Calculation for the construction of a spiral staircase to the second floor with your own hands

Making a spiral staircase to the second floor with your own hands, for example, for a dacha, just seems to be an arch-difficult task.

In fact, you need to know the basic nuances of the technology, make accurate calculations and will only have to systematically make a frame and then just decorate the material to your liking.

Further in the text we will reveal all the nuances of the manufacturing technology, and, of course, we will give a step-by-step instruction with the photo - how to make a calculation and collect the ladder for the dacha.

But before the instructions, we will tell you a little about the device and the types of the spiral staircase.

Types of spiral staircase

There are 4 types of spiral staircase( see photo):

• Screwsteps( metal or wooden) in the form of wedges - a wide part rests against the wall, and a narrow one is placed on the support post.
• The steps protrude from the support column cantilever. There is no need to have metal supports around the perimeter.
• No support post for steps. They are embedded in a bow, bent spiral and pass into the railing. In the manufacture of their own hands the most complex construction.
• Steel with inner core. The central stand is made by oneself from a metal pipe with a diameter of 5 cm( the calculation for it is given in the text below).
• The tread should be made 55-60 cm long, and the opening diameter - 140 cm - if the ladder is optional, and if it is the main one, it is 90 cm and 2 meters respectively( the calculation of the data is also given separately).

10 nuances of construction of the

staircase. The spiral staircase to the second floor of the villa, like any other metal structure designed to withstand constant loads, will prove to be unreliable if one of the following points is not met and it is not calculated correctly:

1. Stealing wooden steps in the absence of a riserspiral staircase reduces the likelihood of slipping the leg, which is always put on the step in the narrowest part of it - at the counter;
2. Walking always comes with an emphasis on the middle of the step, because the width in this place can not be less than 20 cm, and the width of the site at 15 cm from the support should be calculated not less than 10 cm;
3. Using a ladder specifies the length of the tread: if the staircase is extra, then 60 cm in length with a diameter of 140 cm, if someone is walking constantly on the stairs, the length of the step can be from 80 cm, and the diameter of the ladder - at least 2 m;
4. When calculating, keep in mind that the height of the passage - that is, the height from the step to the edge of the turn above - should not be less than 2 meters( pay attention to the elongation of the coil in the photo).Otherwise, you just have to hunch every time, not to bang;
5. A pipe from the diameter of 5 cm will come off the support post. It is placed vertically, and the support falls on a point that will withstand the load. It is desirable to calculate it from the calculation that at this point below there will be a wall of a cellar / pantry / garage or simply a solid foundation;
6. To the wooden floor the support is fixed by anchor bolts, to cement - concreting + metal extensions;
7. Each stage is fixed at a given distance from the adjacent one by means of bushings, the height of which is equal to the height from the stage to the stage;
8. The length of the step depends on the opening in the floor, the number of steps can be calculated by dividing the height of the stairs to the height between the steps - somewhere 20 cm + the thickness of the board;
9. Mount the steps with your own hands so that when viewed from above, it would overlap: you can strengthen the construction with brackets between the edges of the wide part of the neighboring boards;
10. Self-assembly always goes in order: calculation - installation of support - treads - bushings - distribution of steps - support brackets - the last stage is attached to the floor of the second floor.

Calculation of the ladder

Now it's time to make a calculation.

You need to calculate these sizes:

• step width in the middle - from 20 cm;
• width from the support - from 10 cm;
• width in the widest part at the edge - from 40 cm;
• diameter - from 1.3 to 3.3 m;
• diameter of the passage along the edge of the handrail - from 1.2 to 3.2 m;
• width of the march - 0.5-1.4 m;
• The opening diameter in the slab is 1.3-3.3 m.

Please note that the dimensions and calculation above are within the recommended figures and there is no reason to make a huge opening in the limited space of the cottage - the staircase will occupy a useful area and only.

Do not forget to calculate such a moment: comfortable height for lifting.

Video:

Let's calculate the dimensions for a ladder of 3 meters in height with a march of 80 cm wide:

• Diameter equal to the width of the march x2 + diameter of the support: D = 2х800 + 200 = 1.8 m
• The radius of the rise is ½ of the width of the march + the radius of the support: R =400 + 100 = 500 mm.
• According to the formula L = 2TTr / 200( width of the tread), we get: 2x3.14x500 / 200 = 17.2.We round up to an integer and get exactly 17 steps in one turn of the spiral. Attention: at a height of up to 3 meters, the ladder is unlikely to consist of 2 turns.
• The ergonomics of the step height is also calculated: lay a person's height of 180 cm. Add to it a stock of 20 cm and divide by the number of steps in the coil. Total 200 cm / 17 = 12 cm( rounding off from 11.7647).
• Count the number: divide the height of the ladder to the height of the step and get: 3000 mm / 120 mm = 25.

Final calculation: for our ladder 3 meters high, with a width of 80 cm, you need to make 25 steps with a height of exactly 12 cm with your own hands.

Making elements

So, taking into account the calculation, you need to make the components yourself.

Support

As a support any tube from 5 cm in diameter will fit. It should be thick-walled from metal and new, if you want the staircase to last several years.

Once the height is 3 meters( the height from the floor to the top edge of the floor on the second floor), the length of the pipe should be at least 3.1-3.2 meters so that it can be reliably installed by hand on the floor below and at the same time its height is enough.

Levels

Purchase a planed board of beech, ash, oak - as wide as possible. According to the experience of masters, glued wood can be used.

Photo:

Collect the bars in one panel, the fibers are directed in different directions. Glue the beams together and clamp the clamps to dry.

When the boards are dry, attach a template to the resulting sheet. Circle two contours - one exactly on the template, and the other outer - leaving an allowance of 5 mm, which afterwards will be processed to the desired one.

The uppermost step is, as a matter of fact, a platform, because it needs to be made wider, larger radius.

If there are holes in the steps for mounting on the support post itself, then they are chosen by the cutter with their own hands at once in several boards, which are stacked and fastened with clamps.

Racks and balusters

For glued beams, a glued beam with a cross-section of 5x5 cm is used.

The outer posts must be connected at once to two stages, which will prevent them from turning.

Photo:

Racks can be glued with their hands directly into the holes, fastened over the steps or be worn on the stage by sawing.

Handrail

Wooden and thin iron railings look good.

Wooden can be made by gluing bars together.

But the problem lies in a bent form: do you have a bending machine at home?

Therefore, it is better to order them separately according to the dimensions of the ladder in the furniture store.

Assembly of the

staircase.

Let's give you a step-by-step instruction for easy understanding of the process:

• Specify the location for the staircase. The ladder should be at a distance from the wall and not rest against it;
• The ceiling is marked: define the center of the circle, diameter, draw a circle;
• Determine with a vertical plumb line a similar circle on the first floor, draw a circle;
• Cut out the ceiling in the ceiling( we cut out the wooden beams of the ceiling) and immediately decorate it with a curved veneer or a wide plinth;
• We install the support: if the floor is wooden, it is desirable to weld a square sheet to the bottom of the pipe, in which to drill 4 holes for the anchor bolts. After the wooden floor is desirably disassembled in the place of installation, install the lower part of the pipe and then seal it according to the shape of the pipe: if the board or laminate, then rounded cutouts along the pipe diameter are made when stacking;
• If the floor is concrete, then it is possible to disassemble the top finish coat and simply drill 4 holes for the anchors, onto which the support is supported by a square sheet. After the screed and the support are closed with the final coating in the shape of the pipe;
• How to attach the upper part of the support: the top of the pipe is usually welded to the "leg" - a hollow pipe with a square part at the end, thanks to which our support is also fixed with 4 bolts, either to the floor itself and from above is closed by the last wide step, or fixed to the wall( if the ladderwalls);
• Installation of the steps is carried out depending on the features of their fastening: if they are put as usual - on rounded cutouts in the edges, the base should be collapsible. On the pipe with a given step, belts are put on which the narrow end of the step is put. In this case, the base can consist of several threaded pipes, which can always be disassembled and then replaced with any stage during repair;
• When all steps are exposed, balusters are put on them, but they do not fasten, as the saws will be made according to the trajectory of the railing;
• We put balusters on prepared holes in the steps, grooves or tongue-tie. We put a solid handrail( usually glued from veneer) on the screws to each balusters. Nails are inadmissible;
• It's worthwhile to install the twisted plinth as a stiffener along the entire length. In

Video:

Now it's time to cover the wood with lacquer, degrease, bleed the wood for the desired shade and cover it with a hydrophobic compound so that the staircase lasts as long as possible.

The assembly of the spiral staircase for the dacha is completed.