Doors entrance wooden insulated

Despite the appearance of a wide variety of structural materials, wood has not gone out of fashion for many centuries. The reasons for this popularity lie in its unique qualities of this material to create coziness in the house and to transform its appearance. Important advantages of wood can be called its ecological purity, low thermal conductivity and, with proper processing, an enviable longevity. Modern technologies and tools provide new opportunities in the processing of wood with bringing its surface to perfection and at the same time emphasizing natural beauty.

Entrance doors wooden insulated of various models and designs can be found in specialized stores or ordered in the profile companies engaged in the processing of wood and the manufacture of door kits. However, if you want and own the basic technological skills of carpentry, a wooden door with insulation can be done on your own.

And, it should be noted that if the wood itself is of high quality and the necessary pre-treatment, in the process of manufacturing the door, you can do without costly professional tools. Of course, in this case, the work will take more time and effort, but, after assembling yourself, you can save a decent amount.

It is known that in the cold season heat loss through the various elements of the building structure occurs from the heated from the inside of the house, and the doors are no exception. So, on how well the door and its box are manufactured and insulated, the total amount of thermal energy losses directly depends.

Types of entrance doors

Entrance wooden doors can be of different design, respectively, and they are manufactured according to different technologies. So, they can be massive, skeleton or paneled.

Wooden massive doors

Massive doors are made of a quality board with a thickness of at least 50 mm, which is joined together by a tongue-and-groove joint in one plane. Massive canvas can have a flat surface or decorated with carvings. The relief can simulate a paneled structure or have original drawings with various landscapes, animals, plants, fantasy or folk patterns, etc.

For an entrance massive door used mainly dense in structure of wood species, such as larch, cedar, oak and others, having a beautiful textured pattern and color shade.

The board must be dry and have high-quality processing. Such a door is basically, and does not require special insulation, since the wood chosen for it, usually has a low thermal conductivity. However, in this case it is very important to produce a quality thermal insulation of the door frame. If the door is planned to be installed in a private house in the region with severe winters, it is often lined with leatherette using a thin insulation, for example, isolone.

Massive doors are selected not only for installation at the entrance to the house or apartment, but also inside the living quarters, as well as in the bath.

Panel door

Wooden panel doors can be completely made of natural wood or laminated veneer lumber, but often composite materials are used, for example, MDF - for the manufacture of panels. This model is also suitable for installation at the entrance, but it is still most often used for doorways of apartments or in private houses located in regions with mild winter climate. Often, in order to use such a design as an input, the insulating material covered by a leatherette is placed on it from inside.

panel doors are very popular. The panel doors themselves are not a "warm" assembly, as the parts from which it is made can be made of different materials, have different thicknesses, density, heat-conducting qualities.

If the canvas is made of different types of wood, differing in color and texture, in order to achieve aesthetic and harmonious appearance, the details are pasted with natural veneer, which further reduces the thermal conductivity of the material.

The paneled construction is made of solid or laminated veneer, it includes upper, lower, one or more medium horizontal cross bars and a vertical middling( also one or several).Horizontal cross-members serve as "stiffeners" for the web, and the more these elements are installed, the less the risk of deformation of the structure.

The structural elements are connected with each other by a stud joint, and then fastened with nagels.

In the windows that form the frame, the panels, made of MDF or natural boards, processed at the edges by a milling cutter, are pasted. The thickness of the edges of the panel panels should be approximately ⅓ of the frame bar. The panels are installed in the grooves chosen for them in the beam frame or fixed with a figured bead.

It should be noted - in spite of the fact that the panel door consists of numerous elements glued together, with a high-quality performance, it is in no way inferior to the solid one in terms of reliability and strength.

The paneled doors made by real masters sometimes have a cost that exceeds the prices for massive structures, as much in determining this criterion depends on the breed of the material of manufacture and on the aesthetic design.

Skeleton and panel structure of

Doors Skeleton entrance doors can be called the most common option, as they are mostly affordable. There are, of course, also quite expensive models - this parameter will depend on the materials from which the frame of the structure is made, its filler and finish.

Frameworks of this type of doors are made from a massive board or laminated veneer lumber. For external cladding, use MDF, fiberboard or lining made of natural wood, 10 mm thick, of different widths, which are installed horizontally, vertically, diagonally or form various geometric patterns from it. As a thermal insulation filler is used a variety of materials. This criterion is guided by choosing the door in the place of its installation or according to the climatic conditions of the region. So, as a thermal insulation material, polystyrene, mineral wool, shavings, cardboard or paper honeycombs are used.

Sometimes the frame consists only of a strapping bar, and the space between two paneling panels is filled with low-grade sawn timber.

Frame or panel construction of doors are solid, hollow or shallow:

• Panel doors are called solid structures, that is, from unedged or poor-quality timber a shield is assembled, which is laminated on both sides with fiberboard or MDF.Wooden lining in this type of door, as a rule, do not apply, otherwise the door will turn out to be excessively massive. Such a construction can be used as an input only for flats of high-rise buildings, since the entrance areas themselves are a certain obstacle that blocks street cold. But even in such conditions of the entrance, the good owners of the door are lined with insulating material in combination with leatherette.

Hollow door, which consists of a harness and one or two cross-beams covered with fiberboard, MDF or lining. The space between the linen sheets remains empty. It follows that this door does not fit in any way to install it on the entrance of a house or apartment. Its purpose is to divide the interior.

• Fine-grained structures can have different filling, including thermal insulation material. But if such a door is planned for installation at the entrance, it makes sense to completely fill its cavity using heaters with low thermal conductivity - polystyrene foam, mineral wool, polyurethane foam, and in combination with them, foil-foamed polyethylene can also be used.

Having figured out what each type of door is, installed on the entrance opening, you can choose one of them for self-manufacturing. First of all, for carrying out this process, you will need to stock up on tools and materials.

Tools for work

For any carpentry work, you need to have special tools. Even if there is no opportunity to purchase expensive modern devices, it is quite possible to do classical manual dialing.

• For the convenience of work, a reliable and stable workbench is required, on which the manufacture, processing and assembly of the structural parts will be carried out.
• The work is extremely easy if the owner has a milling cutter in the power tool kit. It will help accurately and qualitatively to process wood, to give the necessary form and the sizes to details of a door, to choose grooves and nests, and even to decorate a cloth any relief figure. If this tool is not available, you can use milling drills, installing them in a screwdriver or a drill. Earlier, when such convenient devices were not at all, carpenters used for this purpose chisels and cutters of various configurations. So if there is no opportunity to purchase a router - stock up the chisel set.

• . The hand plane is also capable of replacing the milling machine in certain cases. They are aligned and adjusted to the size of the part, if necessary cut corners( chamfers), perform other technological operations.
• To ensure that the door elements are glued qualitatively and firmly, it is impossible to do without clamps, which will pull the parts assembled into the cloth.
• For the manufacture of blanks requires hacksaws.
• Need hammers - conventional and rubber( or wooden - kiyank).
• Final finishing will require an electric grinder and sandpaper to it. The grinding machine can be replaced with a small piece of bar, on which nazhdachka is nailed or nailed.
• A screwdriver is required to assemble the structure, install locks and hinges, drill holes for nails or screws. In extreme cases, you can do with a drill and a set of screwdrivers.
• Measuring and marking equipment is required - roulette, ruler, folding meter, necessarily - carpentry corner, simple pencil or marker.

Materials for the door

For the production of the door, you will need materials that need to be prepared in advance:

• Timber - the size, grade and quantity of sawn timber is selected for each type of product individually.
• Special carpentry glue.
• Self-tapping screws of various lengths and wooden nails. Usually they are used by professional masters to fix wooden parts among themselves. But some manufacturers prefer metal corners and lining.
• Insulation material.

It should be noted that for each type of door may require additional materials - they will be mentioned in the presentation of the order of manufacturing models.

How to choose wood?

To ensure that the door has been used for a long time and has not become dry or deformed, it is necessary to approach the choice of wood with all responsibility. The main material of the structure is selected according to the following criteria:

• The wood species is selected depending on the type of construction and financial capacity. If a massive door is to be manufactured without additional insulation, then it is worth choosing more expensive breeds of material that have a high density - it can be oak or cedar, larch or wood of some fruit trees.
• For the production of a massive or paneled door, business wood is purchased with a minimum number of knots. For binding the frame structure, wood of lower grade can be chosen, but if it is lined with wooden lining, then the lining material must have the highest quality.
• It is important to choose sawn timber having the optimum humidity - it should be 11 ÷ 15%.Only in this case the material will be easy to process, and the products from it will serve for a long time, without deforming, swelling or cracking. The best option is wood that has dried in a special chamber.

• When buying each of the boards( bars), check for flatness. This process is carried out visually, and even better - with the installation of the acquired parts on a flat surface. So all the shortcomings will immediately be noticeable.
• To make the finished door leaf 50 mm thick, you need to choose:

- for a massive door - a board 50 mm thick;

- for a frame door trimmed with a five-millimeter fiberboard, a beam or board of 40 mm, and a 10 mm thick lining with a thickness of 30 mm;

- for strapping and cross-pieces of paneled cloth, a board with a thickness of 50 mm is required, and for panels, depending on their design - from 15 ÷ 20 mm.

• In order for the structure to have good rigidity, the boards for tying or making the whole fabric are better to choose between 120 ÷ 150 mm in width.

All boards and bars must be grinded with a fine grinder, or manually, before starting the installation.

Which heat insulation material should I use?

As, basically, all homeowners prefer to insulate the entrance doors, it is necessary to consider what thermal insulation materials are most often used for this purpose.

Whatever the entrance door has been chosen, to enhance the insulation effect and prevent drafts from entering the room, it is absolutely necessary to seal the door frame. To do this, most often used mounting foam, special foam self-adhesive pads or tape PSUL( pre-compressed self-expanding sealing tape).Any of these options is suitable for all kinds of doors.

The most common insulation for thermal insulation of the entrance door leaf:

Material parameters	Izolon( foam polyethylene)	Styrofoam	Mineral wool
Compressive strength at 10% deformation, not less( KPA)	0,031 ÷ 0,33	40 ÷160	-
Density, kg / m³	25 ÷ 200	15 ÷ 50	11 ÷ 50
Thermal conductivity coefficient at 25 ± 5 ° C( W /( m × ° K)	0,031 ÷ 0,037	0,038 ÷ 0,041	0,036 ÷ 0,0410,043
Water absorption,% by volume, not less than	1,0 ÷ 1,5	1,8 ÷ 4,0	10 ÷ 15
Combustibility group	Г2 ÷ Г4	Г2 ÷ Г4	НГ ÷ Г1

	It will be easier to do the job if you draw up a detailed drawing of the product and put it on it. In the presented drawing it is possible to see the most simple variant of a panel door with the minimum quantity of connecting seams as the cloth has in its composition only two panels. Individual parts are numbered and are called: 1-horizontal top midseller in the harness; 2-upper panel; 3-vertical beams straps; 4-middle middling; 5-lower panel; 6- horizontal bottom midseller entering the harness. This drawing does not show dimensions, but it makes it clear what parameters you need to calculate when designing a similar product, by providing the data necessary for a particular doorway.
	For the manufacture of strapping and middens, you need to prepare a massive or glued beam, but if you select the second version of the material, it should be noted that due to the glue it will be more difficult to process. The finished, well-cut bar is machined on one side with a router. It cuts the groove to install the panels into it and connect the parts together. In some cases on the edges of the groove are made shaped slices - chamfers. They will replace the glazing bead that fixes the panel panels. In case of using glazing beads, the edges of the timber can be left even. In addition, if the inner side of the panel door is fixed insulation, the wooden parts can be "finished" only from the outside edge.
	Next, it is necessary to work on the connecting elements, as it will be necessary to fix the horizontal and vertical strapping elements and( for the model presented in the drawing) one middling. For this, in horizontal elements along the edges of the milling cut the spike of the desired size, and in the vertical - the corresponding grooves. The tongue and groove must have a thickness ⅓ of the size of the bar used. Connection can be different, and which one to choose for the convenience of manufacturing - to decide the master. The grooves cut in the horizontal beams should ideally fit the studs, and the parts - fit tightly with each other. In order for this work to be done accurately, it is necessary to make an accurate marking before starting it.
	The panels, as already mentioned above, are made of chipboard, board or MDF. If the boards are selected, the panel of them is assembled( glued, pulled together in clamps and dried) in advance. Plywood, thickness of 20 mm can be processed immediately, after the manufacture of joints of the grooves "groove-spike". If the inner side of the linen is to be insulated, the processing of the panels can only be carried out from the outside.
	Sometimes the paneling can be assembled in a thickness of two or three layers, which allows its middle part to be raised to the level of the bar trim thickness. In this variant, on the middle smooth panel of plywood, two or one side, or curly overlays, are glued on both sides. Such panels are glued under the press, as they must form one whole panel. The middle layer of the panel must be fitted to the groove, which is arranged in the bars of the harness and the middling. In order for the part to fit freely into the groove, its thickness is made 1-2 mm less than the width of the groove.
	After all the details of the door are made, they should be treated separately with antiseptic and fire retardant impregnation, if necessary - immediately cover with stain and dry.
	After drying the parts, you can start assembling them in a single piece. This work should be carried out on a flat, solid table( workbench). For fidelity, before "planting" the details on the joiner's glue, they are collected dry. If all the studs fit snugly into the grooves, and as a result of the assembly, a perfectly smooth door leaf design is obtained, then you can proceed to assembly on the adhesive. The smoothness of the door is checked by measuring it on the diagonals and comparing the lengths obtained - they should be the same.
	To work without difficulties, it is carried out in stages: - the horizontal step of the strap is pasted into the first step in one of the vertical bars; - further, in the resulting right angle, the panel is pasted and gently prattled with a rubber hammer until the studs fit tightly into the grooves of the horizontal and vertical bar; - after that, in the middle groove of the vertical beam and the underside of the panel, the mullion is installed on the glue, it is also pinched by a rubber hammer; - then, in the saddle and the vertical beam, the second panel is pasted; - further on, the second horizontal part of the strapping is mounted on the lower part of the panel and the lower groove in the vertical beam; - the final and most difficult stage of the assembly is the installation of the last vertical side of the harness, it is necessary to immediately install the spikes of the cross bars and the middling, as well as the uncovered sides of the panels.
	While the glue is not dry, the entire structure can still be adjusted. To do this, you first need to again check the dimensions of the diagonals of the design - if they have the same length, then this means that the corners of the blade are straight. In addition, the corners are checked with the help of a building corner. Making sure that the canvas is glued evenly, it is clamped into the clamps until the adhesive is completely dry.
	Only after the canvas has been dried, the strapping around the corners and on the connection with the midseller is fastened with nagels. For this, two diagonally placed through holes are drilled in these areas, the size of which will be larger than the diameter of the nagel by 1 ÷ 1.5 mm. Nails are lubricated with glue and gently slammed into the holes. After the glue has dried, the bonding site is peeled, if necessary, it is covered with putty.
	Having finished these actions, the panels are framed with glazing beads. They are also fixed on carpenter's glue, but you can also apply for the fidelity and barely noticeable carnations, for example, having bitten off their hats.
	Next, the door leaf is milled for the device of holes and nests, in which the hardware will be installed - locks, handle and hinges.
	On the markings in the door leaf holes are drilled into which accessories are tried on, but they will be installed after painting and warming the canvas.
	If the door is to be painted or varnished, this process is carried out in the sequence shown in the diagram. In order for the painting to look neat, you need to make sure that the paint does not collect in the corners. Even if the panel door is to be insulated from the inside, the paint is produced from both sides of the fabric, as this will create an additional layer of protection for the wood. Warming is carried out after the paint has completely dried.
	If the door is not yet installed in the opening, it will be easier to insulate and trim with finishing material, but it is not difficult to insulate the already insulated canvas. For insulation, foam rubber is required, if desired, with it can be used isolon, imitation leather, decorative nails. Foam is laid out on the door leaf, measure the right size and cut off the excess. Since the heater will later be nailed to the wooden surface, it can be temporarily fixed to a double-sided adhesive tape. After that, the holes in the heat insulator are cut out and cut out - for the eyelet and for setting the locks and handles.
	If more effective insulation is required, then foam is covered with foil from the foam side upwards. In the case of using two materials in a complex, their total layer should not have a thickness of more than 15 mm. In the isoleon, just as in the foam rubber, it will be necessary to cut openings, and then the material is fixed to the wooden surface with the help of brackets, but not along the very edge of the blade, but with an indent from it 20 ÷ 25 mm. At the top of the heater is laid dermatitis and also fixed in several places. If the door is sheathed "on weight", then all materials begin to be fastened from above, gradually sinking down.
	It should be clarified that the skin of the door opening outwards differs from the finish of the leaf that opens inwards. The photo shows the version of the door that opens inward. Warming it, in addition to the overall liner, use dermatine strips, a width of 180 ÷ 200 mm, which should extend beyond the web approximately half. These strips are then bent in half and a foam roller or foam rubber piece is put inside them. Next, the lower part of the bent strip, sticks under the insulated on the whole surface, and the upper part of it is laid on top of the dermatina, bends inward by 10 mm and is fixed with decorative nails. G is clogged at a distance of 100 ÷ 150 mm from each other.
	If the door opens outwards, the strip with the foam rubber roller is nailed to the door frame from inside the apartment. The fixed strip must extend beyond the box by 20 ÷ 25 mm, as it must closely cover the gap between the door leaf and the elements of the box.
	In this version, the dermatine is nailed to the surface of the door by retracting from its edge by 10-15 mm - this must be done so that the door fits snugly against the posts and cross bars of the door jamb.
	Locks and handles, as well as a viewing eye, are installed on top of the dermatine upholstery. The trimmed uneven edges of the material are threaded into the holes prepared to install the lock.
	How to properly install the fittings, and what size gaps should be provided between the door frame and the canvas, you can see in this diagram. Also here you can clearly see how the box itself is going. On the marked places, at the end of the door the necessary grooves are selected and door hinges are screwed. Then the door is installed in the door frame, on which the counter parts of the hinges are already marked and fastened.
Illustration	Brief description of the operation

• Mineral wool has high thermal insulation characteristics and is often used for interior insulation of frame doors. Its disadvantage can be called the fact that it eventually has the property to sag, revealing some sections of the space of the cloth between the skin. To prevent this phenomenon, it is desirable to glue mineral wool mats on waterproof glue, distributing it with stripes on the insulated surface. Mineral wool mats are produced, which are equipped with a foil layer - this version of the material is more expensive, but its thermal insulation characteristics are much higher. In addition, due to the layer of foil insulation becomes more rigid, so the risk of shrinkage is reduced.

• Foam rubber with a thickness of up to 10 mm is used for external insulation of the door from the inside of the room, followed by closing it with a dermatitis or leatherette cover, which is fixed with decorative nails.

How to insulate an already prepared door?

For this, you can make its decorative upholstery with the laying under it of a thin thermal insulation material. How to properly execute door skin with dermatitis - read the separate publication of our portal.

• Isolon or foamed polyethylene has high thermal insulation characteristics, and the foil version of this material has the property of reflecting heat inside the room, so it is very widely used for thermal insulation. Isolon somewhat resembles foam rubber, but is more effective, and can be applied in combination with other insulation materials. It is used to strengthen internal insulation and to fix the interior surface of the door under the decorative cover.

• Polystyrene foam also has good thermal insulation qualities. In addition, it is tightly installed between the frame elements and does not change its shape during the entire operation time. However, one should not forget that this material eventually begins to release formaldehydes, which are harmful to human health. In addition, polystyrene foam can not be called fireproof.

• Polyurethane foam is perfect for insulating the interior of the frame door, as it completely seals all joints of parts, penetrating any gap. Using this material, it is not necessary to use complex equipment - you can simply use the mounting foam, which has a convenient packaging. Surpluses of polyurethane foam, rising above the frame, are easily cut with a sharp knife.

Manufacture and insulation of panel door

This type of door consists of a considerable number of parts, each of them having a rather complicated shape. Therefore, in order to assemble elements into a single fabric, it was of high quality, all parts must be very carefully sized and qualitatively processed. If all these operations are carried out manually, then the manufacture of the door leaf will take a long time. In the event that there is no significant experience in the processing of wood, but the door is nevertheless decided to be made independently, complex designs should not be chosen - it will be better to choose a simple and affordable variant of the frame type.

Here it can be noted that a massive door, if necessary, is insulated in exactly the same way.

Manufacturing and insulation of the frame door

The panel door, as well as paneled or massive, is insulated from the outside - its interior space is completely filled with low quality wood - this may not be a trimmed beam or a board assembled in a board and trimmed from outside with fiberboard or thin plywood.

	Before calculating the material, it is necessary to determine how the lining will be placed, which will be lined with the door leaf, as this will determine how to install frame cross-members.
	If the whole lining is to be fixed vertically, then it is sufficient to install one or two cross-members. Horizontal sheathing requires the installation of two vertical bars inside the casing. If the skin will have a more complex pattern consisting of small elements, then for each of them it is necessary to provide support bars, to which each of the elements of the pattern will be fixed on both sides.
	Whatever the skin is conceived, the first thing to be assembled is a reliable frame. For him, the parts from the bar of the required length are prepared.
	At the corners the beam can have different connections. Sometimes the "groove-spike" method is used, but it is easier to use the "half-way" or "paw" methods shown in the diagram. In view of the fact that the entire structure will be lined with a lining, which will give it additional rigidity, such connections are quite suitable for fastening the bars of the strapping. To ensure that the length of the groove is the same and that it is flat, first mark the edges of the bar. The depth of the grooves should be half the thickness of the bar.
	Having prepared the strapping elements, it is necessary to make internal parts of the frame, according to a previously drawn up drawing. Crossbars or vertical bars can be connected to the strapping using the above-mentioned connections, or by using metal corners. All joints of the timber before gluing are glued with glue, exposed on the building corner. The construction is compressed by clamps and left to dry.
	When the glue is completely dry, two holes are drilled on the joints, into which the wooden nails are carefully clogged. The drilled holes must have a diameter of 10-12 mm, respectively, the diameter of the nagel can be 1-1.5 mm less so that it can freely enter the hole. Before it is scored, it is smeared with glue. The part of the nagel that protrudes from above is cut only after the adhesive has dried.
	If the trim bar is not wide enough, then in the lock setting area, make a tab of the bar.
	Next, the side of the frame, which will go into the hall, is covered with one of the selected materials. The most commonly chosen fiberboard or plywood, a thickness of 5 ÷ 8 mm, but some masters prefer to cover both sides with a lining of 10 mm thickness.
	The lining should be well processed and have a beautiful textured pattern, only in this case the door will look respectable. The lining must be covered with antiseptic and flame retardant, then allow the media to soak and dry out.
	Warming is carried out after all elements have been dried. To do this, one of the thermoinsulating materials is laid between the lath bars. If mineral wool is selected, it is best to fix it to the adhesive that is applied to the inside of the skin. It is also recommended to fasten the cotton wool on the top of the cotton wool - foamed foil material, 3 ÷ 5 mm thick. The foil should be turned towards the room. Isolon can be fixed on the frame elements with the help of staples and staples.
	When used for thermal insulation foam, it is cut into separate pieces, having the size and shape of the space between the beams of the frame - the material must fit snugly against it. Nevertheless, gaps between the foam and wooden elements still form gaps, and they must be filled with a mounting foam - it will additionally fix the heater in the frame.
	The best and most convenient option for the insulation of the frame door is foil mineral wool. It is laid with foil towards the room, to reflect the heat into the rooms. This material is well cut with a sharp knife, and the foil gives the material additional rigidity.
	The next step is the lining of the second side of the door leaf with the lining. To ensure that the trim looks neat and complete, it is recommended to fix the frame from the lining along the perimeter of the cloth, and elements inside the selected pattern are already installed inside it. The strips of the lining are joined together by means of a groove-groove connection and fixed to the frame by 20 mm nails or self-tapping screws that are driven or screwed into the groove of the installed panel. You can use special metal holders - kleimers - for fastening. They are installed on the lower "shelf" of the groove, and through them the lining is fixed to the frame. After the plating, this fastening becomes absolutely imperceptible.
	Next, the door is installed in the door frame, and the points of installation of the loops are marked. Then, by their size on the end of the door frame, and on the box, the wood is selected to the desired depth, since the hinge plates should be located on one level with the surfaces of the parts to which they are attached.
	After hanging the door on the hinge, a marking is made for the installation of the lock and handle. The lock is applied to the canvas where the depth of its installation is marked, and on the front part - the width and height of the slot being punched. After that, select the appropriate "socket" for locking with a chisel and a drill or a router. In the latter case, the canvas should be removed and put it in a horizontal position. A lock is inserted and fastened to the finished hole. Then, in the door frame, the slots for the lock bolts are cut out, the corresponding metal covers are fastened.
	Along the perimeter of the door frame, a foil or silicone insulation tape is glued to the porch. Due to this seal, the door in the closed state will fit snugly against the box, which will significantly reduce the risk of drafts.
Illustration	Brief description of the operation

The frame door consists of a bundle and several crossbars or diagonally installed struts, between which is laid insulation material - mineral wool, polystyrene foam, or the space is completely filled with mounting foam. The entire structure of the entrance frame door is externally lined with wooden lining. Some masters are installing a thin metal sheet under the lining to make the door more reliable.

If desired, the surface that goes into the premises, you can trim the fiberboard, and then additionally insulate the foam with a subsequent upholstery leather.

This version of the door can be called the most economical and easy to manufacture.

After familiarizing yourself with the nuances of warming, each house-master himself can choose the method of thermal insulation. So, if you intend to insulate the already finished door, you can use foam rubber or foamed polyethylene in combination with dermatome. Well, if you plan to produce this product on your own, the wireframe version will be the most affordable even for a beginner, who has not yet gained sufficient experience in carpentry. And let him to the aid will be a video lesson, placed below:

Video: manufacturing of a simple insulated frame-type door