Stone fence with own hands

Stone fence has many distinctive features and advantages. Such fences are characterized by incredible reliability, texture and durability. For the construction it is possible to use the most diverse stone material, which makes it possible to realize an infinite number of design ideas - a ready design can harmoniously fit into any landscape.

The lifetime of a stone fence as such is unrestricted. Everything depends on the quality of mortar for masonry and the correctness of the work. To arrange the fencing you need to approach with maximum responsibility. Of course, you can invite a team of professional builders for this, but in such a situation you will have to spend a lot of money. And why do it, if all the necessary measures can be dealt with on their own?

What is needed for building a fence?

First of all, we choose the material for the construction of our fencing. We can spread rubble or hewn stone. The stones are called stones with specific dimensions and a certain shape. They are most conveniently used for masonry. In the absence of experience in laying stone, it is strongly recommended that the pillars be constructed of hewn elements.

Butovy same stone has an irregular shape and allows you to build structures with a unique design. It is recommended to lay out spans from such material - it will be very beautiful and original.

Among the most popular materials for laying stone fences, one can distinguish limestone and dolomite, as well as granite and sandstone.

We purchase or extract the required amount of the selected stone independently, and then we prepare the following working tools:

• concrete mixer or container for the preparation of mortar by hand;
• measuring tape;
• shovel;
• trowel;
• level;
• rods and cord for marking.

A few words about the preparation for the work of

After preparing all the necessary tools, we proceed to planning. We need to draw a sketch of the future fence, taking into account the features of its spatial placement and dimensions. In terms of dimensions, focus entirely on your preferences and financial possibilities. The average height of such fences is 2-2.5 m.

We clear the area from plants and debris, level the soil and transfer the drawing to the terrain. For marking, we use any stable rods and a strong rope. We drive marking posts into the ground along the perimeter of the future construction, pull the cord between them and move on to the next stage.

Making the foundation

The stone structure will have a solid weight, so before starting its erection, we must pay due attention to the arrangement of the foundation. We will build a fence on a solid tape reinforced base - the most optimal option for heavy fencing.

The width of the foundation is about 15 cm more than the analogous indicator of the finished fence. The height of the socle( part of the base, protruding above the ground) is chosen at our discretion. Builders recommend that it should be no lower than 10-15 cm. We will orient ourselves to this value with the further construction of the formwork.

The first step. Roy trench depth of about 70 cm.

The second step. Fall asleep the bottom of the pit with a 5-centimeter layer of sand. Padded carefully padded.

The third step. We install the formwork. It can be assembled from boards, plywood and other suitable materials.

Fourth step. We lay the reinforcing frame on the sand cushion. To strengthen the fence, 8 mm bars will suffice. We arm in 2 layers. First we lay a grid of reinforcement at a height of 50 mm from the sand cushion.

The second grid is fixed to 50 cm below the ground level. To fix both reinforcing layers and additional reinforcement of the foundation, we first drive into the ground reinforcement or pipes with a diameter of about 10 mm.

The fifth step. Fill the concrete. We remove the formwork at least 2 weeks later. The concrete itself will gain strength about 1 month.

Building pillars

We will build poles using the method of sliding formwork. The recommended sizes of poles - 300х300 or 400х400 mm at your discretion. We will collect the formwork from the boards, fastening them with screws.

The first step. We exhibit the formwork for the first row of stones. We maintain the chosen dimensions of the pillars.

The second step is .Temporarily lay out the first layer of the column without a solution. The stones should be as close to the walls of the formwork as possible. The gaps between the elements of the masonry are excluded.

The third step. Thoroughly having checked up stones for a laying of the first line, we put them already with application of a solution. We use a thick cement mixture. If the stones have smooth edges, just lay them on the solution like a brick. If the faces of the elements are uneven, you will have to tinker a little longer. In this situation, we pour the solution into the gaps between the stones. Similarly, we will lay out all subsequent series.

Fourth step. Having filled one row of formwork, we put another one on top of it and continue laying the post. We continue the analogous sequence.

The fifth step. After waiting a day after laying out the first tier, we dismantle the lower part of the formwork. The above fragment, at the same time, is left to be able to fasten the next tier of the wooden structure.

After removing the part of the formwork, carefully fill with a thick cement slurry between the stones, ensuring a neat appearance of the column and making it more durable. In the future, we will perform the seaming process. A guide for this work will be given below.

Helpful hint! To ensure that the masonry is not destroyed, we give each of its tiers the opportunity to gain strength during the day and only then continue to work.

Spread the spans

The foundation and poles are ready. We can proceed to spreading spans. The optimal size of stones for masonry sections is up to 20-25 cm. Such elements have a relatively small weight, which makes working with them easier and more convenient. If necessary, split large stones into smaller fragments using a hammer, or crush them with a perforator.

We will fix the stones with a thick solution from a portion of cement and three portions of sand. If you want to get seams different from the solution color, add a dry dye to the mixture.

As a rule, the width of a stone pillar exceeds that of a span section. In view of this, the wall needs to be uniformly displaced relative to the outer and inner sides of the pillars.

We perform the work in this order.

The first step. Apply the cement mixture to the substrate.

The second step is .Symmetrically lay the stones on both sides of the span. We connect the edges of the section with a thread. On it we will orientate with further clutching.

The third step. Fully spread the first row of span, filling the space between the faces laid out in the previous stage. The stones are best placed flat side up. Slots and voids are filled with a thick cement mixture.

Let the clutch get strength within 24 hours and similarly stack the next row. So we work until the planned height. Rows are strongly recommended to spread with a bandage.

Helpful advice! To get a flat upper line of the fence, the last row of each span is laid out of stones of equal height.

We work as carefully as possible in the masonry process. We try not to let the cement mixture get on the front side of the masonry elements. If the stones still get a solution, immediately clean it.

Finishing of the fence

To make the fence look more attractive, we perform the jointing. They can be convex, shallow and deep. The third option allows you to visually expand the amount of masonry. In the rest, be guided by your preferences and features of the design idea.

solution. We prepare the following for embedding:

• wire brush;
• cleaner;
• foam rubber.

Sutures are easiest to break after 3-4 hours after laying. Further, the cement mixture becomes too tight and difficult to be cut.

We work in this order.

The first step. We clean the stones and seams with a wire brush.

The second step. With the help of a cleaner we create in the seams neat grooves with a depth of 10-20 mm( at our discretion).

The third step. My fence. To do this, we use foam rubber, a brush and a solution of 30% hydrochloric acid. We take precautions: we work with acid in protective gloves.

The fence is ready.

Optional for decorating fence and providing fast lead atmospheric moisture install on pillars special caps . With desire design fencing it is possible to supplement with all possible forged elements - this remains on discretion of the owner .

How to make a fence of gabions

Length x Width x Height, meter	Cell, cm	Weight 1 grid, kg
1x0.5x0.5( Zn 240g / m.)	6x10	6.8
1x0.5x1( Zn 240g / sq. M.)	6x10	13
2x0.5x0.5( Zn 240g / sq. M.)	6x10	12
2x0.5x1( Zn 240g / sq. M.).)	6x10	18,5

Good work!

Video - Assembling a gabion fence

Video - Building a fence of gabions

Video - Stone fence