Thermal insulation of the pitched roof at the initial stage
Knowing how much precipitation falls on the roofs of houses in almost all regions of Russia, everyone involuntarily wants to increase the tightness of the roof in his country house. And this is correct, because in a heavy downpour the water dripping from the ceiling does not contribute to a good mood at all, but to go out in the rain, having all chances to earn pneumonia, few will take a risk. Therefore, begins the insulation of the pitched roof with waterproofing , which will become a reliable insurance against the rainfall in your new premises. And now you have the first choice, because the waterproofing films are of two types - "breathing", that is, steam-conducting, and "not breathing", and therefore, respectively, do not allow evaporation.
Given the probability of condensation under the waterproofing, and to avoid the appearance of dampness and mold, we choose, of course, "breathable" films, which, in turn, are divided into two types: diffusion and super diffusion. The first is nothing more than a conventional reinforced film with numerous small holes, through which the vapor flows freely and moisture does not penetrate."Breathe" such films not in the best way, so between them and the heater there should be some gap, air layer, otherwise they will lose their inherent properties. Superdiffusion in this respect are more perfect, because they are membranes and perfectly pass steam, completely preventing moisture penetration, without any discounts on improper conditions for the task.
It will be useful to mention "non-breathable" waterproofing films that require additional ventilation, expressed in at least two gaps of 8 to 10 centimeters. These films have their own merits, in particular, anti-condensate, which due to a special coating of the inner surface does not allow drops to slide down on the heater. As a result, the condensate safely dries, not creating dampness. In general, "non-breathable" films are usually made of polyethylene or polypropylene, as well as "breathable" diffusion, and membranes are usually made of synthetic fibers and are a non-woven fabric. Any waterproofing film represents the first level of protection of our insulation and is attached directly to the crate and rafters, being targeted to the latter with the help of a construction stapler.
Insulation of a saddle roof - savings on thermal insulation
In fact, the roof should not only prevent the penetration of the cold winter attic, but also protect it from the summer heat, which, given the heating of the roof under the sun's rays, does not suit every thermal insulation material. It is best to insulate the wooden roof with basalt mineral wool, which, unlike fiberglass, is safer during installation and can withstand higher temperatures. It is even better to use, of course, silicate fiber or in general thermal insulation based on plant raw materials, but the mineral wool may be preferable because of its rigidity, which is important for a material disposed obliquely between rafters. An excellent substitute for mineral wool can be expanded polystyrene, otherwise called foam .Already by itself, the insulation of a saddle roof will be quite economical, since the wall on which the rafters lie means adequate protection from the cold. However, the insulation of the attic with polystyrene foam will increase the economy even more.
So, where to put a heater, it has already been said, however, too in general terms, so we will clarify. The rafters in the wooden house are the main supporting element for the roof, and the warmth of the saddle roof, as well as the gable roof, is best done with their direct participation. Filling the space between the rafters insulation, you, firstly, you can work in stages, and secondly, the rafters will serve as excellent elements for fixing the thermal insulation material. The thickness of the insulation must be equivalent to the height of the rafters, but ideally it is desirable that it reaches 200 millimeters. If the rafters are not high enough, after laying the vapor barrier on them, you can fill the horizontal rails across the rafters with some gaps and lay another layer of insulation between them, then put the vapor barrier again.
Thermal insulation of the gable roof - protection against evaporation from the room side
As already mentioned, in our heat insulation cake there is at least one layer of vapor barrier, which should prevent the penetration of moisture inside the room, often in the form of vapors. Moreover, we have an attic above other living rooms, and steam, according to the laws of convection, always tends to rise, therefore, the humidity on the second floor will be higher than at the first. Hence the risk of dampening the insulation from the inside, that is, from the side of housing. To avoid this, vapor-permeable materials, based on polypropylene and polyethylene, are used. The latter, as insufficiently strong, is reinforced with strips of the same material and is strengthened by lamination.
The main property of the vapor barrier is its density, the higher it is, the more reliable the material with regard to vapor tightness.
The density is also important for another reason: if it happens that the insulation will suddenly lose its stiffness and lose its shape, it will no longer be held between the rafters and all its weight will fall on the vapor barrier. The material must withstand this load without harming itself, otherwise the insulation of the gable roof( or saddle) will cease to be so. Of course, on top of the vapor-tight material, usually the finishing panels are laid, for example, plasterboard, which, when plastered, also quite well hinders the steam, but it does not hurt to add additional stiffness to the "roofing pie".
The thickness of the insulation rarely corresponds to the height of the rafters, but to strive for the ideal is never superfluous, the more thicker the insulation, the lower the attic ceiling.
