Installation technique of suspended ceiling from plasterboard

Suspended ceiling from plasterboard can be made by hand in the hall, bedroom, hallway, in the kitchen, good, it's not so difficult to do.

Drywall for decades is the simplest, most versatile and affordable financial option for finishing or creating the ceiling itself.

Technologically, with its own hands, it is very simple, as it is a suspended structure.

However, as in any construction company, the suspended ceiling from plasterboard in the hallway or in the kitchen has its own nuances, which we will discuss in detail later in the text with photos and video examples.

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Why drywall?

Of plasterboard with their own hands make variants of arches, walls in the hall, ceilings in the bedroom, hallway, kitchen.

Why drywall is so practical:

• Less effort is spent on leveling any surface. In the case of plaster, you can apply no more than 1.5 cm of a layer that does not cover all the irregularities;
• Design of suspended ceilings from gypsum cardboard( as in the photo) allows you to make a frame in any form with any lighting in the bedroom, hallway, kitchen;
• Ceiling device - a frame, behind which you can hide communications( if it is illuminated in the kitchen).
• The design is equipped with any backlighting to your taste( example on video);
• Drywall hides any noise if there is insulation layer;
• At installation by own hands solution is not used - all work goes «dry»;
• In fact, the ceiling of gypsum board is mounted in the form of a composite structure. But such a universal type of coating still has its drawbacks.

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Drawbacks of drywall

The disadvantages are related to the technology of the device.

Judge for yourself:

• The height of the ceiling in the hallway should immediately decrease by 5 cm due to the thickness of the finished profile( plus the frame);
• For a master who monitors the installation for the first time, it's not easy. Of course not how to make smooth walls, fill the screed in the hallway or make wiring in the bedroom, but still not easy. In addition, you need to have a screwdriver and a puncher;
• Joints of sheets can give cracks - it is typical for any drywall;
• Do it yourself with your own hands is more difficult than with the help of a partner.

It turns out that the device gypsum cardboard( with or without light) as a ceiling in the bedroom, hallway, in the kitchen is both simple and difficult - a paradox.

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However, if you understand the essence of technology and the order of work, then in practice the ceiling will be necessary, especially if it is a single-level ceiling in the hallway, as in the example below( with video).

Tools for running

So, for a gypsum board ceiling device( it does not matter - with or without light), we will need such materials( we'll calculate them separately, but for now only a kit) and tools:

• guide profile 28 by 27 mm;
• ceiling profile 27 by 60 mm;
• hangers straight;
• crabs - fasteners for a single-level profile;
• scissors or hacksaw for metal;
• sealing tape on an adhesive basis;
• wedge-anchors;
• dowel nails;
• yarn for painting - for breaking lines on walls;
• level is two meters long;
• is a long rule;
• putty to close all joints;
• for joints - reinforcing tape( in other words - sickle);
• punch + drill;
• screwdriver;
• self-tapping screws for metal in steps of 25-35 mm;
• self-tapping screws with press washer;
• primer( best acrylic);
• insulation - sound and / or thermal insulation( mineral wool);
• on the situation - extensions under the profiles;
• spatula;
• tape measure, hammer and knife.

Most of the materials you will buy once in the same market, where they took profiles and sheets.

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Nuances of the

work Nuances need to be strictly observed, because all together they guarantee a smooth ceiling( one- and two-level).

First of all, you should know: do not take cheap samples of plasterboard. Take once a beautiful quality sheets, say from Knauf - one of the leaders of the segment.

In the case of a cheap sheet, a single-level and especially two-level ceiling in the bedroom( large surface area) can simply sag.

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During installation, a hydraulic level is used to mark a strictly horizontal line along the walls. Fill the level with water. Two of its cameras at the walls will show the same plane, put the marks.

The bubble level for the mark is not used. The ceiling in the kitchen is preferably made of a moisture resistant sheet that has hydrophobic impregnation. Moisture-proof - green, and simple - gray.

Only sheets of 8-9.5 mm, which are lighter than wall, are used for the ceiling. Sealing tape is used to ensure that the frame is firmly seated on the concrete and does not skip sound.

Tape is a porous layer on a self-adhesive basis. For the convenience of understanding the process, watch the video.

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Ceiling marking

First find the low angle: measure your own corners separately with a tape measure with a floor. In a low corner, make a mark 5 cm from the ceiling( if lighting is not set) or 8 cm, if lighting is to be.

Hydraulic level mark at the same distance as the first mark in each of the corners.

Now you need to do a beat: stretch the cord for the paint from the mark to the mark, after pulling and quickly lowered - hitting the wall, it will leave a mark on it - the line.

In this way, the ceiling is marked throughout the room. Set the guide profile: put it to the mark so that the bottom edge is located along the line.

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Make a mark on the wall through the holes in the profile. If they are not, then count 10 cm and make them yourself. Fix the sealing tape flush with the profile and place it on the wall plugs.

After you need to make a mark for the profile: with a sheet 120 cm wide, the profiles are 40 cm apart. It is necessary to make lines with a step of 40 cm on the ceiling.

Jumpers are only needed at the joint point of adjacent sheets - for every 2.5 meters.

The hanging of the hangers for the profiles is made smaller - say, 50 cm.

The starting row of hangers will be 2 times closer to the wall - only 25 cm. The next row is 75 cm( 25 + 50) and further with an indent of 50 cm.

Attachsuspension on the desired points and draw 2 marks for each for the anchor connection.

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Mounting the frame

It's time to mount the frame to the sheets - half of all the work on the construction of the ceiling. It is done this way( see video):

• We put all the suspensions on the anchors, the dowels can be pulled out with pliers. On the hangers, seal the sealing tape. Once the suspension is fixed, bend its edges so that they curl so tightly that when fastened they do not bend, otherwise all profiles will be fixed obliquely;
• We put the profiles: they often have to be cut with scissors, exactly 1 cm shorter than the room. And if the room is larger, then you will have to put the options of connecting fasteners to increase the length of the profile. When building up joints should not be on the same line, otherwise the construction will be unstable;
• All profiles are attached from corners: use the rule on two guides that make up the angle( the rule will be diagonally to them).So the profile will be kept flush with the guides. Now fix the profile with 4 self-tapping screws and washer directly to the suspensions. And the profiles themselves are attached to the guides, and self-tapping without a drill;
• The corners are ready, we put the center of the profiles on the suspension. Apply the rule from the initial profile, level with the level and at the end the excess length is bent upwards. So the second profile is fixed: keep it the rule, go to the wall opposite and put 2 profiles for the ceiling, go to the center and put the remaining sheets, starting from previously installed ones;
• Strengthen the jumpers at the points of future joints of the sheets: here you need those same crabs. Screw them into 4 screws, but if you move away from the ceiling a short distance, crabs can not go on top - they will have to be hung up;
• Cut the crosspieces from the profile and place on the 4 screws to the crab, bending the antennae. The jumpers are not attached to the profiles, as they are kept by the plasterboard itself;
• The issue of isolation is optional. Often used mineral wool in the form of large rectangles that cling to the suspension and fit into the frame itself. Vata simultaneously insulates and absorbs sound.

Remained the second half of all the installation work - put the plasterboard on the frame( hereinafter in the video).

Installation of drywall on the frame

Before proceeding to the fastening and disassemble the process according to the instructions and on the video, let the plasterboard lie down in the room for 48 hours to come to normal with humidity and temperature.

When stacking, observe the rule: the screws of self-tapping screws should be slightly embedded in the frame. First, remove the chamfer from the sheet and cut the edges with a knife at an angle so that the putty is firmly seated in the slit.

On the pasted edge of the chamfer is originally - they do not need to be removed. The first sheet is mounted in the corner with self-tapping screws with an indentation of 20 cm, with an indent from the edges of 1 cm. Adjacent sheets should be placed in a scrape on the self-tapping screws.

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All caps must be embedded in the frame. All sheets in the decoupling are attached with a shift to the cell. Such a "chess" calculation will ensure the integrity of the cover.

In this case, there is no need to adjust the sheets exactly exactly-just leave a gap of a couple of millimeters. The sheet is attached in the center and on all edges, including the guides in the wall.

Calculation of material

The ceiling device is known, it is now easy to calculate the volume of the material. Draw the ceiling drawings taking into account all of its dimensions and place the necessary fasteners in the figure.

Generally, it's enough to calculate the ceiling area( multiply the width by the length) and add it to one of the calculators-online, which will give out the number of all necessary elements.

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So it's easier and more reliable - there will always be a small stock.

Specific formulas for calculation are few, but they still are:

• - Calculation of crabs: the ceiling area is less than 8 square meters, then K = S * 2( the number is equal to the area multiplied by 2).If the area is larger, then K = S * 1.7 - the calculation is based on the calculation for the larger area. Take with a margin of 10%;
• - Number of suspensions: P = S * 0.7.
• - Number of self-tapping screws: calculation in two ways.1й - С = S * 23( the area of ​​the ceiling is 23), 2й - C = L * 100, where L is the number of sheets of plasterboard.
• - Calculation of dowels-nails: D = S * 2 * 0.7.For 1 suspension - 2 dowels. For the profile profile, the other formula is D = P * 2, where P is the perimeter of the room.
• - Calculation of a serpentine: L = P * K, where P is the perimeter of the sheet, K is the number of whole sheets.

Sealing:

finals Now close all the seams with the putty( see video).Dilute the putty according to the instructions, close the seams with the wall, after the joints and all the screws of the screws.

When the composition seizes, glue a serpyanka on each seam( glue overlapping at the intersection).On top of the sickle is also covered with the composition. All remaining projections will be closed by the finish layer.

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Installation of false ceiling from gypsum board is completed. So he is put in the hall, bedroom, hallway, in the kitchen.

Two-level ceiling in general is similar in installation, only the drawings are slightly more complicated and the calculation should be done under a larger frame. In addition, options with backlighting are taken into account.