Slopes on the windows with your own hands

The owners of the apartments or houses that have installed new windows, quite rightly, have a desire to tidy up the surfaces around them. Very often it is just necessary to do this also because during the installation of new window systems the old slopes are heavily damaged and not subject to "restoration", or they come close to the sashes of the window sash, and this makes the difficult for its opening. In addition, slope finishing is also performed in order to strengthen the sound - and the thermal insulation of the window openings , closing the mounting foam, which fills the gaps between the wall and the window unit when it is installed. Very often for this between the finishing material and the wall, a layer of insulation is laid.

Slopes on the windows with your own hands can be made neat and functional in several ways and with the use of various finishing, warming or combined, combining both qualities of materials. To find out which version will seem easier to install and more

will suit for a particular case, you need to consider the most popular ones.

What materials are most often used for mounting slopes?

There are three most commonly used methods of giving the aesthetic slopes, each of them is good in its own way and can be used in combination with a heatingmaterial. So, on the window slopes can be installed PVC panels, glued or fixed on the crate gypsum board, or the surface is leveled with plaster and putty mixture.

Slopes from PVC panels

For the finishing of this technology, plastic lining and auxiliary fittings are used. They help to hide the edge of the panels at the joints of horizontal and vertical surfaces, as well as on the lines of their abutment to the window frame and on the external corners of the slopes.

In addition to the usual lining PVC, for the lining used specially manufactured for this purpose sandwich panels, which consist of layers plastic and expanded polystyrene foam. This material will facilitate installation, so as not it is necessary to separately adjust and install a thermal insulation material. In addition, this approach also often allows you to do without some hardware elements.

As usual, the sandwich panels are ideal for decorating slopes around plastic windows, especially if you want you can choose the right PVC color, which will fully harmonize with the shade of the framewindow.

Plastic slopes can be installed on their own without using the - wizards, you only need to study the installation instructions and scrupulously adhere to its during the operation.

Plastered slopes

This method of decoration can be called traditional. Qualitatively finished surfaces will last for a long time, without losing a neat appearance. However, it should be noted that without a layer of insulation material, the plaster is not capable of becoming an effective barrier to the cold coming from the window .The disadvantages of this method include laboriousness of and the duration of the arrangement, since the solution is superimposed in several layers of , each of which must dry well. In addition, the plastering works require certain experience in their implementation, and without it, it is possible to spoil the surface, in vain spend in the time and tools.

does not lose its demand. The process for finishing the slopes with plaster mixtures is "dirty", and the as takes a lot of time( sometimes it takes from one and a half to two weeks), in the room where works, it will be necessary to clean every day or not to use the premises at all.

Plasterboard slopes

Often the owners of apartments and houses prefer the design of window slopes with plasterboard. This material is easy to install, it can be used together with a heater, the casing is durable enough and perfectly aligns the surface. In fact, drywall is dry plaster, but only mounting its is much faster than the "wet" option. A similar method not the gives the a large contamination in the room during work and does not require much experience to carry them out. It is enough to follow the already tested instructions in order to accurately and correctly carry out the finish.

Today, several types of plasterboard are produced, and one of them( GKLV, greenish color) withstands the high humidity - and it should be preferred for embankment. Difficulties in the installation process can cause not the installation of the material itself, and the subsequent finish for decorative coating is a primer and putty .Without these works, "dry plaster" can quickly become unusable, as it has a fairly fragile structural structure and can only be used for a long time when closing the slices and finishing the surfaces.

Would you like to make window slopes from plasterboard?

The installation process is described in detail in the article of our portal " Slopes from plasterboard with own hands ", which is easy to follow the link. In the same place, in the publication, questions about varieties and operational qualities of this material are well covered.

tools and mounting materials of

slopes For the work on bringing slopes in order, depending on the chosen option, different materials will be required. The list of tools varies slightly - , they will be needed not only for installation work, but also for preparatory activities.

Tools for operation

Any of the selected materials require construction tools.

A. If plastering is to be done, it is necessary to prepare:

• Spatulas for application and leveling solutions.
• Plaster trowel or shovel - they are also used to apply plaster or putty mortar on the wall.
• Angle equalizer - it will help quickly and accurately give the correctness of the inner and outer corners, which always cause the greatest difficulty in excavating.
• Grate - is used for leveling and smoothing plastered or plastered surfaces.
• Falcon - it is convenient to use it to bring the solution to surfaces to be cleared during work.
• Plaster trowel - this professional tool nt pr is designed for application and leveling of mixtures.
• An electric drill with a mixer - is required for mixing solutions.
• Capacity of for mixing.
• A metal profile or a wooden rail is needed to create guides.

B. To mount the PVC panels, you should have:

• Acute construction knife.
• Angle, ruler and measuring tape for measuring and fitting panel blanks.
• Building syringe for working with sealant or gun for mounting foam.

B. Some tools are required for mounting any of the above materials:

• Wide brush for applying primer.
• The building level, which will help to control the removal of surfaces ideally in vertical and horizontal planes.
• Shears for metal for cutting reinforcing corners or profiles.

Separately it is necessary to say about tools designed for preliminary preparation of slope surfaces:

Toporik or special bit-drill bit on - puncher these tools are required in cases when slopes are made inaccurately or located in such a way that they do not allow opening the sashwindows completely, and they have to simply beat.

Building hair dryer - in that case, if you can only remove the old paint coating.

The - spatula will be required if you only need to clean the surface of the slopes from old plaster, paint or wallpaper.

Required materials

A. If plastic slopes are selected for installation, you will need to purchase the following materials from the materials:

• Plastic panels( or lining), the number of which is calculated according to the slope parameters. Panels will be needed for installation on the sides and ceiling of the window , and means , in order to find out the exact amount of material, you need to measure the height, width of slopes and wall thickness. Usually, panels are purchased from 10 ÷ 15% of the reserve.
• Starting plastic rack, having a U-shape.

• Rail with F-shaped shape( F-profile).

• Profiles for internal corner, mounted on the joints of panels.

• Thermally insulating material - expanded polystyrene or mineral wool of the required thickness and size. If already used insulated sandwich panels, then you can do without additional thermal insulation.
• Wooden or plywood rails 100-120 mm thick.
• Self-tapping screws of the required length.
• White silicone for sealing gaps between panels.
• Mounting foam - it is better to use "professional" in tubes, and not cheap in aerosol cans . .
• Staples for stapler.
• Primer composition.

For the installation of PVC sandwich panels, the same materials are required, except for the U-shaped and angled slats. F-shaped strip may be required to design an external corner, but you can do without it , using for its clearance putty mixture. Which option of finishing the corner to choose - completely depends on the preference of the owner of the housing.

B. For the finishing of slopes with plaster, the following materials are required:

• Filler-plaster mixture.

• Finishing putty .

• Primer antifungal formulation.

• Perforated paint profile for strengthening external corners.

• Finishing decorative material: water-based paint, wallpaper or even ceramic tiles - according to the preference of the owners.

Preparing slope surfaces

After all the necessary items have been purchased and prepared, you can proceed to the preparation of surfaces for the installation of finishing materials. This process can be carried out in different ways.

• If window is installed in such a way that around it on the slopes there is enough space for installing the trim with a heater, then often it is enough just to remove the old paint, whitewash or wallpaper from these surfaces.

Whitewashing or wallpaper from the walls around the window can be removed easily if you pre-soak them, soaking a few times with water.

A paint on an oil or organic base is usually removed with a spatula, heating the surface with a construction hair dryer.

Cleaned slopes should be primed with an antiseptic primer, to avoid the appearance of mold stains under the finish, which can not only damage the walls and finish, but also introduce an unpleasant smell and a very unhealthy atmosphere into the living areas. The fact that a fungus can be dangerous to the health of tenants, so this stage of work can not be neglected.

The primer is often applied in several layers , each time - after the previous drying. Not only smooth surfaces are treated, but also hard-to-reach corners - this requires using a narrow brush.

• Another, more complex preparation option is the complete dismantling of the plaster layer, applied to on the slopes.

This method is used in cases where between the window frame and the slope leaves a very small distance, which does not allow the window to be fully opened. Another situation when one can not do without this cardinal measure is the impossibility of installing thermal insulation of slopes or even ordinary plastic panels.

For rapid removal of the plaster layer, a perforator with a special nozzle is used, which is called a chisel blade. It well fits all the layers, put on the wall, and they are removed in large enough pieces.

Then, from the cleared slopes, it is necessary to sweep the dust and particles of the wall and plaster - this process ssp is handled with a soft brushes or a wide brush. Well, after that, the wall must necessarily be primed with the same antifungal composition.

Edging of slopes

To easily install on the slopes of a material, you need to step-by-step to consider each of the options.

For finishing works, after applied to the wall, the primer is well absorbed and completely dry.

Finishing slopes with plaster without insulation

The process of plastering the surfaces around the window is as follows:

Illustration	Brief description of the operation
	The first step, around the window niche, guides are installed from a metal profile or wooden strip. It should be noted that the metal guideway is preferable, since it has a lower adhesion than wood - it will be easier to remove. Guides are exposed on the construction level and fixed to the wall using dowels. The profile should extend beyond the corner of the window opening to the thickness of the future plaster layer.
	Another guide from the perforated corner is exposed near the window frame. It is oriented to the profile installed around the opening, as the sketched plaster will be aligned along the plane specified by these two guides. The corner is set on the putty on a gypsum base, as it dries quickly enough.
	The next step on the wall is the plaster mixture. Sometimes it is replaced with a conventional cement mortar, which is kneaded from cement and well sifted sand, that is, in no case should it be impregnated with small pebbles. The task of this stage is to make the outer corner smooth and create the necessary plaster layer.
	The same work is carried out on the ceiling part of the slope.
	After the solution has been sketched on a slope, it needs to be aligned using a rule, a half-rack or even a flat slat. This layer is leveled, so to speak, roughly, the main thing - that the solution filled all the voids and the edge of the slope, approximately forming an even angle. Alignment should be carried out after setting the solution. The process is carried out from the bottom, from the windowsill. The rule is set on the rails and gently rises upward, leveling the scuffed solution, the surplus of which is immediately removed. After completing this work, the slopes are left to dry completely.
	Further, from external slopes, the outer guides are removed, and perforated paint corners are installed on the formed corners with the help of gypsum putty, which securely secure the edges of the slopes. Having established them on all height and width of aperture, it is necessary to wait for full drying of gypsum structure - this process will occupy an order of half an hour.
	When the putty dries, and the corner is securely held on the wall and slope, another layer of plaster is applied to their surface, which should have the height of the installed paint corner. It is aligned the same way, starting from the window sill, with the help of a rule that is kept up to the ceiling plane. From the outside, the edge of the corner is compared with the wall solution, which is applied with a spatula. Internal corners are formed by an angled trowel, which grasps at once two planes and a junction between them. The aligned slopes are left to dry completely and then ground.
	The last layer consists of the finishing putty, and is applied in a thickness of not more than 1-1.5 mm.
	The work is carried out with a wide spatula, with a slight pressure on it, movements from the window frame towards the room. If there are marks on the surface from the edges of the tool, they must be carefully ironed.
	The final stage is the final smoothing of the surface with the help of grouting. The process is carried out in a circular motion counter-clockwise. After such a grinding, before painting, the slopes are again recommended to be primed. The primer will not allow the paint to be absorbed into the putty, so the coloring will be even.

For clarity - detailed video instruction for plastering of window slopes.

Video: how to plaster the windows slopes

Finishing the slopes with plaster with insulation

In this version of the finish, some stages are similar to the first one, but there are 's and its features, so it should be considered separately.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation
	The heater is mounted on a primed flat surface. Therefore, if chipped and potholes are found after chipping the old plaster, they will need to be leveled with putty or plaster mix with a wide spatula. After the repair layer and primer dry up, they switch to sticking the expanded polystyrene panels, which should have a thickness of no more than 15 mm.
	The material is fastened to the mounting foam, which should be applied directly to the heater, or to the mounting glue as "liquid nails".Banded with glue, the part is pressed tightly against the slopes. Installation of foam is first made on the side walls, and then on the ceiling part of the slopes. If necessary, joints between polystyrene foam are additionally filled with foam.
	If the slopes have a sufficiently wide width, then the insulation panels are additionally fixed to the wall with the help of "fungus" fasteners. For this purpose, holes are drilled in the wall, directly through the expanded polystyrene, into which the dowels-fungi are embedded. Then special spacer nails are installed and clogged in them. Using this fastener, you need to take into account the thickness of the insulation, as the fungus should be recessed into the wall by 50 ÷ 60 mm, and its hat is at a level with the surface of the foam or be slightly, 1-1.5 mm, recessed into it.
	Having pasted a foam that aligns the surfaces and corners, they move to reinforce its surface - only in this case the finish will serve for a long time. Corners with reinforcing fiberglass mesh are mounted on external corners on glue or putty on a gypsum-based substrate. The glue is applied by the spatula on the edge of the slope, then the corner is pressed onto it, and the extra glue composition that immediately emerges through the holes is immediately removed.
	On the outside, the corner is also glued to the glue or putty. You can use glue and cement-based, but if you want the surface to be dried quickly dried, it is recommended to take gypsum composition. The mesh is squeezed into the applied compound with a spatula, and its excess is leveled or removed.
	Next, the mesh is fixed to all foam surfaces. It can be glued to the already applied thin layer of putty or to attach to the buttons, and then apply the solution on top of the grid, leveling it. This layer will be preparatory to the final putty, which is applied to the dried surface. The finishing leveling layer and the rest of the work are carried out in the same way as in the first variant.

Video: how to smooth plastered slopes with filler

Installation of plastic slopes

PVC panels can be divided into two types - conventional and sandwich panels having in their multilayer structure a heater. Their installation is most often identical and is done with the use of fittings, however, sandwich panels can sometimes be joined with a sealant, but can be adhered to the walls of - with mounting foam or "liquid nails".

Illustration	Brief description of the operation
	Finishing the slopes with plastic panels begins with fixing around the perimeter inside the window opening, on the slopes, excluding the windowsill, wooden slats. This element will strengthen the angle and allow you to easily mount the hardware profiles on it. In the event that the window opening is wider than the frames to be installed, a wooden beam can also be fastened between the frame and the slope. It is usually installed during the gaping of gaps between the wall and the frame during the installation of the window system itself. In this case, the thickness of the rail fixed to the outer edge is selected depending on the section size of the first bar.
	Next, the location of the start profile is determined. If a wooden beam is installed between the frame and the wall, the profile is pressed against the frame, and fixed with a stapler and brackets to the wooden beam. This operation is represented in the photo.
	If the beam is not installed, the profile is attached directly to the frame, along a line defined by the building level, leaning on the external rail. The profile is fixed on the side and top edges of the frame. At the junction of the walls and the ceiling of the slope, an angled profile is installed, in which there are two gaps for the installation of plastic panels in them. The photo shows clearly the fixed starting and angular profiles.
	The next stage on the outer side of the slopes, with the approach to the surface of the wall, fixes the F-shaped profile, which will serve not only the panel holder, but also the clypeus. The profile is fixed to a wooden rail mounted along the outer edge of the slopes.
	At the corners, the F-profile is cut at an angle of 45 degrees and connected at right angles. To ensure that the cut is perfect and the profile is not spoiled, when cutting the workpieces, you must use a chair.
	Next, measurements are taken from the slopes, and parts of the correct size are cut from the plastic panels. After that they are installed in the grooves of the profile - for this they can be slightly bent.
	In some cases, after bending the shelves of the profiles, their edges "do not want" completely back to their original position, and gaps are formed. To bring them back to their original state, silicone sealant can be applied in these places, and then temporarily fix the unit with a paint tape that adheres to the surface of the plastic panel.
	Another option for installing conventional PVC panels on the slopes can be the method with the use of a heater, which is laid between the wall of the slope and the finishing material. Installation is carried out in the same way as described above, but in this case a certain space is left for the heater. 1 - fixing the starting U-shaped strip to the window frame or wooden beam; 2 - installation of a wooden rod on the outer edge of the slope; 3 - fixing the J-profile to the wooden rail - this profile will serve to fix the completion of the clypeus; 4 - installation of insulation material between the wall and PVC panel; 5 - installation of a conventional or sandwich panel in the starting profile; 6 - installation of the CL profile, which snaps into the protruding part of the J-profile. In addition, it can be glued to the wall and panel with a white silicone or sealant. It should be noted that if sandwich panels are used in this variant, then a mounting foam can be used instead of a thermal insulation material to fill the cavities between the finish and the wall.

Video: installation of plastic window slopes

Sandwich panels can be installed on the surface of slopes and in other ways without the use of hardware profiles, but with the use of mounting foam, sealant or liquid nails. The gaps between the planes, in this case, are sealed with white silicone.

Installation of sandwich panels directly on the walls of slopes is quite simple, but an important condition for it is a more or less even surface, so before installing the finishing material, its needs to be leveled and dried.

Further, works are carried out as follows:

• From the slopes, dimensions are taken and sandwich panels are cut out.

• Then one of the selected adhesive compounds is applied on them and the panel is pressed against the surface of the slope.

If installation foam is used for installation, the window ceiling panel is first glued.

The ceiling plane is sprayed with water from the spray gun - this will increase the adhesion of the surfaces.

The foam is then applied along the perimeter of the bonded part with a thin strip, since it has the property to expand quite considerably, and with a large its the amount of foam is able to squeeze the finishing material from the wall.

• Pressing the material against the surface, it should be held for 5 ÷ 7 minutes, and then set the supports and leave until the foam is completely dried and expanded. The support can be built from a planed board, which is pressed against the panel, which is supported by bars, setting them on the windowsill.
• After this, side panels of slopes are installed in the same way.

• Then, if there are empty gaps between the slope and the trim, adds .When the foam dries and expands, the of its surplus is cut with a sharp clerical knife.

• . Further, the joints between the wall and the finishing material should be closed with a special profile, which is called the casing. It is made in the form of a corner and can have a different width, which makes it possible to close the unsightliness of the joint even of a large width. The clypeon is adhered to the "liquid nails" and is picked up for the time of their drying with the help of paint tape.
• If between the panels for any reasons, small crevices are formed, they are neatly filled with white silicone, which after drying will be almost invisible.

It should be noted that there are other ways to accomplish the work on the decoration of slopes, which differ slightly from those described above, but the principle of their implementation is unchanged.

- First you need to decide in advance with the choice of material whether it will be insulated initially or this process will be done during the installation.

- The second is to choose the material for insulation and for fixing all the parts.

- The third is to decide which method of installation will be preferable: with the use of hardware profiles or without them.

Once you have defined all the criteria, you can make measurements and acquire everything you need to work.

Make slopes on the windows yourself is not so difficult if you approach this process with utmost care, perform accurate measurements, select all the necessary components correctly.

Is it possible to install a plastic window with double-glazed windows?

Installation of slopes is the final stage of installation of the window system. In order for the windows of the to be really insulated under all rules, it is necessary to take into account the many nuances still during mounting frames.

How to install the plastic window - in the relevant publication of our portal.