Sauna heater for own bath

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Any material can be used in the construction of a bath, but it is absolutely impossible to do without an oven. There are several options for the oven, but not a single modern electric model will replace the traditional heater.

Sauna heater for own bath

Sauna heater for own sauna

Furnace-heater can be of two types:

  • metal;
  • brick.

To choose which one is better, everyone should independently, because there is no unambiguous answer to this question. It is important only that the construction, made by own hands, will fully meet the requirements and wishes of the owner.

Brick stoves sauna heater

Brick stoves for sauna

Before considering the pros and cons of each option, find out what should be a sauna stove.

Basic requirements of

Contents of the article

  • 1 General requirements
  • 2 Brickhouse heater
  • 3 Construction technology
    • 3.1 Video - Sauna heater for own bath
  • 4 Iron heater

The heater performs the following functions:

  • Provides strong heating of the stones, which is required for steam generation during watering;
  • uniform fuel consumption;
  • providing the optimum temperature( 75-80ᵒС under the ceiling, 54-50ᵒС at the floor level);
  • maintaining high efficiency.
    The oven for a bath

    Furnace for sauna

In view of all this, during construction of the furnace, you should pay attention to such parameters:

  • design should not have cracks;
  • the distance between the ceiling and the stove should be 50 cm;
  • is inadmissible to contact any heating element of the structure with wooden objects;
  • the ash pan should be at least 15 cm from the floor;
  • all walls adjacent to the furnace should be finished with non-combustible material( steel, asbestos);
  • the floor is covered with an iron sheet.

Please note! Regardless of the chosen design, security should be the priority. In the absence of necessary skills, it is better to choose a gas element and entrust its installation to professionals.

Brick heater

Thick walled construction made of fireclay bricks, which is heated with solid fuel. A distinctive feature of such furnaces is that they should be melt in advance - approximately five to six hours before the adoption of water procedures. When the desired temperature is reached, the fuel supply stops, and procedures begin only after it completely burns out. For this reason, the furnace can be attributed to devices of periodic operation. The temperature inside the structure can reach 800-850 ° C.

Advantages include:

  • long-term heat preservation( about nine hours);
  • fire safety due to metal base;
  • possibility of heating large areas;
  • simplicity of installation( if appropriate skills are available).

It is also worth noting that even the next day the temperature can fluctuate within 20-23 ° C.

Brick Heater

Brick sauna heater

Still, the brick heater has some disadvantages, among which:

  • for a long time of heating;
  • overall;
  • heavy weight, requiring an in-depth foundation;
  • need for appropriate knowledge( for masonry).

In addition, it is required to wait for complete combustion of fuel, otherwise there will be a risk of carbon monoxide poisoning.

Brick oven for a bath

Brick stove for bath

Construction technology

After the preparation of standard tools( trowel, level, solution tank) and materials( cement, sand, clay, chamotte and red brick, metal fittings), masonry begins. It is characteristic that the clay should also be chamotte - it is necessary for smearing seams.

The order of the heater

Order of the heater

Please note! It is unacceptable to use silicate brick for structures of this type.

First, a foundation is being built - a hole is pierced with a depth of 50 cm and dimensions that exceed the dimensions of the future structure by about 25-30 cm. A wooden formwork is installed, a 5 cm "cushion" of crushed stone is poured in, a solution is poured. As the concrete cures, the bricks are laid.

"Zero" series. The height of the base is displayed to the floor level. In the front row, bricks are produced in both directions - they will serve as a support for cutting. Next comes the order.

Series number 1. In the back left corner another support is made( the third brick is produced).

Series number 2. A susceptible channel is built with an ashtray. The doors for the ash and bladder chambers are installed, previously wound with an asbestos cord. On the back side along the channel are laid bricks - one whole, the other in ¾.And between them and the right wall, leave a gap of about ½ the length of the product.

Series number 3. With the help of wire fastened door - it stretches from both sides and inserted into the seam between the bricks. Vertical laces are stretched at the corners of the structure.

The sump is blocked at this stage.

Series number 4. We use fireclay bricks. A refractory core is formed, a grate is installed. Between the brick and the grate you need to leave small gaps for thermal expansion.

Fireclay masonry

The subsequent series of the refractory core is laid out similarly to the previous one. On the rows No. 3 and No. 4 an opening is formed for the furnace. Also, holes are created for the secondary air supply - in the lower part of the side bricks the teeth are cut along the entire length.

Refractory fifth row laid out without mortar, a door( 12x12 cm) is installed for the duct. It is characteristic that it is better to cut teeth on both sides of the core, otherwise the supply of air may not be enough.

A chamotte lattice is laid on top of the fifth row. To do this, bricks( necessarily flat) are laid along the structure in steps of approximately ½ the width of the product. Gaps are filled with filled pieces of the appropriate size.

Series number 5. Main masonry continues. A partition is formed between the channels. It is important that the height of the lifting channel is equal to the cross-section of one brick, and the lower one - 1.5.The gap between the core and the wall is small( of the order of 0.8 cm).In the gap is placed a basalt cardboard 5 mm thick.

Please note! In the process of masonry, it is recommended to apply a sheet of cardboard to the wall so that the solution squeezed out in the work does not narrow the gap.

The top hole is surrounded by basalt cardboard.

Series No. 6 .The doors are fastened with screws M6.

Series number 7. Between it and the previous row is cut the first output of the register. A pair of sheets of basalt is applied to the back wall - they will be excellent in 8-millimeter cracks.

Series number 8. The upper part of the door( for the furnace) is installed.

Series number 9. This door is overlapped.

Series number 10-12. Basalt sheets are attached to the side walls, and the space for the secondary duct is blocked.

Fireclay masonry

Next, you need to return to the refractory core. The lattice described above was near number 6, and on the seventh and eighth the walls are laid.

Series number 13. The second register output( top) is output.

Series No. 14-16. Same as above.

Sauna heater

Sauna heater

Fireclay masonry

Parallel to the number 9 there are built sauna doors and flue gas outlet into the descending canal( at the center of the branch there is a support post of ½ brick).

Series number 10. It is put flat, and the opening is partly closed. The heater closes, in parallel - the door opening( from the side), as shown in the picture. The nucleus is finished.

Series number 17. In the masonry, openings are formed( opposite to those in the core).

Fireclay core

Fireclay core

Fireclay core

Fireclay core

Series No. 18. Identical to the previous one.

Series No. 19. On the left is a pair of windows from the heater, a door is attached to the right.

Series number 20. On the basalt, the valve is laid, the gaps are observed in case of thermal expansion. On the right is the door of the heater.

Series No. 21. Two output channels are formed, which will be consolidated into one. On the right, the opening is covered by a "three-quarter"( 3/4 bricks), which will slightly hang. Between the bricks and the core, leave a gap of 3-4 cm, all the cracks are filled with mineral wool.

Series # 22. The opening above the core overlaps completely, the channels are slightly shifted to the center.

Series number 23. The narrowing of the smoke channel continues.

Series number 24,25. Same as above.

Series No. 26. The chimney is put in the "five", and its internal size is equal to the whole brick. The valve is installed.

Series # 27,28. Similar to the previous one, one more valve is installed on top.

Construction of a kamenka

Construction of a heater

In the subsequent rows of masonry, a classic "swirl" is formed.

Folding

Folding

Please note! Instead of stones, iron bricks can be laid on the grate. They weigh about 5 kg each, so eight pieces will be quite enough.

Stove for sauna( heater)

Furnace for sauna( heater)

It only remains to connect the water supply to the register and install a water tank for about 80 liters. There is much debate about the feasibility of using basalt cardboard. Experts say that it is necessary in the heater, because it reduces the intensity of heating the brick and thereby prevents the formation of cracks. In other words, it acts as a damper.

Video - Sauna heater for your own sauna

Iron heater

Made of sheet steel or cast iron. It differs from brick insignificant thickness of walls and continuous burning. Most models are equipped with automatic thermostats, which allows you to more economically spend fuel or electricity. The temperature inside the furnace can reach 450-500 ° C.Heater from metal

Please note! The stones are heated from the walls of the structure and the chimney, for which the furnace must be placed accordingly. This is not always possible, because the layout, as well as the area of ​​the room can be different.

When operating steam diverges immediately throughout the room, so it is undesirable to pour large amounts of water onto the stones( not more than 700 g), but if the area is large, the volume can be increased.

In Finnish saunas, where dry steam is used, electric heaters are installed, heating stones by TEN.

Due to the complexity of the construction, metal heaters( especially electric heaters) are not recommended for independent production.

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