Doors for the closet compartment with your own hands

Calculator for calculating the width of the sliding door of the Aristo cabinet

Specify the requested data and press the button Calculate the leaf width

Specify the length of the opening( Lp) in millimeters

Indicate the planned number of shutters

two three four five

Specify the type of profile

Profile With

Profile H

Presence of a shlegel

with a hose without a hosegle

• The next calculation is the length of the cross bars: upper, lower and, if necessary, medium frames.

Diagram of the dimensions of the door leaf

Here the calculations are simple - the initial value is the calculated width of the leaf. So, the length of the transverse frames is:

- for profile C: Lp = Lc - 52 mm

- for profile H: Lp = Lc - 70 mm

• It remains only to determine the door filling size

Dimensions fill fillfrom their thickness( both parameters, and height and width of the insert), profile type( width only) and the number of inserts separated by transverse bridges( height only).

The width is defined as follows:

The profile type	The thickness of the filling insert	The width of the filler insert
The profile With	4 mm	L3 = Lc = 39 mm
8 mm	L3 = Lc - 38 mm
10 mm	L3 = Lc - 36 mm
Profile H	4 mm	L3 = Lc - 57 mm
8 mm	L3 = Lc - 56 mm
10 mm	Lz = Lc - 54 mm

The height is somewhat more complicated, since it depends on the number of fill fragments, that is, on the number of jumpers installed. But the type of the profile does not matter anymore.

The number of filling fragments can also differ

In this case, you can also use the formulas shown in the table below, or you can entrust the calculation to the calculator immediately below the table.

Calculator for calculating the height of the filling fragment

After all the required data has been measured andcalculated, you can make a table of the required detail and send for the purchase of materials.

Conducting the installation of the door of the sliding cabinet of the "Aristo"

What should be prepared from the tools?

The following tool "arsenal" is required for performing the assembly work:

• Tool for cutting aluminum profiles. This operation can be performed using a manual hacksaw on the metal, or by using an electric jigsaw with an aluminum saw set on it, and at an average swing frequency of the pendulum. Absolutely no use for cutting profiles "grinder" - this leads to overheating of the metal with the destructuring of its protective( polymer or oxidized) coating.

Aluminum profile saw

Some companies engaged in the implementation of such systems often provide paid services for high-precision cutting profiles by the size of the customer - this can be clarified when purchasing the material.

Electric jigsaw and hand-held vertical saw( "parquet")

	First of all, two identical strips are prepared from the standard chipboard. Length - corresponds to the design opening width Lp. The width can be taken as 100 mm. On each of the laths are marked and drilled holes for self-tapping screws for fixing to the floor and the flow. Self-tapping screws are baited, so that the tips come out from the opposite side by about 2 -3 mm
	The bar is set in the desired position. ..
	. .. and then gently pressed against the ceiling surface so that the tips of the screws leave marks - the center of the holes for the dowels.
	In the planned points, a hole is drilled with a perforator, into which plugs are inserted and clogged.
	The plank is installed in place, the tips of the hardened screws should fall into the holes of the blocked plugs.
	Now it remains only to finally fix the lath-bar on the surface of the ceiling - tighten the screws.
	Precisely in the same order the bar is fixed to the floor surface.
	Guide profiles, upper and lower, are stacked with the back side up. Markup is made - the length equal to Ln is measured. If you plan to install a straight or shaped stop, then the corresponding correction is made - this is mentioned above. So, the required length of the upper profile is measured.
	At the intended point, a perpendicular is drawn with a triangle - a mark for cutting.
	A similar operation is performed with the lower guide profile.
	Further, on the planned lines it is made by a reamer or a hand hacksaw. Requires increased accuracy, so as not to "slide" from the direction. Profiles are always cut from the back.
	The lower guide profile is cut in the same way.
	So, there are two blanks of the same length. You can immediately map and drill a 3 mm diameter hole for self-tapping screws, with which the guides will be fastened to the lining bars. The pitch between the screws for length is usually chosen within 250 ÷ 350 mm, and it is better to place them in a staggered order - with a shift from the central axis, then one way, then the other.
	In the upper profile, self-tapping screws with the same pitch simply alternate in different guide channels.
	Before tightening the guide profiles to the slats, it is necessary to precisely align their relative position vertically. This operation requires a plumb line. For side profiles type C and H, the position of the rails is different. - The central longitudinal axes of the top and bottom guides must exactly match if the door is of type H. . - If profiles of type C are used, the lower guide is shifted backwards, away from the facade. The line of its rear edge exactly coincides with the inner surface of the far shelf of the upper guide. To make it clearer, the orientation of the guides on the diagram is highlighted with a red dotted line( the picture is clickable).
	After the marking, you can fix the guide profiles. First, the upper is fixed with screws.
	After its installation, you can once again plumb the control line of the bottom guide.
	The lower guide is then fastened.
	For mounting the guides, it is most convenient to use self-tapping screws with a wide head( press washer) 4.2 × 16. The design of the profiles is such that the hats can not prevent the moving of the rollers.
Illustration	Brief description of the operation

	Begin with the marking of vertical rack-pens. The length equal to Nd is measured, a mark is made on which the cut will be made. Important note: If a door installation kit has been purchased, two holes for the lower frame and support rollers can be drilled on profiles 1 or 2 on one side. Naturally, when marking in the required size, the length is measured from this side, so as to keep it intact.
	Carefully cut off the drawn line of the handle profile.
	The length of the Lp is measured on the bottom frame( 6) profile, and the perpendicular line is drawn on the square.
	Profile is trimmed neatly. It is very important to cut the profiles for the lower and upper frames to maintain an ideal right angle.
	For the same length Lp , and just as neatly, the profile of the upper frame( 5) is cut off.
	After cutting two profiles for the top and bottom frames, it is recommended to compare their lengths - it should ideally match.
	Similarly, the lateral vertical handle profiles must be exactly the same in length.
	After the profiles are cut, they are recommended to be laid out in the "normal position", that is, lay out on the floor( bench) the layout of the future door frame. This is important to do so as not to be mistaken with further operation - drilling holes. Side handle profiles should mirror each other. If the profile C - all clearly enough, then the handles H sometimes allowed errors. The diagram shows the correct position of the profiles.
	Go to the layout of the hole centers. The scheme of their location relative to the edge of the profile is shown in the illustration. The edge with two holes must correspond to the bottom of the frame. The center of the holes must be located exactly on the longitudinal axis of the groove running along the entire length of the profile from the outside.
	After marking the centers, it is better to nock them, so that the drill does not move to the side when entering.
	The first pass is made with a well sharpened drill with a diameter of 5 mm.
	The drill must pass through the upper and lower profile flanges. These holes in the shelves must be strictly coaxial, therefore it is very important to observe the verticality of the translational displacement of the drill.
	Profile after the first pass with a 5 mm drill.
	When mounting the frame, the head of the assembly screw must be hidden inside the profile. In order for it to pass through the outer shelf, the hole in it is reamed up to 10 mm. The hole in the lower shelf does not change.
	The same operations are performed with the second profile.
	Go to opposite edges of the handle profiles. Here, according to the same procedure, two holes are drilled - the mounting hole and the adjusting screw of the roller. As already mentioned, in the purchased sets of parts, these pairs of holes can already be performed in the factory.
	The profiles are again laid out in the "normal position" and go to the installation work.
	You can start with the attachment points of the upper frame. The assembly screw is inserted into the hole, is healed, so that its threaded tip comes out 10-15 mm outwards.
	The profile of the upper frame is joined, so that the tip of the screw falls into the channel designated for it. The hex key is used to assemble. At first, you will have to exert a certain effort, as the screw will cut its "road". Twisting is carried out until there is a gap of approximately 4 mm between the head and the profile shelf.
	After this, insert the upper roller plug into the remaining clearance. Now the knot can be tightened to the end. Important point: - If side profiles of type H are used, the rollers for them are symmetrical, and it is impossible to err with their arrangement. - In the case of using profiles of type C( as in the present embodiment) the rollers have an asymmetry. The forward side of the roller should be directed towards the front of the door.
	If everything was measured, cut off and assembled correctly, the edges of the frame will enter into small grooves-edges of the vertical profile. You should get an exact right angle. The same operation is performed on the opposite side of the upper frame.
	When mounting the connectors on the bottom frame, the assembly screw is inserted into the hole located farther from the edge. The further actions are similar - the screw gets in the channel of the bottom frame and is tightened up to the stop. The same is made on the opposite side of the
	. The lower rollers are installed. They are inserted into the cavity of the lower frame so that the spring plate looks towards the center of the door.
	Holding the roller with one hand, the other into the last hole of the profile turn the adjusting screw and press it into the adjusting plate-nut of the roller.
	This illustration shows the location of the adjusting screw. It should not be tightened - it's enough to put on 10-15 mm. All adjustments will be carried out later, after the final installation of the door in the closet.
	In fact, the frame is ready. You can proceed to the preparation and installation of the filling.
Illustration	Brief description of the operation

• Tool for cutting wood and panels based on it. It can be the same jigsaw or a hand-held vertical circular saw( "parquet").Such a tool may be needed if pads are to be manufactured and installed under the guiding profiles, or in the event that it is decided to cut the filler inserts for the door leafs yourself.
• Tool and accessories kit for drilling aluminum profiles. Ideally, of course, it is better to have a drilling machine, at least the simplest, designed to install a drill in it - this will ensure accurate vertical translational movement of the drill. Of course, you can do without it, but you will have to be very careful to drill holes.

Drilling tools

Drills for metal with a diameter of 3, 5 and 10 mm are required. To accurately mark the centers of the holes, it is recommended that they be cored.

• Screwdriver or screwdriver set. In addition to the usual bits for screwing self-tapping screws( it will be necessary for the installation of guide profiles), 6 mm hex bits are required. Often, when implementing the profile systems, sellers complete them with the simplest hexagonal keys.

For the installation and adjustment, you will need hexagonal keys and bits( 6 mm)

• Naturally, you will need measuring instruments - ruler, gon, necessarily - level and plumb( conventional or laser).
• Regular woodwork tools should be at hand. In addition, when inserting a filling of chipboard or MDF thickness of 10 mm, sometimes you have to apply a little impact forces - this will require a rubber or wooden hammer( mallet).
• If it is intended to fasten the profiles( or linings for profiles) to rigid building structures( brick, concrete, etc.), then it is necessary to prepare a punch, drills, corresponding dowels and screws.
• When cutting profiles along the edges there may be small but sharp burrs that are capable both of hindering the assembling of the assembly and of injuring the skin of the master's Uruk. You can clean them neatly with a file or a file with a small notch.

Installation of horizontal profile guides

In this case, the installation of the guide profiles on the supplied leveling bars will be shown. This gives a number of advantages - the profile is easier to fix to the floor and ceiling surface without the risk of making a mistake, deforming the metal. The base of the profiles is absolutely straight. In addition, slightly lowered above the floor surface, the lower guide will take less dust in the skids.

Some master installers prefer to expose the guide profiles differently. They initially rigidly fix in the desired position only the upper guide. After the door is assembled, the lower guide is laid on the orientation target without fixation. Door leafs are installed, and then their verticality is monitored using the normal level.

Having achieved the ideal verticality of the doors, along the edge of the bottom guide draw a line. Then the door leaves are removed, and the final fixing of the lower guide profile is made along the line.

Once the guide profiles are installed, you can proceed to install the frame of the sliding doors themselves.

Assembly of the door leaf frame

For work, two vertical profiles are needed - handles( 1 or 2), upper and lower frames( 5 and 6), two pieces of upper and lower rollers, four assembly screws.

In this case, the assembly of the frame will be shown using a vertical handle-type WITH ( asymmetric).Working with the profile differs only in minor nuances, which will be mentioned.

By the way, after assembling the frame - it's time to try it on the guides, especially in the case mentioned, when the lower profile is not fixed yet. Now, to set the exact vertical of the plane of the door( alignment of the guides) is much easier, since the structure is not yet loaded with the entire filling mass.

But the adjustment of the door itself at this stage does not make any sense. This operation will be performed correctly only under full loading conditions of the entire structure.

	The frame was assembled earlier. It remains to insert in it the filling - a mirror 4 mm thick. While the frame was assembled, internal stresses were significantly reduced in its parts, so that dismantling and reassembly would be much easier than the original assembly.
	A silicone sealing profile is used to install the mirror. It is for sale by the meter. It should be enough for the perimeter of filling all the doors.
	The sealant is beginning to be installed from the corner of the mirror.
	Silicone profile gently dresses on the end of the glass and sinks down to the stop, at full depth.
	The seal should sit evenly over the entire length of the mirror.
	After reaching the corner, the silicone profile is cut level with the edge of the insert.
	The work continues in the same way along the entire perimeter of the glass. At the corners, the sealing profiles must not overlap, overlap one another - they are butt-cut.
	To install the mirror in the frame, it must be reassembled into the component profile parts.
	To do this, the assembly screws are unscrewed. You can leave them in a slightly baited position.
	When dismantling the lower connecting units, only the assembly screws are unscrewed. Unscrew the wheels - not necessarily, they will not interfere.
	The mirror is placed on a flat, clean surface. Begin to frame it from the top frame. The frame profile is centered in relation to the insert, and then the mirror is raised slightly and a frame is put on it. The silicone sealant must fit tightly into the groove of the profile.
	The profile is neatly worn along the entire length. ..
	. .. to the opposite corner. It must be ensured that the centering of the profile relative to the mirror does not move.
	The glass is drilled in the profile with a slight tapping of the hand. Do not use any tool( and it's dangerous with glass!) - the elastic silicone must fully enter the groove as far as it will go. Kiyanku or rubber hammer may need to apply the case if a 10 mm DMA filler( MDF) is used.
	The operation is repeated on the opposite side - with the bottom border. First it is centered on the insert,. ..
	. .. and then tightly dressed and sown to the end.
	Go to the installation of vertical handle profiles. At the beginning, still on the floor, the profile is worn slightly on the insert with the seal.
	The mirror is then placed on the end, and the profile is gently punctured by a slight tapping along the entire length.
	It should sit evenly on the seal of the insert, until it stops. At the same time, ensure that the assembled assembly screws are in their channels of the upper and lower frame.
	You can tighten the assembly screws. The thread has already been cut before, so the operation is completely uncomplicated.
	When assembling the upper connectors, do not forget to replace the bracket with the rollers.
	The exact same sequence is maintained when the handle is installed from the opposite side.
	The final tightening of all connections is made - and our door is ready. It remains to install it on the guides.
	The door is carefully moved to the opening. Firstly, a long leaf is always installed on the rear rails of the profiles.
	The top of the door is gently guided so that the rollers enter the groove of the upper profile.
	The next step is to raise the sash so that the rollers are fully integrated into the profile.
	Then the fingers are lightly drowned by the spring loaded lower roller,. ..
	. .. the flap is again raised and fed away, ensuring that the roller is in the corresponding slide of the lower guide.
	A similar operation is performed on the other side of the flap being installed. Both rollers must fall into one guide slide. Similarly, then install the second leaf, but already in the near guide rails.
	You can proceed to the door adjustment. To do this, use a hex wrench, which rotate the adjusting screw. Clockwise rotation causes the roller to exit outward, that is, the raised corner of the leaf. Turning counterclockwise will cause the sash to fall.
	The adjustment is carried out until the required result is achieved: - the side handle posts should assume an exactly vertical position. - all door flaps should be at the same level from the lower guide profile.
Illustration	Brief description of the operation

Installation of the filling, final assembly, installation and adjustment of the door

Filling for the door is most often ordered - according to the calculated dimensions. Especially it concerns options when it is planned to apply a mirror or glass insert.

Filling panels made of particle board( MDF) 10 mm thick, of course, can be manufactured independently. However, with this approach, it should be borne in mind that the highest accuracy of marking should be ensured with the observance of right angles and evenness of the cut - otherwise the insert may or may not enter the prepared frame, or begin to warp it.

When using filling from chipboard( MDF), there are situations when sheets of material that have been exposed to high humidity conditions increase somewhat in thickness - instead of 10 mm they can have 10.5 or even all 11. This will create certain difficulties when assembling the door. It is best to cut a small chamfer, depth and width of 2-3 mm, on both sides of the panel, first along the perimeter of the insert.

The principal difference in a filling installation of different thicknesses is in the use of the respective seals. The type of silicone seal is chosen for the appropriate thickness of the insert - 4, 6 or 8 mm. Filling with a thickness of 10 mm in the seal does not need.

The following is an example of the final installation of a door with a mirror filling of 4 mm thickness.

In fact, the assembly and installation of the door - finished. The leaflets should easily move along the guides without applying much effort.

In conclusion, two more points should be considered:

• If you plan to glue the shlegel, then it is carried out after adjusting the doors. The Schlegel has a self-adhesive base, therefore it is not difficult to install it in the appropriate profile groove. At the same time, unsightly holes from assembly and adjusting screws will be hidden.

However, practice shows that over time the flare starts to peel off gradually along the edges of the profile. To avoid such "trouble", it is recommended to fix the edges of the shlegel with special clip-pegs.

So that the folding arm does not peel off at the edges, it is recommended to fix it additionally with a special clothespin

. Nothing has been said about the installation of the stopper. And this is a very useful addition that allows you to determine the limits of closing the leaf( so that it does not hit hard against the walls of the cabinet) and a clear fixed position in the closed state.

Installing the

sliding door stopper The installation of such a stopper is quite simple: it is simply inserted into the corresponding groove of the lower guide rail. The only thing that should not be forgotten - such an installation will be possible if access to the end of the guide is provided. Thus, the "rough" installation of the stopper is best done when preparing the lower guide to fix it on the floor. And already the exact adjustment can be made at the very end - it is easy to press the spring-loaded "antennae" from above and move the stopper to the desired position.

And at the end of the publication - a video that shows the assembly of the door for the cabinet with the combined filling and the installation of the jumper

Video: an example of door assembly for the

sliding door The author expresses the hope that after carefully reading this article-instruction from the home masterthere will be no unresolved issues on the self-installation of doors for the closet.