On how the paths on the countryside will be designed, the whole design depends to a large extent. Even in such conditions, when it is not possible to perform the laborious and expensive work, you can choose more affordable options that are developed and already tested by folk craftsmen.
You can make tracks on the dacha with your own hands from a wide variety of materials by selecting the appropriate option from the below. For example, for these purposes, an ordinary brick or round logs, written from the logs , round, medium sized pebbles or ordinary plugs from plastic bottles, are ideal for these purposes. There are also detachable variants of tracks that can be stacked exclusively for the summer period. By the way, such tracks can also be purchased not only in ready-made form, but also made independently.
In any case, before laying any garden paths, , it is necessary to carry out preparatory work.
Design on paper
Content of the article
- 1 Design on paper
- 2 Marking on terrain
- 3 Preparing the base for the garden path
- 4 Variety of garden paths for the countryside
- 4.1 Brick path
- 4.2 Video: master class for laying the garden path
- 4.3 Path fromround
- 4.4 Path from circular river stone
- 4.5 Concrete track
- 4.6 Video: example of using the mold for pouring a "paved" track
- 4.7 Hells track of the lids
- 4.8 Prefabricated track of plastic plates
- 4.9 «Garden parquet»
- 4.10 Video: A variety of options for garden paths
Before starting work, it is recommended to start to plan a track on the site. This process can be done using a computer by downloading the corresponding CAD program , or you can simply mark it with a pencil on a piece of paper.
First of all, it is necessary to place the house and farm buildings on a plan schematically, connecting them among themselves and paving the way to the entrance gate - , these will be the main tracks, without which in any case not to do.
Next, you need to schedule paths leading from the house to different areas of the site, for example, to a gazebo, pool, playground or barbecue area.
Next, it determines the location of other auxiliary tracks that can lead to the garden or to the garden, to irrigation connection points, to some trees and other objects.
If necessary, then, having brought the path to the garden or garden, it is necessary to fork its in such a way that it would be convenient to reach every corner of the site in any weather, since the absence of tracks is especially unpleasant for moving on the "bare" ground of during or just after the rain.
Once the project is completed, you can transfer it to the site.
Terrain marking
To determine the width and direction of tracks, it is necessary to make a marking on the terrain. This is especially important if they are kept in certain dimensions in width - for example, laid out from finished tiles or bricks.
Marking is carried out with the help of hammered pegs and cord stretched on them. To make it easier to visually visualize what the direction will look like, and if the width of the path is sufficient, each border on the sides can be slightly spilled with with limestone .
is marked on the terrain. The best option is if you immediately mark the location of the plants with its along with the track, as everything looks different in the terrain than in the project.
On the places of planting bushes and trees that will be located along the path, you can set the tablets or lay out the stones, and the boundaries of the future beds designate with lime .
It should be remembered that the tear-off pit should be slightly wider than the track itself, since in order for it to last for many years, the of its must be protected from both sides by stone or concrete curbs. Whichever material is planned to build the track, such a preparatory part will in any case improve the quality of work and allow the lined path to function for a long time .
After marking, you can start preparatory excavations.
Preparing the base for the garden path
To ensure that the track does not crumble in a year or has not been covered with grass with the same sad outcome, serious preparatory work is necessary. It should be remembered that the path should have a slight bias in one or both directions. In addition, in the side of the slope is a small drainage trench, which will drain water during the rain.
- First of all, from the places where the path will pass, a fertile layer, thickness 15 ÷ 200 mm, is removed. To the depth of the excavation was approximately the same throughout the its length, it is necessary to control its edges using a ruler.
- track. Further, in order to maintain the smoothness of the of the edges of the of the future path, planks are installed inside the entire length of the foundation pit walls, but it is advisable to pour and compact some sand under them.
- If the pit is limited to concrete curbs, then their width should be greater than the height of the boiler wall on 70 ÷ 100 mm. Curbs are exposed on the level, and that they do not budge, they are fixed with reinforcing bars, which drive into the groove nt out trash weights, next to the curbs. The length of the rods should be from 250 to 350 mm, and this segment is hammered by 200 ÷ 300 mm. Remaining above the surface of the ground pin and will hold the border in the desired position.
- If the walls of the excavation are uneven due to excessively loose soil, then will have to drive the reinforcement bars along the walls as well, and then install, by pressing on them, curbs, exposing them to the level and also locking the on the other side of the with pins.
- Further, gravel or gravel mixed with sand or with cement is poured onto the bottom of the excavation. The thickness of this layer can be from 50 to 100 mm after tamping.
- After filling and spreading over the excavation, the resulting surface is periodically moistened and the is carefully cleaned with its rammer.
The type of filling material will largely depend on the overall thickness of the "cushion", from the type of top decorative coating. Also do not forget that between the "pillow" and the upper lining the more should most often be covered with a layer of sand.
Varieties of garden paths for the countryside
As mentioned above, the paths can be constructed from different materials. It is worth considering the installation of some of them in order to determine exactly the choice of the most suitable option.
Brick path
Of brick it turns out enough reliable , long-lasting and aesthetic path. It is laid out, in principle, on the same technology as paving slabs or pavers. To ensure that this track has served for a long time, it is necessary to choose a high-quality clinker brick and to carry out the work of very carefully.
- The basis for the path, with a tamped upper sand layer, you need to smooth with the help of a homemade rule.
rule The rule is made from a board with perfectly smooth and smooth end faces. The board should be 200 mm longer than the width of the path. The corners of the bottom of the board are carved into the thickness of the brick. The upper, longer, uncut pieces of boards, will serve as an emphasis and a stopper when leveling the sand layer.
- When the entire sand layer is leveled, it is possible to proceed with the installation of side bricks in the path that are installed on the edge and are driven halfway across the sand into the sand with a rubber mallet.
- If the device does not have a curb in the path, the side bricks are fixed together with the mortar, and after it has hardened and the formwork is removed, they must be fixed from the outside with reinforcement pins, and then arrange a pile of rubbleyou need to t t thoroughly tamper.
- After installing the side bricks on both sides of the path, you need to determine which pattern will be laid out the middle of the track. The brick can be installed on the end or laid on its wide side.
- To put the rigid hard, you need to put one row along, and the other across the pathway, driving the bricks into the sand one level high with framing. However, for the path to be maximally reliable , advise to fasten brick between itself a cement-based adhesive mortar designed for street work - this will also reduce the risk of wpr growing grass in the gap between the bricks.
It is desirable to put the solution in such a way that it does not come out from above, but remains inside the masonry, and means , it will not require too much.
- After the completion of the laying of the path, the slots between the bricks are filled with sand. To do this, he spills out on the path and with a brush with a long nap is distributed first over one site, then in a different way - and so on until all gaps are filled completely.
The remaining excess of sand is swept off the surface of the same brush .
- Next, when the path will be almost ready, with its of the sides is removed formwork from the boards. On the outer edge of the path is poured rubble of the middle fraction and gently tamped, and above it freely poured more layer of crushed stone.
- Brick for color brightness and prolongation of its service is recommended to be treated with a penetrating primer, and after its drying - to cover with varnish, which is suitable for stone in outdoor conditions.
With some assumption, a variety of such tracks can be those that are laid out of thick paving slabs. How the process is going on - detailed in the video.
Video: master class on the installation of garden track
Path from the round
Variant No. 1
. To "pave" the path with columns, it is necessary to take a dried tree from one of the solid rocks. The rods must have a flat surface, so they need to be cut very carefully.
Then the surface of the hemp is cleaned and leveled.
- grinder. For logging, logs of different diameters are taken, so that it is possible to fill the pit area as densely as possible.
The height of the rods should be twice the height of the pit walls, counting from the compacted gravel , that is, the columns should rise above the surface of the ground, located around the future path by 100 ÷ 130 mm.
- When preforms are prepared, it is necessary to treat their lower part with an antiseptic that protects the wood from biological pests and adversely affects soil moisture.
It is better to do this by installing the hemp in turns in the tank with liquid and leaving for 3 ÷ 4 minutes. On the rest of the surface, the antiseptic is simply applied with a wide brush. Before the is installed in the foundation pit, the round logs are dried thoroughly.
- After drying, hemp is dipped in a "Kuzbass lacquer" for a few seconds - it will perfectly protect the wood from humidity. However, the drawback of this composition is that its structure is destroyed by the action of ultraviolet rays and overheating. Nevertheless, if only the lower part of the stumps is treated, which will be closed by the wall of the excavation, sand, geotextile and rubble, such harmful effects do not threaten.
Replacing the lacquer can serve as a normal heated tar, which when cooling forms on the surface of the hemp enough thick film - it is not afraid of either high temperature or sunlight.
- Prepared round logs from different diameter trunks begin to install on the excavation trowelled compacted on the bottom as follows:
- A small amount of sand is poured into the transverse wall of the excavation at the beginning of the path.
- Then, the first row of the log is installed. It must be well sized to fit as tightly as possible.
- Between logs sand is poured to the level of the top of the pit walls.
- Next, the next row is set and also poured with sand.
- Similar cyclic manipulations continue to the end of the path.
- At the edge of the path, the sand border is filled and tamped.
Variant No. 2
Another one version using round logs-hemp , which is arranged in a complex with crushed stone or gravel.
track. In the this case, only the curb is installed from the hemp, and the remaining steps with the removal of soil, the embankment of sand and the installation of hemp to the walls of the excavation are carried out in the same way as the track completely arrangedfrom churbachkov. Proce ss pr goes in this order:
- At the bottom of the foundation pit, a "cushion" of sand is poured and tamped;
- Then, along the edge of the future track, the stumps are installed, which are driven in one level and poured with sand. The sandy backfill is rammed right next to the bottom of the hedges of the ;
- After the borders of the logs are completely laid out, the entire surface of the track is covered with geotextiles, the edges of of which bend onto hemp on 80 ÷ 100 mm ;
- track. The next stage is a gravel embankment or of medium fractional gravel directly onto geotextile ;
The gravel is spread over the whole area of the track in an even layer. If necessary, the layer increases, since it must be equal in height to the level of the entire site.
The gravel layer should become the second retaining wall for hemp in the curb.
- If the top of the hemp has a different color, but wants to achieve harmony in the design of the track, then they can cover with paint intended for exterior work, and the shade in this case is selected according to the taste of the site owner.
Trail of circular river stone
Paths with amazing curls are obtained from the river Altai stone, which has bluish shades, from very light to dark gray-blue. To make such a miracle track, you need to prepare round and oval smooth stones of different sizes, clean sand, rubber or wooden hammer, cement, sponge, level, and, of course, water.
Preparatory work is carried out in much the same way as when building a brick path, but with small deviations.
The whole process begins with the sorting of stones, as they happen with a small reject. If the flaw is not too large, then it can be hidden by turning the stone smoothly upward.
After touching the stones, you need to select a pattern that is suitable in size to the width of the track, the base under which the is already prepared. If there was not a suitable one, it can be easily compiled by yourself, using as a basis for drawing to the squares, in which the curly shells will perfectly fit.
Variant No. 1
- The prepared sketch is transferred from the sketch. The curl must be placed in the marked square, and it is desirable that this square has from all four sides of the edge, which will not allow the mosaic of to decay.
Since the base is made of crushed stone, the marking can be done with lime.
- The next step is mixing sand with cement, approximately 3: 1 or 4: 1, water is added and a thick mixture is made, from which a rim with a width equal to the length of the pebbles is laid out. The stripes are arranged in small sections to make it easier to equate stones in them.
- The oval stone with rounded edges is folded into a small track - , it is laid on the edge and slightly pressed into the solution.
If the solution has already hardened a little, then to level out all the stones, you can tap on them with a rubber mallet.
- When one of the strips is laid out, its evenness must be checked using the building level - there should not be strong protrusions of the above the general level of the track.
- So, looking into your sketch, row after row, lay out a similar stone mosaic. It can be used as small oval smooth stones, with their installation on the edge, and round, if they fit well into the created pattern.
- In addition, you can use different shades of stones, for example, laying one strip of light stones, another with dark , or making a smooth color transition.
- Depending on the design, stones can be installed in height. The main - maintain constant monitoring with the help of a level.
- After is laid out one of the parts of the mosaic, its watered with a sprayer. This will not only strengthen the congealing solution, but also will wash its surplus from the surface of the mosaic.
- So, dividing the picture into separate parts, gradual, in accordance with the well-planned order , spread out the entire plane, allocated to the for mosaic. In the end, it should be densely filled with stones.
Variant 2
Another option can be called simpler, since the stones are placed immediately in lined wet sand, without the use of cement.
However, in order for the created composition to not crash ahead of time, its it is necessary to spread in a limited space. For this, the curbs with temporary partitions can serve, as the mosaic is laid out in parts, or a kind of formwork made of boards, which is removed only after the sealing of each part.
- So, on the basis with compacted rubble exposed and aligned borders, as well as temporary partitions that will limit the area of work.
- Next, the resulting form is filled with wet sand, rammed and aligned with the rule. The height of the sand cushion should be lower than the curb edges or formwork by 20-30 mm - it is at this height that the stones will remain on the surface, and the aligned mosaic will need to be aligned along the curb.
On the leveled sandy surface, lines are laid on which a mosaic of stone will be laid out.
- It is more convenient to lay out the stones not one at a time, but immediately fold them into the path and, tapping from above with a rubber mallet, deepen to the desired level. If necessary, sand should be additionally moistened.
When carrying out work, the height of the stones must be constantly monitored with the help of a level.
- After laying out the certain mosaic section of the , until the sand is dry, needs another to walk all over the surface with a rubber hammer, and then it is necessary to pour dry sand or mixtures of sand and cement. The surplus of such backfilling is then immediately necessary to sweep the with a brush .
Next, the mosaic should be well sprayed with water using a sprayer.
- After the complete drying of the laid surface, you can another once to walk over surfaces brush .
After a few hours the sand will condense and fall slightly between the stones. After this, repeat the procedure with a padding and by spraying .
- After the next drying of the mosaic, all the stones are washed with a wet sponge.
- The entire composition is wetted daily with water for a week -, this is necessary in order for the track "to gain rigidity ".
- If carries out the work of mounting the mosaic in the open space, then to avoid the its blur with rain, it's best to cover the entire composition with thin foam overnight. He will pass the water, but will not allow the sand to wash out.
- If the work was done in the formwork of the boards, after the completion of the masonry and of its temporary fencing, it is necessary to strengthen the path by encasing the with its with stones or bricks in the form of a curb.
Concrete track
For a concrete track, the marking is carried out in the same way as described above, and then the excavation is performed on the marked section.
Further, along the edges of the path, curbs or formwork are installed, which is set up according to the level and fixed to the outside by pegs or reinforcement bars.
Then, on the bottom of the pit, sand is poured, which is moistened and compacted. The total thickness of the of the consolidated layer should be 60 ÷ 70 mm.
The gravel is poured on top of the compacted sand, which also needs to be compacted.
The reinforcing grille is installed on the rubble, which will make the track much stronger.
Then, one from the can be done in two ways, depending on which track should be produced.
1. If a smooth surface is to be obtained, then a thin concrete mortar is made, which is then poured into the formwork.
- Further concrete is leveled, as usual, by the rule, and in the role of beacons in this case, the formwork flanges will act.
- In the case when concrete is poured into the space between already installed curbs, the rule will need to be made independently, and it should have the same basic shape as the one described in the section on leveling sand when building a brick path.
hardening procedure. - The finished path is strengthened with by the .For this on the another wet surface a thin layer of dry cement crumbles, which is immediately gently rubbed with a grout. You can also use commercially available hardening topping mixes.
2. If a track is planned to be made using a mold that helps simulate the laying of a stone, then the concrete mixture is poured into the formwork in two layers.
- The first layer is poured into half the height of the formwork and is also leveled using the rule. In this case, a coarse solution consisting of cement and gravel is used. The surface should be flat enough, and to achieve this, the is recommended by the to set the beacons of the desired height, and equate the concrete with them.
- After setting the concrete, a mold is installed on its surface and filled with a thin solution. It is aligned with the over the form surface. The form filled with concrete is left to freeze for 3 ÷ 5 days.
- Next, the shape is carefully lifted upwards and placed next to the frozen "stones", completely repeating the process of pouring.
If the form is only one, then the work, of course, will take too long, so using this technology, it is desirable to have at least two similar forms. It should be noted that with their help you can draw not only tracks, but also the floor in the gazebo, the area near the gate or near the garage.
Video: an example of using the mold for pouring " paved " tracks
Garden paths from the covers
Very interesting version of the track - it turns out that its can be made from caps from ordinary plastic bottles. Due to the bright variety of colors, they can be used to make various ornamental drawings that will help decorate the landscape of the garden.
The only difficulty that will be encountered in the way of the master who decided to make this work will be the collection of the required amount of these " mosaic elements" of the future track.
Having decided to do this work, you need to start collecting the covers in advance. While the process is going on with boron, you can think over which pattern to choose for the track and compose its approximate sketch.
You should not wait until completely will meet the desired number of covers for the entire length of the path. Having collected some of their number, you can begin to assemble from them the elements of the future canvas. For example, to assemble fragment , presented in the photo, you will need only 19 covers.
A large number of covers are usually found in the summer on the beach. And btw , from the collection process can get a triple benefit:
- at least a little clean sand beach from foreign objects;
- take a breath of fresh air while walking along the beach;
- get a completely set up material for the manufacture of the track.
- To connect the covers to the desired pattern, you will need a "gypsy" needle, an awl, with an with a wooden handle, and a large amount of fishing line. A wooden handle is needed in connection with the fact that awl the has to be heated on fire so that it is easy to make holes in the lids for their fasteners with each other.
- The holes for the passage of the needle are pierced from the sides of the covers, as shown on the photo above the .
- First the individual elements are assembled, according to the prepared sketch , and when several of them are ready, they are connected together.
- The work on assembling the elements of such a track - is long and laborious, but does not require t t with mine as a foundation for earth or concrete work.
- . When the mat of the covers is completely ready, the place under it is prepared as follows:
- marked erection space, spilled by means of weeds;
- then, on it is laid the prepared mat from the covers;
- on, from the top the track is very easily taped with a rubber hammer;
- in order to get less ground into the surface of the track, it is recommended to install a brick or stone border along the path;
- this removes the top load of the nt in the , about two thirds of the brick, and then the space in the half trench is filled with sand, which is set to the corner and the brick is knocked. The side gaps between the ground and the brick are also filled with sand, which is moistened beforehand.
Prefabricated tracks from plastic slabs
Mobile garden paths can be put quickly without laying a foundation for them, using special plastic panels.
From them it is possible to assemble the footpath of any width , since they have fasteners that will allow them to be connected both along and across the .
Connecting elements of a sufficiently large size give the a rigidity , as each two plates are fastened in two places and serve as a stand-up pedestal.
The advantage of these panels is not only the speed of installation, but also that their surface is absolutely non-slippery, they can withstand such large enough loads, they are very durable in operation.
For the production of slabs, frost-resistant plastic is used, which can withstand not only low temperatures up to - 35 ÷ 40, but also high up to + 45 ÷ 50 degrees. However, leaving such a garden path for the winter does not make much sense - if desired, its can be quickly and easily disassembled, stacked and sent to storage in one of the outbuildings. Tile not will take a lot of space, and in the spring the path does not compose t t ore in the shortest to lay out anew all over the site.
section. The tile has a very convenient size for the - the is 570 × 570 mm wide and the has an thickness of 22 mm.
In addition, the convenience of this tile consists of the still and the fact that it does not accumulate water, since there are longitudinal holes on the surface.
By the way, for the winter period it is possible to lay out a mat from the tile in front of the entrance door - the surface of has corrugated, and means - will not allow you to slip and get injured.
This version of the arrangement of garden paths does not require much effort for installation, as the tile can be laid and on lawn grass, and on the soil surface. If the starts to germinate through the holes of the tile, the path can easily be moved or disassembled, and after getting rid of the t rava, collect and re-put its in place of .
"Garden parquet"
"Garden parquet" - is a rather expensive type of material that is used not only for laying on the plot, but also for flooring in gazebos, on verandas, terraces and balconies.
It has similar characteristics to plastic slabs. This option is great for laying on garden paths - "garden parquet" is also quickly assembled and disassembled, since it has for this purpose special fastenings having their own specific features.
Detailed panels can have different arrangement of the elements making up the of its pattern. They are laid on a compacted gravel mixture or fine fraction crushed stone.
Such a "parquet" made of wood treated with special image and not responding to the usual external "irritants" is produced - it is not afraid of humidity, direct sunlight, temperature changes, biologicalimpact. However, in addition to wood for the manufacture of "garden parquet"( relatively inexpensive models), a special plastic is used, which perfectly imitates a natural tree. It is clear that the second variation nt pl parquet is much more accessible for the average host site
So, there is a very large number of options for the arrangement of country cottages. After a careful review, you can always choose a suitable for the price, design and complexity of independent execution of all works. Therefore, if it is time to plan the site, you need to carefully think through all the nuances and calculate your strengths and opportunities.