Repair mixer in the kitchen with their own hands

Of all installed plumbing fixtures and fixtures in the category most commonly used, the is for sure , it is possible to classify the kitchen mixer. Cooking food, washing dishes, fruits or vegetables, taking water for drinking or boiling, holding wet cleanings in the kitchen, a lot of other small economic needs - and it all falls to it. It is not surprising that sooner or later a moment comes when the stored operational resources of even the most high-quality mixer are exhausted, and in its work there are some or other problems. The probability of this situation will be , if in its time for reasons of economy, an inexpensive mixer of questionable quality was purchased, and the water coming from the mains is not clean, or the condition of the water pipes does not stand up to any criticism.

The malfunction of the mixer immediately causes a lot of unpleasant problems that significantly complicate the normal functioning of the kitchen. What should I do to call a plumber or run a new device? Do not rush - these are extreme measures, but first you can try to carry out a remodeling

nt cm in the kitchen with your own hands. As practice shows, the overwhelming majority of the most common faults lends itself to repair. And in the process of repairing a mixer, there are usually no operations of such a high level of complexity that they would not be available for independent fulfillment of the average owner of the apartment.

In than faults of mixer

What obvious and not very signs will tell the owner that the state of the kitchenmixer should be addressed right up?

• Under the sink in the kitchen there are always traces of dampness, and sometimes even a puddle accumulates. Such problems are the most dangerous, since , often , notice them not immediately, and the "signal" often comes from neighbors from below, who have a damp spot on the flow.

. Of course, the reason is more likely the failure of the drainage system or the poor sealing of the sink in the countertop.

How to fix problems with out of the kitchen sink?

Emergency situations in the drain system - is quite common phenomenon, especially in the kitchen. What to do if the is leaking or is clogged - read the special publication of our portal.

However, if the siphon is absolutely dry, and the gaps around the perimeter of the sink are properly sealed, then you should look for leaks in the water inlet - on the hoses themselves, at their connection with the water pipes or at the inlet to the mixer itself. Another one possible cause - poor fit or displacement of the gasket between the mixer and the sink.

• The incessant drops or trickle of water from from to the when the mixer itself is in the "closed" position. This is a clear sign of wear of seals or ceramic parts of valve part .
• A standing puddle of water near the mixer body. Possible causes are cracks in the casing or wear of the O-rings in the swivel block spout .
• Water constantly, in any position of the mixer, leaks from under the valves or the adjusting lever. This may be due to the wear of the stuffing boxes on the cocks, the lack of tightening the threaded couplings( nuts), cracks in the casing, the failure of the cartridge.
• The rotation of the valves or the movement of the lever-handle are difficult, uneven, there are difficulties with precise adjustment of the head and water temperature. This can be caused by the formation of lime , the ingress of solid particles into rubbing parts, the wear of mechanical components or their complete failure.
• Insufficient pressure, at all that , that no such problem in other parts of the draw in the apartment( house).The reasons may be clogging the nozzle of the aerator, by reducing the lumen of the internal channels of the mixer, pinched gaskets on the piping, poor permeability of pipes or flexible hoses.
• Similar causes can cause severe noise or vibration at normal, seemingly high pressure water.

The order and features of the receptions for self-troubleshooting, depending on the type of mixer, can vary significantly. It is important to note the following - the can be repaired by the overwhelming majority of typical models. However, if installed sophisticated modern device with thermostatic control or even with electronic touch controls, then take the liberty of removing and finding the causes of abnormal operation is still not recommended, especially when mixer still under warranty. In this situation, it is still more reasonable to find a truly qualified specialist( most plumbers in ads, too, in this question hardly will help), or contact the customer service.

The author hopes that this publication will help to understand the nonspecialists in the issues of mixer device and repair, evaluate their strengths and to take the right decision about the possibility of independent work.

Problems under the sink

As mentioned above, the constant dampness or puddles under the sink may be a consequence of the emergency condition of the piping from the water pipes to the mixer.

To verify the correctness of such an assumption, it is necessary to close the faucet, allow the water to freely leave the sink, so to in Sipho not been overpressure. There should be no moisture on the table top around the sink. Then taken rag and wiped dry with a siphon hose liner, all the fittings - fittings, nuts, mufty. Spustya few minutes you can be visually and on touch to check - whether the signs were made by under pressure in the mains water network.

• Particular attention to the connection points of the hoses to the water supply system - leakage often occurs here due to corrosion of the edge of the threaded tip of the old steel pipe.

If this is the case, then the best option is to reconstruct the domestic water supply network - replacing the with its with polypropylene or metal-plastic. But this is a large-scale event, and in order to quickly eliminate the leak, it is necessary to bring this connecting node in relative order.

By the way, in the figure above, the wrong connection of the flexible hose to the steel pipe is shown at the root."Packing" with the help of FUM tape or pakli is absolutely unnecessary. In the hose nut there must be a gasket, which, when tightly attached to the pipe end, completely prevents the water from escaping. But the rewind can even seriously prevent the normal compaction of this connection.

It is necessary to check whether the nut is tightened tightly, if it has turned away. However, it is impossible to tighten its with great efforts at - it is possible to squeeze the gasket, and even will leak even more.

If the brace does not help, it closes the common tap of water supply to the apartment, we unscrew the nut completely, drains the remaining water into the inserted basin and inspect the end of the pipe. If its edge is uneven, touched by corrosion, then there will not be a good seal with a hose. In this case, the best way is to pack it onto the thread( naturally, using FUM , or better - a pakli with a special paste like "Unipac" ) a factory-made extension adapter whose edge fits perfectly to the hose laying.

Extension Adapter The sealing material is tightly wound around the threads of the threaded part of the pipe in a clockwise direction. Then the adapter is wound and tightened tightly with the lockshield or gas wrench. Now you can re-connect the hose, tighten the nut with a moderate effort, open the water supply and check if there is leakage. Most likely, everything will be fine.

• adapters The second option is that the connections are dry, but the appearance of water on the braid of the hose is clearly felt. The reason is rather common - alas, the quality of the hoses is very often low. Sometimes, the rubber tube located inside the breaks out, and it happens - I give t t of the river and metal heads, , especially if they are made of silumin from .

In this case, do not wait for the development of the problem, and immediately change the liner to a new one. A small leakage of can quite suddenly turn into a full hose break with all the clear catastrophic consequences.

will most likely need to temporarily remove the mixer - remove the old hoses and tighten the new nipples on the bottom of the device without dismantling it - it's extremely difficult, and in many models it's simply impossible.

For dismantling the mixer, it is clear that the cold water and hot water supply valves are first closed, the pressure is relieved, then they are disconnected from the t both both flexible hoses. Further actions depend on the type of attachment of the mixer. It is not difficult to understand this.

- The fastening scheme with studs( one or two) which is screwed from below into the case with the mixer is very common, and the nuts pressing the horseshoe plate with a rubber or polymer backing to the underside of the sink.

It is necessary to loosen and twist the nuts from the studs( sometimes the hairpin itself is unscrewed during dismantling), and then pull the mixer up. For nuts, a 10-key is usually used, but one must be prepared for the fact that in practice nuts are encountered for 11 or even 9.

After removing the mixer, it is fashionable to immediately check the condition of the gasket ring between the body and the sink. Its unsatisfactory condition often causes the leakage from the surface of the sink down, through the tap hole for the mixer. If the gasket is deformed, you should purchase a new one( shown in the picture with an arrow).

The studs usually have a slot for a straight or shaped screwdriver. But it is not necessary to rely heavily on them when dismantling - in order to unscrew the fastener, it will still be necessary to use a wrench to force it. The screwdriver can will use when re-assembling the mixer - it will be more convenient to heal the studs themselves in the case with the mixer.

- Another type of fastening - itself lower part of the mixer has a cylindrical threaded portion, which is inserted into the receiving hole cleaning, and then twists powerful bottom nut, securely fixing device.

By the way, this mixer design sometimes allows you to unscrew the hoses without even having to dismantle the device itself. But it will not be easy to accomplish this.

Imagine working in a very cramped space - under the kitchen sink, where it is almost impossible to take a comfortable position to get the tool and apply sufficient effort. And if at the connection hoses still was leaking, it is often possible to meet all sad picture when all nuts are coated with oxide and lime raid, and immediately the force can not be the key.

Therefore, many masters advise you to remove the sink for dismantling and re-installing the kitchen faucet. This is usually not difficult - only thus does not forget to disconnect the corrugated drain pipe from the sewerage pipe.

Another one "plus" of this approach - it is possible to "refresh" the new hermetic seal between the sink and the worktop to fully upon completion of work to eliminate the likelihood of moisture down. Well, the process of dismantling and installing the mixer will be simpler, and much better.

Released hoses can not be repaired or repaired - just a replacement! And when choosing a new connector, there can be several options:

- Same, but only high-quality hoses in flexible metal braid .It is necessary to measure the required length so that they are not "tight", but also do not hang with excessive loops. On a pair of hose fittings for connection to the mixer should be of different lengths - this will facilitate the installation.

- More reliable variant - modern corrugated hoses made of stainless steel. They are more hard , and working with them is somewhat more complicated. But on the durability and reliability they significantly benefit.

- Some masters prefer rigid piping made of metal-plastic pipes. To do this, there are special fittings with fittings for switching to the appropriate pipe. To deliver it is necessary more longly, but for this site it will already be possible to not worry any more.

The order of the mixer back installation depends on its design.

- If it is fixed on the stud, the pipes are passed through the mounting hole cleaning, they initially worn annular gasket buries junction mixer and washing, and then screwed into the fitting socket housing. It will be more convenient to first tighten the short fitting, and then - long. The fittings have their own sealing rings, but still experts advise making a small rewind on the thread - for reliability .

Then the studs are healed, the mixer is installed in the socket, the gasket and the horseshoe strip are put on the bottom. Now you only tighten the nut tight, not forgetting to keep an eye on centering device for center bore and for how laid down -ring gasket.

- If the mixer design assumes its installation on the nut, then the fitting should be inserted and screwed in after fixing the device on the sink.

- is also received if is planned to be rigid metal-plastic piping. In this case, the curved fitting with the fitting is first screwed in, and then straight.

If everything is connected, then you can install the washer in place, not forgetting the sealing of the gap between it and the table top.

Proper installation of the mixer - the key to its long-term operation

For more information on the nuances of the installation kitchen mixer can be read , read the special publication of our portal.

And still one piece of advice to finish with the "bottom" problems. If the gives a preference for flexible hoses, the installation of safety valves such as "Aqua-stop" is a very reasonable solution. They are packed on water pipes( you can replace the of the with the most protruding extension cords), and they are already connected to the hoses.

case where there was ng Sun e same « rvanet », the valve immediately block the flow of water and prevent the flood. It's probably worth spending a little more for providing security.

Well and now we will pass to consideration of malfunctions with the mixer itself.

problems above - troubleshoot mixers

If obviously , that the mixer operates not as required of him oozing water, it does not regulate the pressure and temperature, flywheels or lever are rotated with difficulty or, conversely, too easy, is not blocking the current water, then the problem should be sought in the device itself.

general order problems - water seeping through mixer

The first reason - the defect

body - If valves are working properly, but mixer body visible permanent streaks of water, it can be assumed that the body has cracked with high probability. It can be almost invisible to the eye, but that's enough water. The reason may lie in the poor-quality product performance in use in the manufacture of a brittle and amenable metal corrosion - silumin, with excessive constriction nuts or cranes - may break from this seat, a mechanical failure of the device.

You need to carefully examine the case using a magnifying glass - usually this gives the result. And if a crack is found, then such a mixer can be considered practically unfit for further use. Embedding crack any compositions, including "cold welding" if they give the result, but for a very short time and with no guarantee that will happen more serious accident while owners will not be home. Best of all - do not take risks, but go for a new mixer.

Choice of kitchen faucet - task responsible

If circumstances force you to purchase a new mixer, try not to repeat the old mistakes and get a really high-quality device. Tips for choosing a mixer for the kitchen - in a special publication of our portal.

The second cause of leakage is the wear of the seals in the swivel block spout .

Kitchen mixers, as a rule, always have a spout that can be rotated around a vertical axis. It is understood that with prolonged operation, the seals gradually wear out and begin to let the pressurized water out of the housing outward.

This problem is solved by in the replacement of gaskets( cuffs).And the order of work depends on the mixer model.

The easiest way to do this is remo nt cm of the tester with spout located on top and attached to the casing with a nut.

Carefully to avoid damaging the outer cover, use the adjustable wrench to loosen the nut, unscrew it, and spout ( or as else it is called - gander) gently lifted up.

On the bottom cylindrical part in special grooves are rubber rings-gaskets - one or two( shown by red arrows).Above, just below the nut is usually placed more one ring - plastic( blue arrows).It is usually split, and does not take a direct part in the process of sealing the hinge - it rather acts as a centering, locking, and in a certain measure performs more and the function of "sliding bearing".

If this part was leaking, and itself spout was dangling, then you should change all the gaskets since they definitely were developed. Including the replacement of the plastic split ring.

These parts, literally , "penny", and they are easy to find in any sanitary ware shop. It is recommended to take with you the removed spout in order to accurately pick up the gaskets of the desired diameter.

Before reassembly, parts must be cleaned of traces of lime plaque or rust. When putting rubber bands on the shank spout should be careful not to break them. To make it easier to work, you can easily smear the surface with silicone grease. The rings should fit tightly into their grooves. Cutting plastic ring to put and is not at all difficult .

After the new gaskets are put on, the spout can be put in place. But first you need to wipe the landing nest inside thoroughly with a soft cloth - there may be calcareous or corrosive growths. After cleaning, the shank is progressive, with defined by the force, but gently slides into the socket until the stop, and then the nut is twisted. Then you can check and move spill left-right , and the absence leakage when starting the water.

The situation is somewhat more complicated if the leakage of is from the joints of the turntable spout in single-lever mixers( the typical leakage point is shown by the arrows in the figure).

Removing this defect will require disassembly of the entire appliance, which will be described below.

Problems in the valve mechanism of the mixer

The most common problems are in the operation of valves that regulate the supply of water to the mixing chamber. These breakdowns are felt by the leakage through the vent or of the upper part of the mixer, the inability to completely block the water, the difficulty of rotating the flywheels or moving the lever, the unsatisfactory mixing of hot and cold currents. Elimination of defects completely depends on the design of the mixer - there are many options here.

Repair works with a two-vent faucet

The figure shows the circuit diagram of the device of most two-ventilated mixers.

In the case( item 1) there are three holes-jacks .The spout( item 2) is installed in the central one, which we have already dealt with above. On the left and right of the jacks of the are screwed the crane-axle boxes( item 3) of this or that design - they are responsible for the supply and shutdown of water to the mixing chamber. Rotation on them is transmitted through decorative flywheels( item 4).These flywheels are fixed to the valve stem with a screw( key 5), the head of which is closed with a protective cap( 6), which performs the as an and the role of the color indicator of cold or hot water.

If the does not have on the body of the mixers, then all the problems that arise are related to the or other defect of the crane-axle. Some of them can be tried by themselves, and others will require the replacement of this assembly.

First of all, it is necessary to unscrew the crane-axle boxes to determine their type.

For this, first, a protective plastic cap( with some models it can be on the thread) is neatly pricked with a knife - then it is carefully unscrewed).

Then, the with the screwdriver is loosened with the screw and the handwheel is gently removed from the valve stem by the forward movement.

This opens the access to the hexagon of the crane, through which the can be unscrewed from the socket of the .Sometimes the behind the handwheel is located still and a decorative cap that hides the faucet completely. It must be carefully unscrewed - usually for this effort is enough hands.

socket After this, the crane-axle itself is unscrewed by the adjustable wrench. Right now, we should revise it.

The axle cranes can be of two types - with a translationally moving rubber gasket-latch, or with ceramic plates. It is easy to distinguish them even with the mixer assembled - the first type requires several turns of the flywheel from the to the closed position to the closed one, and the second one is limited to one turn, half, and sometimes even a quarter.

A box of both types can have both common problems and specific problems. Consider on the row.

• The figure shows the of the with a rubber latch, which attaches to the forward motion when the handwheel rotates. Moving downwards, the gate closes the channel of water supply from the feeder to the mixing chamber. Conversely, the higher the gasket rises, the greater the "window" for the passage of water.

The arrows show the most vulnerable places where leaks most often occur.

1 - wear of the gasket on the valve itself leads to the impossibility of the completely shut off the flow of water into the spout of .Usually this happens either from long-term operation, or with strong contamination of water. Hard particles do not allow the gasket to completely cut off the channel, the user naturally tries the more to tighten the crane more, thereby pressing these solid inclusions into the rubber. As a result, the of is a constant leakage. The output in given by is simple - replace the gasket with a new one.

The elastic band itself is held on the rod with a screw( for a screwdriver or as in the picture - with hexagon head), and circumferentially protected from by the metal rim.

- Loosen the locking screw.

is removed. - Then the rubber gasket is pierced with a thin with a screwdriver or with a knife and removed from the shell.

gasket is removed. - The new is replaced by a gasket and replaced with a screw.

- After that it is possible to install the crane-axle in place.

2 - wear of the rubber sealing ring leads to water leaking through the threaded connection of the mixer body and the crane-axle box with a large head of open water. It happens, this is not often, but it is eliminated quite easily - by replacing the ringlet. Ave that nobody should listen to, and in no case did not conduct a "wrapping" edge on to FUM-tape or tow - usually this extreme leads to the fact that the socket Daye t t reschinu andthen the entire mixer can only be thrown out.

3 and 4 - wear of internal seals of the crane-axle box. This is accompanied by leakage of water in the area of ​​the rod, near the flywheel. In this case, the kinematic mechanics zm cr also usually suffers ana - it starts to seize, it is difficult to scroll and .The optimal solution is a complete replacement of the crane-axle box. There are, of course, certain recovery technologies - stuffing the new stuffing box, boring and grinding the screw gear. However, it is, firstly, possible is not standard on all models, and secondly - even the most quality head parts are not that expensive to resort to such complicated recovery efforts.

The 2 drawback is equally inherent in the axles with the ceramic plate valve, which will now speak about .

• The boules with a ceramic valve are arranged by the differently.

The blue arrows show fixed parts, the green ones indicate moving parts.

1- the case in which the whole mechanism is assembled. On the , the is a threaded part for screwing into the mixer socket.

2 - swivel stem with its own sealing rings. Rotation from the rod is transferred to the on the movable ceramic plate( key 3).At this figure it is not visible, but in the assembled state between the plunger and the body is placed in the upper part fluoroplastic gasket playing the role of a thrust sliding bearing.

The second ceramic plate( pos.4) is fixedly installed in the lower part of the housing. In assembled form it is tight priterta to mobile. Rotating the rod leads to the combination of figured cutouts( windows) on the plates - so the current of water opens. Depending on the area of ​​overlapping, the head becomes larger or smaller. In the closed state of the crane . windows are in diametrically opposite position .

When installed in the mixer, the bottom of the bumper fits snugly against the circular feed channel behind the ring silicone gasket( key 5).

In the assembled bush form is retained locking bracket( key 6.) Or washer ( depending on the model -. In a rotary rod for this retainer is made a special groove There latches in the form of a small threaded rod with slot under screwdriver

for repair.head parts of similar design can be found special repair kits - importantly, to fit the particular model What could be the reasons for malfunctioning of the head parts:

and -. wear or deformation of the silicone sleeve bottom water in the closed position of the crane continues to trickle a spout must be replaced

b -.. wear of the sealing ring at the connection of the crane and the mixer( precisely also , ason the valve with a rubber latch.)

in - one of the most common reasons is the development of fluoroplastic plate. Violated tight fitting of friction parts( ceramic plates) to each other, and when closed, the water does not completely overlap. The defect is easily checked - if, with the sucking water, press the axle of the axle box from above, then the leak stops. Eliminate by replacing the fluoroplastic ring with a new one.

g - two O-rings on the rod prevent water from flowing out of the housing upwards. Wear will make itself felt by leaking water in the flywheel area. To be replaced.

d - abrasive wear of adjacent surfaces of ceramic plates. This occurs infrequently - plumbers claim that the ceramic parts "leave last."A possible cause is highly contaminated water with solid inclusions. The does not hold water, it rotates unevenly, with effort. If there are plates in the repair kit, then it is also easy to change them.

process of repair of the bulkhead and head parts shown in detail in the video:

Video: how to repair ceramic head parts

Well, in that case, if we find the necessary set failed - have to change the head parts completely.

If you need to replace the crane-axle box, then to purchase a new one, it's best to take it to the store with it dismantled. There are important landing thread diameter, the length of the assembly of the entire assembly, and other constructional features ( e.g., the threads for mounting a decorative cap top) and the like .If desired, you can replace the valves with a rubber latch on the "ceramic" and vice versa. And still one moment - to select the axle box in the store it is desirable to take and the flywheel( lamb).It happens that the splines of the stem of the new box do not coincide with the old flywheel.

Before reassembling the crane must be carefully wipe with a clean cloth bearing seat - there should not be fine dust, lime plaque - anything that can interfere with the normal screwing and tight fit pads.

Do not use excessive force when installing a new box - you can damage the casing from the mixer or squeeze the gaskets. It is best to do so - when the water supply is closed, the crane is screwed into the socket up to the by the arm effort. Then the feed is opened, and the crane gently swings the with the key until the water stops coming out from under it. Installation

can then be put in place a decorative cap( if provided), a flywheel, locking screw and close the opening flap corresponding color.

After performing these actions, the two-valve mixer should function normally.

repair single-lever mixer with ceramic cartridge

If problems arose with mixer, made by single-lever scheme, there may be two completely different options .So, the device can have a valve device in the form of a cylindrical cartridge with ceramic plates inside, or a spherical switch of water flows.

To begin with, consider the option with a cartridge.

problem gives felt the impossibility of overlapping flow of of Liwa when fully lowered arm, bleed water through've px see esitelya overly easy or contrary , difficult lever movement with poor qualitymixing.

Optimal output - replacement of the cartridge with a new one. Do it yourself - it's not as difficult as it might seem initially.

mixer schematic diagram showing a cartridge on at below:

1- metal case with with mixer.

2 - cartridge.

3 - clamping retaining nut holding the cartridge in the with respect to the pressed position in the housing. Usually it is buried from above with a decorative hood( item 4).

5 - the handle of the mixer, fixed on the plastic lever of the cartridge with a screw( item 6 )

7 - rotary spout. The tightness of this mobile unit is ensured by two ring gaskets( item 8), and the smoothness of the - stroke with PTFE rings( key 9) acting as sliding bearings.

10 - Flow aerator, placed on the end of spout .To seal its installation, a gasket( key 11) is used.

In order to replace the cartridge in the following order:

Illustration	Brief description of the operation
	in the figure - a set of tools that may be needed to replace the cartridge.
	The first thing to do is gently tamper with and remove the cover that closes the hole to access the fixing screw. Sometimes a plug and a screw, in some models, are located at the top of the handle - it's easy to determine. If the repair is performed without removing the mixer from the sink, it is recommended to close the drain hole - small parts are very "like" to fall into it.
	Try lighting the flashlight in the opened hole to determine if I have a fixing screw. There can be a straight screwdriver, a figure, or a hexagon. With a suitable wrench or screwdriver, this screw must be loosened. There may be surprises - it does not always give in at once, especially if water is flowing through the top of the mixer. It is not recommended to use brute force, as it is possible to break the splines, and eat to become a really big problem. It's best to try splashing the WD-40 screw and letting it "go away."
	After the screw is loose or twisted, the handle is carefully removed from the cartridge lever upwards.
	The next task is to unscrew the decorative hood. He usually gives in to the hand effort. If not, then you can try to build with a gas key or pliers, but only very "gently", trying not to scratch the coating and not to deform the thin metal.
	After removing the cover, the locking clamping nut will open.
	With a standard or regular size wrench, the nut is turned anti-clockwise. ..
	. .. and is pulled up, completely freeing the cartridge.
	The cartridge is now very easy to take out with your fingers, without resorting to any tool.
	Do not rush out the old cartridge, it will be needed to purchase a new one. The fact is that there are many models of different standards, differing in diameter, height, channel arrangement, etc. But on the model to find a new store - no labor.
	Before installing a new cartridge, it is necessary to carefully clean the cylindrical cavity inside the housing with a soft cloth - there should not remain a deposit of rust, calcareous deposits, small particles. Installing a new cartridge correctly is not difficult, since almost all models have alignment protrusions that must match the corresponding recesses in the housing.

Reassemble in reverse order. Again it is necessary to warn - do not exert excessive force when screwing the fixing nut, since it is fashionable to deform the cartridge body or the rubber seals that are at the bottom. It is best to give a small puff, then turn on the water supply and check if it enters the sides of the cartridge. If leakage is detected, gently tighten the nut until the leak stops.

Next - everything is clear: a decorative hood is twirled, the handle is fixed and fixed with a screw, the plug is put in place with the color indication of the hot and cold feed.

At once it is possible to stop and on already mentioned leak in the block rotary spill .Cartridge jd There is absolutely either with than , and the problem is caused by the wear of the O-rings( in the diagram above - item 8).In some models, cuffs are used instead of rings - this will be visible after disassembly.

To replace the mixer seals, the has to be disassembled more to remove the spout from the body. Variants can be different, depending on the mixer model. So, it happens that this assembly is removed upwards - the is locked by the with a special cylindrical coupling. But still it is often removed in the direction of connecting the supply hoses. For dismantling in this case, it is not possible to completely remove the mixer from the sink( as it is done - it was already told above).

• A ring-shaped lock nut will be visible from below. Its is unscrewed - under it fluoroplastic ring will be found.

• Carefully, to avoid damage, it is removed, and then the entire turn block is removed from the body down.
• So we got to gaskets( as shown in the diagram above) or cuffs( see picture below).

• are used for sealing. These seals have to be changed by , having acquired new ones in the store. At the same time, you can check the condition of the fluoroplastic rings from above and below - they may also have been heavily worn out.

Some masters practice rewinding to restore the sealing qualities of these seals. But the optimal solution will be a complete replacement.

Assembly is in the reverse order. Do not forget to install the PTFE ring from the top and bottom of the rotary block.

Repair of single-lever mixer with ball valve

Not all single-lever mixers have inside the above cartridge - many of them are equipped with a ball-shaped valve assembly. Typical diagram of the device of such display devices on :

Top:

Mixer handle( poses .1) fixed with a screw( poses .2), which is covered with a cap( position . 3 ) .

Below is a metal cap( key 4), which fixes the entire valve mechanism in the mixer body. Under it is a plastic cam with a shaped washer( key 5) - they limit the movement of the ball lever in the defined by the range. From the bottom, the washer has a dome shape and a rubber seal around the circumference - for a close fit to the ball.

The mixing bowl itself( item 6), hollow inside, has openings for the passage of water from the liner, and the outlet to the swing block .

The rubber seat saddles ( pos.7), , which constantly presses against its surface with springs( key 8), fit tightly to the bowl.

The mixer device is essentially no different from the one discussed above - the swivel block ( item 9) with grooves( key 10) under the o-rings( key 11).The entire structure is assembled in a brass body( key 12).An additional aerator( key 13) can also be located inside, which provides better mixing of water before the is fed into the spout.

Problems with spill will not be considered - they practically do not differ from , which has already been stated above. We will dwell only on the repair of the valve mechanism.

• Removing the handle of the mixer is almost the same. The only difference is that the lever on which the handle is attached is not a rectangular polymer, like a cartridge, but in the form of a metal pin with a groove for the fixing screw.
• For dismantling, first unscrew the top cover gently. It can have an external slot for the key grip, or in the upper inside the - four grooves. Of course, it would be better to use a special key. But if it's not there, then the hood is pinched from the spot, gently punching with the rugged into the slot screwdriver counter-clockwise. Another option - to get inside from the grooves round-bends.
• When the hood is removed, remove the cam and washer. With them, you can immediately remove any existing dirt or deposits with a soft cloth.
• Then remove the ball itself and carefully examine the entire valve part.

The reasons for the malfunction may be as follows:

• Pollution or wear of the upper dome washer( orange arrow).Occurs infrequently, usually eliminated by simple cleaning of the surface. Similarly, the spherical socket for the ball in the body itself is checked - it also needs to be cleaned.
• Ball wear( green arrow) - cracks, furrows and like . Eliminated only by replacement with a new one.
• Worn or deformed saddles valves( blue arrows) - they loosely adhere to the surface of the ball and begin to flow through the water. Eliminated by replacement with new ones.
• Weakening and sagging of springs( red arrows) - do not tightly press the of the saddles to the ball. Eliminated by replacement with new ones.

If the is purchased with an repair kit, then it is not difficult to repair it.

• The old valve seats are removed with a thin screwdriver. Then the springs are extracted in the same way.

• After thoroughly cleaning the mixer cavity, start assembling in reverse order.
• The springs are inserted into the new seats, and then this assembly is neatly packed into the socket up to the stop.
• A thin layer of silicone grease is applied to the cleaned surface of the ball. Then it is installed in the body, so that the restrictive protrusion on the body gets into the shaped groove on the ball.
• Next, the installs a plastic knot - a shaped dome washer and cam. It is difficult to make a mistake here, as there is a groove in the case, and a corresponding projection on the cam.
• The upper metal cap is brewed and screwed.
• It is put on the rod and the handle of the mixer is fixed with a screw.

This nt cm mixer with ball valve can be considered complete.

For clarity, disassembly and assembly of a mixer with a ball valve on video:

Video: disassembly of a mixer with a ball valve mechanism

Blockage of an

aerator. Another is one common failure in a mixer operation - a poor head with fully open valves. The problem is usually in the clogging of the flow aerator located at the tip of the spout .

Elimination of such a problem is very simple.

First you need to unscrew the aerator itself. He can even give in to the hand. If not - not scary, on the it has two slots for the key factory.

Inside, for sure , there will be a buildup of solid impurities that interfere with the free passage of water. They can be washed off, we send a powerful head from the back side of the net.

grids If such a measure does not help, you can disassemble the aerator by gently prying the plastic mesh up. Small particles could penetrate into the cavity of the device and clog the holes. I'll have to work with a needle or toothpick to clean them.

It often happens that the clogging of the becomes "fatal" and not lends itself to mechanical cleaning. There is nothing to do - the takes the removed aerator for the sample and gets a new one.

They are not so expensive, and you can afford a periodic replacement. But if such a situation arises often, it is worth considering that the quality of tap water is extremely low, it is oversaturated with solid inclusions, and requires the mandatory installation of at least mechanical filters.

This preventative measure will allow for a longer operation and the whole mixer as a whole - suspended particles will not have abrasive effects on rubber and silicone seals and on ceramic valves of the valve mechanism.