What is a manual drill for excavation?
To pay rent of the drilling rig in order to get a few hundred holes for planting around the perimeter of the site - a pleasure is not cheap and only a fairly well-off people can afford. And why pay more, when you can buy( and even make yourself) quite a handy drill for excavation. But what exactly is this instrument?
Many of you, for sure, have seen at least once in a lifetime a drill for ice, which you can work on the principle of a coloure. The earth tool looks somewhat different, but the principle of action is the same - rotation of the so-called "Archimedean screw" on the end of the straight rod using the handle on the top of the tool.
Buying a bur in the store, you can choose not only a mechanical but also a motorized auger, for which you need a bit of gasoline and a pair of strong hands( and preferably two pairs) to hold the tool strictly vertically while the engine is running. But, perhaps, you think that you will perfectly manage the simplest manual variant.
This solution will cost you no more than 5000 rubles, taking into account additional attachments and several sections for lengthening the instrument. In addition to the listed accessories, for a hand drill you will also have to choose a handle that can be T-shaped or cross.
How to use earth drill?
An avid lover of ice fishing will quickly learn to drill holes in the ground, but if such skills are not available, it will be useful to know some of the nuances of drilling the ground. In particular, many are sure to be upset by the fact that although the drill facilitates the work, more than 30 holes per day can not be made even with a screw tool, not to mention manual.
At the initial stage, the only difficulty is to hold the rod strictly vertically, while the nozzle bites into the ground. For greater accuracy, it is advisable to make a small hole with a conventional shovel, and already drive into it the tip of the drilling rig. Especially this method of starting work is appropriate in the event that you have a lot of grass growing on the site.
For a good vertical fixation and subsequent removal of tools from the ground, it is best to use a special tripod with a pulley block on the carabiner system.
Sometimes it happens that the working part of the tool wedges in a hard ground so that it can not be scrolled backwards with the help of handles. In this case, the upper segment of the drill is removed together with the handle, and on the axle protruding from the ground a fixed wrench is firmly fixed, on the handle of which a long section of pipe is put on. With this lever, the tool is easily rotated counter-clockwise for subsequent removal.
Earth drill with their own hands
With a welding machine with a gas burner and some experience with these units, it is possible to produce an excellent drill made from improvised materials. To do this, you need 1.5 meter lengths of not too rusty pipe( or, better, new, in oil) for sections, a drill with a diameter of 30 millimeters to 50, or steel reinforcement of the same section, the end of which is sharpened by four facets slightly twisted in a spiral.
The internal diameter of the pipes must be such that the drill or rod is inserted inwardly freely, but without a large clearance. Also you will need a circular saw, which, being cut with the help of a grinder on 2 parts, will become an excellent cutter. And, finally, a few ten-centimeter pipe lengths, whose inner diameter is one millimeter larger than the outer diameter of our future sections.
In these segments we insert our one and a half-meter pipes by 3 centimeters, after which we weld the parts thoroughly. Then, after stepping back from each end of the assembled assembly of centimeter 3, we drill through holes of the same diameter for the bolted connection. Drill segments are ready.
To obtain the work part, weld the drill to the extreme section by inserting it into the thin part of the pipe and welding it. The length of the tip should be about 7-10 centimeters. Then we put the two halves of the circular saw in front of us with a cut to ourselves, and with the help of the burner we heat and slightly bend upwards( degrees to 20) the fifth part to the left.
Now, turning the bend downwards, and welding the two halves of the disk to the junction of the drill and pipe, equidistant from each other, we get an excellent milling cutter for clockwise drilling. The handle is made by simply welding a piece of reinforcement perpendicularly to a small piece of pipe of the same diameter with a section, in which a hole is also drilled 3 cm from the edge.