
• For attaching additional roof elements, self-tapping screws 4.8 × 50 or 4.8 × 70 mm are required.

The number of screws can be different. Usually, in the installation instructions for a particular type of metal tile, the arrangement of the fastening elements is indicated. Moreover, some manufacturers of roofing materials lay t t required amount of screws in the kit to cover, in the a certain proportion to the area and the number of joints between the sheets. In any case, you need to be prepared for the fact that will go up to 10 screws per square meter space during the assembly process.

The screws have a bit-shaped tip, which, in principle, gives the the opportunity to dispense without pre-drilling the roofing material. However, as practice shows, there are times when it is safer from the point of view fixation strength and from the standpoint of maintaining the integrity of the coating from scratches, pre-drilling in the right place. For this you need to have drill with a diameter of 2.8 to 3 mm( no more, otherwise the reliability is not guaranteed).

Video: choice of screws for mounting metal roofing

Preparation of roof construction for flooring metal roofing

Metal tile - excellent material for roofing, but it is not not set absolutely no thermal insulation function. Therefore, this coating almost always covers the on the roof, on which the previously carried out the measures for its thermal insulation.

It is not necessary to focus too much attention in this article at this stage - the thermal insulation of is very detailed in the relevant publication of our portal. Therefore, the will restrict ourselves only to the with those elements that mate above the truss system.

So, rx sl of the thermal insulation material located between the rafter's legs, the waterproof film is necessarily laid.

It is laid with horizontal strips from below upwards , with overlap not less than 150 m m m between adjacent sheets. On the cornice, initially about 20 - are left to hang. For some films, an important condition is to observe the correctness of the sides arrangement - there is a color marking that should look up.

The film material is fixed to the rafters with rails or with beams , except for a small area near the cornice overhang, where the initial guide rail and the curtain rail must first be installed. The film must come out on top of these elements.

After assembly of the control board, the guide rails are installed. For them boards are used with a width of 100 mm, thickness 25 - 30 mm. The magnitude of the step between the rails depends on the concrete model of the metal tile and is usually indicated in the technical documentation for a specific type of roofing material. For example, the figure shows several variants of the crate of the on the and the most popular models of the metal tile:

metal tile model. In this case, the initial crate - is always higher than the others( assembled from two racks), and the step between and the second guide is reduced by 50 mm.

The solid crate is being installed in the areas where skates are connected, around pipes or dormers, lath is fastened on the snow-retaining elements, since additional parts will be attached there. The is mandatory, regardless of the step of the crate, two solid boards for fastening the ridge lining are mounted. From the ends of the roof fasteners are fastened, which should be higher than the overall battens for the height of the metal profile.

Normally, the installation of the curtain rod and the roofing is preceded by the installation of the elements of the drainage system, in particular the brackets for the subsequent fastening of the catch basins on them. For more details on how to do this correctly, you can read in our publication on the water drain system .

After the crate is ready, the starting curtain rails and other elements provided by the roof structure are mounted, it is possible to proceed with the installation of the metal-coated coating.

Installation of metal tiles

It should immediately be noted that any work at height requires special precautions, insurance. Provision should be made for feeding the material upward, so as not to jam the sheets - usually for this purpose, guides are created - runners from flat boards.

Work should be carried out in shoes with a soft, preferably rubber sole, leaving no black traces on the surface. It is possible to step only on the bottom of the wave in the passages of the guides of the crate.

For work you will need tool nt for I cut sheet metal. Neither or which Bulgarian does not even speak comes - this tool nt sp especially damage and the metal structure in the cut , and the polymer coating from numerous sparks. Cutting is carried out using a circular electric saw, hand or electric scissors, sometimes you can resort to an ordinary hacksaw for metal.

Directly for fastening sheets you will need drill, screwdriver with headpiece-hexagon 8 mm. You will need a long rake - as a ruler to control the flatness of the layout of metal tiles. A metal massive ruler( rule lime) here will not be very convenient, and the is also , it can scratch the surface. The floor of the is the same reason as a measuring tool you need to use a tape measure not with a metal tape, but with a cloth tape.

Sheet preparation and assembly is carried out by in accordance with the schemes for which the calculation of was performed. The installation is always led by from the bottom-up and usually in the direction from right to left - in this case each subsequent sheet covers the previous one. If there is a need to mount in the opposite direction, from left to right, or st pr is to under the already installed.

If the slope has an angular shape, it is more convenient to start laying entire sections or a sheet with the maximum height, and then go to the fragments left and right. But it is necessary to take into account the correct ordering of the sheets - where they need to be laid from above, and where - shoved under the already mounted.

What type of screw is screwed into? There is no consensus here, as manufacturers often accompany their materials with layouts for fasteners, and they can vary significantly. So, in particular, some profiles are recommended to be fastened on the start guide in each lower wave, and in other cases you can meet recommendations - through the wave. In any case, it is always necessary to first carefully study the technical documentation of the metal tile.

The first standard is aligned at the edge of the eaves and temporarily fixed with one self-tapping screw from the top( at the ridge) in the center along the bottom of the wave. Then, the second fox is installed in the of the same horizontal row, the necessary overlap is performed. The second fox t t is also aligned on the eaves, and then through the through fastening through both sheets they are twisted together on top of the wave in the overlap area on the lower "tile".In this case, a short screw is used, so that at this point of fixing to the crate was not. The remains once again very precisely align the edges of both already fastened sheets together, and then hold their final fixation to the crate self-tapping screws at the bottom of the wave.

Screws are usually placed in staggered order, although, as already mentioned, manufacturers can recommend an individual, highly specific pattern of fastener location. For example - two different options for fixing sheets of metal:

Before proceeding to the final fixing of the roofing material, it is required to correctly set the tightening torque of the screw. If it is not tightened tightly, the rubber band will not block the hole securely from penetration of moisture. No less dangerous is the excessive tightening torque - the washer can bend upwards, that will also come to a bad fit of the gasket, and in addition to the - to the possible deformation of the sheet or even to the rotation of the screw in the wooden basis of the crate - and means ,here can and not be. How correctly to be reported to be tightened self-tapping - shown in the diagram.

You can first practice on scraps of metal and rails of the crate to expose the the most optimal tightening force.

The positioning of the screw with respect to the guide is no less dangerous. Fixing element nt ss only needs to screw in perpendicular, trying to avoid even a slight skew.

Assembling individual roof elements

If there is usually no problem with the planking of straight sections after the is clogged with the hand, then some structural elements may require special attention. If you do not even consider specific complex nodes, type dormer windows or external staircases, the then pockets, ridge joints, back corners or chimney pipes are present on virtually any roof.

Incorrect installation of these sections of the will cause the to flow through the roof, and the roof of the house will look very sloppy.

• The end plate is installed to protect the roof covering from the side wind, therefore its is often called wind. It is attached with nails or self-tapping screws to the wooden parts of the battens on the side and from above. If several slats are used, then their overlap should be about 70 - 100 mm.

• The ridge strip should be mounted as tightly as possible to prevent the from falling into the joint between two slopes, but the at the same time, the air from the of the sub-spacing should be allowed to flow outwards to avoid condensation.

The ridge bars can be round or angular. They are attached with the mandatory installation of sealing material between the and the surface of the metal tile. Fixation is made by long screws through the bar, flooring in the guide rail of the crate at the top of the wave, with a step of about 300 - 400 mm. When using several slats, they are given a lap of 100 mm.

Similar ridge profiles are installed on all external "fractures" of the roof, for example, on the corner joints of the hip roof facets.

• For the abutment to vertical surfaces, in particular, to chimney brick pipes, use special profiles - they are so called, abutment strips.

To provide the with a reliable waterproofing of the area around the pipe, first, the still before the flooring, from the masonry on the surface of the solid , the battens are fastened to a solid steel sheet( often referred to as a "tie".He should continue before the cornice overhang or to the nearest valley. It is advisable to equip the "tie" with small sides on both sides to exclude even accidental water leakage at its penetration under the roof.

Then on the perimeter of the pipe is installed the lower abutment( aprons).The existing protrusions of the slats are heated into the fences made in the masonry and sealed with a sealant.

Then the roofing is made for the metal-tiled coating. And on top of it, the self-cut screws are fitted with the upper abutting straps, which are also put into the masonry by their protrusions.

If the roof slope at its upper point is adjacent to a vertical solid wall, the joint is made by with the same slats and by with the same technology.

• Internal fractures of the roof, where the descending roof slopes meet, are trimmed with special profile elements, called by the lands of .

are installed. As already mentioned, in this section the solid crate is always made. Previously, the still to the roofing of the roofing itself, an internal endowment is installed throughout the of the extension of this inner corner, right up to the cornice overhang. Between the profile and the wooden parts, a solid rubber seal can be installed.

Then the metal roofing is made in accordance with the scheme. And the next step, to give the construction a complete and neat appearance, is mounted an external valuation. By the way, many experienced roofers do not recommend external roofing - under it is always clogged with a huge amount of dirt m dry leaves that interfere with the normal drainage of water.

After all roof installation work has been completed, it is necessary to carefully remove the remaining metal filings from the surface, which can be formed by screwing the screws or pruning parts in place. With metal, the protective film coating must be removed, if any. Areas where pure metal is visible, for example, in places cut , must be treated with a protective paint of the appropriate color.- its should offer when buying metal roofing.

Video: detailed video lesson for mounting metal-metal roof