How to connect the boiler to the water supply

Contents of the article

• 1 Types of household boilers
  • 1.1 Direct heating boilers
  • 1.2 Indirect heating boilers
  • 1.3 Combined boilers
• 2 How to choose the right boiler
  • 2.1 Required capacity of the boiler water tank
  • 2.2 Nominal andthe maximum power of the water heater
  • 2.3 The dimensions of the water heater and its external layout
  • 2.4 Anticorrosive protection
  • 2.5 Types of heating elements
  • 2.6 Material for the construction of the storage tank of the boiler
  • 2.7 Water heating controllers
  • 2.8 Fame of the manufacturer
• 3 How to connect the boiler
  • 3.1 Mounting the boiler on the wall
  • 3.2 Cutting the boiler into the plumbing system of the apartment
  • 3.3 Video:on the plastic
  • 3.4 Special attention to the connection of the cold pipe
  • 3.5 Video: the importance of installing the safety valve
  • 3.6 Video: as installedThus, leaving "in brackets" flowing water heaters, as well as outdated and inconvenient solid "titans", let's pay attention to modern models of boilers. They can be divided into direct and indirect heating devices. And according to the type of energy source used, direct heating boilers are divided into gas and electric boilers. In addition, there are models that combine several principles of work.

    Direct Heating Boilers In this type of installations, the incoming energy carrier( electricity or natural gas) is consumed by the exclusively for hot water supply, without intermediate stages.

    Gas accumulator boiler

    Such a device does not have too much distribution - it is quite complicated in the installation, it requires obligatory coordination with the technical supervision bodies, it needs the construction of the smoke system of this or that type , suitable for ventilation to ensure normal combustion of gas. In a number of regions, an obligatory condition for the installation was the availability of a special device - a gas analyzer. All this does not add to their popularity with the owners of housing.

    However, , such boilers still "have the right to exist", but from the point of view of economy they, of course, surpass electrical ones.

    What is the gas storage boiler device:

    

    Diagram of gas boiler arrangement

    • Pos.1 - the container in which the hot water is heated and stored. The is fed by the through the pipe( item 5), and the fence through the pipe( item 6).The diagram is not shown, but the water tank has a rather thick outer casing with polyurethane foam insulation, which ensures a long-term preservation of the required temperature of the oxen.
    • The water tank has a common lower heat exchange wall( key 2) with a combustion chamber in which a gas burner is installed( key 3).In addition, the heat transfer occurs when hot combustion products pass through the central channel( item 9) before leaving the chimney( item 10 )
    • The control unit in the installed temperature sensor and thermostat( item 4) constantly monitors the water heating level,as necessary including or shutting off the gas supply to the burner( key 3).
    • The safety group( key 7) necessarily includes the emergency valve , which will release the overpressure, if suddenly the thermostat fails its task of maintaining the of a particular temperature.
    • To ensure that the tank walls do not overgrow with a scum, a magnesium anode is installed in the boiler( key 8).This material has a much lower electrical potential, so free ions dissolved in water salts will be deposited on it. These anodes are easy to change as needed.

    So, despite the excellent performance, these boilers did not become the "sales leaders", as they are difficult to install, and the cost is much higher than for conventional electric ones.

    Electric boiler

    This type of storage boiler is the most popular among the owners of housing. The installation of such a device does not require tedious reconciling procedures, significant alterations or construction and installation works. If there is an reliable power supply line, the installation of an electric boiler can probably be performed by any good owner who has a basic understanding of the production of plumbing work.

    

    Basic Diagram of the

    Electric Boiler How are electric boilers arranged? They can have a different layout, but the schematic still remains single:

    • The external housing of the boiler( item 1) can have this or that decoration. separates from the internal water tank( key 3) with a layer of polyurethane foam insulation( item 2).
    • Cold tap water is always fed to the bottom of the tank by a welded pipe( key 4).In order to avoid turbulent flows of liquid in the of the , the incoming water is distributed using a special diffuser( key 5).
    • Hot water intake, on the contrary, is always made from the top of the tank through the installed pipe( item 9 )
    • Heating of the water is carried out by means of electric heating elements( TANS ) of various types( item 7).
    • The assignment of the magnesium anode( item 6) has already been described above.
    • The temperature sensor( item 8) is connected by an electric circuit to an electronic or electromechanical thermostat, which provides heating of the water to the user-set temperature.

    This boiler operation diagram shows itself perfectly in practice, if the device is selected correctly, with taking into account the of the required power and of the volume. Electric boilers are manufactured in a large m m of the shape and size of the mold, they are compact enough, and main - have quite affordable price. Indirect heating boilers

    In those private houses( sometimes - and in urban apartments) where an autonomous closed water heating system with a single-circuit boiler is installed, indirect hot water boilers are often used for hot water supply. In these devices, water, which is used for household and hygienic needs( in other words - sanitary) receives heating not from direct heating, but from heat exchange with the heating circuit, according to , the heat transfer fluid( technical water or other liquid) circulates.

    The basic design of the indirect heating boiler is shown in the diagram:

    

    This is how an indirect heating boiler with

    coil heat exchanger is constructed External ( pos .1) ( pos . 2) and internal tank ( pos 3) - , all by analogy with a conventional direct heating boiler.

    A cold sanitary water flows into the tank through the nozzle( item 4), the flow of which is sprayed with a special bump stop( key 5).The hot sanitary water is taken from the nozzle at the top of the boiler( key 6).

    In addition, a circulation pipe is normally provided( key 7).A separate additional circuit is created, for example, through the heated towel rail , with a constant circulation of hot water. This achieves two goals: firstly, in the hot water pipe there is always a hot water of approximately one temperature;and the in the - of the second , such a scheme somewhat simplifies a rather complicated system of maintaining the desired temperature of heating the sanitary water.

    Connectors pos. .8 and positions of .9 - tie-in to the house heating system, inlet and outlet to the spiral heat exchanger( poses .10), through which the heat transfer from of the boiler to the hot water system is carried out. Similar "coils" can be more, for example, one is connected to the heating system, and the second - to the system of solar heat accumulators.

    For large volume boilers ( more than 150 liters) , there is usually a revision window( item 11) closed with a flange cap. In this window, by the way, it is often possible to install an electric heater - TEN, making the thus boiler more versatile.

    The magnesium anode( item 12) is an obligatory element for all modern boilers.

    Indirect heating boiler must have its own safety group, control and control device( item 13), thermal sensors for generating control signals( according to 14).

    An indirect heating boiler may have a slightly different design, the the so-called " tank in the tank " :

    

    The indirect heating tank tank principle

    Everything is almost the same, only the circulation of the technical fluid of the heating systemgoes through an external vessel " A2.Inside it is installed an internal tank "B", in which the heating of the sanitary water is carried out. The surface of the inner tank is corrugated to increase the area of ​​active heat exchange.

    Indirect heating boilers are characterized by high capacity( of course, with the appropriate capacity of the boiler), economical. Alas, they also have a lot of shortcomings. First, they are "tied" to the heating system, and when the comes on warm days and the boilers are turned off, they simply stop working. Secondly, such a boiler is a rather massive structure that takes up a lot of space, which is especially important for cramped conditions of urban apartments. Probably, from the point of view of convenience, the two-circuit boiler is more preferable. And thirdly, boilers of indirect heating are somewhat "capricious" in terms of adjustments and maintenance of the required temperature - in need a fairly complex and cumbersome system of control and coordination with the heating circuit.

    Combined boilers

    Both direct and indirect heating boilers have their own significant advantages and significant drawbacks. To fully take into account and both , create a kind of "symbiosis" of for both circuits - this was the task set by the developers of combined boilers.

    In the diagram - one of the typical examples of similar devices, a boiler from the family of models " SMART ".

    

    Convenient but quite expensive model of the universal, combined

    boiler. As can be seen from the figure, this boiler is assembled according to the "indirect" scheme " tank in tank ", but also has its own electric heaters( TANS ).They can be switched on, for example, when the of the heating energy of the heating system is insufficient for the to raise the sanitary water temperature to the required level( often this happens when the in the off-season period, in autumn or spring, the heating boiler is not used at rated power).Naturally, when the heating season ends, the TANS will be fully charged to provide the house with hot water. On the one hand - it is convenient, on the other hand - the system is rather cumbersome, and besides , the combined boiler does not solve the problem of space saving - it also needs a lot of extra space.

    So that draw line under the first section of the publication, it can be stated that the optimal choice in terms of ease of installation, reliability and ease of in operation will still be an electric direct heating boiler. And the fact that it is somewhat less economical - this issue should be addressed by a diligent approach to the use of hot water.

    How to choose the boiler

    The assortment of modern household appliances stores can easily put in the "dead end" - which model of the boiler for the apartment is preferable, on which parameters to rely? It is clear that the device must "fit" into the interior of the room - however, this selection criterion should not become decisive in any way. First of all, attention is always paid to the operational characteristics, the materials for the manufacture of the main units, the availability and reliability of the control, monitoring and emergency protection systems.

    Required capacity

    water tank is available in large m m volumes - from mini devices with capacity of 8 ÷ 10 liters, up to powerful installations with storage tanks of 200 and more liters. The principle "the more the better" here absolutely is not acceptable .There is no point in overpaying for the completely unclaimed volume of heated water, and, in addition, losing the still for nothing and a precious place in the condition of a cramped apartment. It is better to approach the choice from a practical point of view.

    The volume of the of the heater should depend on the on the number of and the type of hot water points in the apartment or house, of the number of people living in it, so that the needs of all tenants are met evenly and to the maximum degree, without any inconvenience tv for the I have others.

    Boilers are capable of heating water to very high temperatures, even close to the boiling point. However, in terms of economy and safety, the optimal heating level is +60 ° With .Let such a value does not seem small - it is very hot water, the temperature of which can not withstand hand. Naturally, such water needs dilution of cold water. The table below shows approximate figures for the flow of hot( 60 °) water and, accordingly, diluted to a comfortable temperature:

    Hygienic and household needs	Optimum water temperature( ° C)	Approximate total water flow( liters)	Amount of preheated60 ° water( liters)
    Conventional handwashing	37	1,5 ÷ 4	1 ÷ 3
    Shower acceptance	37	35 ÷ 50	17 ÷ 25
    Bathing with bathing	40	150 ÷ ​​180	85 ÷ 120
    Morning washing, brushing teeth, shaving	37	12 ÷ 15	5 ÷ 8
    Washing of cookware	50	15 ÷ 25	14 ÷ 17

    Guided by these values ​​and knowing the number of people living in the house, you can calculate the required volume of the with the calculator, with the calculation, so that the water is sufficient for everyone without additionalwaiting for its heating. It is clear that this should proceed from reasonable consumption - if someone needs a bath, then no other hot water is not enough.

    To make simpler,

    will quickly identify the recommended volume of the boiler for the specific conditions:

    Number of living water users	Number of residents taking an evening shower directly next to each other	Number and type of water intake points inapartment( house)	Minimum allowable volume of storage tank	Optimum volume of boiler
    One adult	-	only washer	10	30
    One adult	1		30	50
    two	2	two	2		3		3		4		4		4	family: two adults and three children	5	Family: two adults and two children	5	Family: two adults and two children	5	Family: two adults and two children	5	Sink, shower, sink, bath	120	150

    Nominal and maximum power of the water heater

    It is clear that is stronger than TANS of than , the higher is the total load and power consumption of the installation, the sooner the water will heat up to the set temperature. However, to follow strictly this approach - to choose the device with maximum power, it would be a mistake. Do not forget that the has defined load thresholds for the internal power networks, exceeding which the will, at best, , cause a permanent operation of the protective equipment, and at worst - overheating of the wiring and even the occurrence of a fire hazard situation.

    For the conditions of apartments, the private house in the will be full of water heater up to 2500 watts. For conventional electrical home networks, such consumption is not extreme, and standard outlets with a ground loop are usually calculated by the for an load of up to 3500 watts.

    Despite this, any electrician will still give advice to the - not to rely on the once-made wiring, but to extend to the boiler a separate line from the shield. The second advice is that if a boiler with a capacity exceeding 3000 W is selected, then the socket will not be the best option for its connection. For the full safety of the line, it is better to connect the water heater connection point via an automatic device rated for currents 16 ÷ 25 Amps .

    The dimensions of the water heater and its external layout

    Here, it would seem, everything is simple - the boiler is purchased with the required volume , and with dimensions already - as it will. Not certainly in that way.

    • Traditionally, since their appearance in everyday life, electric boilers have been vertically oriented and the was an cylinder hung on the wall or, for very large volumes, , permanently installed on the floor. The disadvantage of such a cylindrical shape is the irrational use of space, since the device is excessively protruding from the wall.
    

    Smaller in volume, the boiler can be raised higher to the ceiling

    If the boiler is small, up to 30 ÷ 50 liters, the volume of the can still be raised higher and it will not represent the of the particular interference, then with larger tanks , the space loss becomesessential.

    

    "Boosted" boilers take up less space, but they also have shortcomings

    From this point of view it will be much more convenient to use a vertical boiler "flattened" and sometimes parallelepiped .They are closer to the wall and allow you to freely dispose of the space in a small room. True, such models are much more expensive, and besides , their internal tank always has several welds, and this is always a kind of "Achilles heel" for any constantly contacting with water structure.

    • If the room where the boiler is planned to be installed is wide enough, it makes sense to consider the expediency of purchasing a device with a horizontal placement on the wall.
    

    Convenient in terms of space saving boilers horizontal arrangement

    In addition to the fact that this saves space, such boilers are praised for the rapid heating of water. True, the overall performance of such water heaters is still lower than that of vertical ones.

    With the boiler model by the type of housing and by its placement on the wall it is necessary to be determined immediately. It is absolutely unacceptable to change the mounting direction, for example, horizontal suspension vertically or on the contrary - the design features of each model predetermine the its placement and connection to water networks only strictly specified instruction position.

    Anticorrosive protection

    Without magnesium anodes, modern boilers are probably not manufactured yet - this simple device allows maximizing the service life of the heaters and internal capacity of the boiler.

    

    Magnesium anode significantly "drags" corrosion processes onto itself

    This anode can not be purchased and replaced - with special complexity.

    What can be added in this aspect - there are more modern anti-corrosion systems with so-called inert anodes. The degree of protection of the boiler here is much higher, the is true and the price of such a model is the same.

    Kinds of HEATERS

    • Since the very beginning of the appearance of boilers in use, so-called "wet" electric heaters are installed in them - HEATERS .
    

    Wet TEN constantly in contact with water. ..

    They are directly immersed in heated water, means the heat transfer process takes place more efficiently. However, the main is also vulnerable here: the water quality can be such that even magnesium anodes do not help, and the heaters in the read months are covered with scum and corrosive deposits.

    

    . .. and this contact does not pass without a trace, alas, does not pass - such heaters do not differ with the durability of

    • . Heaters with "dry" elements are considered more perfect. This, by the large account of , is no longer a heater in the literal sense( the is not a tubular electric heater), but rather the , system of powerful heating coils on a ceramic enclosure.
    

    "Dry" heaters are much safer and more durable

    Such "dry" heater is placed in a perfectly sealed capsule, which is located in the internal volume of the boiler. Contact with water can not simply be, and this heater lasts much longer. Yes, and change it easier - for this, you do not even need to drain their tank water.

    Material for the storage tank of the boiler

    • If you approach from the point of view of cheapness of the model, you can buy a boiler with a regular steel inner tank, which has an enamel coating. Perhaps, in addition to low cost, other advantages in this design is not - - , it is least resistant to pressure or temperature increase - the enamel can become covered with cracks and start to chip.
    • Where is more practical in this regard, water heaters with a tank of stainless steel. They are not so picky about the rigidity of the and the chemical composition of the water heated in them, much more hygienic. Stainless steel - is plastic enough material, therefore it is not afraid of significant temperature changes and, accordingly, pressure - steel compensates for all extensions, and deformation does not happen.

    Some boilers with a tank made of high-quality stainless steel and with a dry TAN are not even equipped with magnesium anodes in the absence of such a need.

    • The most modern are water heaters with tanks made of a glass-and-fluorophore composite. Here one can talk about absolute neutrality to any chemical reagents, the complete absence of even hints of for corrosion or surface deformation.

    The heated water under no circumstances will smell, as it often happens with enamelled tanks .Moreover, the glass-porcelain coating even has an -specific antibacterial effect.

    The disadvantage of such water heaters is one - they are still still very expensive compared to other models.

    Water heater control mechanisms

    On the simplest models there is a simple electromechanical control - a rotating handle, through which the desired temperature of heating and maintaining water is set. An obligatory element, as a rule, is a pointer indicator - a thermometer and a light bulb( LED) indicating a heating process or a pause.

    

    Simple boiler control unit -run thermometer and electromechanical thermostat

    In principle, such a control and management scheme in most cases is quite enough. However, if desired, you can buy more "heaped" boilers, which have a liquid crystal display of the operating modes, and the ability to program. For example, with the setting for the on-time, the heating power level and , the .

    

    Modern boilers can have multi-functional electronic control systems

    Such models can be included in the "smart house" system, managed with the help of special remote consoles, have other interesting, but probably not so popular in everyday life functions.

    Fame of from the manufacturer

    The question is also important. To give even not too much a large sum for the absolute "cat in a bag", probably is not too prudently. How to know, maybe is lucky , but very often the result is exactly the opposite, and the saddest is that no one can demand any guarantee obligations either.

    In the middle price category , as a rule Italian, Slovak, Turkish water heaters. They have a good, neat assembly, but here as the components most often used are Chinese spare parts, which can not be called substandard, but to the world standards they all still is far away.

    If the aim of buying is guaranteed quality and longevity, along with the most advanced technologies, here German manufacturers are not equal. In addition, real heaters from Germany are famous for their excellent heat retention characteristics - a fully heated boiler, the disconnected from the from the power supply, will lose no more than 6 - 7 degrees per day.

    How to connect a boiler

    The installation of an electric direct heating boiler in its place can be divided into several distinct technological stages:

    • Choosing the right place and suspending the water heater to the wall.
    • Piping of pipes to the boiler and its insertion into the water supply system.
    • Installation and debugging of control and safety systems.
    • Connecting the boiler to the mains.

    Mounting the boiler on the wall

    It would seem - is it easier than to hang the water heater on the wall in the chosen place? However, frivolity in such an issue of is absolutely not permissible .Judge for yourself - even a small boiler, say 50 liters, with full filling will weigh about 70 kilograms. What can happen if the mount is unreliable - you can see in the photo.

    

    It's just lucky that neglecting the rules of the boiler's suspension did not end with the great tragedy of

    . Even at best, if at the moment of the fall of no one from people were not from the bottom - it's a broken device, spoiled plumbing, for sure - leaking water and t.n .And at worst - in addition to the shock injury - still and the danger of to scald with hot water or get an electric shock.

    • So, the wall material must be such that in it the is securely retained. In this quality, the plasterboard walls can not even be considered - without special metal construction, the boiler can not be suspended in any case.
    • The suspensions themselves - dowels or anchors with hooks, must withstand twice the maximum load. For example, attachments for a boiler with a volume of 120 liters must withstand a shear force and a bend of 250 kg.
    

    Minimum size of dowel hooks for the

    Usually conscientious manufacturers complete their models with fasteners, which are guaranteed to withstand the loads of . if you have to purchase the fasteners yourself, then the golden rule should work - it is better to take with a huge margin than to doubt whether it will be enough or not. Usually for domestic class boilers, there are enough dowels or anchors with a central rod with a diameter of at least 8 mm, with an external collet or cork diameter of not less than 12 mm. The length of the dowel is about 100 - 120 mm.

    

    Anchor type hook

    • The boiler should not be too far from the of the ."Classic" place of its installation is a bathroom, a wall above the toilet. True, there may be obstacles to such placement. For example, an excessively large water heater will simply not fit there. In addition, there are apartments that do not have one pair of risers for cold and hot water supply - this happens when the bathroom unit and the kitchen are separated. Sense of pulling long communications, feeding the from one boiler all points, no. The optimal solution is to install two heaters - for a bath, and a second, more compact - for kitchen needs.
    • The boiler must be placed on the wall in such a way that the so that the remains open for monitoring all its indicating and operating controls, the so that the has free access to the plumbing fixture and the power-on device.
    • It is recommended to leave a distance of at least 100 mm between the boiler and the ceiling. Do not place the outboard water heater below 500 mm from the floor surface.
    

    The boiler is hung from the hooks with a mounting rail or welded brackets

    • In most suspension boilers, one or is welded to the body with two metal mounting plates or brackets with holes for hooks. Before marking, follow t to accurately measure the distances between these holes so that they can be transferred to the wall. Sometimes in the technical documentation of the water heater, a paper template is attached to the installation instructions for the most accurate markup - so the is still easier for the .

    Vertical axial and horizontal lines are beaten on the wall, with control at using construction level . But it marks holes for dowels or anchors. After drilling holes and clogging the fasteners in them, the hook is screwed in such a way that approximately 5 - 7 mm remains on the outside.

    After this you can hang the boiler on the hooks.

    • There is one one option - the water heater is equipped with a special bracket that is fixed to the wall, and on the boiler body there is a "mating part" for suspension on this bracket. Then they are used on hooks, and dowels or anchors bolted type , under hexagon key.

    Insulation of the boiler in the water distribution system of the

    apartment This is one of the most difficult tasks. The meaning of of its is that it is necessary to install tees on the cold and hot water main. Through the "cold" , the will draw water into the heater. Through the "hot" boiler will be connected to the internal distribution of hot water.

    Classical scheme of the display on the scheme:

    

    The time-tested connection scheme of the electric boiler to the

    water system. The blue arrows indicate cold water movement, red, respectively, hot.

    By. 1 is the water heater itself.

    Pos.2 and 3 - cold and hot water supply pipes. Typically, at the entrance, in front of the water meters( not shown in the diagram) are the shut-off valves - pos.4 and 5. Important note - when working in stand-alone mode, that is, when using a boiler, the valve pos.5 is always completely closed.

    Next, pos.6 and 7 are the same tees that you need to cut in order to connect the boiler.

    Valves pos.8 and 9 - an element, in principle, optional, but highly recommended. With the help of these cranes, it will be possible to disconnect the boiler, for example, for preventive maintenance or for repair, the does not while the does not affect the rest of the .

    From these valves, the piping( keys 10 and 11) usually begins with the water heater itself. Flexible hoses or plastic pipes, polypropylene or metal plastics can be used.

    If the connection of the hot pipe is connected, most often directly to the boiler, it is mandatory to install a safety valve( item 12) in cold water, which can be connected to the with a thin flexible hose( item 13).

    Optionally( optional), it is recommended to install another one tee with an outlet valve - this will allow the water from the to drain the water heater when this is necessary.

    With theory - finished. Now let's see how this can be done in practice.

    • The tool and accessories - nut( for 22, 24, 27 and 32), as well as gas keys, a plastic pipe cutter, a cable for rewinding connections and a special paste for the same purposes are required. You can have a few rubber pads in stock ½ and ¾ inches.
    • First of all, before the start of the installation work, both inlet valves( pos. 4 and 5) must be closed.
    • The next node is the tees. There will be no particular problems if the internal wiring in the house and whether the apartment is made of polypropylene or metal-plastics - you can cut out the desired fragment t t , weld or weld the tee into fittings, and then from it lead further laying to the boiler.
    

    Tee for metal plastics( left) and for polypropylene

    It is more difficult if the pipe is laid steel, and replacing with its for more perfect - plastic, is not planned yet. Hence, the will have to a tee.

    In principle, simple and acceptable solution can be installation of collapsible clip-clamp. A hole is drilled in the pipe, is put on top, is tightened, and further output is made from the formed output.

    

    Tee-clip allows to some extent to solve the problem, but it is better to make a "capital" frame

    . However, this option is not considered too successful - there may be leakage, and there is a high probability of quick clogging in place of the drilled hole.bulgarian section of the pipe, cut the thread with the appropriate lorga, and then "pack" the full brass tee using the usual or much better - using the couplings with the union nut - so-calledAmerican ».

    

    The most convenient way is to use connections with union nuts - American

    Video: how to go from metal pipe to plastic

    • From the installed tee already, of course, it is necessary to "get closer" to the boiler by installing plastic pipes.

    It is recommended to connect the pipes as close as possible to the water heater. As the last part of the pipeline, flexible hoses are used in the metal braid .So - the shorter they are, the more durable. Long hoses strongly vibrate when starting and closing water, and this causes their accelerated wear.

    Obligatory condition - if such flexible hoses are installed, they must be of exceptionally high quality.

    However, many masters still prefer to make the whole pipeline of polypropylene or metal-plastic pipes.

    

    Pulling without flexible hoses - only from polypropylene pipes

    Do not forget that before the last section of the pipeline it is recommended to install another one pair of shut-off valves.

    The hot pipe is connected directly to the red water pipe connection. You can meet the recommendations to install an additional tee here with an outlet to the drain cock - but from the practical point of view of special application such an element has not.

    

    On the left, on the hot pipe is mounted a tee with a branch valve. From a practical point of view - not particularly necessary part

    Special attention - connection of cold pipes

    Here it is much more strict requirements for connecting water to the boiler.

    The main of these is the mandatory installation of the safety valve immediately before entering the water heater connection. This device, in fact, is an double-acting valve.

    

    Without any exaggeration - the most important safety element, safety valve

    • In the longitudinal cylinder with threaded connection there is a poppet check valve - it will not allow water to flow out of the boiler even if there is no pressure in the supply pipes at all.
    • In the perpendicularly located cylinder there is also a poppet valve, but with a much stronger spring. The force of the of its compression is calculated in such a way that the valve is released when the pressure in the boiler exceeds the critical point, for example, if the thermostat fails, overheats or even boils. In this case, excess liquid will be dropped into the drainage pipe, and the pressure in the device will be normalized. The drainage branch pipe is often connected by a transparent flexible tube with a drain or an drainage tank to the toilet bowl.

    Many models have a lever - it allows you to open the emergency valve manually, for example, to drain water from the tank.

    It is often possible to hear complaints that water from such a valve is being broken. It is impossible to complain about this - you should be glad that the valve works correctly. Much more fear should cause the valve, which is always dry - there is a possibility that it is jammed spoiled.

    There are clever men who believe that only a non-return valve will be enough. This is a terrible misconception , which has more than once led to real tragedies.

    Another one important warning - after the valve and before entering the boiler it is not allowed to install any locking devices.

    Video: the importance of installing the safety valve

    The picture shows the installed valve above which the tee is packed, having a side outlet through the shut-off valve. This is a quite acceptable and rather convenient improvement of the boiler's piping - it is always possible to quickly merge the and its water or use the water supply when for some reason the does not have its in the water pipe.

    

    Valve, and above it a pass-through tee with a lateral outlet to the valve. The shut-off device between the valve and the boiler is not allowed.

    It happens that the house's water supply system is extremely unstable pressure - there are strong leaps. This is not safe for the boiler in terms of the occurrence of hydraulic shocks. In addition, under increased pressure, an emergency valve may operate, and it is useless to discharge water into the sewage system.

    It is not difficult to eliminate such a trouble - you need to install at the entrance to the apartment or directly before the boiler pressure reducer - usually purchased with a nominal value of 2 atmospheres.

    

    The compact gear unit will equalize the pressure in the

    system. When installing valves and gearboxes, the must be on the arrow board, on the on their housing and indicating the direction of the water flow.

    "Packing" of threaded plumbing connections is best done on the patella with the use of a special sealing paste( for example, " Unipack ").The fibers of the pakli are wound around the thread turns strictly clockwise, then pasted on top with paste. Especially tighten the key, this pairing is not required - it spins up to the stop, but "without fanaticism."In case of need, you can even make a quarter or even a half-turn back - this should not affect the tightness of the connection. In this, this kind of rewinding is much more advantageous, for example, of the .

    

    Winding of the threaded connection of the

    package. When connecting flexible hoses and union nuts, it is not necessary to rewind - there are rubber seals in the sealing task.

    

    The "piping" of the boiler is completed by

    After the is connected all nodes according to the scheme, the quality of all connections is checked, it is possible to test the set of water in the boiler.

    • For this, is primarily an , the shut-off valve at the inlet of hot water in the apartment is closed.
    • Then, in one of the points of the , a "hot" tap opens on the mixer - the air expelled from the tank will escape through it.
    • The cold water supply valve opens into the boiler.
    • The water heater starts to fill. It is necessary to monitor the moment until water from the open tap not starts running - it will say that the boiler is full. After that, the faucet on the mixer should be buried. The cold water supply valve to the heater always remains open for the entire period of use of the device.
    

    An interesting scheme for piping a boiler with metal-plastic pipes. Not only a reducer, but also a three-way valve for accurate adjustment of the water temperature at the

    inlet is installed. On this final boiler walling into the water pipe system, can be considered complete . It remains only connect the boiler to the power source, set the desired heating temperature on the control panel, and, as it is heated, it is wise to use hot water.

    Video: how to install a water heater with hands