In the construction of garages, simplified technologies and lightweight structures are often used. The purpose of any garage is to protect the car or other equipment from unauthorized access, minor repairs and maintenance, as well as storage of spare parts, tools and other useful things. With these functions, even the capital structure is no match. The frame garage, built by own hands, will help to save considerably money for construction, and in functionality it will not yield to the capital garage of brick or concrete.
Features, advantages and disadvantages of the garage frame
The frame of the garage, built by themselves, is most often made of wood. This material is easy to process, affordable and does not heavier the design. For plating, you can use almost any material: wood, vinyl or metal siding, but the most popular today are sheets of corrugated board or metal sandwich panels.
The advantages of such a garage include:
- Ease of erection;
- Ability to work without the use of technology;
- Lightweight yet robust design;
- There is no need for a buried basement device.
Of the disadvantages, the combustibility of the carcass material should be noted, therefore it is recommended to sheathe it outside and from inside with non-combustible material, and for the insulation use stone wool that does not support combustion. It is also recommended to impregnate the wooden frame with an antiseptic, which prolongs its service life.
Base and foundation
The frame garage is lightweight, so it does not require the construction of a recessed basement. However, if there is a need for a pit, it is possible to build a foundation with a pit using the same technology as when building a garage from a metal profile. Below, we consider the technology of erecting a frame garage on the basis of ready-made concrete blocks.
- Concrete blocks can be bought or poured independently - while their cost price is 40-60% lower. For the self-production of concrete blocks will require form, cement, river coarse-grained sand, filler from expanded clay or rubble, water, as well as reinforcement mesh.
- The form for concrete blocks is a box without a bottom. It can be executed from a plank board, plywood with a ratio of length and width of 2: 1.From the inside, the mold should be smooth enough to ensure easy removal of the finished block. The bottom of the form is a table covered with polyethylene - the form is put on this table, oil is lubricated from inside, the ½-pound concrete is poured into it, the reinforcement net is cut into size and the concrete is poured into the edges. The edges are leveled and wait for the concrete to solidify, after which the blocks are removed and dried in the shade for a month.
- The site is leveled, removing garbage, tree roots, fertile soil, and slightly deepen. The pad is covered with sand and marking is made along the perimeter of the structure. The finished blocks are laid in two rows with the dressing of the joints on the cement mortar, and then wait for the setting of the solution.
- The external surface of the foundation is waterproofed with bituminous mastic in 2-3 layers with the drying of the layers, after which sandy filling is made to the surface of the ground.
The finished foundation will carry all the load from the structure, therefore it is necessary to wait a few days before installing the carcass of the garage.
Garage frame
The frame is made of well-dried wood. For the frame, you will need:
- 10x10 beam for main racks and floor and ceiling floor beams;
- Board of 40 mm on rafters;
- Board 20 mm on the crate and intermediate posts;
- Flooring board with a thickness of 40 mm.
The amount of building material depends on the size of the garage and is calculated after drawing a sketch. Frame technology:
- Waterproof the surface of the foundation with two layers of roofing material, glued to bituminous mastic. Waterproofing protects the wooden frame from moisture and rotting. On the perimeter of the garage lay the beam of the lower strapping, connecting it in the corners with the help of a cut-out and dowels. For this purpose, a beam of 10x10 cm is used.
- . On the bottom rail, corner and intermediate struts are installed from the beam, fixed with nagels, additionally fixing them to metal corners using self-tapping screws. The distance between the posts is at least 2 meters. Then set the upper trim from the bar 10x10 cm. The beam is fastened similarly to the lower one.
- Install the intermediate posts from the board 20 mm at a distance of about 50 cm. The distance between the racks is convenient to choose according to the size of the insulation mats, then you do not have to put additional crate for them. Between the posts are fixed horizontal jumpers, again focusing on the height of the insulation. Screws are fastened with corners and self-tapping screws.
- Roof rafters are made of a board of 40 mm, rafter steps from 0.5 to 1 meter, depending on the snow load in the region. On the beam of the upper strapping are fastened by means of nagelj beams overlap from a board of 40 mm, to it the rafter legs at an angle to each other are fastened. Strengthen the rafters with the help of puffs and struts, depending on the size of the roof.
- The rafters are laid with a water vapor barrier film, for example, Isospan. On top of the film, a crate is fastened from the board 20 mm along the ridge along both slopes, the step of the battens is 0.5 meters.
- Floor coverings are made of a board of 40 mm, they are installed on the lower strapping. The floors are made of a floorboard laid on the floors. The frame of the gate is made of a block of 10x10 cm, fastening them with dowels and reinforcing the metal corners. While giving additional rigidity to the gates, transverse ties are made. The finished carcass of the garage is covered with antiseptic in two layers, after which you can proceed to the plating.
Garage cladding with metal profile and garage insulation
The choice of metal profile for garage plating has many advantages: metal coatings are fireproof, windproof, have high strength and durability. Metal profiles are attached to the frame by means of special screws. They have a hex head, a sealing washer and come in different lengths and colors. For walls, choose a wall metal profile of grade C or PS, and for a roof - grade PC or N.
- Begin the paneling from the walls. Apply a sheet of metal to one of the corner posts, align it with a plumb and fix it with screws into the lower wave. The next sheet is overlapped on one wave and fixed with screws, both sheets together. A total of 4-5 screws are required per 1 square meter of skin. The gate is covered with the same wall metal profile.
- If necessary, the metal profile is cut to size with metal scissors or an electric jigsaw. To cut it with a Bulgarian is not recommended, as it burns the polymer coating, and the corrosion resistance of the metal is sharply reduced.
- Before laying the cover on the roof, it is necessary to install the windshields. The metal profile is laid on the roof on the leeward side, fixing it together with the windings to the crate. A metal crochet is fastened after the sheets are laid so that the screw enters the upper wave.
- Warming of the garage is carried out at will. For this purpose, stone wool, made in the form of mats, is used. The mats are laid between the posts, previously fixing the windproof film on the walls. Fix mats filing from the board or immediately sheathe the sheet iron.
- Instead of a metal profile and a heater, ready-made sandwich panels can be used for the construction of a garage, which are prefabricated elements with an external profiled covering, heat mats and an internal smooth metal sheet.
The frame garage can also be made from a metal corner trimmed with corrugated board. This garage is heavier, and requires the use of a welding machine, but it is safer in the fire-fighting plan. However, if repair and welding works are planned in the garage, the garage from the corrugated board on the metal frame is more reliable.