Brick fence posts for own fences

Brick poles give the protection of the suburban area solidity, make the fence more durable. They are quite applicable to almost all types of fence, being its support, and if desired by , in time, the fencing material can be changed to another, completely changing the design. Yes, and the brick posts themselves can succumb, for example, repainting in a different shade, and this will also be an update of the appearance of the fence. But still the main in the brick supports of the fence - is the reliability , the strength and durability of the structure, which can stand for many decades, and with proper laying and timely restoration, the life of their operation is even difficult to assess.

Brick poles for fencing by own hands must be built by any land owner. Of course, the process of erecting the pillars by an inexperienced master will not pass as quickly as, say, a professional who is constantly engaged in this work, but on this you can save a decent amount.

A beginning mason who decided to install a brick fence, it is necessary to thoroughly study the technology of this process, and also in advance to find out what and why it is necessary to prepare tools for .

Tools and accessories for work

As with any brickmasonry "little blood," that is, conventional tools for making it is very difficult to manage, it is necessary to prepare professional. In addition to these, ancillary devices will be needed to help make the seams between the bricks perfectly even and neat.

So, for work, you need the following "arsenal":

• Sovkovaya and bayonet shovel. These tools are usually found in every private house, but if its is purchased by , the money will not be wasted, since the shovels are useful for a variety of needs. In the process of erecting a fence for shovels, a lot of functions lie: it is the preparation of trenches for pouring the foundation, and the filling of bulk materials, and the preparation of masonry mortar.
• Capacity for solution. Since brick poles have enough large weight, for them the will have to equip the foundation, which requires a considerable amount of solution, therefore the capacity should be very voluminous. The will suit the , for example, an old bathtub or a large galvanized trough. If there are no , will knock down the wooden box and trim it inside with a galvanized metal sheet, in which it will be convenient to mix the solution. For the manufacture of the box, the dimensions are 1500 × 1000 mm, the height of the rims must be at least 200 - 250 mm, but do not need to make them too high.

The issue will be solved much easier if the farm has a concrete mixer, or there is the possibility of to lease its for the duration of the construction work.

In addition to the large capacity of the , smaller sizes are also needed. It is useful during brick laying, since its is convenient to carry to any part of the fence. As its is suitable basin for 8 ÷ 10 liters.

• Two galvanized buckets. One of them will be needed for water, which should always be at hand, and the second - for fine gravel or pebbles, with which fill the voids inside the brick pillars, if they have a large empty space.
• Trowel and spatulas. Moulder - it, in general, is the most necessary tool in the mason's work when laying brick - it is superimposed and the excess solution is removed. A spatula of medium size will help to level the mortar in the right places. Some wizards just prefer to use its during the masonry.
• Measuring tools - construction level, angle, measuring tape and plumb line. These tools will help to monitor the horizontal lines, the verticality of supports and walls, the accuracy of the angles, measure the sides of the pillars, their height and the distance between them.

• . A hand drill is useful for making holes for holes( holes) for installation of metal supports. The foundation for the posts should be buried more than the rest of the foundation tape, because the main load from the fixed between them sampling spans will fall precisely on the support elements.

• Five rebar round or square bars, size 8 × 8 or 10 × 10 mm( but only - all the same!).Four rods must have a length of 150-170 mm longer than the side of a square brick pole, and the still has an one - on 20 , the is 25 mm larger than the brick thickness. With these simple devices, you can withstand the same thickness of horizontal joints between rows of masonry and vertical - between adjacent bricks.

• Scaffolds or scaffolds can be used for work at a height for laying at the top of the posts, since they usually rise to a height of not less than 1800 ÷ 2000 mm. The level of the scaffolding above the should be about half of this height for the .This device will help to work in more comfortable conditions, because next to it will be it is quite possible to place bricks into several rows and capacity with a solution, as well as all tools necessary for work.

• are convenient. When working with a cement-based mortar it is necessary to protect the hands of with rubberized gloves , since cement corrosive acts on the skin, especially if it has even very minor damageswounds, scratches, inflammations and )

The basic stages of the

work. Prepare the in the as necessary, you can move on to compiling the work plan, writing in parallelin a separate list all the needed materials. The construction of brick pillars in includes the following main stages of work:

• Layout of the future fencing in the area. Carrying out this process, determine the number of poles and their location. In this case, it is necessary to take into account that the supports are installed at the corners, on both sides of the gate or wicket, and on straight sections at a distance of 2000 to 2500 mm from each other.
• Digging trench and drilling holes for the installation of poles and foundation pouring.
• Installation of metal supports around which brickwork will be made. The posts are embedded in the drilled with holes using a cement slurry.

This process will require: sand-cement mortar, gravel, sand, waterproofing material and support pipe with a diameter of 100 ÷ 150 mm.

	The layout of the brick pillars looks like this. In the diagram, the following elements are shown in the figures: 1 - support pipe installed inside the brick structure; 2 - part of the base of the pillar, filled with a rough solution made of sand, crushed stone and cement; 3 - ribbon foundation for masonry span between posts; 4 - the upper layer of the foundation of a thin solution of sand and cement; 5 - brickwork; 6 - protective coating( hood or ebb) of the column.
	First, the layout of the terrain is made, where the fence will be installed. It is based on the available plan of the site, on which the so-called "red line" is defined, over which the fence can be installed. The first step is to determine the reference point in which a peg or a piece of reinforcement is driven in, the width of the future trench under the foundation is determined, and the second peg is driven in from the first peg.
	From the control points in the desired direction, two twines are stretched and fastened to the reinforcement or stakes at the other end of the future fence. If the fence will limit the area not with one but from several sides, then the same marking with the help of stretching cords is made from all the fenced sides. Further, on the marked strip a trench is digging under the general shallow foundation of the fence. Its depth can vary from 250 to 300 mm. Taking into account the required thickness of sand filling, the depth of the trench is made to 100 ÷ 150 mm more.
	After completion of digging of the trench, in it at a distance of 2000 ÷ 2500 mm one from the other drilled holes for metal poles or reinforcing bars. The depth of the holes must be 500 ÷ 700 mm, and the diameter is larger than the cross-section of the column to be set to 150 ÷ ​​200 mm. At the bottom of the trench, a sand-gravel cushion 100-150 mm thick is poured and sealed as much as possible.
	The hole before installation of the support pipe, it is recommended to prepare, putting waterproofing material in it, and to the bottom, filling and compacting the sand with a layer of 80 ÷ 100 mm.
	The next step in the well is to install a pipe-stand, with welded on it from below and along the sides with metal crossbars, the role of which can be performed by cuts of corners, pipes or thick reinforcement. They, after hardening of the concrete, will ensure the stability of the rack, will not allow the pipe to sink with time under the influence of the load.
	The post is set strictly vertically in the level or plumb line, fixed in the desired position. Then, in the hole around the column, a rough solution is filled, consisting of concrete and crushed stone. It needs to be dumped, in order that there are no air voids in it.
	After the concrete around the posts has solidified, a reinforcement structure is installed in the trench, which is fastened with wire twisting and in the same way joins the posts in the middle part. Next, go to the assembly of formwork for the entire foundation tape. The formwork is raised to the required height and its bottom and walls are lined with waterproofing material, so that the concrete solution does not seep between the boards, and the moisture from it does not go to the soil.
	Further, formwork is filled with concrete mortar. This process is recommended for one approach, and if the fence is long and the formwork is high enough, a solution will be required. Therefore, it will be practically impossible to obtain such quantity of concrete at the same time, if it is kneaded by hand. From this position, there are two ways out - to rent a concrete mixer or to order a ready solution in a profile company. On concrete poured into the formwork it is necessary to walk with a bayonet shovel - it pierce the solution every 200 ÷ 250 mm. This process must be carried out in order to release as yet plastic concrete from air bubbles that can form during pouring. After that, the surface of the concrete is leveled by the rule, and the design is left to solidify and recruit strength - this process takes a long time, the works can be continued only after 20-28 days, depending on the thickness and height of the foundation. To make the foundation strong, starting from the second day after pouring it, you should water it daily for 10 ÷ 14 days.
	It is possible to conduct the decking in one to two weeks, depending on the air temperature. In order not to waste time remaining until the tape has fully ripened, you can do some operations with metal stands.
	All metal racks are connected by horizontal bridges. They are fixed at an altitude of approximately 350 ÷ 400 mm from the foundation and from the top of the columns, maintaining a horizontal level. Additionally, you can install a jumper in the middle part. These elements in aggregate will give a framework of rigidity, which is very important for the design of the fence.
	After the frame of the fence is ready, and the foundation will gain vintage strength, you can proceed to the brickwork of the pillars. The brick is laid out around the supporting metal posts. Mortar for brick laying should be uniform and thin, that is, the sand entering into its composition is sieved through a sieve with small cells.
	But, before applying the mortar on the foundation, on its edges, along the perimeter of the future brick row, the metal pieces of the reinforcing bar are laid. With their help, the same thickness of joints is maintained throughout the entire masonry. The rod is stacked on all four sides. Then, holding it, on the site where the masonry will be made, the mortar is applied and leveled to the thickness of the rod. Further, a brick is placed on top of the mortar and the rod, the leveling of which is controlled by the building level. If necessary, a brick is taped with a rubber hammer to achieve a perfectly accurate position.
	To keep the width of vertical seams between bricks, at the level of its outer edge, also put a piece of rod. Then, the side part of the brick is smeared with a solution, holding the rod, and the next brick is laid.
	After exposing and leveling the brick, the vertical bar is removed from the seam and set to the edge of the newly laid brick. This side is again smeared with a solution, and the third brick is laid out to it, and then, according to the same scheme, the fourth one.
	After the completion of laying out the series, all the rods are removed from the seams, leaving a narrow empty space between the bricks on the outside of the masonry, which after the laying of three to four rows must be filled with mortar and smoothed out - with a special tool.
	Next, the process is repeated cyclically - bars are put on the finished masonry row, a mortar is applied and brick is laid. This continues until the post is raised to the desired height.
	After laying the last row of the brick column, its upper part needs to be properly formed. If the metal pipe has an uncapped hole on top, it must be closed to prevent moisture from entering the cavity. Therefore, it is most often covered with a metal plate, and cement mortar is applied from above.
	After this, a roof is mounted on top of the pole, which is usually selected together with the material being installed in the span between the posts. A metal hood is usually fastened to the walls of the column using dowels. Can be used and castings - then they are installed on the solution. After completing the design of the posts from the top, you can proceed to the installation on metal jumpers of the fence spans.
Illustration	Brief description of the operation

• Brick masonry pillars. For mortar you need mortar and brick.
• Installation of tops of pillars or roof caps.

Calculation of material

Produce calculation can suffice precisely , if is pre-planned their different size in section. Most often they are laid out in such a way that one side of the column consists of one and a half bricks, that is, one row of them will need 4 pieces.

The standard size of masonry baked brick is 120 × 250 mm. With the above type of masonry, one side of the square in the cross section of the column will be a size of 250 + 120 + 10 = 380 mm. The last value in the is the sum, 10 mm - is the width of the seam.

The thickness of the brick is 65 mm and, taking into account the joints between rows of masonry, per one column, with a height of 2000 mm, they will require approximately 108 pieces.

The is calculated as follows:

65 + 10 = 75 mm - thickness of the series along with the seam;

2000 : 75 = 26.7 - number of rows;after rounding, 27 rows are obtained;

27 × 4 = 108 bricks - in this case the number of rows is multiplied by the number of bricks in the row.

When making calculations for , one should also take into account the fact that the lower three to four rows should be laid out of solid bricks in accordance with all the rules. This is necessary for the lower part of the support to have more weight and good stability.

In the cavity of the column, you can install a metal pipe, which is embedded in the foundation. The number of pipes should be equal to the number of poles, and they should have a height of 400 to 600 mm more than the height of the planned brick pillars, since they will be buried in the ground and the foundation for this difference.

Instead of supporting pipes, reinforcing metal bars Ø 12 ÷ 16 mm are often used, which are also fixed in the foundation concrete and are connected with itreinforcing belt. For each of the pillars, you need to plan from two to six rods of the required length.

Do have you with the experience of doing brickwork?

If this will have to do for the first time, then it will be superfluous to get acquainted with the basic technological receptions of .About the rules of execution of brickwork - in the special publication of our portal.

Step-by-step instruction for erecting brick columns

To understand well the stages of work, they need to be considered in detail. And then, performing the construction of poles, you can rely on these instructions with the given the specific features of your own fence installation plan.

What type of fence is suitable for brick posts?

Yes, almost any. So, the brick fence will look very harmonious. Perfectly combined with such supports and spans wooden fence .The forged fence will give special prominence to the site. Well, if means are limited, then it is possible to put fence from profiled .

Detailed instructions for all listed types are on the pages of our portal.

It should be noted that some masters do without the installation of reinforcing metal racks inside the brick structure, especially in cases where the pillars are large in size. Instead of pillars, a fine fraction or gravel is filled in the cavity of the column, which is then poured into a liquid grout in a consistency.

Backfilling is performed as the post is raised. So, for example, having folded 5 ÷ 6 rows, the inner cavity is filled and poured, then is followed by 5 ÷ 6 rows of masonry and so on up to the top.

It is necessary to decide in advance which way will be produced installation of brick poles, and, depending on this, purchase the necessary amount of materials.

And what about the gate?

Once the fence is being built, means it is necessary to plan the gate and the device. There are also many options. It is possible to make uncomplicated gates of the swing type .For those who like tasks more complicated, for sure, will like the design of the sliding gate .Detailed instructions are on the pages of our portal.

Make any masonry - not so just like seems at first glance, especially if in this work there is no experience. Therefore before to start to display posts or walls, it is recommended to practice, and to begin to lay down an equal wall from a brick dry, and then and on a solution in that place which will not rush into eyes. Well and if all goes successfully, and the work will be done independently, it will be possible to save a very decent amount.

Not enough money for brick poles?

It's okay - you can slowly accumulate material, but for now just concrete pillars for fence .It will be possible to enclose them with brickwork at a later date.

And in the end of publication - video master-class on the construction of brick poles for fence.

Video: the nuances of the correct masonry of brick