Repair of Bulgarians can not be started without understanding the mechanism of
. There are only three main components in the angle grinder: it is an anchor, stator and reducer. In this case, the armature is a rotating element, it contains windings and is needed precisely to create the torque transmitted to the reducer. The stator also includes windings, divided into two parts. Electricity is supplied to one of them, through a brush( coal bar) comes to the anchor segment touching it at the moment, then from another part of this node the current leaves through the second brush to the next sector of the stator.
If the circuit is OK, the armature rotates and drives the disc through the gears. Reducer is needed in order to constrain the speed of rotation within certain limits .As you can see, repairing the Bulgarians with their own hands can be quite simple, but you need to get to the nodes, so first we unscrew the screw in the back of the casing( in the same place, the speed regulator is often located).
The screw usually holds a small plastic plate, without which the casing will easily move. You will see all the above nodes, except for the gearbox, it is hidden under a metal cap, which takes over the bulk of the heating mechanism. You can remove the reducer by unscrewing the 4 screws and you have already reached the mechanical part of the bulgarian.
How to repair bulgarian, if problems in electrical part?
Even without the skills of electrical engineering, you do not have to worry about how to repair a Bulgarian, if you know what it does not work. There can be relatively few options. In particular, if sparks are seen around the anchor, a characteristic odor arises during operation, the casing is heated and light claps are heard - the reason is for sure in the collector - the main anchor assembly. It looks like a plate located around the rod, it is to them that all the ends of the winding are brought together, and their main purpose is contact with brushes.
As we already know how to get to the anchor, remove the brushes from special grooves, where they are held by spiral springs( such can be seen in the watch movement).Do this with the reducer removed. Next, we take the anchor for the gear wheel of the transfer of the rotational motion and pull on ourselves. Try not to frustrate the rolling bearing fixed to the other end of the axle and recessed in a special recess inside the casing. We clean the collector, if it is contaminated, if it is burnt out, it will be necessary to install a new anchor.
If all electrical components of the grinder are working, but the speed control unit burned, usually copiously covered with epoxy, we replace it with a conventional dimmer of sufficient power, connecting it in series with the angle grinder.
If, at startup, the drive starts to gain momentum and overclocks too much, the stator winding is definitely stuck on the stator winding. Repair of the stator bulgarka begins with the cutting of the frontal parts of the winding, the remains of which are taken out. Then we make a new winding with a template, sandwiched between two large plates on the axis, which can be inserted into the drill. The main thing is to achieve an identical number of turns made with proper density and withstand the thickness of the wire. We insert two coils into the stator housing, the leads are made from the same winding wire, insulating with flexible tubes of the appropriate diameter.
Repair of the Bulgarian reducer - learn
applied mechanics Remember how to unscrew the 4 screws of the reducer? Under them you will not find anything special, just a sea of grease, rolling bearings and gears. In models with a power of up to 1100 W, sprocket gears are usually used, mounted at an anchor, while bulbs with a greater power, for example, at 1500 W, require helical gears. Both variants have a conical shape, since the shaft axis of the reducer intersects with the armature shaft, and transmission is possible only by angular coupling of the teeth.
The speed of the rotation of the disk is regulated by the gearbox due to a certain number of teeth on the gear. For example, if the anchor gear wheel has 10 teeth, and the gear wheel has 41, then at an armature rotation speed of 32800 rpm, the disc will only give 8000 revolutions per time. As a rule, repair of the reducer of a Bulgarian only consists in the replacement of gears. If the disk cogwheel has broken, then it will be very difficult to remove it for replacement, in the reducer this unit is fastened best.
However, if you have a universal puller with fairly thin paws among the tools, problems should not arise. With the gear of the anchor shaft it should be even easier, it always keeps on the right thread, but do not rush to unscrew it, first wind it around with a rag so as not to damage the teeth with a wrench. And do not spare the solidol for the internal cavity of the reducer, sometimes it sticks just because the lubricant is partially dried, partially smeared over the surface of the metal casing.