One of the ways to save in the construction process is to reduce the cost of building a building base. This item of expenditure on average is about ⅓ of the total estimate. This is one of the main reasons why many private developers prefer a pile foundation.
Its advantages are devoted to a separate article, and all the arguments are undeniable. But still there are a number of shortcomings, and one of them is very significant. The fact is that between the overlapping of the lower floor( floor) and the ground there is a gap. Simply put, under the structure is literally "the wind is walking."This primarily affects the microclimate in the premises and necessitates not only more intensive heating of the building, but also artificially prolong the terms of the heating period. Accordingly, the operating costs increase.
This article deals with the insulation of the foundation from the piles of a house that is already in operation and was erected without a grillage.
This additional measure is the optimal solution to the problem of increased heating costs. One-off financial investments will pay off fairly quickly, especially since the process of thermal insulation does not differ in complexity, and the materials necessary for this are relatively cheap. Well, the fact that, given the specifics of this design, the insulation layer can be made only from the outside, along the perimeter of the building, it is not necessary to explain.
Where to start?
With the fact that the surface is prepared, on which the thermal insulation material will be fixed. Owners who thought about this issue in advance and built a grillage in the course of construction are not interested in this point and are not needed - they are all ready. The only thing they should do is check the condition of this "tape" and eliminate possible defects in the form of gaps between all of its elements and the lower crown( support frame).
And here is how to be homeowners, whose buildings stand on piles alone? On the Internet, you can find many options for equipment such a bearing surface. To recommend something as the only true one would be absolutely wrong, since not only each building, but also the plots of land are characterized by their own characteristics. It is quite logical to consider and analyze the feasibility of each of the ways of constructing such a "wall".
Brickwork
In principle, the task is not so complicated. Between the piles, a shallow trench breaks off, the bottom of which is compacted, and a formwork is installed. Given that the distance between piles, as a rule, is not more than 2.5 m, such a construction( 2 boards + jumpers) can be used many times, transferring it from place to place.
This frame is filled with CGS( about 10 cm), compacted, and then a concrete solution is poured. In fact, this is an ordinary shallow ribbon. The only difference is that the load on it is minimal, since the house is supported by piles, and it is designed only to perform the function of supporting the brick wall;and one-row will be quite enough. Consequently, there are no specific requirements for a sand cushion or a brand of concrete. As a filler for the mortar, even expanded clay can be used. The main thing is that an artificial stone can withstand such a small load.
But this is only one minus. There is a second one. Can anyone put a brick on their own? I guess, yes. And so that the wall turned out even, without blockages or distortions? Probably not. If there are no practical skills of the mason, plumbs, levels and expensive laser levels are unlikely to help. A curved surface to cover with insulation material is quite problematic. Even if it is a minvat, it will be necessary to conduct a number of rather complicated additional measures for its external decoration. Hence, it is necessary to invite( and pay for work) a specialist. As far as it is rational, it's up to you, dear reader.
Frame
From any point of view, this option is better. It is quite easy to build such a supporting structure, especially since lateral as well as upper "ribs" are already available( piles and support frame).The only thing you need is to decide on the frame material.
Metal
Guide rails welded to piles is simple, as well as vertical between them, along the entire length. But this is the case when the pillars of the foundation are made of metal. And if as asbestos-cement pipes( with concrete pouring) were used as piles? This is the first restriction in the application.
Now about how to mount a heater. You can directly on the frame, you can pre-close it, for example, chipboard. But in any case, you will have to do the drilling of the metal, since it will not be possible to glue the insulation to it( restriction №2).The process is quite long, especially if the slats are thick. The design will be durable, durable, but "iron" is not cheaply sold( the limitation is 3N-already on money).
Wood
The only drawback is rotting. But you can extend the service life.
First, all racks of high-quality impregnate( antiseptic, engine oil) and dry.
Secondly, dye all sides, including the ends, with a water repellent compound. The acrylic paint is quite expensive, but nobody forces it to spread it thickly. In principle, on the entire frame of one 5 liters capacity is quite enough.
But here comes another question - what to use as the bottom guide? Best of all - the bar, also pre-processed. It is enough to dig in half into the ground( between the piles), and additionally fix it with a pair of vertical pins( for example, bars of reinforcing bar).This will prevent the workpiece from moving in the horizontal plane.
And how to make the frame itself, it's easy to solve. You can fill up vertical racks to which to mount a heater. Another option is to install chipboard, MDF, sheets of plywood laminated( with their fixation on the top and bottom edges).Preliminary, these materials are also processed( impregnation + coloring).
The result is a perfectly flat base, which can easily be finished with any thermal insulation material.
How to choose a heater
Once it is a budget method, we will focus on the cost of production and the ability to perform all operations independently. Often there are recommendations on the appropriateness of polyurethane insulation. But here you need special equipment, therefore, without the services of "pros" can not do.
Optimum option - penokleks. From ordinary polystyrene, it is more "hard", and given that the insulation is made around the perimeter from the outside, it fits much better. Fastening of plates is made by landing on glue with additional fixation by special nails. Such consumables are cheap, but they are not needed much, since the height of the falsh-cap is negligible.
There are some doubts about the usefulness of the advice on using mineral wool. First, it( regardless of the variety of products) gradually absorbs moisture. Secondly, it will have to be coated with more expensive materials, since plastering of such "soft" surfaces is not done.
Much depends on how it is supposed to produce the front trimming of the resulting socle. But the main "guidelines" for the reader on the insulation of the pile foundation are already indicated. The final decision is for the owner of the house.
After the work on the insulation must be installed around the perimeter of the building. They will prevent rain drops from entering the newly mounted wall.
