Lags for the floor with your own hands

Traditional log material - wooden beam

The wooden design also varies. It is most convenient to use, of course, "flattened" into the required size of a flat wooden beam - with it and assembly, and setting the required level is much easier. You can use the boards by placing them on the edge and, if necessary, by typing in the required thickness of the lag from several -connected parts. in some cases, it is more profitable for builders to use to produce a rustle, but this will require to compress at least on one side - for a flat fit of floorboards or slats .

Do logs and out of the roundwood, but good carpentry skills are needed.

Wood may be losing something in cement coating, but nevertheless , the floor structure on the lags gives many significant advantages:

• First of all, with the same height lifting floor, the construction with lags is incomparably lighter than concrete, even if lightweight compounds with thermal insulation fillers are used.
• With proper assembly, the floor on the logs is obtained ventilated, which is very important for the preservation of the floor covering.
• Between lags it is very easy to place hidden communications - pipes or wiring. If necessary, access to them for the prevention or elimination of an accident is much easier.

Cables laid between the ladders

• The presence of communications does not interfere with effective insulation of the floor - the niches between the lags "ask themselves" for laying thermal insulation material in them.

The floor on the logs is easy to insulate

• With lag it's not difficult to align the floors with perfect horizontal even with very significant level differences. At the same time( in contrast to concrete floors), the material consumption practically does not increase.

The floor is easily leveled even with very strong level differences

• In addition to the insulation qualities, the floor on the lags has a much more efficient sound attenuation .
• Logs very evenly distribute and transmit static and dynamic loads to the base. The apparent simplicity of the design does not in any way diminish the strength of the created floor.
• The floor on the logs is easier to repair - enough, after removing the cover, if necessary, just replace the with damaged parts.
• The construction with ladders, according to the large account, can be used for almost any type of flooring - it can be not only wood, but also any roll material, or, if appropriate technologies, even ceramic tiles.

Electric and water heating of floors on logs

• Floors on logs are often blamed for the fact that they do not fit well with water or resistive heating systems. However, technologies have now been developed that allow any of the systems of the warm floor to be built on such a coating - resistive, infrared or from a water heating circuit.

How to create mini-storage in an apartment?

With a large height of the wooden floor above the base, for example on the balcony, this space can also be used for economic purposes.

Read about this in the article devoted to questions, how to make cellar on balcony .

Material for log , cross-section, step and direction laying

As already mentioned, the optimal lumber for making logs is a bar cut into special equipment with exact dimensions - width and height. Usually for these purposes, not too expensive wood is used - pine, spruce, fir .Very good performance and longevity shows larch, but the details of it will cost much more expensive.

For lag does not necessarily choose wood of the highest or first grade - it will be quite the second one. To the third-grade bar, with a large number of knots, should be treated with a very large degree of caution: yet the lags are the bearing parts, and not the appearance, but the strength properties they must be at the height. Do not allow cracks, rotten, blue places - such lags do not last long.

Particular attention to the geometric correctness of workpieces - deformed, twisted, curved beams will be extremely difficult to set one level at a time.

The best option is if the sawn timber has already dried on specialized lines, and their residual moisture content does not exceed 12%.True, this material and the house will need to create appropriate storage conditions before installation. Uneven bars with a moisture content of more than 15 ÷ 18% should not be mounted - they can be shattered during final drying, which often leads to the general deformation of the structure, the appearance of unstable zones, creaks and on the floor.

Dimensions of the beams are of great importance

Usually for lag the beam is selected from the proportion that the height of the part is one and a half ÷ two its thickness.

h = 1.5 ÷ 2 × a

But still, " from what begin to dance"?What specific cross-section of the beam is required in this or that situation? Here you need to evaluate several criteria.

• If you intend to mount a boarded floor finish on the logs, then start should most likely be with the planning of the location of the beams. The fact is that the wooden floor is laid by all the rules so that the seams between the boards are parallel to the direction of the natural lighting of the room. Thus, the location of the log in the adjacent rooms can differ:

The position of the log and the floorboards in relation to the natural light source

The diagram shows:

1 - the walls of the building.

2 - entrance doors to the premises.

3 - windows and direction of the natural light flow( wide pink arrows )

4 - logs. As can be seen, their direction can differ.

5 - finishing boards, always laid perpendicularly to the lags.

If it is planned to lay the sheet material on the logs as a base for the subsequent finish coating, the orientation of the location of the key logs will not be.

• The next question is to decide how many lags are required for each room. In other words, it is necessary to determine the step of their installation( the distance between two adjacent parallel lags).

This parameter is directly related to the thickness of the board that will be used to install the finishing floor. There are certain norms that are shown with the table below :

Knowing which material will be used for the floor, it will be easy to calculate the number for the required lag and accuratebetween them. The step is definitely most likely will be expressed not round number, but it can only be rounded down. If necessary, lags at the walls can be laid and with a smaller step - the strength of the construction from this will only benefit.

• Now you can determine and with the cross-section of the beam. The main criterion for evaluation when installing the floor in a private house, without a concrete foundation - the distance between the support points, that is - the length span lag.

Howthe cross-section of the beam is directly proportional to the length of the span of the span, and sometimes reaches very significant values. With a large size of the room may require very powerful beams, and this is a weighting of the structure, and a significant increase in costs for sawn timber.

Logs with intermediate supports - columns

Therefore, for large spans it is often practiced to install additional supports, for example, brick posts. This measure greatly reduces the required cross-section of the logs:

The values ​​of the cross sections given in the tables are minimal, and they can vary, but only in a larger direction. For example, it happens that it is required to increase the height of the of the lag itself. This happens when it is necessary to make a high-quality thermal insulation of the floor, and means , it is planned to lay a thick layer of insulation. The height of the lag for the structure assembled on the principle of rough and finish of the floor ( the scheme of such floor is given and described below), in this case will be summed from the thickness of the cranial bar, the rolling( rough floor boards )insulation material and ventilation gap. Well, the width of the lag with this remains table.

For lag , which are installed on a concrete base, directly on it or on racks( pads) with a pitch between them of the order of 500 mm, such sections are not required. Here enough logs 50 mm thick, and height is determined depending on the required height lifting surface( there is a restriction - not less than 40 mm).The main thing is to choose the right step, about than already mentioned above.

To complete the question with the selection and preparation of the material, it is necessary to mention the still one important point. The fact is that wood, as an organic natural material, is subject to decomposition with time - it can begin to dry out, rot, rot. In addition, the tree is a favorite nutrient medium for of a number of "representatives" of microflora( molds, fungi, bacteria), insects and even rodents. Thus, to ensure the durability of the construction of the floor, its details should be subjected to special treatment.

Antiseptic impregnation of combined action

There are many ready-made formulations for this. Many of them, for example, very popular among the builders " Pirilaks ", combine a dual function. In addition to giving wood antiseptic qualities and treatment against existing biological lesions, they dramatically increase its fire resistance, because they contain flame retardants .

The treatment is carried out after the preparation of the composition in the required consistency( most often - it is already ready for use).Apply the impregnation by brush, aerosol spray, and small parts - just dipped in capacity with a solution. Approximate minimum waste flow d For only antiseptic treatment, d - about 100 ml / m² of the surface area of ​​the blanks. It is recommended to double-treat - the first layer is allowed to soak and dry( at positive air temperatures, this will take for about an hour), and then the treatment is repeated.

Saw-timber after processing

For giving the wood the expressed fire-resistant qualities, the expense at processing increase approximately to 180 ÷ 280 ml / m², and the demanded expense is provided with several layers of drawing. A flow increase of up to 400 ml / m²( also , layer by layer) makes wood difficult to fire - fire resistance class G1, flame propagation - RP 1 , smoke - D2.

Before machining the beams for log , they must be cleaned of dirt and dust, lime, paint and , as .There is no sense in treating the dried wood - firstly, the composition itself will be very poorly absorbed, and secondly, will disrupt the process of normal natural drying of the material. The maximum permissible humidity before treatment is 25%, although at this extreme level the quality of the treatment will not be the same.

Installation of a log on the first floor of a private house "on primer "

The term "on the ground" occurs quite often, but it must be understood that, of course, in an overwhelming number of cases, the lag is in no way connected to the ground surface. They can be attached to the beam of the lower crown, with the help of connecting metal parts or by cutting.

Fastening the log to the beams of the corners

Another option - the logs are laid on the ends of the foundation tape or grillage. In this case, a layer of waterproofing is always laid. Usually, a ruberoid is used for this purpose. If it is less than 3 mm thick, then it should be laid in two layers.

On each side of the lag, the grillage, tape or lint beams must be at least 100 mm on a horizontal plane.

Possible option of installing the log

1 - foundation tape.

2 is the wall of the building.

3 - a layer of waterproofing material - roofing material.

4 - bottom trim harness.

5 - logs.

6 - mandatory clearance between the ends of the log and walls - at least 20 mm.

7 - corners for fixing logs to the bar of the strapping.

This variation of nt in is impossible, if the span of the log is not too large. If the dimensions are the same, you will need a bar of the corresponding section of the , but it also may not provide a guarantee that, in time, the will not start to bend slightly . Therefore , will become the optimal variant of .

They are located along the axis of the lag. The distance from the wall of the first column is approximately 500 mm, and the rest is set at equal intervals with a step of at least 1 meter( see table above).

Bars also need a foundation. It can be for each support individual. ..

Stand-alone supports-columns

. .. or for a number of supports are filled with a common tape.

The bars are laid out on the common foundation tape

1 - the foundation foundation tape of the building.

2 - shallow basement under support.

2a - strip foundation under the row of supports.

3 - bricks made of bricks.

4 - logs.

In the vertical projection, it will look something like this:

Bar chart - side view

1 - compacted primer under the house. Sometimes practice cleaning from the ground and pouring a rough concrete solution, with a heater( expanded clay or expanded polystyrene crumb) or without it. However, it is better to fill it when the supports are already erected.

2 is a "lock" made of compacted clay or a layer of waterproofing( roofing material).

3 - sand cushion.

4 - compacted gravel backfill.

5 - concrete foundation under the column.

6 - waterproofing layer( ruberoid )

7 is a brick-built pillar of the required height.

8 - lag.

The construction of such a structure is carried out in the following order.

• First, cut the fertile soil layer over the entire area inside the foundation( if it has not been cut before).Surface must be compacted as much as possible, fill with gravel and seal "tightly" with clay or concrete. The idea is that the building should not be diluted with dampness and dirt, the probability of sprouting of plants should be excluded.
• The marking lines on the foundation tape( grillage, timber of the strapping) stretch out to the points - they determine the location of the future location of the logs.
• Tightened perpendicularly to the first cords are marked the centers of the position of the columns of supports with the selected step between them. In these places, cubic pits for a punctual foundation are digging, with sides 400 × 400 mm, and the same depth. At the bottom of the bed is covered with a layer of sand( about 50 mm), and then - gravel. Both pillows are successively tamped.
• Waterproofing on the walls. If the groove nt from the is too loose, then you can make the formwork of thin boards or plywood. Usually the foundation "penny" is poured so that it protrudes above the surface of the ground by at least 100 mm.

Filled foundation piles for posts

• A concrete mortar is being prepared, foundation points( or tape) are poured, leveled, and left to strength( will have to wait about 4 weeks for the ).

How quickly does the poured foundation ripen?

This parameter is more dependent on the ambient temperature. Seasonality of work determines the differences in the approach to pouring concrete and care for it during the ripening period.

This question is full of nuances with which the reader can read in a special article of our portal " At what temperature it is possible to fill the foundation of ".

• When the foundation areas are completely ready, they are covered with a roofing material, and the brickwork is laid from above. Usually, two bricks in a row are enough for this. Naturally, the rows fall " in the dressing ", on the mortar with a strength of not less than M100( 4 parts of sand per cement ).For bricks, you can not use silicate bricks - you should purchase the red calcined , which is not afraid of moisture.

Post bars ready

• When the masonry solution is completely solidified, you can move on. All columns are necessarily covered with waterproofing - roofing material, usually in two layers. In addition, it is recommended to lay and soundproof gasket on the , with a width greater than the lag thickness of at least 10 mm on each side. The thickness of the gasket is about 10 to 40 mm, but they are made from plywood, a special self-expanding sealing tape, pieces of cork substrate and , such as .
• You can proceed with the installation of the log. However, if is planned to insulate the floor, their should slightly refined. To each lag or from the bottom, or on the sides in the lower part screwed cranial scales bruski. They will become the basis for laying down on them boards of rolling - rough floor.
• The finished logs are laid out in places. The correctness of the level of their location , both along, and across the is checked. The easiest way to fix the logs is to the foundation tape, grillage bar or trim bar using metal corners, while keeping in mind that there should be a gap from the wall of about 20 mm.

Variant for fixing the lag on the foundation tape

• It is very important that the for the plane of the log is vertical, to make the a flat horizontal platform, without slope, for further tight fitting of the floorboards. There is no need to fasten lags to the posts - the main thing is that they should be packed tightly on them, without the possibility of sagging or vibrating. If necessary, additional gaskets are installed between the pole and the beam.
• Once the logs are installed, you can proceed to installation of the rough floor, insulation and further work on assembling the general wooden floor construction:

Approximate structure of the insulated floor on the logs

1 - lag.

2 - cranial bars, usually a cross section from 40 to 50 mm.

3 - boards of rough floor( rolling).Here it will be quite appropriate and low-grade material, however, also passed the appropriate impregnation. The boards are laid close to each other or with a small gap, if the insulation is not used expanded clay.

4 - a layer of waterproofing. Completely is suitable( not less than 200 microns) polyethylene film .She must close both the planks of the rough floor and the logs.

5 - insulation layer - mineral wool, eco-wool , expanded polystyrene or expanded clay.

6 - diffuse membrane, acting as a waterproof barrier, but not interfering with the free release of water vapor from the heater.

7 - boards of a clean floor.

8 - if necessary, then any topcoat can be laid on top of the boards( or plywood).

Do you want the floor in the wooden house to be warm ?

This publication is mostly devoted to the independent installation of logs. And more in detail to get acquainted with with secrets warming of a floor in the wooden house it is possible in a special article of our portal.

For the sake of justice it should be noted that that sometimes lags are used only for leveling the floor surface, provided that that it is already and without that is already insulated, and the basement cap tanks themselves are located quite often, providing the necessary step. The simplest method of fixing the lag in this case is directly on the beams themselves. The beams or log boards are set exactly at the specified horizontal level, and then scrolled by powerful self-tapping screws to the beams.

The simplest method of fixing the lag to the beams of the socle floor

1 is the beams of the basement or interstorey floor.

2 - logs.

3 - self-tapping screws.

The red arrow points to a single horizontal level of the log.

Video: insulated floor on logs in frame house

Installation of lag on concrete base

Wooden floors can be completely laid in apartments or houses where the foundation is either a reinforced concrete slab or a powerful insulated screed arranged on the ground. However, even if the surface of the base is almost perfectly smooth and horizontal( which is very infrequent), laying the floor boards directly on the does not require .It is better to mount the log system, and then proceed with to install one or another cover.

About the dimensions and location of the lag add in this case there is nothing - everything is already painted above. So, the main points will be the reliable fixing of the beams to the concrete base and putting them in the required "zero" level.

How correctly to plan the "zero" level of the future sex?

If a laser level is available, then there is no problem. But what to do to the person who does this for the first time and does not have this expensive device?

Very detailed nuances of marking the "zero" level are described in the article dedicated to filling screed with expanded clay .

The easiest way to install the log is directly on the concrete base. This is possible in the event that there are no perceptible differences in height, the finish coating does not require the to rise level, there is no need for strong thermal insulation.

In this case, lags of strictly one section are simply laid out along the planned lines of marking. Between them and the concrete surface it is recommended to lay a strip of Fiberboard , treated with the already mentioned antiseptic composition.

Floor scheme with insulation - very similar to the given by above, and there is no point in painting its .The only difference is that there are no cranial bars and planks of the rough floor.

Insulated floor on logs on concrete base

1 - concrete floor base.

2 - logs.

3 - spacer from fiberboard

The further numbering completely repeats the first scheme.

Fasten the logs of the to the floor of the with the help of corners that are attached to the wood with self-tapping screws, and to the screed with dowels or anchors.

Fastening the log to the floor with corners

You can also use dowels with a hairpin upper part for fastening. In this case, in the logs of the log, round grooves are milled, where the washer and nut will hide.

Anchor bolt for fastening logs

Logs are located on the floor with taking into account the of the calculated pitch so that the distance from the first timber to the parallel wall is about 30 ÷ 50 mm, and the end ends do not reach the walls by 20 mm.

The situation is somewhat more complicated if requires the leveling of the lag in one plane, , especially , if needs to significantly raise the floor for one reason or another. Previously, almost the only available method for the to achieve the targets were wooden pads( from pieces of board, plywood and . )

Setting the lag to the desired level with the help of pads - horror long "yesterday"

	The structural support element is a U-shaped bracket.
	For the binding of logs with cross-pieces, metal corners will be needed.
	The first thing, as always, is cleaning the surface of the base. If there are cracks, they should be fixed with a mounting foam. It will not be superfluous to cover the concrete base with a deep penetration primer - less dust and additional waterproofing.
	Marking is performed. The logs along the walls are planned so that a distance of approximately 50 mm is maintained( from the side of the log to the wall).
	The lines of the location of the lag are located along the planned risks.
	Immediately there is a line for installing the middle lag( center), as well as the jumper mounting locations. In this case, it is taken into account that if the plywood coating consists of two or more sheets, the junctions should be exactly on the jumpers.
	Bracket mounting locations are planned. The step between them on the same lag is 500 mm. On the bridge, one bracket is sufficient in the center.
	In the floor are drilled holes for dowels to install brackets.
	Brackets are attached to the surface of the concrete base. It is necessary to monitor the smoothness of the installation - so that the U-shaped bracket is not rotated with respect to the center line.
	The first row of brackets for the extreme lag is installed.
	The floor is meant insulated, and the thermal insulation issues will have to be dealt with in parallel with the installation of the log, otherwise it will be problematic later. Slots are cut in the strip of mineral wool in such a way that the shelves of the bracket come into them. It turns out a single insulating layer, and the metal in this case will not become a bridge of cold.
	The lag bar is inserted. From one edge it is set at a given height and temporarily fixed by a single screw.
	Go to the opposite side of the lag. The beam is exposed strictly horizontally, and is also fixed with a screw.
	When installing beams along the walls there is one catch - they can not be fixed to the screws on the wall side. The output is - in each of the brackets, directly through the lag installed in it, two holes of 6.5 mm are drilled. Insert bolts M6, and tighten the nut from the side of the wall - it is not difficult to do this with a wrench.
	This will look like each of the brackets with a lag along the wall.
	Similarly, a number of brackets and lag are mounted on the opposite side. The main thing is to control that the bars are strictly on one horizontal level.
	The row of brackets for the central lag is fixed.
	In this place the beam is easier to fix - the walls do not interfere. After laying the same as before, thermal insulation, it is leveled and firmly fixed on both sides by screws.
	Three lines of lag are exposed. They can withstand a vertical load, but there is no stability at the side. To eliminate this drawback, you need to link them with jumpers.
	For a jumper, as already mentioned, one bracket is enough. After installation, the insulation layer is laid.
	cut into the right size piece of timber is put in place and fixed to the lags strictly in level with the help of corners and screws. ..
	and then attached to the bracket.
	The distance between the jumpers is about 600 mm, but with the future joints of the plywood sheets. The frame assembly is finished.
	You can proceed to the final warming. To begin with, the mined fill the remaining "windows". ..
	. .. and then from above, if necessary, you can also lay the second continuous layer.
	The sheet of plywood is being cut, the workpieces are laid on the logs. In this case, it is necessary to immediately outline the lines for which the screws will be screwed.
	The plywood sheets are attached with self-tapping screws, so that the heads are slightly "drowned" by 0.5 ÷ 1 mm in its surface. The distance between the fastening elements is 150 ÷ ​​200 mm.
	It turned out to be a very even and solid base for laying any type of finishing floor. In addition, if you want to create a comfortable microclimate on the balcony in winter, then before the flooring can be mounted film heaters.
Illustration of	Brief description of operation

	The prepared logs are folded in a "package", aligned at the edges. Points are made in which the racks will be installed. At the same time, the rule is observed - the extreme marks from the edge of the log should be approximately 50 ÷ 70 mm, and the approximate pitch between the supports 550 ÷ 600 mm. A 25 mm drill bit is inserted into the drill. They cut out grooves approximately 15 mm.
	To maintain the accuracy of the depth of the sample, either make a sharp mark on the drill, or set the depth stopper to the drill. These holes are milled in all the lags.
	Further, in the drill chuck the drill is changed to the usual, Ø 10.5 mm. Precisely on the centers of the selected depressions the bars are drilled through and through.
	In order for the washer to fit tightly over its entire surface to the wood, the grooves are machined with a round cutter Ø26 mm. The result is even cylindrical grooves with a depth of 15 mm with a through hole in the center.
	Next, the logs must be decomposed exactly along the marking lines.
	The lag tightly presses against the floor surface, and through the previously made holes with a perforator, holes in a concrete screed are marked or drilled at once. It is necessary to work carefully, so that by chance the brown can not turn the wood.
	To prevent the lag from shifting from its place, after drilling each hole, it can be temporarily fixed with metal pins - for example, long thick nails.
	When the holes in the floor along the entire length of the lag are indicated, the pins are removed, the bar is removed to the side. From it the concrete garbage formed during drilling is shaken out. If necessary, the holes in the floor are deepened by the perforator( about 60 mm, and then the anchor parts of the studs are inserted in them.)
	The anchor nut is tightened, causing the stud to "dead" to stand upright
	After all the studs in the row are installedand fixed by anchors, they are wound on one nut so that they are located about 50 mm below the level of the future coating. Then one washer is put on top of the nut.
	After similar manipulatorsand made with all the studs of the row, you can put a bar of logs on them The holes in the lag must match exactly with the posts
	In the same way, they enter with all the other lags
	Then, on the overhanging part of the studs, put on the washer,nut It is not necessary to tighten it yet.
	The most important moment is setting the lags on a single horizontal level. The height can be adjusted by twisting the bottom nut in one direction or another. With each rack work individually, using a laser or conventional building level. When adjusting, make sure that the lag is firmly pressed against the lower washer.
	After the level on the stand is guaranteed to be precisely set, the upper nut can be tightened securely, thereby fixing the bar.
	And during the work on the lagging, and after its completion, a thorough level control, both longitudinal and transverse direction. ..
	. .. and diagonally.
	When all racks are fixed, it is necessary to cut off the excess parts of the studs with a grinder. Work very carefully to avoid damaging the wooden parts.
	Similar supports, in spite of seeming "flabbiness", possess excellent stability. Each of them, with proper installation, can withstand loads of up to 700 kg. For the rigidity of this design, no transverse bridges are required. You can immediately go to the installation of plywood coating.
Illustration	Brief description of the operation

It would seem that the method is extremely simple, but it's not very convenient to call it , especially if the level of or the height difference is high. Precisely fit the desired height of the support - is very difficult, often for this requires additional individual adjustment of wooden fragments. Multilayer stands need to be glued or twisted, but it's not the attached to the design of the high rigidity .A large footprint on the uneven, bumpy floor leads the to the instability of the its position. In a word, it is very problematic to achieve high accuracy and guaranteed stability of the log system with this approach.

Therefore, modern masters increasingly resort to the so-called adjustable lag systems. With this approach, the lugs are attached to supports, which in one way or another allow you to adjust the height of the level on each of the supports. It can be the simplest U-shaped brackets with holes for fixing the beam at a selected height, or threaded systems, the height of which the still has is easier to change - by turning the nut or screw stand.

Some variants of adjustable log

The figure shows only two types of adjustable racks, although in fact there are significantly more. It is simply impossible to consider everything on the scale of one article, so a step-by-step process of installing only two systems will be shown, with a U-shaped bracket and threaded studs.

System of lag for insulated floor on U-shaped brackets

For the construction of this floor, steel zinc-plated brackets with a height of 167 mm are used. They are designed for the installation of lag from the beam section of 40 × 70 mm.

Beam in a U-shaped bracket

For an example - the process of creating an warm floor on a balcony or loggia.

Installing the lag on threaded studs

Another one method of accurate lagging, which has gained great popularity . Schematic, in a section, the principle of fastening is shown in the figure:

Principle of installation of the log on the threaded stud

The main support element is a threaded stud M8.Standard its length is 200 mm, of which 40 mm is occupied by a spacer anchor with a diameter of 10 mm.

Size and completeness of the

rack The kit includes two reinforced washers under the M8 with an external diameter of 24 mm and a metal thickness of 2 mm, and two self-locking M8 nuts with nylon rings to each rack. For the lag , the usually uses an timber with a cross-section of 50 × 70 mm.

The tools will need a drill bit with a drill bit for concrete Ø10 mm, an electric drill( powerful screwdriver ), a drill usual in wood for 10.5 mm, a feather - for 25 mm, a cutter for the selection of round grooves Ø 26 mm will be useful. To tighten the nuts, you can use the usual carabiners and spanners on the key 13, but it will be more convenient and faster to work if you can find a tubular socket wrench of the same size that can be clamped into the cartridge of the screwdriver. To reconcile the horizontal, you will need a level - ideally - a laser, but you can do the usual.

We will not dwell on markup and surface preparation issues - they have already been considered earlier, and in the this case is almost the same.

To complement the overall picture, you can mention the in a casual about one type of threaded racks for logs.

Plastic threaded adjustable stands for logs

They are hollow polymeric cylinders, with the external side of which is carved. At the bottom of the rack there is an opening for fixing the its to the with a semi-dowel , and in the upper part is made a hexagon for rotating the with its with a special key.

Screwing the rack into the

In the logs, the bores are drilled with the holes of the desired diameter, in the which first rolls the thread, and then the screws are screwed into them.

After installing the lag and fixing the racks to the with semi-dowels , rotate to the desired level. Then the excess part of the plastic rack is simply cut off with a chisel or knocked down with a chisel.

Cutting off the excess of the plastic rack after alignment of the

Similar to the stands in the its time was made very wide advertising, but, however, the network was immediately filled and not the most enthusiastic reviews about them. The masters complained about the fragility of the screw cylinders, the difficulty of screwing them into the wood, the unreasonable system of fixing to the floor surface and the .

However, the author of this publication did not have to mount such a system, nor to observe the of its in operation. Therefore, it is more reasonable to refrain from subjective assessments, and it is better to lay out a video about such racks for logs.

Video: installation of the adjustable log system

What is the finishing coat for the floor to choose?

If the floor is lined with plywood or OSB, then the owners, in principle, are not limited to in the choice of the finish coat. laminate , parquet , solid board , linoleum will be quite appropriate. Selection recommendations and installation instructions - on the pages of our portal. A lot of subtleties are stored and technology of wooden floor painting .