Each laminate manufacturer recommends mounting on a hard and level surface. This is due to the small thickness of the panels, which can break in the places where underneath there are grooves. In addition, the laminate, laid on an uneven floor, shifts, creaks violently, joints( both lock and glue) are rapidly destroyed, there is a possibility of cracks in the panels.
Laying the laminate on the uneven floor photo
Types of irregularities and how to detect them
Types of unevenness: cracks and crevices( do not affect the laminate, so they can not be sealed);unevenness in the form of sags, a significant difference in height between the boards, slabs or on the concrete screed.
Methods for detecting unevenness of the rough floor:
- - Defects are easy to identify with a hydraulic level. To do this, the risk level flask should be applied to the wall surface, to combine the water level with the risk and draw a mark that will be zero. With the help of another hydraulic bulb, it is necessary to repeat the operation throughout the room, marking the walls every 2-3 meters. To expose the control marks, in the floor we drill the holes and screw the screws so that the water level in the first bulb is equal to the screws screwed into the floor.
Detect roughness of rough floor with hydraulic level
- - If the accuracy of the result is not satisfactory, you can use the laser level and tape measure.
- - In the absence of a laser level, defects can be easily detected by a building level of more than two meters in length, applying it to the floor and noting the gap between the floor and the level itself.
Define defects using the
construction level. Now that the irregularities have been identified, it is necessary to eliminate them, taking into account the material of your rough floor.
Leveling of unevenness with the
substrate This method is applicable in case when the floor irregularities are insignificant or the base is linoleum( it is not recommended to leave old, too soft or loose linoleum under the laminate).
The substrate is laid perpendicular to the direction of future laminated panels. Optimal thickness is 2-4 mm. In addition to compensating for irregularities, the substrate is additionally noise and waterproof, and also has the necessary damping properties.
Types of substrates for laminate:
- Isolon or expanded polyethylene;
- Polystyrene( consists of directly polystyrene and aluminum foil layer, which must be on top when laying);
- Non-traditional substrates( polymeric porous mass, expanded polystyrene based materials, wood-based tiles);
- Cork technical substrates( realized in rolls, requires the application of moisture-resistant materials - bitumen mastic, rubber, polyethylene).
The substrate is usually realized in rolls with thickness from one meter to one and a half.
Video substrate for laminate
Leveling of unevenness of the floor with various mixes
To eliminate irregularities and prepare the roughing floor for laying the laminate, you can use either self-leveling floors or cement mixture with sand ( proportions 1: 4).The components are mixed in a dry state, gradually adding water. Between the prepared screws screwed into the floor, the threads are stretched, forming "paths" on the floor. With a shovel and trowel the mixture is spread over the tracks, then, using the rule( metal profile) and level, the entire mixture is leveled over the floor surface.
Floor leveling with concrete screed photo
is a much less time-consuming, self-expanding quick-hardening mix ( filler floor).This solution is prepared according to the instructions on the package, poured a layer from 1 to 7 mm onto the primed and waterproof floor surface and then repeatedly rolled with a needle roller until the upper layer hardens. The time for complete drying is from three hours to three days.
Wood floor leveling
Curving
If you have decided to lay a laminate on wooden floorboards, you can even align the old covering with a bending machine. It cuts the top of the wooden boards, maximally leveling the surface. Before work it is necessary to deepen all the nails and screws in the floorboards so that the knives of the sewing machine do not become unusable.
In case when old boards are rotten, it is recommended to completely replace the wooden floor and logs. It is necessary to purchase logs or wooden bars and plywood sheets.
- - Completely dismantle the old floor.
- - We lay the hydro- and noise-insulating substrate.
- - Set the logs in steps of 40-50 cm, controlling the horizontal level.
- - Screws every 50 cm into the plywood on the logs.
Floor repair with plywood
Removal of irregularities with PVA glue and sawdust
This method is only applicable for the elimination of non-essential floor defects.
- - Using the level, set the guides on the old floor.
- - We pour PVA glue into the sawdust and mix it. The mixture should not be too liquid.
- - Fill the mixture with the entire space between the guides.
- - After shrinkage of the first layer, repeat the procedure two or three more times.
- - When the substrate dries, we top the sheets of thin plywood, fixing them with screws with a countersunk head.
Laying the laminate on the uneven floor-instruction
Now that the floor has been prepared and has no irregularities exceeding 2 mm per square meter of area, we lay the polyethylene film( a flap on the walls 4-5 cm), fixing it with adhesive tape, on top of it we lay the substrate,the edges of which are fixed with adhesive tape. For convenience, polyethylene and a substrate can be glued to the floor with a double-sided adhesive tape. The laminate itself does not require this action.
Video - laying a laminate on an uneven floor
Tools for work:
- - hammer;
- - small-toothed hacksaw;
- - construction knife;
- - metal bracket( to adjust the laminate and protect its edges from blows with a hammer);
- - a lug made of plastic, metal or trimming a laminated board;
- - dowels;
- - sealant for laminate and, if necessary, glue.
Installation of the
floor laminate flooring The first row should be started from the far corner of the room, on the left side. Near the walls we set the wedges so that the gap is constant. The first laminated board is laid with a thorn towards the wall. The second panel of the first row is held at an angle of forty-five degrees, insert into the groove of the first panel( lock click or lock) and put it on the floor. We continue to work until the boards reach the opposite wall. At the end of the row, using a bracket, press the boards together, then insert the wedge.
The second row is assembled in the same way as the first one, and then we insert the assembled second row into the locks of the first row. Hammered the boards to eliminate the slightest gaps between them.
Layout scheme for laminate photo
To increase the strength of the joint, you can use the adhesive for laminate coating, applying a thin layer on the locking joint. After assembling each row, we pause for 15-20 minutes, after every 4 rows we increase the pause to two hours. Excess excess adhesive immediately removed with a clean rag. This method of mounting increases its moisture resistance. However, in case there is a need for dismantling, it will be more difficult to do this.
Small errors in the form of gaps between the boards are closed, rubbing with a spatula sealant for the laminate. After drying, we remove the surplus with a sandpaper.
Skirting board
In the last place we collect plinth. To fix skirting boards it is necessary or glue, or using screws or dowel-nails.
Fastening of skirting board
