Country house with own hands

After buying a country site for giving necessarily becomes actual question on how to build a cottage with their own hands. Well, to build it yourself - is quite possible, unless, of course, a huge "palace" is planned, requiring the involvement of construction equipment and a team of professionals.

Usually compact houses are chosen for the dacha, but, nevertheless , the house must have everything necessary for rest - room , kitchen, veranda. The latter will become a favorite place for the evening pastime of the whole family. It is very important to make the dacha house cozy and comfortable, so you need to think over all the nuances of its arrangement.

The optimal material for country house construction is wood, and the construction principle is a frame structure.

Undoubtedly, the first thing that will need to be done is - it is to decide on the place and size of the building, draw up a project, plan further work.

Прое кт a small country house

The size of the future house largely depends on the area of ​​the suburban area, the number of family members and material capabilities hosts .If you plan correctly, draw up a successful project and choose an inexpensive but high-quality material for construction, you can save space, means and the time of work.

Most often, the country house has a size of 5.0 × 6.0 or 4.0 × 6. 0 m .Buildings of a larger area are erected much less often, and is mostly , in those cases when they are planned to be operated year-round. But this is, rather, will not be a holiday home, but a full-fledged country house.

The layout of the house. is possible, will have to be carried out on the basis of requirements that can be established by the board of the horticultural partnership, therefore , acquiring a site, it is necessary to learn about such nuances in advance. The following distances are most often required:

• The house should be installed at a distance of 3 meters from the border of the neighboring plot, and from the fence that separates the plot from the general passage( street) - by 5 meters.
• In order to provide with fire protection, a stone house from another stone structure is located at a distance of not less than six meters, and from a wooden - ten. If the house is wooden, then it should be installed at a distance no closer than 15- te meters from another wooden structure.
• So that the house does not block neighboring buildings from sunlight, if it is placed on the eastern, southern or western side of the site, it is located at a distance from another apartment house, at least of equal height.

Usually, the highest is selected for the installation of a holiday cottage on a site in which the will not collect water from melting snow or from torrential rains. Increased humidity under the house will never go to benefit any building material, but it will always affect the overall strength and durability of the structure.

Most often, for the construction of summer cottages choose the following technology for its construction: frame-panel construction, log houses from logs , walls from blocks or bricks.

For summer-resorts, projects of single-storey houses with closed or open verandas or terraces are mostly chosen. Often the building has an attic space used for storage of garden tools and other things unnecessary, it would seem, in everyday life, but which can always come in handy in the country. However, it also happens that in some projects the beams of the attic floor are missing altogether, and then the roof slopes simultaneously fulfill the role of the ceiling.

If the family is large and the plot area is not too large, how would you like, then you can plan a two-story house that occupies very little space at the base. In this case, the first floor can be given under the living room, terrace and kitchen, and on the second - arrange cozy beds for the whole family.

It is not at all necessary for the in the country house to build a full second floor, as its role can perfectly fulfill the attic superstructure. Having made its natural materials, it is possible to create a wonderful healthy summer residence atmosphere.

Summerhouses are mainly used in warm period year , starting with arrival of spring and ending in autumn. Therefore, they do not require reinforced insulation of the walls and roof, but should be provided for - in case of cold nights or a drop in temperature under unstable weather. Usually, electric appliances are used as heaters, for example, convectors or infrared film emitters, but sometimes the owners prefer to even install fireplaces or cast iron heating-cooking stoves.

By the way, if the construction of a real fireplace or a brick oven is conceived, then they must be included in the compiled project.

There are ready-made options for holiday homes, sold fully in disassembled form, which you just need to deliver to the site and collect. Any detailed set of parts must be accompanied by detailed instructions, which describe the order of work, the main technological receptions of and connection schemes of individual elements and assemblies.

For the of the site owner, which has basic construction skills, it will not be very difficult to build such a holiday house yourself. The main advantage of this option is that it often includes everything necessary for the electrical network of a building, for its ventilation system and even for the installation of a water pipe.

Video: a small neat cottage, justifying its name

What type of house to choose?

Having defined the approximate plan of the future house, it is necessary to choose the material for its construction. From this choice will depend not only the type of the building itself, but also the comfort of staying in it , as well as the costs of its erection.

• Traditional material for the country house is wood, which will create a favorable microclimate in and , filling it with forest smells. The wooden house can be erected in a frame method, from a beam or logs .The disadvantage of wooden buildings is the high fire hazard of the material.

However, wooden houses have always been built, and many of them have stood for centuries. Today, on the market there are special fire-retardant impregnations, which significantly reduce the risk of fire in wooden buildings. Yes, and in general - the most important thing here is not material, but the human factor - it is people's disregard for the elementary requirements of fire safety in the overwhelming number of cases that causes ignition.

• Construction of a brick structure will cost the much more, but it can be called a full house with good reason, which will be used not only in summer, but also if necessary in winter if you install an furnace in the .Brick buildings are much less susceptible to fire and with a quality masonry will last a very long time. The disadvantages are the more complex and long process with triads, which requires special skills, and high on materials.

This category of buildings also includes block houses from keramzitobetona , aerated concrete, foam concrete, etc.

• Very often in the construction of the cottage used different materials. For example, a house is built of wood, but on a foundation of concrete, brick or blocks.

This option can be called optimal, since the foundation of moisture-resistant materials will create optimal conditions for the construction of walls from wood, thus the - will become the reliable for the house .

This is the last option and it is worth considering, as it is the most popular of all kinds of holiday cottages.

Stages for the construction of a cottage

Materials for the construction of a cottage

If you do not want to bother with calculations , it is better to buy a prefab model of a house that has a certain area, for which you will only need to prepare a place.

In all other cases, you will need to purchase building materials. Their appearance, size, volume is , the total is all depending on the size of the planned building, which is determined by the project.

Base material

For any type of foundation you will need the following materials:

- sand, gravel, cement ;

- third-grade board and timber for formwork;

- brick or concrete blocks;

- waterproofing material( ruberoid);

- claydite of the middle fraction.

Material for walls and roof

Since timber is chosen for the construction of walls, other materials will be selected based on this:

- bars and boards of different sizes, depending on the design parameters;

- fastening elements - nails, screws, bolts, studs;

- corners of different configurations, metal plates - for fastening assemblies;

- vapor barrier film ;

- insulation - mineral wool, eco-wool or expanded clay;

- for roof covering it is better to choose light material - ondulin or corrugated board.

After the place of installation of the future house is determined, the materials are acquired, you can proceed to the arrangement of the foundation. However, to begin with it is necessary still to be defined with its type.

The foundation of a cottage

Even with the construction of such a small and light built like a wooden cottage, no foundation can not do. In this case, ideally one of two kinds - is used for this purpose. This is a columnar and ribbon foundation. Which one to choose - depends on the preference of the builder.

• The column foundation will be a less expensive option, since it will allow to seriously save on construction materials. In addition, such foundation nt in can be executed independently, without assistance, which will also save some money.

How to erect column foundation variant of , you can find out all details by following this link on the corresponding page of our portal.

• To create a ribbon foundation, not only more materials will be required, but also a long enough period. This is not surprising - around the perimeter of the future house will need to dig a trench, waterproof its , install reinforcement, build a formwork and pour the foundation pit with concrete. And after that, whether you want it or not, it will take another and a month before the full hardening of the filled tape and the set of its brand strength.

However, the strip foundation nt all is also very popular among individual builders. This option is convenient because it allows you to make a basement under the house, however, for this foundation wall, should be raised over the surface of the soil by 700 ÷ 800 mm. The ribbon foundation is described in detail in the article that you can find on on the portal by following the link provided.

If a column foundation is chosen, it is recommended from the site, which will be under the house and around it at 500 ÷ 600 mm, to remove the top layer of the soil by 150 ÷ ​​200 mm. Then fill in the resulting foundation pit sand layer of 30 ÷ 40 mm, which should be compacted. Above the sand cushion is laid the layer of the medium fractional crushed stone and is also compacted, and the remaining space should be covered with expanded clay. All these procedures are done so that small rodents can not get close to the house. They can not tolerate expanded clay( especially small), since it contains a large amount of dust and has a loose surface.

To protect the house from the penetration of large rodents or other uninvited guests from the animal world, it is desirable to cover the space under the house with a metal grid with cells no larger than 10 mm.

Construction of frame structure

. The frame house can be supplied with as an on the columnar as well as on the strip foundation. The erection always starts from the base, which must be reliably is waterproofed with by two or three layers of a walled roofing material.

• If a veranda is provided in the project, you should immediately separate the from its zone, over which the roof will be erected, but there will not be solid walls. To support the roof over the veranda, you can use the racks of the general framework of the walls. Another option - the veranda will be attached to the house separately.
• All wood billets without exception must be treated with antiseptic compounds and flame retardants .These impregnations will increase the resistance of wood to ignition, to the rotting of , to prevent the appearance of of nests of insects or colonies of representatives of microflora - mold or fungus.

• After the blanks have been properly prepared and completely dried, a lower frame( crown) is first made during the construction, which will be laid on the foundation and subsequently used for floor installation.

In order for the floor to be reliable , for the frame it is necessary to take quality bars of the required cross-section. If the means allow, it is better to choose wooden elements not by the "lower border" of the dimensions, and laying the certain stock in their section.

The table shows the optimal dimensions of the beam for the frame house:

Material and its function	Section size( in mm)
Lower trim harness	100 × 150
Top harness	100 × 100
Beam for the pedestrian wall posts	100 × 50
Side rails	100 × 100
Floor joists	100 × 80

• The supporting beams of the frame are mounted on coronal bars located along the perimeter of the foundation at a distance of 600-700 mm from each other. They are fixed with the help of corners or by means of inset. If the elements are of large size in cross section, they can additionally be fastened with metal clips.

• When the lower strapping with the support beams is ready, the frame walls are made. They can be assembled separately, and then in a finished form raised and fixed to the bars of the carcass strapping.

Another option is to lift the frame directly in place. For example, if the house is erected independently, without assistants, then the finished cage with will not be very easy alone to lift the to the height of the strapping, to fix it evenly and temporarily, until the final fastening, to fix. And this means that will have each of the bars to exhibit separately.

• The size of the bars for the walls of the framework of the walls should be, at least 100 × 100 mm, but it can also be mounted from boards having a section of at least 50 × 150 mm.

The bars are fixed to the lower strap with powerful corners that can hold them in an upright position. It is best to use not nails, but a screw - the difference in the AS is not not so significant, but the quality and reliability of the assembly is incomparably higher.

• Installing vertical racks, you should immediately mark the location of openings for windows and doors. It is best to install the site where they are to be installed, leave the frame free, and mount the wall part with the window window separately.

Then, when the is fastened to all other vertical racks and the is fastened to the upper strap, the area with the window is fixed to the place left for it.

• In the same way, all four walls are assembled. At the corners of the side racks are fastened together by corners, or instead of two separate one common corner stand is mounted. Its is recommended to be supported by diagonal struts on both sides, - they will give rigidity of the whole wall construction.

• The door opening is installed in the frame immediately. It is strengthened with an additional rack, since the hinged door has defined weight, which should be safely maintained as by the reinforced opening of , and by the whole frame of the wall.

• is left. If it is planned to trim the frame from the outside with the lining, then the next stage is to hold this event. The sheathing will give the construction an additional rigidity , which will allow the installation of the attic roof and roof truss system to continue.

. The flooring can be installed immediately after the external wall covering, but only if the roof is covered with roofing on the same day. It is highly undesirable that the freshly applied flooring becomes damp, if suddenly at night unexpectedly will go rain. Therefore, it is better to after all to begin to solve the issue with the roof, and then calmly engage in all other construction activities inside the house.

Roof construction and roofing

Types of roofing systems

A few words need to be said about the types of rafters, since, having moved to the roof, it is necessary to have a general idea of ​​this, to know which design is best to choose.

There are two types of rafters - hanging and layered .

Hanging system

Hanging rafter system differs in that it is arranged only on external bearing walls and has no other supports. She perfectly will approach for erection over a small country house structure. In order for the to ease the load on the wooden walls and on the foundation, the suspended rafters are tightened by tightening.

The hanging structure itself consists of a cross bar that also performs an overlapping function, and can simultaneously be a framework for filing a ceiling, and the also has an from rafter legs forming the roof slopes.

Overlap The is installed in a system where, in addition to external walls, there are internal bulkheads in the house that will become additional support points. Such a scheme can also be used in the construction of the roof of the cottage, if it has a large area and its rooms are divided by walls, built on the foundation.

nylon circuit When installing this system, the load on the bearing side walls becomes weaker, so fewer retaining elements can be used. It is excellent for mansard structures that will be used as living quarters.

Ceiling beams

The joists are laid exactly above the vertical frames of the walls. To ensure that they fit tightly on the upper bandage belt, grooves are cut at their edges. The size of the grooves can be calculated based on the formula shown in the figure.

The beams are fastened to the frame structure of the walls with the help of nails or screws, and in addition they are sometimes fixed on both sides by metal corners.

After completing the installation of the overlapping beams, you can proceed to the alignment of the roof truss system. For safety reasons, a temporary plank deck is laid on the joists to ensure comfort of movement in the attic plane during the installation of the rafters.

Assembling the roofing system

The roof rafter system can be mounted using a different fastening sequence of the of its elements:

• First option. It is necessary to fasten the last pairs of rafters on the ground, then lift them to the harness and install them in the finished form on the pediment walls of the house. And then connect them with a ridge beam, and already on the it mount the remaining pair of rafters.
• The second option. To begin with, install the middle posts on the pediments, then fasten them with a ridge bar or board, to which the rafters are then fastened.
• The third option. In this case, the pair of rafter legs in the upper part are fastened together by a ridge lining, and their lower side is fixed to the strapping of the wall, which in this version will act as a mauerlat.

The cross-section of logs used for rafter legs or should be strictly maintained - depending on rafter length between two points of support , and , depending on step between adjacent pairs of rafters

Maximum allowable length of rafter( in mm)	Step of rafters placement( in mm)
1100	1400	1750	2100
Cross-section of rafter( in mm)
bars with	log section Ø	bars with	log section Ø	bars with	section logs Ø	cross-section bars	logs Ø
up to 3000	80 × 100	100	80 × 100	130	90 × 100	150	90 × 160	160
up to 3600	80 × 130	130	80 × 160	160	80 × 180	180	90 × 180	180
up to 4300	80 × 160	160	80 × 180	180	90 × 180	180	100 × 200	200
up to 5000	80 × 180	180	80 × 200	200	100 × 200	200	-	-
to 5800	80 × 200	200	100 × 200	200	-	-	-	-
up to 6500	100x200	200	120x220	240	-	-	-	-

It should be noted that the fastening assembly of the rafters in the lower part will depend on the angle at which they are fastened to the ridge and how long they have.

If the rafter has a sufficiently long length and extends beyond the bearing walls, then the cutting is cut out on the it , which it will be installed on the binding beam( Mauerlat).An example of a similar felling is shown on the picture:

If the rafter ends at the edge of the supporting wall, then its lower edge is cut at a right angle to the Mauerlat, and the foot itself can be fixed to the by the using a special fastening plate, sliding support, angle, staples, nails or longself-tapping screws.

If the house is quite small, then after fixing the rafters on the harness, linking them with a ridge beam or board, adding additional retaining elements most likely not will have .

Detailed information on the exact calculation of the of the rafter system can be obtained from the special publication of our portal, following the recommended reference:

For mounting additional reinforcing elements of the rafter system, the material can be selected in accordance with the recommendations indicated in the table:

Elements of the rafter system	Size of timber or plank in section( in mm)
Mauerlat bar	100 × 100;100 × 150;150 × 150
Braces	100 × 200
Runs	100 × 100;100 × 150;100 × 200
Tightening torques	50 × 150
Supporting crossbars for pillars	100 × 150;100 × 200
Racks	100 × 100;150 × 150
Pops, boards for assembling the cornice box	50 × 150
Front and hem boards	22 ÷ 25 × 100 ÷ 150

Roofing system

After the rafters and additional elements form the roof slopes, you can proceed to the installation of the subsystem for the flooringroofing.

• The first thing you need to do from the outside of the roof, after installing the - rafters is to lay the film with vapor barrier, fixing the with its first with the staples and then with the slats on the rafters .

film is laid perpendicular to the rafters, starting from the of the bottom, eaves core. The overlap between two adjacent strips should be at least 200 mm.

Further, on top of the film , thin wooden rails are stuffed onto the rafters, which fix the vapor barrier and create the necessary ventilation gap.

• Perpendicular to the control grid is mounted the basic crate , on which the roofing material will be fixed. The setting step of the guides depends on the type and dimensions of the sheets of roofing material.

If soft roofing is chosen for the roof covering, instead of the rails battens, the slats are covered with a continuous - plywood, and then with a waterproofing sheet of the roofing material, which is laid by overlapping the by 150 ÷ ​​200 mm and glued together with bituminous mastic. Another option is the use of soft bituminous decorative tiles, which are laid using similar technology.

Following this link, you can learn more about the special stages of the soft roof installation :

• . For wooden houses, the following roofing materials are most often used( depending on the slope of the roof slope).
  

Roofing material	Roof pitch	Weight( kg / m 2)
Wavy asbestos cement sheets( slate 8 wave)	from 1:10 to 1: 2	11 ÷ 14
Wavy pulp and bitumen sheets( ondulin)	from 1:10 and more	6 ÷ 7
Soft roof( flexible tiles)	from 1:10 and more	9 ÷ 15
Sheets of galvanized sheet metal( metal profile)	from 1: 4 and more	3 ÷ 6,5
Metal tile	from 1: 5 and more	5 ÷ 7

• The prepared roofing material is laid and fixed. The work starts from the eaves, and if the first row is stacked from right to left, then all other rows are mounted in the same way.

Some types of roofing materials have strictly specified scheme of installation in the direction, which can not be changed. This must be indicated in the instructions attached to them.

Also , for any type of sheet roofing material, the overlap in the direction of the ramp( usually 150 ÷ ​​200 mm) is determined, and the number of waves( relief protrusions) in the horizontal direction along the roof.

• Almost all roofing materials are fastened on the crate with the help of special nails or self-tapping screws with waterproofing gaskets.

• It is very important to correctly choose and fix the roof ridge elements, otherwise it will be st pr swelling at the first rain. Usually the ridge element is chosen from the same material as the roof slopes.
• Further, the roof eaves of - can be made with a wooden or plastic lining. Sometimes for these purposes use special plastic elements - soffits.

• Then the elements of the drainage system from the roof - funnels, gutters on the brackets, pipes and , are installed on the windboard.

• Next, the gable sides of the rafter system are clad. Most often, a wooden or plastic board or even planed boards are used for this.

For the lining along the perimeter of the gable triangle a special profile is fixed, into which the panels prepared and cut at the desired angle will be fixed. The installation is usually done symmetrically by the - from the middle rack to one, and then the other side of the - , then the paneling will be smooth and neat.

By the way, mount the lining, in addition, can be horizontally, herringbone or come up with a more complex pattern.

For more information on technology for roof construction , please refer to the article posted by on the website on on link .

Now, finishing in the with the external roof finish and being sure that the rain is no longer will fall inside the cottage, you can proceed with installing windows and doors, insulating, flooring and wall covering.

Installation of windows and doors

• The window frames are mounted in the aisles of the framework, left for them , are set according to the level. For pre-fixing, when the frame is placed between it and brushes , spacers from wooden blocks or rails are installed.

Then, after checking the correctness of the installation, the frames are attached to the frame of the walls with metal strips. The remaining gaps between the frame and the frame bars are filled with mounting foam. After its drying, the excess is cut off, and around the windows on the outside of the wall are installed platbands that will close the unsightly look of the gaps and give the accuracy to the general appearance of the house.

• The door installation is best done together with the door frame if it has a sufficient hardness . So it will be much easier to level the entire construction level in the door aperture wall.

When exposing the door frame, if necessary, achieve of a clear vertical its position, place wedges( sticks) from wooden rails. The door frame to the frame is fixed in the same way as the window frames, using metal strips, and the gap is filled with with the mounting foam.

Install in the window and door, you can proceed to installing the floor.

Installation and floor insulation

To begin with, from the lower frame is removed temporary flooring from the boards( if it was), and then you need to install a rough floor.

• For this, skeletal bars are beaten or screwed onto frame load-bearing beams. They are necessary for laying on them cross-section boards of rough floor.

• Next, crumbs are laid with boards that are precisely sized to fit, or plywood with a thickness of 8 ÷ 10 mm - this flooring and will perform the functions of the rough floor.
• The top laid floor is closed hydro - steam - insulating with film, which must close both the bearing beams and the entire floor plane. Separate cloths of the material are laid overlapping ( at 150 ÷ ​​200 mm) and pasted at the joints with waterproof tape.

• Next, on film vapor barrier is laid or covered with insulation material. If there is no desire to have as neighbors of rodents who like to settle under the floor, then it is better for warming of floor to use claydite of medium or shallow fraction, or eco-watt - in similar materials these toothy pests simply do not live.

• At the top of the insulation is laid more one layer of the film membrane, which is nailed to the supporting beams by staples. The principle of laying - is exactly the same , as on the rough floor.

• Then the whole construction is closed with thick plywood or wooden floorboards.

Measures for additional thermal insulation

When the floor is completely ready, the walls of the house are insulated and lined from the inside. If the structure is used only in the warm time of the year, then the all will not interfere - the will work as an insulator of the premises from heating to high heat. Therefore , it is recommended to lay the thermal insulation layer not only in the walls, but also in the ceiling, and if it is not available - place the insulation on the internal slopes of the roof.

• First, a vapor barrier material is attached to all walls and ceiling beams. Then the ceiling is lined with lining, plywood or plasterboard.
• After the ceiling is insulated, the walls are insulated. Mats insulation in this case stacked between the pillars of the frame. It is necessary to do so, so that the mats stand as tightly as possible, with an emphasis in the wall frame bars, so, , so that the does not have any cracks.

That's why as a heater, mineral wool is most often used - it will be straightened after tight packing between the posts, completely fill in the se space. The material is usually selected so that the thickness of the mats and the thickness of the carcass racks are the same.

• After that all the walls are again tightened with vapor-proof film.

• The next stage of the is the cladding of the walls with wooden lining, plywood or plasterboard. The latter, with the subsequent decorative decoration of the walls, can be painted with water-based paint or covered with wallpaper.

• Next, the attic ceiling is insulated, there the - insulation is laid between the joists.

If the ceiling is sheathed from the side of the house with plasterboard or lining, then one should not forget that it is impossible to step on it, since the cladding can not withstand the weight of a person. It is necessary to move carefully on the beams of the floor.

• In the event that the attic is planned to be used for storage of various garden accessories, then the flooring from the boards or plywood having a thickness of at least 10 mm should be fixed to the ceiling beams on the floor beams.
• The finishing touches of the interior finish will be installation of clypees on windows and doors, ceiling and floor skirting and closing corners with hardware racks.

Additions to the house

The last stages of the arrangement of the cottage are mounting works on the porch and on the porch.

If a space is left in advance for the verandah on the framework lying on the foundation, then a board is laid on this space, to cover the floor( material for open areas is used), a guardrail is installed and a canopy is mounted.

If the foundation is raised sufficiently high above the with the ground, then the is also attached to the veranda and a porch is attached. How to build a porch correctly - you can find out by clicking on this link on the corresponding page of our portal.

Construct a cottage with their own hands - is quite a feasible task, but without helpers will be quite difficult. Therefore, , it is best to ask for help from a knowledgeable master who has experience in similar works, will always give useful advice and show how to properly assemble those or other nodes in the design of the house. You can "mobilize" relatives and acquaintances - it is possible that a knowledgeable person will turn out to be among them.

Video: construction of a country house on the frame technology