Aligning walls with plasterboard

Any owner of the apartment wants to her decoration looked neat. However, even expensive finishing material on curved walls will not look beautiful, and its acquisition will turn into a waste of money. Therefore, the straightness and even surface of the walls is a prerequisite for quality repairs. There are many ways to achieve the desired result, but perhaps the simplest of them can be called leveling the walls with gypsum board.

For example, to fix walls using plaster and beacons, you need to have certain skills and skill that come only with practical experience. And when working with plasterboard, it is enough to observe diligence, accuracy and accurately implement all technological recommendations. The process will go faster if you have all the necessary materials, elements and consumables for mounting the and and tools for work at hand.

Alas, even in panel houses, the walls are far from ideal in terms of evenness, so if you are undertaking capital repairs, they need to be put in order first. Moreover, drywall will help to solve other problems,

peculiar to multi-storey residential development. The speech goes about the very low degree of the insulation of the walls, and the practical lack of sound insulation between adjacent rooms and apartments.

Mounting drywall often helps make the walls more warm , organize effective barriers to spreading noise. And besides , gypsum boards not only align the walls in a vertical plane, but also make them smooth, and means any finish will look perfect on them.

Another one of the most important advantages of drywall is that, with a skilful approach and good design imagination, gives the opportunity to perform original wall constructions with the necessary niches, shelves, openings and , etc. .

Alignment using this material can be carried out in two ways - by gluing the sheets directly to uneven wall surfaces, or by fastening the gypsum card to crate from a metal zinc-plated profile or from wooden beams( rails).

In any case , you need to start with the preparation of all required for the work of materials and auxiliary elements, checking the readiness of the necessary construction tools.

Materials and tools

As already mentioned, there are several ways to install drywall on - wall to the building adhesive and crate .It is clear that in each case requires its list of building materials and consumables. However, in order not to repeat, we list them in one list - choose from the necessary from the when changing this or that technology will not be difficult.

Materials

So, the materials for wall alignment will require:

1 - Drywall sheets that need to be purchased with a margin of 15% of the total area of ​​the walls to be covered.

Drywall is a common name. It is divided into four type , and it should be selected depending on where it will be installed. Each type has its own color marking, which speaks about the material characteristics:

- Conventional drywall sheets( GCR) have a light grayish color . they are used for leveling walls of , erection of wall or ceiling structures in rooms with a normal humidity level.

- GKVV - is a moisture-resistant material for installation in bathroom rooms. Its sheets have a pronounced greenish shade.

- GKLO - fireproof gypsum board. Such material is used for wall covering near stoves and fireplaces. It is distinguished by the surface painted with warm pink tones.

- GKVVO - This type of drywall combines the properties of with a moisture - and a heat resistant material. It can be used for wall covering in bath rooms or in boiler rooms. A characteristic feature of sheets is the dark blue or dark gray color.

There can be different drywall and its size - for this account there are certain standards:

Type of drywall	Thickness in mm	Width in mm	Sheet length in mm
GKL	8,0;9.5;12.5;14;16	1200	2000 to 4000
18 and more	600
GKVV	10;12.5;14;16	1200
GKLO	12,5;14;16	600
GKLVO	12.5;14;16	1200

What is required besides, in fact, drywall:

2 - Gypsum building glue( dry mix) - for wall alignment without using crate .

3 - Primer for surface treatment of the wall before installation of drywall.

4 - Sealant for sealing seams.

5 - Reinforcing mesh or tape.

6 - Metal galvanized profile for crate of , if it will be used. They may require special hangers, connectors and , such as .

7 - Screws for assembling the construction of the crate and for fixing the GKL to the guides, dowels for fixing the beams or profiles to the concrete or brick wall.

8 - Insulation material - if it is planned to carry out thermal and soundproof works.

9 - Steam insulation film - in those cases if a heater is used.

Tools

Tools should be prepared:

• Medium width spatula for applying glue and putty. Sometimes you may need an toothed spatula.
• Sharp construction knife for cutting gypsum board.
• Electric drill and nozzle mixer.
• Paint roller, brush.
• Capacity for kneading adhesive.
• Scissors for metal - for cutting galvanized profiles.
• Pliers for joining metal profiles or rivet .
• Roulette, folding meter, level, plumb bob, rule, other necessary measuring and marking tools and devices.
• Rotary hammer.
• Screwdriver .
• Rule.
• The - cutter blade for fast chamfering from gypsum boards is a good helper.

Aligning the wall surface with

gypsum board bonding This mounting method is the most light of the existing ones, but it can be used only if the wall does not have significant deformation and large irregularities. Usually, it is customary to resort to such technology if the differences in level lie in the range of 5 ÷ 10 mm, and the height of the room does not exceed t t rex meters.

Not this variant will approach and for those rooms where it is absolutely necessary to make noise insulation installation and( or) to perform wall insulation - in this case the technology with installation of of the crate will be in demand.

Adhesive plasterboard on wall is made only when the task is to level the surface to the ideal, quickly and without extra costs to create a smooth basis for further finishing work.

The whole process of this work can be divided into two stages:

Preparing the surface of the wall

• Preparatory activities begin with cleaning the walls from old wallpaper and exfoliated plaster. Cleaning is carried out with a spatula.

• If the brick wall is leveled, then with it it is necessary to remove the frozen solution in the seams, which forms the tubercles, since they can prevent the installation of sheets. These irregularities are removed with a spatula or hammered off.
• Further, it is recommended to wall with brush to remove dust or residues of dry cement-sand mortar.
• After this, it is worth to measure the flatness of the surface with the help of plummet and the building level. If there are strong potholes in some parts of the wall, you can set the "-" beacons in these places by screwing the screws and putting their hat on the general level.

Self-tapping screws will become the reinforcement base for slides of building adhesives or other hardening gypsum mortar. Their sprinkled from above, leveled on the hats and left to dry. After drying, these slides will provide a good gypsum board support, since under it there will be no deep voids.

• Further, the surface of the wall needs to be well primed, sometimes this process ss pr is carried in two - three layer, with each subsequent applied after the previous drying out. Primer is applied with a paint roller, and in difficult places( for example, in corners or narrow niches) it is necessary to use brush.

Priming composition, impregnating the surface, will provide good adhesion for building adhesives, walls and sheets of plasterboard, which will favorably affect the quality and speed of installation.

Gluing of drywall

Having finished preliminary works, it is possible to pass to the second stage of installation:

• First of all it is necessary to prepare a glutinous solution. In the prepared tank water is poured in the right amount and in it is poured dry construction mixture with constant mixing of the composition with a nozzle-mixer mounted on the drill.

The correct proportions of dry glue and water are indicated on the packaging of any building staff and it is recommended clearly follow to all recommendations of the manufacturer to get the desired result. It is necessary to pay attention also to the "viability" of the composition indicated in the same place, since the mixtures on a gypsum base are set and dry very quickly, and therefore only the quantity of solution that is guaranteed to be produced within the specified time interval should be kneaded.

• The finished solution is applied to the drywall sheet by hills at a distance from each other of about 150 ÷ ​​200 mm, spreads a little, and then the sheet is installed to the wall and gently pressed.

The master has about ten minutes, during which it is possible to accurately align the vertical sheet and but direction, using the building level. In order for to make adjustments, pressure is applied to пр pr avil or accurate tapping, so, so that does not damage the outer surface of the GCR.

• In the same way, the other sheets are also glued, which are aligned to the first. All sheets are installed close to each other.
• Then you need to give the glue a good dry, this process does not take a lot of time, but it is better to leave the drywalled walls for a day.
• Next, the processing of the joints of sheets with a primer, and after it has dried, a thin layer of putty is applied. Above it , directly on the raw composition, is pasted reinforcing tape or mesh-serpyanka.

You can purchase self-adhesive mesh-serpyanku. Its is glued directly onto the cardboard surface of KGL , and then the process is started with the sewing joints.

• All joints on top of are puttyped with the starting composition directly through the reinforcing material. After drying, the seams are gently rubbed and, if necessary, can be corrected with the finishing putty to a perfectly smooth condition.

Video: installation of gypsum boards on the wall using adhesive

Aligning the walls by fastening the drywall onto the frame

This method is indispensable in case the wall needs to be insulated or create noise-absorbing barrier. The frame for gypsum board can be made of wooden bars or metal galvanized profiles.

• Walls to which will be mounted on the lining, must necessarily be primed special formulations of deep penetration, possessing antiseptic qualities. It is impossible to suppose that a favorable environment for the development of any parasitic microflora( mold, fungus and , etc. .) Or colonies of domestic insects was created in the cavity formed under the layer of gypsum plasterboard.
• After drying of the primer, markings are made on the wall to secure the metal or wooden frame guides.

The vertical guides must be installed at a distance of exactly 600 mm from each other( the distance must be measured - at the center of the profiles).The wall is drawn using a long rule, carefully checking the verticality of the lines with a level or plumb line.

• The next step is to check the verticality of the wall surface itself to determine where it will be necessary to install the suspensions, which will allow the rail to be advanced to the desired distance.

• Next, in the lower and upper parts of the wall, you need to fix the horizontal profiles in which the vertical guides will be installed. crates of the .Sometimes it makes sense to fix them to the floor and ceiling. These two guides should be located strictly opposite the each other - this is necessarily controlled by a plumb. But in the future, this approach will make it easier for to install vertical racks - the direction will be already set, and the hangers, screwed to the wall and to the vertical profiles, will give rigidity to the structure.

• . Further, on vertical marked lines on the wall, at a distance of approximately one meter apart, fixed to the dowels of the suspension. Vertical racks are then installed, their verticality in both planes is checked, and they are immediately screwed with screws in the suspensions in the desired position.

To the upper and lower horizontal profiles, the vertical screws are screwed or fixed with them using special mites or using rivet of .

• In case the wall is very high, it is possible that will have between vertical profiles to fix the transverse horizontal jumpers - , they will give design the reliability of and rigidity of .To install them with metal scissors, the fragment is produced, equal in length to the distance between the profiles plus two of their widths.

Then, in of the middle part of this fragment distance is measured, equal to interval between vertical profiles, since it must be fixed in one plane with the whole structure.

At the corners on the edges of this cross-cut, cuts are made on the labeled depth. The whole leaves only the front part of the profile, and the side shelves on the cut section are bent at a right angle - they must enter the frame. Fasten them with the help of ticks, rivet of or self-tapping screws.

racks Usually, these crosspieces are placed where horizontal joints between two sheets( fragments) are placed one above the other. In this case, the center of the jumper should be precisely aligned with the place of the planned junction.

• If the walls are more or less even, but they simply need to be insulated or add additional soundproofing qualities, then the or profiled can be fastened directly to the wall plane without the use of hangers.
• Next, a thermal insulation material is installed between profiles. Most often, mineral wool is used for this, since it is elastic and well covers all the gaps between the profiles without leaving gaps along the guides. If the between the wall and has been formed, the recommended distance for the crate is to be laid in two layers of the - . The thickness of the first layer is selected depending on the gap formed between the wall and the skeleton, and the thickness of the second one should be equal to the width of the metal profile orwooden bar.

• Insulation is recommended to close the vapor barrier with .It is necessary to ensure that the microscopic dust from the heater does not get into the rooms, but at the same time the whole structure was able to "breathe".This is important - inside such a wall in the thickness of the insulation should not accumulate and condense water vapor - moisture should have a free outlet for evaporation within the framework of the 's general level.

The easiest way is to fix the vapor barrier on the wooden frame - with the help of staples that are easily driven by a construction stapler. But it is possible to glue on its and on the metal profile, using two-side joiner tape.

. When the frame is ready, the wall is insulated, the vapor barrier is fixed, you can proceed to the installation of drywall.

• Two adjacent butt-end sheets are attached to one vertical profile. They are fixed with the help of special screws, which with ease of will sew both the metal profile and wooden crate .The heads of the screws should be slightly light, approximately for 1 ÷ 1.5 mm, "drown" in the GCR, forming a small hole.

• If the height of the drywall is not enough to cover the entire plane of the wall, then a piece of the necessary length and width is measured from the solid sheet and then cut off next to the already installed one. As already mentioned, here, most likely, you need to fix a vertical crossbar between the vertical profiles.

• When cutting gypsum cardboard, an even edge is formed, without the factory chamfer. If it gets to the junction with another sheet( fragment) of gypsum board, but in this form it can not be left out - it will be difficult, practically - it is impossible to qualitatively to seal seam.

A chamfer can be made using a special planer with a bevelled blade. He is sure to have a master in the plasterboard industry on a professional level. But for a small volume the work of a home master does not need to specifically purchase such a tool - the chamfer can be accurately made with a knife, by cutting corners along the edges of the cut looking toward the room, trying not to break the linear dimensions of the workpiece.

• The seams between the drywall sheets are treated with a primer, and then are glued with reinforcing mesh or tape, and then gently rubs the level with the overall surface. Simultaneously, with filler fill with filler and all the wells from the self-tapping screws. If this is not done, the screws will begin to oxidize over time, and, one way or another, will make itself felt by small rusty specks that can break through even the decorative finish of the wall surface.

• reinforcing banding tape. Primary putty layer is wiped, peeled with grater with abrasive mesh( paper).And then a thin layer of finishing putty is applied to the same places, which also as the drying of the undergoes the thorough grinding.

For some types of finishing this will be enough, for others the entire surface of the plasterboard wall is plastered completely, with further polishing and, sometimes, even polishing.

Video: gypsum plasterboard leveling using the frame structure

Whatever you say, the whole process of leveling the walls with - drywall work is quite clean and fleeting, not going to any comparison with the use of traditional "wet" plaster. And this means that both the leveling and cleaning of the premises after the completion of work will pass quickly and without problems. Such a wall will serve no less than a wall, plastered in the usual way, if it is not subject to strong impact mechanical impact.

A main , as you can see from the above instructions, these jobs are not very complicated, and even the newbuilder-builder , which takes the first steps in the field of home repair, should be feasible.